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      12-04-2015, 10:18 PM   #1
Talk2meg00se
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@#$%#! fuel door won't shut

Has anyone run into this issue before? Looks like I have a trip to stealership in my near future.
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      12-04-2015, 10:24 PM   #2
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Try pulling the emergency fuel door release (green handle) in your trunk. Should be located above the battery coming through the liner. Maybe that will loosen up the latch to allow it to close.
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      12-04-2015, 10:25 PM   #3
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Similar to this?
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1024023
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      12-04-2015, 10:35 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BzsBimmer View Post
no, not bent or anything like that. the internal latch won't click. if I hold it down and lock the car, it will stay in place. once I unlock the car, however, the door springs open.
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      12-04-2015, 10:36 PM   #5
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Unlock the car dude.
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      12-04-2015, 11:04 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Talk2meg00se View Post
no, not bent or anything like that. the internal latch won't click. if I hold it down and lock the car, it will stay in place. once I unlock the car, however, the door springs open.
Sounds like something is bent inside. Tension is causing the door to pop open when you unlock the car.
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      12-04-2015, 11:04 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
Unlock the car dude.
bro, I don't think you're following along.
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      12-04-2015, 11:31 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Talk2meg00se View Post
bro, I don't think you're following along.
I think he's being cheeky
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      12-05-2015, 09:54 AM   #9
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Then some idiot obviously forgot to close it, locked the car and then bent some metal trying to force it close while the car was locked. Now it won't shut with the damage.

Sounds about right ?
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      12-05-2015, 10:41 AM   #10
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If the ejector won't stay in the retracted position, it probably just needs to be be replaced. It's a simple fix that you can easily diy. They are replaced from the outside quickly and easily.
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      12-05-2015, 06:00 PM   #11
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official diagnosis: ejector (519590) broken - removed and replaced.

20 dollar part, 100 dollars in labor - ugh.
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      12-05-2015, 06:14 PM   #12
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Google this "ejector (519590)" and view the prices.
$6-8 part and do the replacement yourself.
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      12-05-2015, 06:49 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenwelch View Post
Google this "ejector (519590)" and view the prices.
$6-8 part and do the replacement yourself.
I know, I got hosed.

I just don't have time to dick around with this sort of thing, esp over 100 bucks.
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      12-09-2015, 10:25 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Talk2meg00se View Post
I know, I got hosed.

I just don't have time to dick around with this sort of thing, esp over 100 bucks.
But you have time to spend on a forum asking for help? Not trying to be a jackass but the 5 minutes I spent replacing my dead fuel latch was much quicker than wasting 1-2 hours at the dealership.
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      12-09-2015, 12:10 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ec_E92 View Post
But you have time to spend on a forum asking for help? Not trying to be a jackass but the 5 minutes I spent replacing my dead fuel latch was much quicker than wasting 1-2 hours at the dealership.
Think of it from this perspective:

(1) I didn't know the part number until BMW told me what it was;

(2) I didn't have to order / wait for shipping, as BMW had it on site;

(3) I didn't have to figure how to install it, as the BMW mechanic already knew how to do it.

Get it?
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      12-09-2015, 10:21 PM   #16
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Just saying you asked a question seeking help, someone posted the answer a mere 7 min later, and you still ran to the dealership and waited for the fix.
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      12-09-2015, 10:48 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Talk2meg00se View Post
Think of it from this perspective:

(1) I didn't know the part number until BMW told me what it was;

(2) I didn't have to order / wait for shipping, as BMW had it on site;

(3) I didn't have to figure how to install it, as the BMW mechanic already knew how to do it.

Get it?
I agree with the above post. Why did you post the thread asking for help then? Most likely a mechanic /dealership can help with most issues. Get it?
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      12-10-2015, 12:18 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prince_of_Persia View Post
I agree with the above post. Why did you post the thread asking for help then? Most likely a mechanic /dealership can help with most issues. Get it?
You guys aren't particularly bright.

Review answers -- what guidance did they provide?

Man, who let the riff raff in.

Reading comprehension challenges abound here.
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      12-10-2015, 01:06 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MilehighM3 View Post
If the ejector won't stay in the retracted position, it probably just needs to be be replaced. It's a simple fix that you can easily diy. They are replaced from the outside quickly and easily.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kenwelch View Post
Google this "ejector (519590)" and view the prices.
$6-8 part and do the replacement yourself.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Talk2meg00se View Post
official diagnosis: ejector (519590) broken - removed and replaced.

20 dollar part, 100 dollars in labor - ugh.
Well at least future DIY people can save some coin
Let the man be... it's his money.
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      12-10-2015, 05:24 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeM3SSII View Post
Then some idiot obviously forgot to close it, locked the car and then bent some metal trying to force it close while the car was locked. Now it won't shut with the damage.

Sounds about right ?

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      12-10-2015, 05:44 PM   #21
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I had this problem and I am trying to recall from memory how I fixed it.
1. That button thing was the first problem
2. The actuator became the second problem. The actuator pushes the plastic stem into the slot to lock the door shut. The gas attendant broke mine.

I replaced 1. above. It costed $15 from the dealer. You pull it out from the front and push the new on in. No need for trunk access.

The actuator mentioned in 2 above requires trunk access. I did not bother. No one knows it isn't locked shut.
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      12-11-2015, 04:03 AM   #22
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i had the same issue... i bought the replacement on amazon for $15
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