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      09-12-2007, 07:03 PM   #1
just4kickz
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camera question

I'm pretty sure this has been asked already, but I'm just going to ask again--or if you could link me to another thread do that please. I'm already set on getting Rebel XT 8.0 MP camera and was wondering what lens I should get along with it. I'm looking for something a beginner can use and isn't going to make me eat ketchup and crackers for a few months.

Also, would you say the price on newegg for the rebelxt 8mp is fair? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16830120029

I was thinking of getting the lense at a store such as Fry's or Best Buy or some camera shop, so if you have any advice on where to purchase parts or whatever, please advise... i'm all ears.

A few of my friends have D40s, Rebels, and I think a DSLR by Sony--and they all recommended the rebel as a starter.
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      09-12-2007, 07:09 PM   #2
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if one lens can handle all the jobs that you need to be done, just get one lens only. because if you change lens often, the dirts will get into the sensor more easily, which is bad. retail store always selling camera stuff over price, do some research, and get it online.
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      09-12-2007, 07:14 PM   #3
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NaViT is selling an XTi with 18-55mm lens:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83532
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      09-12-2007, 07:22 PM   #4
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Don't skimp on lenses. Good glass is worth it's weight in gold. With that said, the kit lens is really on the cheapo side.
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      09-13-2007, 10:24 AM   #5
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J4K,

All of the dSLRs at your price point have pretty much the same features and specs, so it really comes down to the ergonomics and the user interface. I would suggest going down to your local camera store and actually spending some time with each of the entry-level SLRs, and seeing which one you like best. To me, the cheaper Canons have always felt a bit plasticky and well, cheap. The Nikons, on the other hand, have a great build quality and to me, it's worth the price premium. On the other hand, I like the slightly saturated pics out of the Canons straight out of the camera, whereas it takes a little bit of work to get there with the Nikons.

This is a great resource for camera research: www.dpreview.com

And this is perhaps the greatest camera shop in the world (both online and B&M): http://www.bhphotovideo.com/

As far as lenses are concerned, I would just go with the kit lens as a beginner. They're super cheap, relatively versatile, and capable of decent quality while you figure out the camera and figure out what you like to shoot. After that, you can figure out if you want a faster lens (e.g. larger max aperature for low light or high speed shots), larger zoom, wider, higher quality, macro, supertele, etc. Also, definitely pick up the normal lens (50mm f1.8) for whatever camera you get. They're cheap (~$100), tack sharp, and will probably be the fastest lens you own for a long time. Honestly, it's the biggest bargain in all of photography.

Finally, watch out for any deals that seem to be too good to be true (i.e. significantly lower than B&H) from stores operating out of NYC - it's probably a scam.

Good luck.
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      09-13-2007, 12:01 PM   #6
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Actually the kit lens is pretty good but I'd go with the the 17-75 Image Stabilaze if you can afford it. That being said it really all depends on what you are shooting. Is this just for casual, for scenery, close-ups? I live with the kit lens and a 17-200 lens and that's it. I'd like to switch to the 17-75 as that would cut down on the changes a LOT but for my use that's good. Really all depends on what you are shooting.

BTW: You can check out my site. Most of these shots were with my old Digital Rebel (6MP) although now I've graduated to D20.
www.PureEmotionPhoto.com
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      09-13-2007, 12:11 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bartman32 View Post
Actually the kit lens is pretty good but I'd go with the the 17-75 Image Stabilaze if you can afford it. That being said it really all depends on what you are shooting. Is this just for casual, for scenery, close-ups? I live with the kit lens and a 17-200 lens and that's it. I'd like to switch to the 17-75 as that would cut down on the changes a LOT but for my use that's good. Really all depends on what you are shooting.

BTW: You can check out my site. Most of these shots were with my old Digital Rebel (6MP) although now I've graduated to D20.
www.PureEmotionPhoto.com
Bartman32, great pictures!

Dang... I have a 5D and your pictures look much better than mine. I am not worthy of this camera LOL...
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      09-13-2007, 01:28 PM   #8
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Bartman32, great pictures!

Dang... I have a 5D and your pictures look much better than mine. I am not worthy of this camera LOL...
Honestly it's all about photoshop and color correction.
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      09-13-2007, 03:02 PM   #9
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I have a range of lenses for my D200, but find I use the 12-18 and the 80-400 the most. Probably 90%. Problem is, that's about $3000 in lenses. The 18-200 is a VERY useful range if you're on a budget. Ever check out Ken Rockwell's website? www.kenrockwell.com? He's not a porn star, I promise.
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      09-13-2007, 05:39 PM   #10
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The kit lens (18-55) is decent enough for when you first start. But if you want another one thats easy on the bank to play around with, look at the canon 50mm f1.4. Its roughly $70..$80 and has very low f stop and is very sharp.

If you dont believe me, read the reviews.
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      09-13-2007, 05:39 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bartman32 View Post
Honestly it's all about photoshop and color correction.
+1.
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      09-14-2007, 01:07 PM   #12
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If you understand what your camera is doing for you, you shouldn't have to spend much time in photoshop.
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      09-14-2007, 04:27 PM   #13
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Quote:
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If you understand what your camera is doing for you, you shouldn't have to spend much time in photoshop.
Someone get this man a prize.
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      09-14-2007, 06:32 PM   #14
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Quote:
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Someone get this man a prize.
I'll take a Nikon D3!

It's all about the GLASS! Look for something with large aperatures (small f-stop numbers, like 1.2, 1.4, 2.8). They give you, by far, the most creative control.
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      09-14-2007, 06:43 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboFan View Post
If you understand what your camera is doing for you, you shouldn't have to spend much time in photoshop.
True, but at the end of the day, the one who did use photoshop will render a image greater then that in which your camera can take.
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      09-14-2007, 07:10 PM   #16
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True, but at the end of the day, the one who did use photoshop will render a image greater then that in which your camera can take.
I couldn't disagree more.

I almost always tweak the contrast or color correction, but I don't agree that it's better than what the camera can take. These cameras capabilities (and therefor complexities) far outstrip the capabilities of all but the most experienced photographers. The digital darkroom is good for creating images that don't naturally exist, or fixing mistakes. I've taken many an image that after post-processing, I go back to the original, crop it, and send it out for printing. That's rare, but it does happen. I've made far more images that I go in and correct becuase I didn't have the camera setup correctly.

At the end of the day, it's all about what you like. An image is an image is an image. I'm old-school (at 32, go figure), in that I prefer to minimize the post-processing and make my image in the field. Things like filters, whacky lens applications, gimicks like extension tubes, etc, that's what I like to play with.

The reason I push this ahead of photoshop or other digital dark rooms is that in Pshop, you can only work with what's there. You really can't create content. Sure, you can merge, weave, etc, but you can't create an image that doesn't already exist in some format.

For instance, when you understand filters (on the camera), you can capture images that then allow you to do some amazing things in the digital lab. You can capture the sun rise up through a canyon, and have the whole thing properly exposed if you know how to use a gradient filter. Something I'm trying to learn now. Without that filter, either the sky will be over exposed, or the canyon under exposed. Sure, you could take two images and weave them together, but IMHO it doesn't look as good as a proper exposure on the camera.

With tubes, you can do some CRAZY macro work, and then process that in Pshop. But you still need the tube to get the image to go process.

I'm certainly not downplaying the value of post-processing, I'm just saying you're handicaping yourself if you do that and don't learn how to properly use your equipment first. It's like any photography class - manual focus, manual exposure. No automatic anything. That forces you to learn the CAMERA. When you master that, your post-processing will be minimized, but potentially yield even better images than it did when the photographer was just shooting snapshots and photochopping all day long.

In the end, it's all art, so it can't be wrong.
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      09-14-2007, 08:48 PM   #17
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Turbo Fan - I mostly agree with what you are saying. There is nothing like a good image. For me Learning the camera is an ongoing experiment since I have never taken a true "photography" class and everything I learn is self-taught. However I have taken a few photoshop classes. What I have figured out between the two is to use the camera. Frame your picture with the camera and take the best pic. But the real difference between the guy who "can't get good shots with his camera" and some of mine is simply adjusting colors so they look right. The majority of the photoshoping I do is not to make an image into something it's not, and not to crop an image at all. It's to simply adjust perhaps some contrast, a bit of curves and pop the colors with some saturation. Nothing more. At least with my "photos". Sure if I knew my camera better perhaps I wouldn't need as much saturation but as I said this is still a learning process for me. But I feel I can get some great pictures with some simple tools a lot of which an "old-school" guy would get out of a traditional dark-room.

That being said I have also played with some photos and those are more art than anything else. They don't look like photos and I don't intend them to be. But that's something totally different.

So when I said it's all about Photoshop, I didn't mean spending hours cutting pasting and creating an image. I meant a little color correction to restore what was there.
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      09-14-2007, 08:58 PM   #18
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For beginner Rebel XT 8.0 MP is a good choice, get the one with 18-55 lens, excellent for beginner. Later you will understand thats a lot of things you will need!
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      09-14-2007, 09:07 PM   #19
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I picked up not too long ago a canon 75-400mm. This lens was pretty pricey $650.00 but it's badass... takes great pictures... the standard lens that comes with that camera, the 18-55 is a good lens. It lasted me the last few years, than came kid number 2 and I had to upgrade the lens...
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      09-14-2007, 11:30 PM   #20
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Quote:
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.... I meant a little color correction to restore what was there.
Please don't take me as a pompous ass that's eschews any post processing. Almost everything I print needs some contrast bumps and color correction. Even WalMart does that to film that you take to them for processing and printing. I apologize if I offended anyone.

I too am self-taught. I've shot thousands of crappy pictures over the years trying to learn how to take a good one. I shoot lots of crappy stuff not fit to store on my hard disk, but it's still a great hobby. Enjoy the shooting, and the learning. I know I do.
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      09-15-2007, 01:21 AM   #21
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So I just ordered the rebel xti 8mp...

my friend told me to get a easy non zooming lense first to learn more about the camera...

http://www.amazon.com/Canon-50mm-1-8...9652363&sr=8-1
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      09-15-2007, 05:39 AM   #22
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Quote:
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my friend told me to get a easy non zooming lense first to learn more about the camera...

http://www.amazon.com/Canon-50mm-1-8...9652363&sr=8-1
That's very disciplined of you. Only having a prime lens (fixed focal length) is going to force you to do the old manual zoom (i.e. walk toward something to zoom in and walk away from something to zoom out), but this is a good thing. Framing is everything, so really force yourself to get in closer than your average snapshooter would and really fill up that frame, and try other perspectives than standing, eye-level.

Good luck.
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