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      11-28-2012, 03:42 PM   #23
W///
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damon 808 State View Post
You guys are a life saver. I have found the Bavarian Technic tool as recommended. This looks pretty easy to use and reasonably priced. It looks like a great investment. But just for piece of mind, are there any other brands that I should research as well? Thanks, I will update the post if resetting the code works. Wish me luck!!
The only thing I wished it could do would be to reset the battery adaptation for when you change your battery. Otherwise, any check engine, DSC or brake lights can be read with the BT tool. No need to look elsewhere in my opinion.

Definitely let us know if resetting it using the BT tool works for you. Then at least I won't be the only one that have tried it!
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      11-28-2012, 03:55 PM   #24
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Great DIY! I would consider these a wear item on the S65 engine- I'm sure this article will become useful for many M3 owners as the car ages.
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      11-28-2012, 04:43 PM   #25
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Just wish there is a more permanent solution than to replace these every so often. The thread on the M5 board seems promising.
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      12-06-2012, 01:37 AM   #26
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Update: Bank 2 error this time...
It turns out that an intermediary connector that feeds the Bank 2 position sensor plastic clip was broken. This allowed the wire harness to become miss positioned and when the throttle bank 2 was in a fully opened state would rub against the wire harness stripping the insulation on the wire causing a Bank 2 position error. I replaced the Harness and used zip ties to hold in place. Sorry for the late update, but I wanted to make sure that this was in fact the fix.

Thanks again for all of the replies.

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      12-14-2012, 02:43 PM   #27
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Saw this picture in another thread that I forgot to upload on here. You can see the 2 actuators clearly.

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      12-18-2012, 08:57 AM   #28
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Is there any way to know if these actuators are starting to go bad? What do these actuators really do (sorry I am pretty noob to how internals of an engine work)? I have near 60k miles on my car and my car idles like I need a minor valve adjustment. I probably should have checked these out prior to installing the supercharger.
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      12-18-2012, 09:26 AM   #29
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If you are only having issues at idle, your throttle actuators may be fine. I'm not positive about the S65, but for the S85 there are separate idle actuator from the throttle actuators. When opening throttle, the idle actuator opens fully first, before the throttle actuator is opened.
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      02-21-2013, 03:00 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcolley View Post
If you are only having issues at idle, your throttle actuators may be fine. I'm not positive about the S65, but for the S85 there are separate idle actuator from the throttle actuators. When opening throttle, the idle actuator opens fully first, before the throttle actuator is opened.
I'm having problems with my idle actuator right now and from what I see, the part number(http://www.bmwpartspros.com/parts/20...icleid=1441963) that W/// gaves us is for the idle actuator so I'm guessing throttle actuator and idle actuator on the S65 is the same part! Not sure though!
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      02-21-2013, 03:28 PM   #31
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So, I had the good fortune of driving my S85 for almost two weeks in random Prius (limp) mode. Here's what I discovered:

- the fault code switched sides when I swapped throttle actuators from bank 1 to bank 2. This verified I had a faulty actuator and not a position sensor.
-Rotating the gears to realign the bad teeth in the throttle actuator had no effect. It still faulted.
- having a good daily commute to monitor when it dropped to limp mode, it normally occurs when the throttle actuator would have been shut and the idle actuator open. Interestingly, the fully shut throttle body position has the throttle actuator arm at the twelve o'clock position. This aligns the bad teeth on the black gear with the white gear.

The gears appear to be common between the S65 and S85 throttle actuators. I am working with another guy overseas to design and make an improved set of gears or them. Will update here if it does any good.
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      02-22-2013, 07:45 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex07M3 View Post
I'm having problems with my idle actuator right now and from what I see, the part number(http://www.bmwpartspros.com/parts/20...icleid=1441963) that W/// gaves us is for the idle actuator so I'm guessing throttle actuator and idle actuator on the S65 is the same part! Not sure though!
Strange. I don't have any experience with the ICV, but the numbers I provided are for sure the throttle actuators. That's what I used when I ordered the parts. I'll look into it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jcolley View Post
So, I had the good fortune of driving my S85 for almost two weeks in random Prius (limp) mode. Here's what I discovered:

- the fault code switched sides when I swapped throttle actuators from bank 1 to bank 2. This verified I had a faulty actuator and not a position sensor.
-Rotating the gears to realign the bad teeth in the throttle actuator had no effect. It still faulted.
- having a good daily commute to monitor when it dropped to limp mode, it normally occurs when the throttle actuator would have been shut and the idle actuator open. Interestingly, the fully shut throttle body position has the throttle actuator arm at the twelve o'clock position. This aligns the bad teeth on the black gear with the white gear.

The gears appear to be common between the S65 and S85 throttle actuators. I am working with another guy overseas to design and make an improved set of gears or them. Will update here if it does any good.
When you say bad teeth, how bad did it look? With mine, it was hardly damaged. THe only reason I looked in the first place was because there were shavings inside the housing.

I'd love to know if there's a good fix for this vs dropping $7-800 each time these things let go. I'm just afraid that they are so sensitive that getting a new one is the only way to go. When I was playing with all the motions of the bad actuator, everything seemed fine to be honest.
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      02-22-2013, 08:33 AM   #33
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They are separate parts. The throttle actuator is nothing more than a large servo not unlike an RC car, but with a CAN interface. It uses a linkage arm to operate the throttle body butterflies.

The idle control is similar, but has a valve built in to control airflow through it.

Look here for part numbers:
http://realoem.com/bmw/partgrp.do?mo...id=52128&hg=13


Idle actuator is
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...41&hg=13&fg=15


Throttle actuator is
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...45&hg=13&fg=15
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      02-22-2013, 08:53 AM   #34
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Mamzing write up. Thanks
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      02-22-2013, 04:37 PM   #35
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I'm wondering if this is a mechanical or electrical failure on these things when they drop out at less than 1,000 miles and greater than 60,000 miles or sometimes never? Seems like a mechanical design defect would be more consistent a'la E36 water pump impellers at 60-75k
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      03-02-2013, 06:46 PM   #36
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I think it's a mechanical problem, but I haven't confirmed that yet.

I just replaced an actuator on my S85 and had grand plans to take the case cover/electronics from my old actuator and install it on a new housing/motor/gearset and see if the problem was gone. But, when the time came to actually replace it, I chickened out as it's my daily driver and I don't have as much spare time as I would like.

This would tell us if the problem is in the electronics or electromechanical side of the actuator. Hopefully someone else will try this soon before I get a chance to.

I'm building a CAN sniffer/logger to try and capture the data between the DME and actuators. I just updated my post over on M5board with pictures of it. This will let me log and hopefully decipher the signals and then the Arduino program can be modified to allow it to control the actuator directly for bench testing.

If you replace one, take the old one apart and see what you find. I bet you will see that the worn spot on the gears corresponds with where the linkage arm is when the engine between idle and low throttle and the actuator has the throttle bodies fully shut.

If the S65 is like the S85, the DME commands the idle actuators to open fully first and once they (it for S65, we have two of them) are maxed out, the throttle actuators start to open up.

This leads me to believe that the gear wear may be due to chatter and/or vibration from the gears when they are not under load. I believe it may be a lack of tension that allows the vibration to wear the teeth.

It is interesting to note that in the picture above, the S65 actuator arms are *almost* vertical with the throttle bodies closed. On the S85, they are *exactly* vertical at idle.

I am curious from someone who has replaced one on an M3 if the actuator arm has to be moved from its endpoint to connect the ball linkage.
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      03-09-2013, 03:52 AM   #37
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I was just driving home, noticed the car was missing every now and again. Then on a hill, with steady-applied throttle, the miss became worse, before a dreaded engine malfunction indication. Just prior to driving home, I washed the car and noticed that upon startup, throttle input was met with an initial dip in RPM before moving up. Without my being able to get a code reader yet, is this an indication of the throttle actuator?
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      03-10-2013, 06:47 AM   #38
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Yours sounds more like an idle valve to me.
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      03-10-2013, 07:21 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richbot View Post
I'm wondering if this is a mechanical or electrical failure on these things when they drop out at less than 1,000 miles and greater than 60,000 miles or sometimes never? Seems like a mechanical design defect would be more consistent a'la E36 water pump impellers at 60-75k
I would think it is most likely an electrical issue with the motor....... i.e. increased internal resistance. If there is little damage to the gears the only other thing that could cause an issue is that a bushing on one of the gears may be getting tight or something.

Disassembling a new versus failed actuator and testing the motor for resistance or the gearbox for additional drag would allow you to pinpoint the problem. There is a possibility it could be an issue with the circuit board as well, but generally speaking solid state electronics are pretty reliable unless damaged by moisture!
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      03-22-2013, 05:23 AM   #40
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Add me to the list.

I puked a little but when the dealership quoted their price so many thanks for posting this DIY. My only hesitations right now are lack of free time and a general distaste for working on cars in cold weather. But that labor price is nuts.

Question: they suggested perhaps attempting to replace the sensor first since it is the cheaper route and might also be the problem. Good idea? I was actually a bit surprised that the codes wouldn't tell them more precisely what should be replaced...
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      03-22-2013, 06:41 AM   #41
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One more for the throttle actuator repair (bank 1).

Took my car in for the bumper repair (when some douche hit me in the parking lot and didn't leave a note from last Friday).

On the way to the dealership I lit up like a Christmas tree and 'limped' into the dealer.

Luckily I am CPO for another 35K and mine is being repaired under warranty.
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      03-22-2013, 06:43 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkoesel View Post
Add me to the list.

I puked a little but when the dealership quoted their price so many thanks for posting this DIY. My only hesitations right now are lack of free time and a general distaste for working on cars in cold weather. But that labor price is nuts.

Question: they suggested perhaps attempting to replace the sensor first since it is the cheaper route and might also be the problem. Good idea? I was actually a bit surprised that the codes wouldn't tell them more precisely what should be replaced...
If you DIY, it shoudl cost you around $800-$850 out the door just for parts. Not quite sure what sensor you are talking about. Did they say which one of the 2 throttle actuators were giving you issues?
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      03-22-2013, 04:27 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W/// View Post
If you DIY, it shoudl cost you around $800-$850 out the door just for parts.
Yeah, and that's a chunk of change, but still a lot less than paying the labor.

Quote:
Not quite sure what sensor you are talking about.
Throttle position sensor

Quote:
Did they say which one of the 2 throttle actuators were giving you issues?
I think it was bank2. I'll have to look at the invoice when I pick the car up tomorrow morning.
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      03-24-2013, 05:15 PM   #44
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Happened to me. Im so dissapointed how this kind of cars have this kind of failures , so i decided to talk to bmw corporate directly stating my comments about this issue. They "are going to review the case" with bmw technicians to see if they could help me subsidizing some percentage of the cost of the spare part.

My car has 32000kms and 3 yrs of use so im out of warranty coverage.

I ve seen a lot of people complaining about this problem , what i havent found is what could be the possible cause or causes?

Why has anyone complained with bmw directly?
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