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      05-22-2013, 03:41 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom @ eas View Post
We can.
What's the costs associated for an install like this?
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      05-22-2013, 06:06 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dereksM3 View Post
What's the costs associated for an install like this?
Remove rear section exhaust.
Remove underbody shielding
Remove differential
Remove rear springs
disconnect rear dampers
disconnect brake lines
remove interior center console and release parking brake cables
lower sub-frame (if you do not have the actual BMW tool to press out the sub-frame bushings, you will need to fully remove the sub-frame from the vehicle and do these bushings in a shop press)

It's a big job and the rear sub-frame must be properly indexed otherwise it will not sit in proper orientation with respect to the front sub-frame. A frame machine is required for this, or a custom made frame JIG to ensure sub-frame placement. The mounts are not slotted for adjustment, but they are over bored enough to create alignment issues when everything is bolted back up.

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      05-22-2013, 06:08 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dereksM3 View Post
What's the costs associated for an install like this?
I'll send you a PM shortly.
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      05-22-2013, 07:08 PM   #26
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Should a BMW dealer have the proper tool for the bushing removal WITHOUT having to remove the subframe?
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      05-27-2013, 05:29 PM   #27
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Of couse have not compared but got major positive results that sound a lot like these from Dinan rear toe link mod- car just feels like it's a much more solid "expensive" feeling, better made car that feels settled at much higher speeds.
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      07-31-2013, 07:14 AM   #28
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Any recommendations for a shop in the Portland, Oregon area? I have the sub-frame, as well as differential mounts from Turner awaiting installation.
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      08-01-2013, 10:11 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sterile stork
Any recommendations for a shop in the Portland, Oregon area? I have the sub-frame, as well as differential mounts from Turner awaiting installation.
absolutely:
AR Auto Service/ Adrenaline Racing
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They did a complete race build on my e46 m3 and will be doing similar work on another forum members e92 m3 in the next week.
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      08-05-2013, 07:56 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuner1 View Post
The TMS Solid/Derin rear subframe mounts are one of the best mods I have ever done!

I debated this mod for months worried that the solid mounts would intorduce too much NVH for my liking but I never liked the vague feeling and lack of feedback through the rear suspension wit the stock rubber bushings. Also, with the added power of my ESS VT2-650 kit the car required slight steering corrections under WOT in a straight line due to bushing deflection and this really bothered me.

It is important to note that I am ultra sensitive when it comes to NVH and other subtle noises and sensations in a car so when I say that the Delrin mounts add close to zero NVH you can trust me! If someone snuck into my garage and installed the mounts at 2am I doubt I would have ever noticed, apart from the super solid and precise feel they give at the rear of the car.

As an added bonus, the mounts work more harmoniously with the DCT and actually reduce clunking and elastic-banding in the driveline. Now when the DCT engages and disengages the clutch at low-speed the car feels more refined. The mounts have also reduced some of the harsh 'bang' during WOT shifts (S5 setting + VT2-650!).

No wonder BMW uses a solid subframe on the M3 GTS and CRT models

If you were on the fence about this mod - DO IT! Money well spent
What is the better aluminum or the delrin solid mounts? Whats the difference?
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      11-26-2013, 06:53 PM   #31
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Any updates from someone with these mounts? Bad idea for a street car?

TIA,
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      11-26-2013, 08:00 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryC View Post
Any updates from someone with these mounts? Bad idea for a street car?

TIA,
Barry
Been using the Powerflex mounts on our street car, will be moving to an solid aluminum setup for the race car build we are building in-house.

As for Poly or Delrin, little to no noticeable difference in vibration. Car feels a bit more nimble afterwards, and less laggy.
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      11-27-2013, 12:29 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryC View Post
Any updates from someone with these mounts? Bad idea for a street car?

TIA,
Barry
So far I have ZERO complaints and would do it again. Bad idea on street car? Well, it depends on your level of comfort. I personally thought the M3 was waaaay too soft and squishy for my liking. I hate slop and needed to make the car tighter than factory.

Then again, mods are in sig and I DD this car in traffic, 20 miles a day.

Oh and I would recommend delrin inserts, so you allow some play versus full solid, just some info I got from a local shop.
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      11-27-2013, 01:43 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by italyix View Post
So far I have ZERO complaints and would do it again. Bad idea on street car? Well, it depends on your level of comfort. I personally thought the M3 was waaaay too soft and squishy for my liking. I hate slop and needed to make the car tighter than factory.

Then again, mods are in sig and I DD this car in traffic, 20 miles a day.

Oh and I would recommend delrin inserts, so you allow some play versus full solid, just some info I got from a local shop.
Good info. I think the stock car is very mushy also. I am going into MRF for the diff and subframe work next month.
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      11-27-2013, 02:52 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryC View Post
Any updates from someone with these mounts? Bad idea for a street car?

TIA,
Barry
Barry,

We have been doing these mounts for many cars now, engineer and manufacture the bushings ourselves and are race proven. Yes, they are considered race parts, but the term in this case can be used loosely. It is a race component that is compliant on the street.

There is a big difference between poly-urethane and delrin in regards to NVH. Delrin is practically solid, poly is still flexible.

They are not a bad idea for a street car, especially if you opt for the Delrin differential bushings versus the solid aluminum. The subframe mounts are a dire necessity to the E9x M3 platform and have been preaching this for over 3 years now. All new M cars have moved toward unitizing the axle carrier (better known as subframe) to the unibody.
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      11-27-2013, 02:59 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Malek@MRF View Post
Barry,

We have been doing these mounts for many cars now, engineer and manufacture the bushings ourselves and are race proven. Yes, they are considered race parts, but the term in this case can be used loosely. It is a race component that is compliant on the street.

There is a big difference between poly-urethane and delrin in regards to NVH. Delrin is practically solid, poly is still flexible.

They are not a bad idea for a street car, especially if you opt for the Delrin differential bushings versus the solid aluminum. The subframe mounts are a dire necessity to the E9x M3 platform and have been preaching this for over 3 years now. All new M cars have moved toward unitizing the axle carrier (better known as subframe) to the unibody.
Hey Malek,

Is there any weight savings going from rubber to aluminum? I would think rubber is much heavier than aluminum.
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      11-27-2013, 03:18 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biggynuts01 View Post
Hey Malek,

Is there any weight savings going from rubber to aluminum? I would think rubber is much heavier than aluminum.
No. Nothing that is appreciable by any means. Haven't taken actual scaled readings to measure the weight difference, but just by feeling them in hand, it is a matter of a few ounces.
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      11-27-2013, 04:35 PM   #38
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Has anyone any knowledge of how the Powerflex Black subframe bushes compare to the TMS solid bushes?
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      11-27-2013, 05:08 PM   #39
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Has anyone any knowledge of how the Powerflex Black subframe bushes compare to the TMS solid bushes?
Pictures are worth a thousand words. I'm running the Powerflex Black Series now both subframe and diff:





Powerflex has a well established reputation for a number of years, they come highly recommended for aggressively driven vehicles. Solid bushings would not adsorb the NVH as much as rubber/poly would - there is no free lunch.

We've installed the bushing on some supercharged and track dedicated cars, feel free to contact me if you have any questions.
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      11-28-2013, 10:27 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom @ eas View Post
Pictures are worth a thousand words. I'm running the Powerflex Black Series now both subframe and diff:





Powerflex has a well established reputation for a number of years, they come highly recommended for aggressively driven vehicles. Solid bushings would not adsorb the NVH as much as rubber/poly would - there is no free lunch.

We've installed the bushing on some supercharged and track dedicated cars, feel free to contact me if you have any questions.
I love powerflex products and am a true believer in what they offer. For this car, I have decided on the turner solid options. The local shop, ar auto just performed the install on a track car build and have found it, while time-consuming (8-11 hours) a straight forward build. Indexing isn't a concern and even so, alignment flexibility in these cars could accommodate. I'm all system green to have it done in the next few weeks.
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      11-28-2013, 10:45 PM   #41
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Where did u buy them ? Work ok with coilovers ? Curious
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      12-03-2013, 02:19 PM   #42
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Where did u buy them ? Work ok with coilovers ? Curious
We do distribute Powerflex.

In the meantime, just got the subframe pulled out of the racecar yesterday.





Car will be getting a custom set of aluminum subframe bushings and diff mounts to eliminate any slop, as well as custom replacement front sway bays, control arms and end links.
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      12-04-2013, 01:30 PM   #43
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anyone know how much NVH will be introduce if we run Solid Aluminum subframe bushing and Rear Differential Mounts?
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      12-04-2013, 01:35 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom @ eas View Post
Powerflex has a well established reputation for a number of years, they come highly recommended for aggressively driven vehicles. Solid bushings would not adsorb the NVH as much as rubber/poly would - there is no free lunch.

We've installed the bushing on some supercharged and track dedicated cars, feel free to contact me if you have any questions.
Don't polyurethane bushings need to be lubed or else they squeak? I'm speaking from my experience with them on aftermarket sway bars.

I always avoid the polyurethane bushings for sway bars because of the squeaking. I've found harder rubber bushings better.
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