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      03-31-2013, 02:51 PM   #67
tha_good_life
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nice pick!
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      03-31-2013, 04:56 PM   #68
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just found one of these in the back of my garage, thought you might be interested...

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      03-31-2013, 05:07 PM   #69
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Send it over
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      04-08-2013, 03:39 PM   #70
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Send it over
it's all yours!

right click, save picture as...
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      04-08-2013, 05:02 PM   #71
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Very cool man
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      04-09-2013, 05:48 PM   #72
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car should be getting cage this week no photos yet. here is a little project at home. car is ti silver so did the nitto logos to match.
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      04-09-2013, 08:01 PM   #73
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Damn dude!! I missed this thread its epic!
Get a DELAGE sport intake please
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      04-10-2013, 12:08 AM   #74
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Damn dude!! I missed this thread its epic!
Get a DELAGE sport intake please
not yet. has k&n and gonna leave that for now.
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      04-10-2013, 12:12 AM   #75
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not yet. has k&n and gonna leave that for now.



It is like $4k tho right? Mostly just for sound too. I do know there is a sick tune out there for it tho... "sick"
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      04-10-2013, 12:13 AM   #76
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It is like $4k tho right? Mostly just for sound too. I do know there is a sick tune out there for it tho... "sick"
yes epic!
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      04-16-2013, 07:15 AM   #77
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I weighed stuff as I removed it, check out this thread...

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=971140

I would keep a close eye on the rod bearings. Oil analysis will tell you most of the story. According to a master tech and many other familiar with the S54 (non-internet types)...100k miles is typical for the rod bearings. My engine is being refreshed as we speak...102k on the clock. The internals looked good...just the bearings were shot. Preventive replacement before they knock will save you the pain of turning the crankshaft (engine removal). I've also learned that although the clearance spec is .003 - .007 that .006 is no good. Still got off lucky...spun 3 bearings!

For suspension, I'd recommend setting the height so there is no rake. You need all of the travel you can get in the front suspension. Typically, a well setup E46 tucks the rear wheels and has fender gap at the front wheels. When you put it on the scales I'm willing to bet that you'll be pretty damned close to 50/50 cross weights. Many will say no but a little toe out in the front will give the car a crisp turn in and makes it easier to rotate the car (I didn't say oversteer). But I wouldn't do this if you run on tracks that have really long straights as the toe out will heat up more and increase wear.

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I bought an E46 M3 last January as dedicated track car. BigJae and I counted a dozen former/current E9X M3 fellow trackers that have went to the E46M3 platform for the track, in last 2 years in our little circle.
You were the first E46 M3...but I was the FIRST E46!
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      04-16-2013, 10:21 AM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
I weighed stuff as I removed it, check out this thread...

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=971140

I would keep a close eye on the rod bearings. Oil analysis will tell you most of the story. According to a master tech and many other familiar with the S54 (non-internet types)...100k miles is typical for the rod bearings. My engine is being refreshed as we speak...102k on the clock. The internals looked good...just the bearings were shot. Preventive replacement before they knock will save you the pain of turning the crankshaft (engine removal). I've also learned that although the clearance spec is .003 - .007 that .006 is no good. Still got off lucky...spun 3 bearings!

For suspension, I'd recommend setting the height so there is no rake. You need all of the travel you can get in the front suspension. Typically, a well setup E46 tucks the rear wheels and has fender gap at the front wheels. When you put it on the scales I'm willing to bet that you'll be pretty damned close to 50/50 cross weights. Many will say no but a little toe out in the front will give the car a crisp turn in and makes it easier to rotate the car (I didn't say oversteer). But I wouldn't do this if you run on tracks that have really long straights as the toe out will heat up more and increase wear.

thanks jay. will look into getting bearings done. as for suspension that sounds about how its set now. i have more front then rear gap and the rear is fairly tucked. my alignment is going to be similar to before with more negative obviously. -3.5ish front -2.2 rear with slight toe in rear and neutral front.
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      04-17-2013, 10:28 PM   #79
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here are a few photos of the cage. havent seen in person yet.
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      04-18-2013, 07:30 AM   #80
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Take out that radio harness! Its actually separate. Just cut it at the drivers door and when it goes under the dash...be sure to tape off the wires. Or just disconnect the plug behind the HVAC controls.
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      04-18-2013, 09:16 AM   #81
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Quote:
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Take out that radio harness! Its actually separate. Just cut it at the drivers door and when it goes under the dash...be sure to tape off the wires. Or just disconnect the plug behind the HVAC controls.
so its that big bundle from the trunk area all the way forward? any other functionality i would lose there?
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      04-18-2013, 01:20 PM   #82
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Great build!
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      04-18-2013, 02:15 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 325rider
Damn dude!! I missed this thread its epic!
Get a DELAGE sport intake please
I'll sell my Delage intake to either one of you.
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      04-18-2013, 02:21 PM   #84
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Very nice project. Looks very clean. Enjoy it.!
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      04-18-2013, 03:05 PM   #85
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I'll sell my Delage intake to either one of you.
What's the price on that bad boy for an old friend? Eddie mentioned your door cards are better off than mine as well.
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      04-18-2013, 03:29 PM   #86
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      04-18-2013, 03:46 PM   #87
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Very Nice! Love the cage! What color are you painting it?
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      04-18-2013, 06:40 PM   #88
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What's the price on that bad boy for an old friend? Eddie mentioned your door cards are better off than mine as well.
My door cards are near perfect but you better hurry as we have an interested party.
Delage intake: I believe they go for $1500-$2000 used.
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