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      05-23-2014, 12:08 AM   #1
eNViou$$$
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I think I finally broke my M-DCT..Please HELP!!!

I have a 2012 with M-DCT upgrade, 25k miles on it, VF650 kit that was installed with around 2500 miles on the car, I don't track it, been to strip once, I've done probably 8-10 non launch control pin and go starts, I roll on accelerate hard pretty often from lights and getting on the highway. WELL....I did a pin and go burnout(Regret) at my work yesterday because I have new tires to install, well this morning when i left for work i put in reverse and while rolling backwards a hair, i put into first like i normally do and the car made a bad rattle noise, not quite a metal on metal grind noise....I drove to work and the car shifted 1st to 7th flawless in both auto mode and paddle mode, accelerated fine....I did not accelerate hard, just normal driving....I took it to 85-90 and it was fine, but when i got off highway and started to decel, it made the vibration rattle noise again. Higher rpm decels and downshifts were definitely getting worse the higher the rpm so i stopped trying to replicate the problem. The noise definitely seems to be toward the back of the car. Please Help. Its going back to the shop that did the mods on tuesday but Its killing me to not know what it is. Please help, any info would be appreciated
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      05-23-2014, 12:44 AM   #2
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Check out the obvious (cheap) things first, Flex discs fail all the time.
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      05-23-2014, 01:23 AM   #3
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Drive shaft or diff. Dctvis not in rear
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      05-23-2014, 01:46 AM   #4
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I would agree-- a rattle noise is not typical of a transmission (and I've broken a few). Get the car up on a lift and you will probably find something loose (possibly a part of the exhaust system).
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      05-23-2014, 01:49 AM   #5
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These transmissions are durable as fk, it would take a lot to break them.
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      05-23-2014, 11:05 AM   #6
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Thanks for the input guys, Flex disc or Diff sounds fitting given the high torque of the car and the moronic burnout
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      05-23-2014, 11:39 AM   #7
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Guiiiibo
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      05-24-2014, 09:40 PM   #8
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ok if it is the Guibo, fingers crossed, should i replace with OEM parts or is there a better aftermarket replacement that I should consider using? My initial thought is to replace with OEM because stronger more durable might not be a better choice because SOMETHING has to give, and I'd rather break the stock one then have an aftermarket one hold up and then break something more expensive. Thoughts and advice please
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2012 e92 M3
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VF650--Meth Inject
Volk TE37SL 19x9.5F 19x10.5R +22
Pirelli P-Zero Silver's 265/35/19F 285/30/19R
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      05-26-2014, 05:52 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eNViou$$$
ok if it is the Guibo, fingers crossed, should i replace with OEM parts or is there a better aftermarket replacement that I should consider using? My initial thought is to replace with OEM because stronger more durable might not be a better choice because SOMETHING has to give, and I'd rather break the stock one then have an aftermarket one hold up and then break something more expensive. Thoughts and advice please
OEM of course
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      05-27-2014, 09:29 PM   #10
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Took the car in today, it was a broken bolt on the rear diff rubber bushing. It sheared off and the diff was hanging all sorts of crooked. I took it to the shop that built the car and they fixed it for a couple hours labor charge, and ordered all new Polyurethane subframe and rear diff bushings. Got off cheap I suppose. Thanks again
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2012 e92 M3
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VF650--Meth Inject
Volk TE37SL 19x9.5F 19x10.5R +22
Pirelli P-Zero Silver's 265/35/19F 285/30/19R
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      05-27-2014, 09:57 PM   #11
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Reading down that was to be my guess. Easy fix.

Go solid sub frame and poly diff mounts.
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