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      04-07-2013, 05:39 PM   #1
BURAKUSTA
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Track Newbie needs help.

Hello everyone

I need some basic questions please take some time to answer

1-Can i use race pads when on track and oem pads on the street with the same oem rotor ?

2-Do you recommend using both front and rear race pads or fronts are ok ?

3-Is brake fluid and brake line are necessary ?

4-How is michelin pss on the track ?

5-Does stock e92 m3 overheat quickly ?

6-What should be the tire temperatures with 19' wheels ?

Thank you
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      04-07-2013, 06:49 PM   #2
aus
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If you're a newb, just stay stock. It's more car than any newb will need.

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Let me get this straight... You are swapping out parts designed by some of the top engineers in the world because some guys sponsored by a company told you it's "better??" But when you ask the same guy about tracking, "oh no, I have a kid now" or "I just detailed my car." or "i just got new tires."
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      04-07-2013, 06:57 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BURAKUSTA View Post
Hello everyone

I need some basic questions please take some time to answer

1-Can i use race pads when on track and oem pads on the street with the same oem rotor ? Yes, but make sure to bed in each time you swap pads.

2-Do you recommend using both front and rear race pads or fronts are ok ? I would do both to keep bias consistent, but you'd probably be ok with just the fronts since the fronts do about 75% of the braking.

3-Is brake fluid and brake line are necessary ? Brake fluid yes, brake line not necessary.

4-How is michelin pss on the track ? They are good, but you'll cord the outer edges after about 5 track days without proper camber, which you cannot get with stock camber adjustment.

5-Does stock e92 m3 overheat quickly ? I have driven stock M3 in July in Texas without overheating. Others have went into limp mode in cooler conditions. If you see its heating up, go to a higher gear and work on maintaining momentum.

6-What should be the tire temperatures with 19' wheels ? dunno, but hot tire pressure should be below 35#

Thank you
what Aus said, but see answers in bold if you still want to make some changes
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      04-08-2013, 06:24 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThunderMoose View Post
what Aus said, but see answers in bold if you still want to make some changes
+1
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      04-08-2013, 09:30 AM   #5
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Good answers above except tire pressure. 35psi hot is on the very low side for a street tire. For a newbie, I'd target about 42psi hot to preserve your sidewall. You'll get more grip below 40, but you'll pay for it.

Just keep in mind...as you push more, the temp with climb more...along with the heat of the day. Check them after every session and you'll likely be bleeding all day.
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      04-08-2013, 10:55 AM   #6
BURAKUSTA
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Thank you for all replies

Today i bought pagid yellow rs-19 only fronts and castrol srf brake oil,i also bought stoptech stainless steel brake lines.

My tires are michelin supersports.So i think for now everything is enough for a newbie ?
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      04-08-2013, 11:49 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Car54
Good answers above except tire pressure. 35psi hot is on the very low side for a street tire. For a newbie, I'd target about 42psi hot to preserve your sidewall. You'll get more grip below 40, but you'll pay for it.

Just keep in mind...as you push more, the temp with climb more...along with the heat of the day. Check them after every session and you'll likely be bleeding all day.
Thanks. You're right. I was thinking of my R comps when I typed up my reply. Either way you want to watch that hot tire pressure.
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      04-08-2013, 01:55 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BURAKUSTA View Post
Thank you for all replies

Today i bought pagid yellow rs-19 only fronts and castrol srf brake oil,i also bought stoptech stainless steel brake lines.

My tires are michelin supersports.So i think for now everything is enough for a newbie ?
If you're planning to install the rear brake lines carve out a couple hours just for the rears. They are a real pain in the arse. Be sure to put the SRF in after you're all done and tested...don't bleed with it as it's really expensive and the rears are really a pain in the ass. Watch you don't run low in your master while you change the rears.

Did I mention the rear is not easy?
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      04-08-2013, 03:18 PM   #9
BURAKUSTA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Car54 View Post
If you're planning to install the rear brake lines carve out a couple hours just for the rears. They are a real pain in the arse. Be sure to put the SRF in after you're all done and tested...don't bleed with it as it's really expensive and the rears are really a pain in the ass. Watch you don't run low in your master while you change the rears.

Did I mention the rear is not easy?
My mechanic is really skilled,he did many installs.
So what you are saying is drive with regular oil and before track day put srf ?
Any other easy tips ?
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      04-08-2013, 07:11 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BURAKUSTA View Post
My mechanic is really skilled,he did many installs.
So what you are saying is drive with regular oil and before track day put srf ?
Any other easy tips ?
I'm saying when the (it's not oil) fluid is coming out from the hour it takes you to put the rear lines on, don't keep topping off with SRF. Keep it topped off with the $14 ATE, then when you're done, flush it all out with SRF. Actually...I'd just get two liters of ATE Typ200 for your first couple events and shelf the SRF until next complete flush.

I still run the ATE Typ200 with no problems. I melt pads before I boil fluid!
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      04-12-2013, 02:57 PM   #11
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If you are running the Gran Prix course in Turkey I'm very, very, very jealous. Beautiful course.
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'11 E90 M3, Mebourne/Black/Fox Red/Black, 6MT, PP2, heated seats, moonroof, split folding rear seats, iPod/USB adapter, Technic harness, JL XD 6/600.
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