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      12-18-2013, 07:05 AM   #1
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My trials changing 2009 e93 M3 battery

Hello all! Let me be upfront, as I know this thread has some redundant/repeated information; however, my hope is to consolidate at least a small portion of that information (from other threads) so that you can learn from my trial(s), and errors (and ignorance in some cases). For those of you intent on making a superficial judgement re: reasonable people questioning unreasonable BMW parts costs and/or repairs (as I read on other threads related to this topic), please move on, you annoy me and provide no real value to BMW owners looking for helpful information. For those in need of some basic information, I sincerely hope this helps. I’ll try and be clear when I state “fact,” “opinion,” or “inferred” information where applicable. With that, I’ll crawl off my soap box now…

Background:

My 2009 e93 M3 recently experienced battery “issues” at 57,000 miles. It was slow to turn over, the clock began to lag several minutes behind over a few days, and an “Increased Emissions” light illuminated on start-up. Even in my limited knowledge, I began to suspect a battery in need of replacement- so I began to look into costs for a new one (and whine to myself that I was just 7k out of warranty). I’ve always been a subscriber to dealership service and parts, but their cost quote for a new battery was shocking to me, and caused me to question my blind allegiance.
As of 16 Dec, 2013, the information was presented as follows:

- Cost for a replacement battery by BMW of Concord: $498.20 + cost of registering battery to car computer. (Fact)
- Cost of registering battery by BMW of Concord: similar to BMW of San Francisco below (inferred through discussion w/service advisor)
- Cost of registering battery by BMW of San Francisco: $215.00 (Fact)
- Total cost for 2009 e93 M3 replacement battery: $713.20 (Seriously).
- “OEM” battery in car: Banner (Austria) brand, 900CCA, 90ah, 160RC battery, group size 49 (group size inferred from comparison to the Duralast I ended up replacing it with).
- Banner OEM battery for e93 M3 discontinued (fact, checked website and dealership), replaced with East Penn brand battery rated at 900CCA, 92ah, unknown RC (information was passed via phone call with dealership)

I was left to decide if I should use BMW, or pursue my own course of action. I decided on the latter. I did some “internet digging” (‘cause we all know the internet never lies!), and found there were several hundred battery manufacturers for automotive purposes; however, a few were repeated several times as they seem to be the major parent companies for a significant market share (opinion). Johnson Controls, Delphi, and Exide were named (though I learned Delphi was purchased by Johnson Controls). Douglas Battery, and East Penn were also named, more specifically in relation to BMW (East Penn often with the name Dekar if I’m not mistaken). FYI, East Penn manufactures West Marine batteries as well. But I digress…

Bottom line is, I ultimately decided I was not going to spend $700+ to replace a car battery. Here’s why. The East Penn battery that BMW is now using to replace OEM batteries in my vehicle cost $199.25 retail! Yes, I refuse to pay BMW $498.20 for a $199.25 battery. I don’t mind a slight markup. I don’t mind increased labor costs for BMW trained mechanics, but a mark-up in excess of 200% (and you know BMW doesn’t pay retail on the battery as we do). Are you F’N kidding me!!?

What I decided made sense:

First priority, match battery specifications,-with the most important being the following…battery type [Absorbed Glass Matt or “AGM” vs. flooded cell], Cold Cranking Amps (or CCA)- 900 in this case, Reserve Capacity (RC)- 160 (I exceeded this by using a battery with 170 RC), and group type (49 in this case).

There are several batteries that meet or exceed these specifications. I decided on a Duralast H8-AGM battery (made by Johnson Controls btw). Cost to me $169.99. It will be $184.99, unless you give them your old one (core) and get the $15.00 credit. I also received a 10% discount on top for being military. Next step was to have the battery “registered.” Registering and Coding have been discussed extensively on other posts by much more informed members than me. The way I understand it is this (dumbed down that is, I am a pilot after all)… Registering is required on my vehicle to tell the car’s computer that you have put a new battery in it, and it will reset the algorithm it uses to charge it over time (ie, it won’t attempt to work as hard to charge a fresh battery). Why BMW didn’t create a sensor that reads battery level and adjusts accordingly is for another discussion, but it should be readily obvious. If you fail to do this, it doesn’t mean your battery won’t work, but you will more than likely decrease the service life of your new battery, and I would guess a potential secondary effect to your alternator (opinion). Coding on the other hand (and this is where I’m drifting way out of my expertise) seems to relate to whether you change battery “types” (AGM vs flooded cell for instance). For the experts, please chime in. I apologize for including conjecture here.

I looked into shops capable of registering or coding. I received estimates ranging from $85-$215. Many of you have the tools necessary to do this yourself, or know a buddy in a shop that can do it for you. I paid $130.00 for an independent certified BMW shop to swap my battery and register it with factory BMW software. The final cost to me to replace my BMW battery was:
$183.11 (I didn’t give AutoZone my core) + $130.00 (register w/computer)= total cost of $313.11 + time. Total cost of BMW of Concord to replace my battery: $713.20. Total savings to me of $400.09 + PRINCIPLE.


Caveat: I’m not sure how this impacts e90/92 owners, in that I’m not sure if the e93 ‘vert has higher electrical demands…

For all, I hope this wasn’t “preachy”, that I posted this in the correct Forum, and that it helps even one person! Feel free to email me!

And I am deploying and selling aforementioned M3 (shameless plug) -------- No electrical issues!!!

Respectfully,
Clif
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      12-18-2013, 08:40 AM   #2
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Great information. This is the kind of material I like to read. ..factual unbiased detailed information. I'm in the same boat right now, but expenses are a little lower here in GA. Tischer sells the battery for about $220 shipped to me then I can take the battery and get $10 at any battery store for recycle and lastly I have an indy shop to register it for $47.50. Mind you I'm replacing and installing the batteries myself, but this is peanuts. I expect to have barley over $250 in an oem battery. Not bad compared to some of the other stories I've read about.

Thanks for sharing.
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      12-18-2013, 08:52 AM   #3
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This is great information thank you for sharing .
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      12-18-2013, 12:25 PM   #4
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Awesome post. Love the savings + PRINCIPLE, so true!
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      12-18-2013, 12:26 PM   #5
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BTW, where did you buy the battery?
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      12-18-2013, 02:12 PM   #6
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Thanks Clif for the great information, I am about to go through the same scenario!
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      12-19-2013, 09:27 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDT View Post
Hello all! Let me be upfront, as I know this thread has some redundant/repeated information; however, my hope is to consolidate at least a small portion of that information (from other threads) so that you can learn from my trial(s), and errors (and ignorance in some cases). For those of you intent on making a superficial judgement re: reasonable people questioning unreasonable BMW parts costs and/or repairs (as I read on other threads related to this topic), please move on, you annoy me and provide no real value to BMW owners looking for helpful information. For those in need of some basic information, I sincerely hope this helps. I’ll try and be clear when I state “fact,” “opinion,” or “inferred” information where applicable. With that, I’ll crawl off my soap box now…

Background:

My 2009 e93 M3 recently experienced battery “issues” at 57,000 miles. It was slow to turn over, the clock began to lag several minutes behind over a few days, and an “Increased Emissions” light illuminated on start-up. Even in my limited knowledge, I began to suspect a battery in need of replacement- so I began to look into costs for a new one (and whine to myself that I was just 7k out of warranty). I’ve always been a subscriber to dealership service and parts, but their cost quote for a new battery was shocking to me, and caused me to question my blind allegiance.
As of 16 Dec, 2013, the information was presented as follows:

- Cost for a replacement battery by BMW of Concord: $498.20 + cost of registering battery to car computer. (Fact)
- Cost of registering battery by BMW of Concord: similar to BMW of San Francisco below (inferred through discussion w/service advisor)
- Cost of registering battery by BMW of San Francisco: $215.00 (Fact)
- Total cost for 2009 e93 M3 replacement battery: $713.20 (Seriously).
- “OEM” battery in car: Banner (Austria) brand, 900CCA, 90ah, 160RC battery, group size 49 (group size inferred from comparison to the Duralast I ended up replacing it with).
- Banner OEM battery for e93 M3 discontinued (fact, checked website and dealership), replaced with East Penn brand battery rated at 900CCA, 92ah, unknown RC (information was passed via phone call with dealership)

I was left to decide if I should use BMW, or pursue my own course of action. I decided on the latter. I did some “internet digging” (‘cause we all know the internet never lies!), and found there were several hundred battery manufacturers for automotive purposes; however, a few were repeated several times as they seem to be the major parent companies for a significant market share (opinion). Johnson Controls, Delphi, and Exide were named (though I learned Delphi was purchased by Johnson Controls). Douglas Battery, and East Penn were also named, more specifically in relation to BMW (East Penn often with the name Dekar if I’m not mistaken). FYI, East Penn manufactures West Marine batteries as well. But I digress…

Bottom line is, I ultimately decided I was not going to spend $700+ to replace a car battery. Here’s why. The East Penn battery that BMW is now using to replace OEM batteries in my vehicle cost $199.25 retail! Yes, I refuse to pay BMW $498.20 for a $199.25 battery. I don’t mind a slight markup. I don’t mind increased labor costs for BMW trained mechanics, but a mark-up in excess of 200% (and you know BMW doesn’t pay retail on the battery as we do). Are you F’N kidding me!!?

What I decided made sense:

First priority, match battery specifications,-with the most important being the following…battery type [Absorbed Glass Matt or “AGM” vs. flooded cell], Cold Cranking Amps (or CCA)- 900 in this case, Reserve Capacity (RC)- 160 (I exceeded this by using a battery with 170 RC), and group type (49 in this case).

There are several batteries that meet or exceed these specifications. I decided on a Duralast H8-AGM battery (made by Johnson Controls btw). Cost to me $169.99. It will be $184.99, unless you give them your old one (core) and get the $15.00 credit. I also received a 10% discount on top for being military. Next step was to have the battery “registered.” Registering and Coding have been discussed extensively on other posts by much more informed members than me. The way I understand it is this (dumbed down that is, I am a pilot after all)… Registering is required on my vehicle to tell the car’s computer that you have put a new battery in it, and it will reset the algorithm it uses to charge it over time (ie, it won’t attempt to work as hard to charge a fresh battery). Why BMW didn’t create a sensor that reads battery level and adjusts accordingly is for another discussion, but it should be readily obvious. If you fail to do this, it doesn’t mean your battery won’t work, but you will more than likely decrease the service life of your new battery, and I would guess a potential secondary effect to your alternator (opinion). Coding on the other hand (and this is where I’m drifting way out of my expertise) seems to relate to whether you change battery “types” (AGM vs flooded cell for instance). For the experts, please chime in. I apologize for including conjecture here.

I looked into shops capable of registering or coding. I received estimates ranging from $85-$215. Many of you have the tools necessary to do this yourself, or know a buddy in a shop that can do it for you. I paid $130.00 for an independent certified BMW shop to swap my battery and register it with factory BMW software. The final cost to me to replace my BMW battery was:
$183.11 (I didn’t give AutoZone my core) + $130.00 (register w/computer)= total cost of $313.11 + time. Total cost of BMW of Concord to replace my battery: $713.20. Total savings to me of $400.09 + PRINCIPLE.


Caveat: I’m not sure how this impacts e90/92 owners, in that I’m not sure if the e93 ‘vert has higher electrical demands…

For all, I hope this wasn’t “preachy”, that I posted this in the correct Forum, and that it helps even one person! Feel free to email me!

And I am deploying and selling aforementioned M3 (shameless plug) -------- No electrical issues!!!

Respectfully,
Clif
Great thread. Came just in time, since my 5.5 year old battery is beginning to display mood swings and a mind of its own. I have the same OEM Banner battery as you do. The matching replacement from a nearby Canadian dealer was $360 just for the part, without any labor or registration included. I'd imagine it will cost me more than $500 out the door.


As for battery registration, it's simple. You can download free BMWLogger on a laptop, and buy a K+DCAN cable and do it yourself. The One Stop Electronics cable is about $100. Don't buy the cheapo $20-$35 cables off eBay. I bought one and it failed after using it about a dozen times or so I now have the One Stop Electronics cable on order.

You can also do the coding yourself if you change battery specs also using free software and the cable, but it's a bit more technical and involved. I have no idea how to do it so I'll stick with a battery matching OEM specs.
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      12-20-2013, 12:29 PM   #8
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I just got my new battery yesterday for just $185 CAD on sale from Crappy Tire. It was MotoMaster Eliminator Ultra Flat Plate AGM Automotive Battery Groul L5/49 which is just a rebranded Exide Edge AGM Car Battery (Group L5/49). Matches OEM specs and cost me HALF what the bmw stealership wanted. And I'll install and register it myself, so I save myself the labor costs too.
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      12-21-2013, 12:42 PM   #9
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Great info. Im sure I will be in this boat soon
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      12-23-2013, 03:37 AM   #10
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Autozone

Quote:
Originally Posted by signes View Post
BTW, where did you buy the battery?
I ended up buying mine at Autozone. Sears has a battery with almost identical specs (surprise I know since Johnson Controls makes them both!) as well. If I wasn't pressed for time, I probably would've made the 45min trip to buy the East Penn replacement in San Jose.
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      12-23-2013, 03:39 AM   #11
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Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by speedaddictM3 View Post
Great thread. Came just in time, since my 5.5 year old battery is beginning to display mood swings and a mind of its own. I have the same OEM Banner battery as you do. The matching replacement from a nearby Canadian dealer was $360 just for the part, without any labor or registration included. I'd imagine it will cost me more than $500 out the door.


As for battery registration, it's simple. You can download free BMWLogger on a laptop, and buy a K+DCAN cable and do it yourself. The One Stop Electronics cable is about $100. Don't buy the cheapo $20-$35 cables off eBay. I bought one and it failed after using it about a dozen times or so I now have the One Stop Electronics cable on order.

You can also do the coding yourself if you change battery specs also using free software and the cable, but it's a bit more technical and involved. I have no idea how to do it so I'll stick with a battery matching OEM specs.

I really appreciate the info. Hopefully others can follow your advice and save a few hard earned $!
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      12-28-2013, 08:30 AM   #12
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Where is the "like" button! Lol great info OP! Will be needing it soon. Thanks
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      12-29-2013, 04:39 PM   #13
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Thanks! Just what I was looking for!
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      01-01-2014, 07:34 PM   #14
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My Saving Grace (maybe)!

This thread might just be my saving grace in my search for a battery replacement!

I'm currently trying to find a replacement battery for my '07 E92 328i and came across this thread while searching forums around the web. I know I don't have either an E93 or an M3, but after I did some digging I found out that my battery is unusual for a 328i to have (it has 90Ah/900CCA in a hardtop configuration). I've been searching for almost 2 weeks now for someone else who has a battery with similar output to mine with no avail - all other 328s from my model year either have a battery with 570CCA or 720CCA. Also my battery part number isn't listed for a 328i on RealOEM's webpage when I went searching for an OEM replacement.

CDT (or anyone else who followed in his/her footsteps), I would like to follow the route you went in replacing your old battery. I think the original battery in your E93 M3 is similar to the one in my E92 and was hoping you could confirm that with me before I purchase a new battery.

Pic of my battery's specs: http://imgur.com/UwLWrr0

Link for RealOEM's webpage: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...99&hg=61&fg=30


Thanks for your time and Happy New Year everyone!

Last edited by coriolis14; 01-01-2014 at 07:41 PM. Reason: clarifying my thoughts
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      01-03-2014, 08:51 AM   #15
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Replacement battery

Quote:
Originally Posted by coriolis14 View Post
This thread might just be my saving grace in my search for a battery replacement!

I'm currently trying to find a replacement battery for my '07 E92 328i and came across this thread while searching forums around the web. I know I don't have either an E93 or an M3, but after I did some digging I found out that my battery is unusual for a 328i to have (it has 90Ah/900CCA in a hardtop configuration). I've been searching for almost 2 weeks now for someone else who has a battery with similar output to mine with no avail - all other 328s from my model year either have a battery with 570CCA or 720CCA. Also my battery part number isn't listed for a 328i on RealOEM's webpage when I went searching for an OEM replacement.

CDT (or anyone else who followed in his/her footsteps), I would like to follow the route you went in replacing your old battery. I think the original battery in your E93 M3 is similar to the one in my E92 and was hoping you could confirm that with me before I purchase a new battery.

Pic of my battery's specs: http://imgur.com/UwLWrr0

Link for RealOEM's webpage: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...99&hg=61&fg=30


Thanks for your time and Happy New Year everyone!

Honestly my friend, as long as you replace the battery with a like type (AGM vs Flooded Cell), size, and CCA, you should be fine. That's ultimately what I was trying to convey....replace your OEM with a battery with similar specs. You can call down to your local dealer, find out the OEM battery, and pay someone (or have a friend) to register your battery to your car, once it's installed.That is, if you don't want to go the ultimate "discount way!"

You will, in the end, have an OEM battery and save a couple hundred dollars. All the best!
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      01-05-2014, 01:27 PM   #16
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This is very helpful! Thank you OP!

Just a quick question: I was looking at the specs for the H8-AGM from duralast (on the autozone website), and the CCA is 850. Does that really make a difference?
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      01-23-2014, 06:42 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C|3R1C View Post
This is very helpful! Thank you OP!

Just a quick question: I was looking at the specs for the H8-AGM from duralast (on the autozone website), and the CCA is 850. Does that really make a difference?
Not sure if you were looking at the most current model...? My H8-AGM exceeded 900CCA to my knowledge. Realistically, I doubt it would make much difference with a -50CCA differential however, I would personally strive to match or exceed the OEM specs just to be on the safe side. My 2 cents only.
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      01-23-2014, 01:07 PM   #18
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I recently changed my 90ah 900CCA battery with a Sears Diehard 92ah 850CCA battery. It's been fine. I don't notice a difference. But my car is always garaged and I live in CA. So my car doesn't experience the extreme cold start conditions.

Anyway, I already had the One Stop Electronics cable. So I d/l'd the free version of BMW Logger and registered the battery. It was a cinch. Took 2 minutes. The dealers must make a killing on these battery registrations.
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      02-07-2014, 09:37 AM   #19
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I bought my AGM diehard battery at sears for 145 was on sale... then registered mine at EAS... way so much cheaper than the dealer. so if your in SOCAL and want to register your battery i suggest to CALL EAS...

majority of the MY08 replaced theirs early last year or 2 years ago... MY09 should be coming up anytime soon...
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      09-12-2014, 10:56 AM   #20
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Older post, I know, but just wanted to express my thanks to the OP for a helpful and thoughtfully worded post. Just what I needed to know.
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