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      02-26-2013, 08:19 PM   #1
paradocs98
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Is new Ventus TD directional?

A couple of members have been speaking highly of the new Hankook Ventus TD as an R-comp competitor to the Nitto NT01. Does anyone know if it is directional? The Hankook website doesn't say, and I haven't found the answer anywhere. Based on pictures of the tread pattern, it looks directional. It's important because the most appropriate setup for our cars--265/35-18 front and 285/30-18 rear--would not allow any tire rotation for wear if they are directional. The only way to even out wear would be to dismount the left front tire and move it to the right front wheel, and vice-versa, and then do the same for the rears.

Ventus TD pic courtesy of trackhq.com:
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      02-26-2013, 08:22 PM   #2
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I'm such a doofus. Now that I look at that picture in large format and up close, I see a very obvious "Rotation" arrow on the sidewall. So, yes, they're directional. Lack of ability to rotate them rules them out for me, then.

So it's either the Toyo Proxes RR or BFG R1 for this coming season.
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      02-26-2013, 08:35 PM   #3
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yeah thats too bad i would like to give them a shot also. do you run nt01s now?
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      02-26-2013, 08:50 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD View Post
yeah thats too bad i would like to give them a shot also. do you run nt01s now?
Done with my second set of NT01s. I've liked them, but I'm not happy with your and others' reports of delamination/tread splice separation.
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      02-26-2013, 08:54 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paradocs98 View Post
Done with my second set of NT01s. I've liked them, but I'm not happy with your and others' reports of delamination/tread splice separation.
keep us informed what you do. i dont really want to repeat that either but not sure where to go next. was thinking about getting scrubs from jpjp like hoosier r6 maybe?
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      02-26-2013, 09:00 PM   #6
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any idea why the rr says cant be shipped to WA or OR?
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      02-26-2013, 11:45 PM   #7
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The tread direction doesn't matter in the dry...

Anyway, I'll be plonking for some Toyo Proxes this season.
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      02-27-2013, 12:02 AM   #8
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i think my next set will be another step up the ladder.
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      02-27-2013, 09:01 AM   #9
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Get the 275 continental slicks over the R6. They last longer and have really similar grip. Heat cycles really destroy R6's quick.
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      02-27-2013, 09:40 AM   #10
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Get the 275 continental slicks over the R6. They last longer and have really similar grip. Heat cycles really destroy R6's quick.
Do you mean the scrubs/takeoffs? I've been tempted to try them, but some people have said they're garbage and not worth the effort. Thoughts?
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      02-27-2013, 10:31 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paradocs98 View Post
Do you mean the scrubs/takeoffs? I've been tempted to try them, but some people have said they're garbage and not worth the effort. Thoughts?
Yep. I've had good luck with scrubs. I got a set from JP that lasted 2 days and did awesome for those 2 days and then corded, but to be fair I drive really hard and this was at Roebling, which is known for melting outside edges. I think you could easily get 3-4 days out of his tires if at a different track, which for like $400 isn't bad at all.

Bimmerworld takeoffs are fresher, but aren't available until season starts.

Worth the $400 or so to try it out. They stick.

EDIT: They require camber to work; don't try them unless you're at at least -2.0, preferably more like -3.0. I was at -2.8 and corded the outside at RRR.
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      02-27-2013, 11:00 AM   #12
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The Continental scrubs are an old Hossier compound......like 3 generations old. So they are not as sticky as a R6. Both Turner and Bimmerworld sell them. Like someone said above they are likely to last 3-4 days if you have camber and rotate. The only downsides are they take two laps to come up to temp/pressure and they don't last as long because they are used. (sorry I didn't stay on topic)
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      02-27-2013, 11:43 AM   #13
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I've run the TD's "Backwards" on a dry track. They ran just fine. I didn't feel any difference.

They are awesome tires. I highly recommend giving them a try. And they make a 295/30/18 that works great with the 265/35/18. That's what I've been running. With Apex Arc-8 10.5" rims in the rear, there's no problems at all. C'mon, if you're gonna do R-comps, then I say put as much rubber down as you can!
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      02-27-2013, 11:46 AM   #14
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to this point i have prefered a square set up. keep increasing front traction until i have a neutral car midcorner. getting close with alignment.
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      02-27-2013, 11:55 AM   #15
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(I have a blower. Generally, it seems the commonly accepted wisdom with the extra hp is to put as much rubber on the rear tires as possible to keep the extra power planted. But even without the extra hp, a staggered setup is viable and commonly done.)
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      02-28-2013, 12:10 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogbone View Post
(I have a blower. Generally, it seems the commonly accepted wisdom with the extra hp is to put as much rubber on the rear tires as possible to keep the extra power planted. But even without the extra hp, a staggered setup is viable and commonly done.)
very true but i have a much easier time controlling traction from apex to exit than i do getting max traction front and rear midcorner and entry. carrying higher speed into and thru corners makes up more time than exit in my opinion. but im a newb.
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