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      02-11-2018, 05:22 AM   #1
Jacooobs`n
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Misfire in cylinder #4 remains

Hi all fellow M3 owners.
I have a 2007 with 64000miles/107000km.
Started getting a CEL some time ago and reading the code says misfire in cylinder #4 and #6. Tried to swap coils and failure went to #1 and #6 once. Next say back to misfire in #4, and now only #4.
Car goes in limp mode when idle but stop/start a warm engine I managed to get above 2500-3000rpm and car is running perfectly fine up towards the limited (I stop at around 6000rpm as I know there is something wrong).

I replaced all 8 plugs and bought brand new OEM coils from BMW and put that into #4. Car goes OK for a day, the back to limp mode next morning. Code is still misfore in #4.
Yesterday I took all injectors in left bank (passenger #1-#4) out and swapped #4 with #1 and well as cleaned the seat as it was full of debris. Cleared the code, car stands idling for 20 minutes with no problem and I took a 20-minute drive to a friends house, stopped it for 45 minutes and when starting again it goes back in limp mode with misfire in #4 as usual.
When having the plenum off, I got my wife to turn the ignition on and press the right pedal, all trottlevalves are cooperating as far as I can see and while doing this manually I see no slack from the TA`s or any deviations between #4 and the others.
I am out of ideas and might send it off to someone that can inspect the electronics..
Any other suggestions for another try back home is highly appreciated. Budget had a rough 2017 with new crank, rod-bearings, clutch and flywheel
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      02-11-2018, 12:59 PM   #2
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If you had all that troubleshooting then the next probable cause would be a bent valve. it is not a common problem but I have seen few e90X M3 with this problem.
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      02-11-2018, 01:22 PM   #3
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Agree with the above, and or a weak/broken valve spring. You need to do a compression test on that cylinder, followed by a leak down test.
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      02-12-2018, 07:23 AM   #4
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Ok, thanks for replies and suggestions..
What is wierd is that, like this morning with a lot of snow during the night, I started the car and let it idle for 10ish minutes and I can hear some misfiring and suddently goes in limp mode while I was removing some snow outside of the car. The exhaust sounds much better in limp mode but car is shaking a little.
I got into the car, stopped it and started it again to reset the limp mode. I kept it on 1500rpm and suddently it"relaxed" with smooth running and smooth idle again. Same thing happens when driving that I need to push it above a certain limit to run smooth but this time it was like a switch.
I have a weak tought that it got something to do with the airpump for the cold start but this I can code to not start at all?
When I drove away this morning it was all fine, no misfiring after the restart in the morning..
If it was a valve or valve-spring, this issue should be there 100% of the time right?
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      02-12-2018, 08:33 AM   #5
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If the issue is mechanical it should remain all the time, rather than coming and going. A bent valve isn't going to restraighten and rebend, and weak springs will remain weak and valves will continue to close more slowly than normal until the spring is replaced.
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      02-12-2018, 09:40 AM   #6
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This is starting to sound like a sticking vanos solenoid to me
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      02-12-2018, 11:16 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ham_sammich View Post
This is starting to sound like a sticking vanos solenoid to me
Excellent thought! I would look at this.
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      02-12-2018, 03:58 PM   #8
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what exactly is the CEL and are there any others that you have or had since you erased them? have you done a compression test of cylinder four? Is this all from the same tank of fuel? maybe you got some bad fuel? Do you have a multimeter. You can voltage check and resistance check the injector harness and the injector itself. If you can swap coils and plugs then injector is just as easy, swap cylinder 4 injector to cylinder 2 and see what happens? Anything else wrong, burning oil? leaks?
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      02-13-2018, 03:50 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RokkM3 View Post
what exactly is the CEL and are there any others that you have or had since you erased them? have you done a compression test of cylinder four? Is this all from the same tank of fuel? maybe you got some bad fuel? Do you have a multimeter. You can voltage check and resistance check the injector harness and the injector itself. If you can swap coils and plugs then injector is just as easy, swap cylinder 4 injector to cylinder 2 and see what happens? Anything else wrong, burning oil? leaks?
CEL is only misfire in cylinder #4. I havent checked the compression or leak test as the tools I have didn`t fit all the way down the "coil-hole". I had one vanos solenoid replaced a year ago due to cold start rattle (which I still have in warmer weather, not during the winther). If it`s inlet or oulet vanos causing this problem, isn`t it strange it doesn`t affect the whole bank, only #4?
I had several tanks with 95 since this problem occurred so bad fuel isn`t the thing I am pretty sure.
I swapped injector #4 with #1 last weekend but problem remains in #4.
I will do an oil flush asap using OMEGA 907, one bottle and idle for 1 hour as some other BMW tech advised me to do. One bottle goes to 3 litre, the engine have about 12-13 liters but service changes only 8,8 litres so to avoid having too much flush left in the hoses and cooler he suggested to use one bottle and extend the time for idling.
I have no leaks, no heavy oil consumption out of normal.
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      02-13-2018, 10:40 AM   #10
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it must be a Troll then.. little guys get everywhere and cause havoc.. JK

Well. I'm afraid we don't seem to have enough information at this point for a conclusive answer.. To me it sounds like ignition related electrical but you would have to test power and resistance at the harness for the coil and the injector to be sure if one is not working as it should, since you already replaced the injector, coil and plug. Since you dont have a compression or leak down tester that fits and cannot test the mechanical as a result. I would hope you have a multimeter and can check those things at the harnesses. At least it would give you the direction to chase, if your coil harness is not getting signal for example to fire you know to check the wiring or the control module or any system that would tell the control module not to fire on cylinder four. I had a similar issue in a VW vr6 and it was the ignition control module, but similar does not mean identical problem.

Have you tired a fuel system cleaner? Something like a product we have here called "Sea Foam" works very well. Great to add to your oil system flush just before you do that about two tanks of fuel a few weeks before to clean out the whole fuel system very well.
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      02-15-2018, 10:35 AM   #11
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I tried a injector cleaner from STP on 1/4 tank for higher consentration with no difference.
I will remove all 4 vanos solenoids for inspection this weekend and switch bank 1 with bank 2 and see what happend.
I will also do an engine flush adding OMEGA 907 in the oil and flush it before adding fresh castrol 10w60 edge oil.
Thanks so far
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      02-17-2018, 01:45 PM   #12
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have you done a compression and leak down test?
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      02-18-2018, 06:18 AM   #13
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not, yet but will have it done shortly. I`ll keep you updated.
Same thing happened to another car here in Norway with fresh built lower part with new crank and rod bearings. Could we have missed out on something related to both engines being out, bottom part separated and assembled again with new crank, new bearings, new clutch, new flywheel++?
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      02-18-2018, 08:16 AM   #14
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I had a broken valve spring that caused intermittant issues. Hard to believe. The leak down test finally proved the issue
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      02-18-2018, 09:04 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruuuce View Post
I had a broken valve spring that caused intermittant issues. Hard to believe. The leak down test finally proved the issue
I am willing to bet that this is his problem as well.

You need to do compression/leak test.
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