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      03-27-2013, 04:49 PM   #23
mlhj83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MY13E92M3 View Post
Thanks.

Perhaps I mispoke.

When I start the car, I am in N. When I knock it over into drive I defualt to manual "1". If I want to get "D1" I have to knock twice. I would like to program the car to knock only once to get to "D1".

Is this possible?
Sequential mode is the default for US M3s, but you could contact one of the forum coders to program it to default to D mode.
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      03-27-2013, 04:50 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlhj83 View Post
Sequential mode is the default for US M3s, but you could contact one of the forum coders to program it to default to D mode.
Thanks mlhj!
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      03-27-2013, 04:56 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlhj83
Quote:
Originally Posted by fuddman View Post
According to the manual, to improve gas mileage, particularly in traffic, you should be in D1. In that mode, the car, when at a standstill, will be in second gear. You will, of course, start off in second gear and you will get to the seventh gear very quickly. When you stop, you will always be in second. Selecting D1 will display one vertical bar on your dashboard.
I'm very satisfied with gas mileage in D1 .
Quote:
Originally Posted by MY13E92M3 View Post
You just reminded me of something...

How do I get the default drive mode to D1 vs. 1?

I have to knock it over twice to get to D1.
Like Fuddman said below, D1 means first gear in D mode. The vertical bars at the bottom indicate the Drivelogic setting - 1 to 6 bars, 6th bar only accessible in S mode with DSC off. Drivelogic setting adjusts the gear shift characteristics.

In D-mode, the higher the Drivelogic setting:
- the less eager the gear box is to select the highest gear (holds on to lower gears for longer)
- the higher the max rev threshold before upshifting at full throttle kickdown

In S-mode, the higher the Drivelogic setting:
- the more aggressive the shift to make use of fly wheel inertia for maximum acceleration if traction is sufficient
- the faster the shift

Starting in 2nd gear might not be a good idea, as there is less torque at the wheels to get going from a standstill compared to starting in first gear, thus more fuel is burnt to get the car going from a standstill. Starting in 2nd is primarily for slippery surfaces like snow, ice etc. The key to good fuel economy is smooth and light throttle inputs and getting to the highest possible gear as soon as possible, and lift-off throttle and minimise brake input by planning as far ahead of the road as possible e.g. not needing to brake or come to a stop when you can see that the traffic lights ahead are red by coasting, plot your course in lane changes without having to brake while maintaining a steady light throttle. Cruise control on motorway journeys are not the most economical either, as the computer cannot plan ahead and will accelerate and brake to maintain the set speed, especially if the motorway has lots of uphills and downhills.

Make no mistake, I didn't buy this car to save fuel - I do regularly burn up about 2 tanks on a track day, but it's nice to save when you don't need to enjoy the performance.
^this

Very well explained sir.
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      03-27-2013, 04:59 PM   #26
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I don't even think about being fuel efficient, impossible with this car. It is what it is. You gotta pay to play.
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      03-27-2013, 05:06 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Denk View Post
It is what it is. You gotta pay to play.

Love it! Can't argue with that.
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      03-27-2013, 05:11 PM   #28
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Just the fact that you get to live in Hawaii AND drive an M3 is a win, win to me!
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      03-27-2013, 07:48 PM   #29
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went to NYC and back averaged 22mpg actual (gas cubby app). non-rush hour traveling between 70-90mph indicated. (car was showing 24.5mpg - its math never add up)
35psi front 36 psi rear before the trip. all highway driving was mainly on 7th gear
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      03-27-2013, 07:57 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gatorfast View Post
BS to all those claiming over 20mpg. The sticker on the car only claims 20mpg highway (which is probably even optimistic). So you are all doing better than the factory rating? Yea right. I assume people are reporting this because they are cruising on the highway, then resetting their mpg indicator, and being blown away when it says 20+. But in reality if you actually do the match each fillup its prob nowhere near 20mpg.
Most cars go beyond factory rating... why? Because if the company were to state one car gets 20 mpg as city but in reality never reaches it? then that's false advertisement and could definitely be taken to court.
BMW also is known to underrate their engine outputs. People are actually making more than 414hp at the crank.

I can definitely hit above 20mpg on highway easy.
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      03-27-2013, 08:43 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MY13E92M3 View Post
Thanks.

Perhaps I mispoke.

When I start the car, I am in N. When I knock it over into drive I defualt to manual "1". If I want to get "D1" I have to knock twice. I would like to program the car to knock only once to get to "D1".

Is this possible?
I'm reasonably certain you can achieve that by programming the key fob. I refer you to page 22 of the M3 Supplemental manual.
The following, from that manual, is what you are experiencing and trying to override:

"Every time you start the engine, sequential mode is activated in program S3 if you lightly press the selector lever to the right to position D/S with the brake pedal depressed."

I believe programming the key fob to D1 status will get you the override so that moving the lever right immediately after start will put you in D1.

That damn DCT is so finnicky about everything
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      03-27-2013, 08:43 PM   #32
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I've read somewhere that v8 engines work the most "efficiently" at 60mph? I've stayed at 60-65mph before and the instant MPG shows 33 MPG
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      03-27-2013, 10:09 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gatorfast View Post
BS to all those claiming over 20mpg. The sticker on the car only claims 20mpg highway (which is probably even optimistic). So you are all doing better than the factory rating? Yea right. I assume people are reporting this because they are cruising on the highway, then resetting their mpg indicator, and being blown away when it says 20+. But in reality if you actually do the match each fillup its prob nowhere near 20mpg.
I drove to San Antonio this past weekend (~2.5 hours from Houston) and cleared the dash reading prior to leaving and got 22.3 pretty consistently. On the highway I kept it right around 80-85, speed limit is 75. I get 15.1 around town.
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      03-27-2013, 10:21 PM   #34
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i just put kerosene into the tank.
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      03-28-2013, 02:12 AM   #35
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The most I've ever got is 310 miles on a tank, and thats 80% highway and 20% city.

I find that, even if I enjoy my car a little bit and have spirited driving burst once in a while, my gas mileage takes a big hit.

If I drive the way I want to and have fun once in a while I get 250 miles on a tank

If I drive it like I stole it, I get 210 miles on a tank

And if I drive it like a prius I get 310.


I would like to see how modification to your cars impact your gas mileage
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      03-28-2013, 04:48 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WingZeroX5 View Post
I've read somewhere that v8 engines work the most "efficiently" at 60mph? I've stayed at 60-65mph before and the instant MPG shows 33 MPG
most autos are tuned to be the most efficient at around 60-65 mph because they know that is about the speed that the EPA is going to slowly test it up to and let it cruise at to determine mpg ratings.

ford recently took some flak for tuning their hybrids to run on full or mostly electric at up to 62 mph, which pumped up their EPA mpg rating. the reason why it was looked down upon, is real world driving on the freeway is generally around 75-80 mph, and the EPA highway rating would be way off.
granted- they still get great mpg on the highway, but a consistent number of owners didn't appreciate the unrealistic real world mpg contrary to the EPA rating advertised because of EPA mpg rating purposed tuning.

http://news.consumerreports.org/cars...omy-tests.html
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      03-28-2013, 05:16 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MY13E92M3 View Post
I'm sorry in advance if this sounds like a silly question... but what setting do you guys leave your M3 in to acheive the best mpg? Drivelogic setting, dampers, brand of fuel, etc...

With gas going over $4.53/gal here in Hawaii, it's begining to hurt.

I know I might get some cracks here about owning an M3 and complaining about gas prices. My friends do the same thing. Fair enough.


Cheers,
Chris
There is not magic formula for better fuel mileage for s65 engine, or car setting...14-18 MPG city driving with DCT and 22-23 or 24 MPG for higway cruising...but engine sound is priceless...
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      03-28-2013, 08:05 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasSpartan View Post
I drove to San Antonio this past weekend (~2.5 hours from Houston) and cleared the dash reading prior to leaving and got 22.3 pretty consistently. On the highway I kept it right around 80-85, speed limit is 75. I get 15.1 around town.
Yes but did you do the actual math (miles driven divided by gallons filled up)? You will find the onboard computer is quite optimistic.
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      03-28-2013, 02:40 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gatorfast View Post
Yes but did you do the actual math (miles driven divided by gallons filled up)? You will find the onboard computer is quite optimistic.
No, I want to stay optimistic.
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      03-28-2013, 03:07 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gatorfast
BS to all those claiming over 20mpg. The sticker on the car only claims 20mpg highway (which is probably even optimistic). So you are all doing better than the factory rating? Yea right. I assume people are reporting this because they are cruising on the highway, then resetting their mpg indicator, and being blown away when it says 20+. But in reality if you actually do the match each fillup its prob nowhere near 20mpg.
I get 24+ highway, 360 on a full tank
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      03-28-2013, 04:01 PM   #41
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Any one else noticed that when you use the power button it takes less throttle pressure to gain momentum? I have noticed when having the power button on the car needs less throttle to move, i wonder if its actually using less gas or more. I might try leaving it on this next tank to compare it with it off.
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      03-28-2013, 07:39 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by track_warrior View Post
Any one else noticed that when you use the power button it takes less throttle pressure to gain momentum? I have noticed when having the power button on the car needs less throttle to move, i wonder if its actually using less gas or more. I might try leaving it on this next tank to compare it with it off.
Is this a serious post? What do you think the power button does?
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      03-28-2013, 09:32 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gatorfast View Post
Is this a serious post? What do you think the power button does?
It is a serious post, you require less throttle input to make the car move meaning it could be injecting less gas. Im just wondering what the difference in mpg's would be with the button on vs off.
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      03-29-2013, 01:16 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by track_warrior
Quote:
Originally Posted by gatorfast View Post
Is this a serious post? What do you think the power button does?
It is a serious post, you require less throttle input to make the car move meaning it could be injecting less gas. Im just wondering what the difference in mpg's would be with the button on vs off.
Giggles. Maybe less toe energy on the pedal but not less gas.

Come on man, you are the track warrior. Serious.
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