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      12-06-2013, 06:29 PM   #1
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increased emissions & battery discharge warning in cold?

Weather was cold over night -16C (3.2F) car started fine. 8 hours later comfort access didn't work and two warnings displayed: Increased emissions and Increased battery discharge.

I can't make it to the dealer in winter. Has anyone experienced this effect due to cold?
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      12-06-2013, 09:24 PM   #2
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Update: Increased battery discharge went away after the drive home. Increased emissions went away after parking for an hour and then another 10 min drive.
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      12-07-2013, 12:03 AM   #3
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Better get her on a battery charger!!!
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      12-07-2013, 03:24 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schnell325
Better get her on a battery charger!!!
+1. Battery issues will cause all sorts of errors and quirky issues on these cars. The cold weather doesn't help!
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      12-07-2013, 03:39 PM   #5
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Thanks. Charged over night, but only took an hour. Most likely just dipped below the 70% threshold. Should I be replacing my battery anyway?
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      12-08-2013, 12:41 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tyrewt View Post
Thanks. Charged over night, but only took an hour. Most likely just dipped below the 70% threshold. Should I be replacing my battery anyway?
Yes, you should. Your battery is probably in its last legs.
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      12-08-2013, 07:46 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tyrewt View Post
Weather was cold over night -16C (3.2F) car started fine. 8 hours later comfort access didn't work and two warnings displayed:
8 hours later, but how much of that was parked and how long was the drive? A battery that is close to it's end of life will definitely be pushed that last little bit by colder weather, but the length of the daily commute is also a factor. If it's a short drive then parked all day, day after day, that also tends to push the battery to the end of it's life a little faster. How old is your car?
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      12-08-2013, 08:28 PM   #8
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I quite literally just had my battery replaced 3 months ago, and I'm facing all of the above symptoms now that the cold weather has begun.
I commute 24 miles round trip every day.
Do I have to replace my battery again? Or are these symptoms nothing to worry about, and will be fine once Spring comes around?
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      12-09-2013, 01:28 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MysticBlue View Post
8 hours later, but how much of that was parked and how long was the drive? A battery that is close to it's end of life will definitely be pushed that last little bit by colder weather, but the length of the daily commute is also a factor. If it's a short drive then parked all day, day after day, that also tends to push the battery to the end of it's life a little faster. How old is your car?
Parked the entire 8 hours. Drive in the morning is 10 mins, parked for 8, drive home 10 mins. Daily commute is a factor obviously. Car is a 2010, battery replaced in 2011 under warranty.

Both issues are gone now that I charged. Made a point of driving a bit more over the weekend too.
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      12-10-2013, 06:00 PM   #10
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What is the average cost of replacement and installation for a battery?
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      01-12-2014, 05:46 PM   #11
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What is the average cost of replacement and installation for a battery?
I just paid $489.90 for a new battery (installed) from dealer here in Texas.
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      02-19-2014, 10:13 PM   #12
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I've gotten both warnings on real cold evenings. The Increased Emissions only occurred once and then went away a day later. The Increased Battery Discharge happens more often on very cold days.

I had them check it out when the car was for service and they measured the battery and said it was fine. The dealer suggested that it would stay latched if it was a serious issue with the battery. It goes away if I restart the car and does not seem to latch in the fault state. If I still see this warning when the weather warms up, I'll be taking it back in for service.
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      02-20-2014, 04:35 PM   #13
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$601 battery, install, tax. San Diego. Ouch!
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      02-20-2014, 10:54 PM   #14
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$601 battery, install, tax. San Diego. Ouch!
Yikes! I paid 298.00 out the door with my Indy. Imola Motorsports in Minneapolis, they are the best!
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      02-21-2014, 01:16 AM   #15
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I had similiar problem and it was the alternator. Mine is daily driver. Overtime I got similiar issues and they only got more freqeunt ( once a month range ).
Alternator is expensive ($1K) and had to ship from the fatherland.
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      02-21-2014, 01:33 AM   #16
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A low capacity (worn-out) battery will make the alternator work harder/overheat and burnout the internal diodes. Now you will need a new alternator and battery.
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      02-21-2014, 02:42 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenwelch View Post
A low capacity (worn-out) battery will make the alternator work harder/overheat and burnout the internal diodes. Now you will need a new alternator and battery.
But that would only happen over an extended period of time using a weak battery. The sign would be that you constantly needed to recharge or jump it.

Most people, once they experience a weak battery will opt to replace it.
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      02-23-2014, 12:15 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vic311 View Post
Most people, once they experience a weak battery will opt to replace it.
IF only this were true. After teaching automotive classes for 40 years, I have seen many that will jump start, push start, or use a jump-n-carry to keep it going. I have also seen many jump start a very dead battery (won't light the headlights low) and then expect the alternator to work full time (100% duty cycle) to recharge the battery.

The alternator and it's cooling was designed for refilling the battery after normal starting discharge and to provide additional power with the engine running. It was not designed to provide all the power and recharge a dead battery. The excess heat will cause a diode to fail. The average tech will replace the whole alternator not just the failed diode. A rebuilt Alternator/generator listed on RealOem.com is $645 dealer price not including labor.
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      02-23-2014, 06:38 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenwelch View Post
IF only this were true. After teaching automotive classes for 40 years, I have seen many that will jump start, push start, or use a jump-n-carry to keep it going. I have also seen many jump start a very dead battery (won't light the headlights low) and then expect the alternator to work full time (100% duty cycle) to recharge the battery.

The alternator and it's cooling was designed for refilling the battery after normal starting discharge and to provide additional power with the engine running. It was not designed to provide all the power and recharge a dead battery. The excess heat will cause a diode to fail. The average tech will replace the whole alternator not just the failed diode. A rebuilt Alternator/generator listed on RealOem.com is $645 dealer price not including labor.
Totally agree. Most people I guess aren't full aware of how a charging system in a car works. Much easier and cheaper to swap a weak battery.

Strange when people keep re-charging an already weak battery as if that will some how restore it. Once weakened, the fluid inside cannot flow electrons efficiently anymore and it has to be changed.
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      02-23-2014, 10:06 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vic311 View Post
Totally agree. Most people I guess aren't full aware of how a charging system in a car works. Much easier and cheaper to swap a weak battery.

Strange when people keep re-charging an already weak battery as if that will some how restore it. Once weakened, the fluid inside cannot flow electrons efficiently anymore and it has to be changed.
Easy to change a battery, however like everything else on this car its a pain in the ass because you have to get it registered. I believe I read the ECS will continue to treat the new battery as it was the old battery if you don't. So you have to brave the waters of the dreaded service department who will scratch or break something else as they register your battery. Make an appointment, drop it off, wait for it...yuk ...anyone know how to register it so the car knows its a new battery and does not continue to treat it like the old one?

Last edited by M3-S65; 02-23-2014 at 10:12 PM.
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      02-23-2014, 10:10 PM   #21
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You need to drive the shit out of her, no battery issues here after 3 years 30k miles.
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      02-23-2014, 11:28 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3-S65 View Post
Easy to change a battery, however like everything else on this car its a pain in the ass because you have to get it registered. I believe I read the ECS will continue to treat the new battery as it was the old battery if you don't. So you have to brave the waters of the dreaded service department who will scratch or break something else as they register your battery. Make an appointment, drop it off, wait for it...yuk ...anyone know how to register it so the car knows its a new battery and does not continue to treat it like the old one?
You can register the s65 battery with a free software called BMWLogger.

https://www.google.com/#q=BMW+Logger

(Click on the option for the MSS65, scroll to the bottom of the page where it says Download - and depending on if you have Windows or MAC select the appropriate icon.)

This is a free version (good for battery registration) there is a full version which costs depending on the option you choose and has more functionality.

Per their website "Recommended Cable Type For K-Line Is The Blue VAG KKL OBD2 Cable With FT232RL Chip or the EOBD2 Galletto Cable"

I purchased the Blue VAG KKL OBD2 Cable With FT232RL Chip off ebay for $10.
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