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      12-22-2013, 12:25 PM   #155
mau
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I got the Limp mode a few days ago, and I got the following error codes:

2B39 E8
Misfire with shutdown cylinder 5

2B3A E2
Misfire with shutdown cylinder 6

2B3B E8
Misfire with shutdown cylinder 7

2B3C E8
Misfire with shutdown cylinder 8

2B41 E4
Misfire with shutdown of several cylinders

2B57
Motor emergency programm activated

2796
Motor emergency programm activated


I also found this code:
2B13
That I think is something with battery (then I changed the battery)



Is possible to be a problem with the throttle actuator appears without the specific code?

I also made a video, starting the car without starting the engine:
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      12-22-2013, 01:09 PM   #156
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This is a money thread! Thanks!
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      02-27-2014, 09:26 AM   #157
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Many, many thanks for this thread and the extra money I now have in my pocket.

Only issue I had was with the re-installation of the plenum. I ended up not getting a good seal on two or three throttle bodies and crimped the rubber after tightening the clamps. No codes were thrown but the audible change under the hood was a dead give away. Easy fix.

I also shook my head at all the crap I had to clean out of the airbox (sticks, leaves, gravel). Kinda scary.

Thanks again!
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      02-27-2014, 09:42 AM   #158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaymattc View Post
Many, many thanks for this thread and the extra money I now have in my pocket.

Only issue I had was with the re-installation of the plenum. I ended up not getting a good seal on two or three throttle bodies and crimped the rubber after tightening the clamps. No codes were thrown but the audible change under the hood was a dead give away. Easy fix.

I also shook my head at all the crap I had to clean out of the airbox (sticks, leaves, gravel). Kinda scary.

Thanks again!
Glad to hear! It's one of those DIY's where it takes you a while the first time, but if you had to do it again, you can be twice as quick.

Airbox is completely normal, this car sucks up all sorts of debris so it's definitely important to make sure the air filter is in tip top shape. Here's mine after a few mountain runs

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      02-27-2014, 05:12 PM   #159
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Let me know if you guys need hookups on these throttle actuators. We have them in stock and ready to ship
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      02-27-2014, 07:41 PM   #160
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Let me know if you guys need hookups on these throttle actuators. We have them in stock and ready to ship
how much
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      03-07-2014, 02:41 PM   #161
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Splendid diy - yesterday, my car threw CDBF and 2b57, which I presumed is the Throttle Actuator for bank 1. My Zurich warranty said it's not covered as it's not an 'internally lubricated' part! I promptly placed an order for a replacement one yet this morning the codes were gone. I will be following this guide if the codes ever return.
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      03-07-2014, 04:07 PM   #162
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Splendid diy - yesterday, my car threw CDBF and 2b57, which I presumed is the Throttle Actuator for bank 1. My Zurich warranty said it's not covered as it's not an 'internally lubricated' part! I promptly placed an order for a replacement one yet this morning the codes were gone. I will be following this guide if the codes ever return.
What year/miles? If you have to do one, ought to do both as the labor is not much more, and seen a lot of cases where the second one fails shortly after the first (like mine).
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      03-07-2014, 04:43 PM   #163
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Originally Posted by GregW / Oregon View Post
What year/miles? If you have to do one, ought to do both as the labor is not much more, and seen a lot of cases where the second one fails shortly after the first (like mine).
Rolled just over 45.1k miles this morning. You might have a point, but those suckers ain't cheap. If the codes don't return this month, I will be able to do them both at once...
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      03-07-2014, 04:48 PM   #164
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Originally Posted by ///mawana View Post
Rolled just over 45.1k miles this morning. You might have a point, but those suckers ain't cheap. If the codes don't return this month, I will be able to do them both at once...
As noted in my posts, BMW and the dealer covered both of mine under "goodwill". It's a known issue - worth a shot if you have a relationship with a dealer.
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      03-07-2014, 05:00 PM   #165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregW / Oregon View Post
As noted in my posts, BMW and the dealer covered both of mine under "goodwill". It's a known issue - worth a shot if you have a relationship with a dealer.
Yeah, that's the thing, wish I was still back in MI, down here the dealers are still alien to me,... any tips I could go about it?
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      03-07-2014, 05:24 PM   #166
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Yeah, that's the thing, wish I was still back in MI, down here the dealers are still alien to me,... any tips I could go about it?
Next time codes are thrown, take it into a dealer. If they diagnose it positive you can then pursue the goodwill angle. No way this kind of issue should occur at that mileage.
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      03-09-2014, 11:41 AM   #167
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I've run into a snag. How do you get the linkage from the actuator to the operating shaft (the pull rod) off? I tried pulling them off of one end but I didn't want to pull too hard and break anything. The new actuator has is own arm to connect to this rod, which leads me to believe that you don't re-use the arm that is bolted onto the old actuator and connected to the pull rod. You need to get the pull rod off. Is there some sort of trick to this?


Cheers.
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      03-09-2014, 12:38 PM   #168
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ersin View Post
I've run into a snag. How do you get the linkage from the actuator to the operating shaft (the pull rod) off? I tried pulling them off of one end but I didn't want to pull too hard and break anything. The new actuator has is own arm to connect to this rod, which leads me to believe that you don't re-use the arm that is bolted onto the old actuator and connected to the pull rod. You need to get the pull rod off. Is there some sort of trick to this?


Cheers.
I used one of these (specifically the one int he middle). You could probably get away with a screwdriver.


Shouldn't take much force to pop it off. Then just put new actuator, and pop the linkage on.
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      03-10-2014, 10:22 AM   #169
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Thanks to everyone here, and especially W///. I was afraid that pulling the bar off would bend the levers it was attached to. But I used a little screwdriver and popped it off. Needless to say the job was a success. I cleared the SES with my cheap little OBD tool and now no SES or other lights, and more importantly, no limp mode.

A few observations:

1) The only hex tools needed are 6mm and 10mm. I was surprised that I didn't have to save any loose hardware for this. For the 10mm bolts for the airbox and coolant expansion tank I just screwed the bolts back in the hole so they would not get lost.

2) I had all the torx sizes in my tool set, except T-30. And T-30 is what is used to bolt down the actuator. Instead of buying a T-30 screwdriver I bought a 1/4 socket end and used a 6" and 3" extender to get down to the bolts. Be careful when backing them out and use the magnet to get them out. I kept the torx end on the bolt until I maneuvered the magnet onto the bolt. Similarly, I was very careful putting the bolt back in with the magnet.

3) I popped the connector bar on the control shaft first and left the other end attached to the actuator until I got it out. It helps being on there to get the actuator out. Just be careful not to let the arm get pinched somewhere in the tight quarters. It was a pain pulling the actuator out. The new goes in with less trouble.

4) I stressed about getting all the electrical connectors plugged back in. There was one left hanging that had me worried until I remembered that it plugs into the air plenum.

4) I used a rubber mallet as a fulcrum and a screwdriver as a lever to push up on the front of the air plenum when taking it off. Pictures are coming. It wouldn't budge by me pulling up on it, but using the lever was a breeze.

5) Getting the plenum back on was similarly a PITA. I had my son help me. This is about the only thing you need another person for. However, he did help by holding the flashlight for me when reaching the back throttle bodies when the plenum is on, both for taking it off and putting it back.


Cheers.
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      03-17-2014, 10:32 AM   #170
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Still not sure why this guide hasn't been stickied???

///W, thanks for your splendid intructions as I was able to succesfully replace the bank 1 actuator yesterday. I had done the spark plug a couple months back, so that helped. The only issue I had was that I broke the connector that attaches/sits on top of the electrical harness towards the cabin. All it needed was to be pushed out (duh!).

Noticed also, I had a coolant leak on the small line atop from the expansion tank to the engine. Being Sunday with the dealership closed, on further inspection, noted it was just the o-ring that was busted. Luckily, I had a close-sized one lying around - will keep monitoring the leak but all seems well.
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      04-11-2014, 10:09 AM   #171
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great write up my throttle body just went down a few days ago on the 2008.
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      04-11-2014, 01:07 PM   #172
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great write up my throttle body just went down a few days ago on the 2008.
I think it's covered under some law in CA from what someone told me. Check that out first.
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      04-11-2014, 01:20 PM   #173
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I think it's covered under some law in CA from what someone told me. Check that out first.
Emissions equipment is be warranted for 8 years/80,000 miles per federal EPA requirements. Seems like this would apply.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf Emissions warranty.pdf (147.1 KB, 57 views)
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      04-30-2014, 06:44 PM   #174
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Emissions equipment is be warranted for 8 years/80,000 miles per federal EPA requirements. Seems like this would apply.
Is this emissions equipment? Didn't see throttle actuator on the list.

Just happened on my 2008 M3

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      04-30-2014, 11:14 PM   #175
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Is this emissions equipment? Didn't see throttle actuator on the list.

Just happened on my 2008 M3
If TBAs aren't working properly it affects emissions. Worth a shot. How many miles on your car?

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      05-01-2014, 06:38 PM   #176
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If TBAs aren't working properly it affects emissions. Worth a shot. How many miles on your car?
68K!
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