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      09-08-2011, 11:40 AM   #4401
M_Six
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I like the car. The wheels? Not so much.

Nice shot, though.
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      09-08-2011, 08:07 PM   #4402
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nice! Are those wheel chrome?
yup they are. like the other person said, i don't dig the wheels and prefer matte..but i tihnk it's a nice shot
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      09-08-2011, 08:58 PM   #4403
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iPhone pic from Madison tonight.
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      09-08-2011, 08:58 PM   #4404
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My shot of the night.




(Downtown Manhattan for the 9/11 Memorial for those of you that don't know)
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      09-08-2011, 09:03 PM   #4405
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Nice shot, Crisp. Where were you standing?
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      09-08-2011, 09:14 PM   #4406
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damn thems some bright lights
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      09-08-2011, 09:36 PM   #4407
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Nice shot, Crisp. Where were you standing?
Thank you!


In my bedroom. lol
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      09-08-2011, 10:15 PM   #4408
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Thank you!


In my bedroom. lol
Wow, there's a million dollar view.
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      09-08-2011, 10:32 PM   #4409
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American Pika poses for me at 14,000-ft above sea level on Mount Evans, Colorado. 700mm, hand held:


American pika poses by dcstep, on Flickr

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      09-08-2011, 10:45 PM   #4410
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Quote:
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American Pika poses for me at 14,000-ft above sea level on Mount Evans, Colorado. 700mm, hand held:

[ on Flickr

Dave
What was your exposure, iso, etc. set at?

At 700mm and hand-held, plus that quality.... I would definitely trust you as a surgeon!


Great shot.
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      09-08-2011, 10:58 PM   #4411
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crisp View Post
What was your exposure, iso, etc. set at?

At 700mm and hand-held, plus that quality.... I would definitely trust you as a surgeon!


Great shot.
Thanks.

Well, my hands are indeed pretty steady, BUT image stabilization, ISO 800, f/5.6 and 1/4000th second helped a bunch. I used +1EV to bring out the fur details. The light at 14,000 feet above sea level gives you all kinds of options. My 7D has excellent IQ at ISO 800.

I knew that the shutter speed was up at 1/2000th or higher, but I didn't realize it was 1/4000th until later.

Two fundamental things that I do are, "expose right" to the right of the histogram and don't be afraid of pumping the ISO so that you CAN expose right and still get adequate shutter speeds.

Dave
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      09-09-2011, 08:47 AM   #4412
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcstep View Post
Thanks.

Well, my hands are indeed pretty steady, BUT image stabilization, ISO 800, f/5.6 and 1/4000th second helped a bunch. I used +1EV to bring out the fur details. The light at 14,000 feet above sea level gives you all kinds of options. My 7D has excellent IQ at ISO 800.

I knew that the shutter speed was up at 1/2000th or higher, but I didn't realize it was 1/4000th until later.

Two fundamental things that I do are, "expose right" to the right of the histogram and don't be afraid of pumping the ISO so that you CAN expose right and still get adequate shutter speeds.

Dave
I try and keep my humble xsi under iso 800 at all times. You can really see the grains when you get to 800 or higher with the xsi. Maybe not so much in such a bright setting.
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      09-09-2011, 08:57 AM   #4413
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there's a tremendous difference in ISO performance between the XSi and 5Dii. i'd never hesitate to take my 5Dii to 1600 in almost any circumstance.
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      09-09-2011, 09:17 AM   #4414
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^ I totally agree which is why I didn't mind the price tag
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      09-09-2011, 09:56 AM   #4415
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you're right, the XSI will struggle at 800ISO, however, if you printed an image at that ISO at a normal size, it wouldn't really be noticeable. Computer monitors like to show noise, and it doesn't help that we view the picture 15x bigger on a monitor then we would on a 4x6 sheet.

if you expose to the right like DC says, it tends to make the camera not work as hard and eliminates a bit of the noise. There are also bucket loads more colours in brighter pictures then dark pictures, so there's more room for error in post processing, so if i picture appears to be over exposed, you'd be surprised how perfect the picture can come out after.

so try the 800ISO out a couple more times, but exposer a little bit higher then you normally would, just don't blow out the whites, then you'll never recover colours.

the best thing you can do is turn on "highlight alert" and if it isn't flashing, but things still seem bright, you've got a safe exposure.

you have to depend on post processing more when doing this trick, but many people feel it is worth it. I do it depending on the circumstances of my shooting locations, and i know DC does it on a daily basis.

M6 has been discovering the power of doing this and has been getting great detail with his images.

It's a neat way to sort of side step the shortcomings of high ISO.

Mind you, i do shoot with both the 7D and 5DmkII which both handle ISO fairly well, but what i've learned with them can apply all across the range.
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      09-09-2011, 10:00 AM   #4416
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The1 View Post
you're right, the XSI will struggle at 800ISO, however, if you printed an image at that ISO at a normal size, it wouldn't really be noticeable. Computer monitors like to show noise, and it doesn't help that we view the picture 15x bigger on a monitor then we would on a 4x6 sheet.

if you expose to the right like DC says, it tends to make the camera not work as hard and eliminates a bit of the noise. There are also bucket loads more colours in brighter pictures then dark pictures, so there's more room for error in post processing, so if i picture appears to be over exposed, you'd be surprised how perfect the picture can come out after.

so try the 800ISO out a couple more times, but exposer a little bit higher then you normally would, just don't blow out the whites, then you'll never recover colours.

the best thing you can do is turn on "highlight alert" and if it isn't flashing, but things still seem bright, you've got a safe exposure.

you have to depend on post processing more when doing this trick, but many people feel it is worth it. I do it depending on the circumstances of my shooting locations, and i know DC does it on a daily basis.

M6 has been discovering the power of doing this and has been getting great detail with his images.

It's a neat way to sort of side step the shortcomings of high ISO.

Mind you, i do shoot with both the 7D and 5DmkII which both handle ISO fairly well, but what i've learned with them can apply all across the range.
i beg to differ on the 7D. i had one and it was WAY worse at 800 than the 5Dii was at 1600.
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      09-09-2011, 10:05 AM   #4417
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crisp View Post
I try and keep my humble xsi under iso 800 at all times. You can really see the grains when you get to 800 or higher with the xsi. Maybe not so much in such a bright setting.
The other key is +1EV. When you slightly overexpose in RAW, making certain to not blow out any key highlights, then pull levels down in RAW conversion, you minimize noise and maximize DR. OTOH, if you underexpose (which most people do) and then pull the levels up in RAW conversion, then you add to noise. "Expose Right" is my mantra.

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      09-09-2011, 10:05 AM   #4418
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I agree 100% but the 7D still handles it's ISO very well compared to a lot of models, and that's why i didn't say it handles ISO as well as the 5DII The 5DII can handle about 2x as much ISO as the 7D which is a lot.

but compared to the XSI the 7D is light years ahead for ISO handling still.
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      09-09-2011, 10:14 AM   #4419
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oneintheory View Post
i beg to differ on the 7D. i had one and it was WAY worse at 800 than the 5Dii was at 1600.
Show me. You were probably underexposing.

With both at ISO 1600, I start seeing the difference between my 5D2 and 7D, but I'll still shoot the 7D there in a pinch to get the 7D's superior detail resolution.

Above 1600 the 5D2 really opens up a growing gap and the 7D gets very shaky because the quality of its noise can get very nasty and mosaic-like. I'll shoot the 5D2 at predawn at ISO 6400 to get useable shots.

We should all remember, our non-photographer viewers couldn't give a big rats ass about noise. If the subject is good and interesting and the detail is good, then they'll pretty well ignore noise in the non-subject area of an image. Pixel-peeping at 100% and above is useful, but don't get too caught up in amplified noise that's not really going to show except in the largest prints.

Expose Right.

Dave
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      09-09-2011, 10:25 AM   #4420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The1 View Post
...

the best thing you can do is turn on "highlight alert" and if it isn't flashing, but things still seem bright, you've got a safe exposure. ...
This is a Key to Exposing Right. I use it ALL THE TIME. We had a corporate golf outing this Wednesday and I was shooting in the rain, so I had ISO 800 +1EV and higher or the 7D, BUT I was still checking my "highlight alert" to make sure I didn't go overboard. Some white hats and white golf shoes were "blinking" at me here and there, but the scenes were largely highlight free. After RAW conversion yesterday, the colors and shadow detail are great.

Another thing to remember is, it's OK to blow out a small highlight, so long as its not important. So, the goal is not to totally eliminate highlight alert blinkies, but keep them out of places that really matter in your shot. For instance, the wing of a white bird should not be blinking at you. OTOH, if only the very tips of the wings are blinking, then you're probably ok and you'll see great feather detail in the whole of the bird.

These rules hold for all digital cameras, cheap to expensive, but to take full advantage of them you'll need to shoot in RAW. The out-of-camera jpegs will look washed out.

Dave
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      09-09-2011, 10:43 AM   #4421
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcstep View Post
Show me. You were probably underexposing.

With both at ISO 1600, I start seeing the difference between my 5D2 and 7D, but I'll still shoot the 7D there in a pinch to get the 7D's superior detail resolution.

Above 1600 the 5D2 really opens up a growing gap and the 7D gets very shaky because the quality of its noise can get very nasty and mosaic-like. I'll shoot the 5D2 at predawn at ISO 6400 to get useable shots.

We should all remember, our non-photographer viewers couldn't give a big rats ass about noise. If the subject is good and interesting and the detail is good, then they'll pretty well ignore noise in the non-subject area of an image. Pixel-peeping at 100% and above is useful, but don't get too caught up in amplified noise that's not really going to show except in the largest prints.

Expose Right.

Dave
i don't ever overexpose intentionally. i either expose properly (using histo, not the meter), or slightly under. that has a lot to do with me working with lights, though. if you overexpose with those, it's a lot harder to bring back detail. i'd show you shots from the 7D, but i sold it 8 months ago and that's a few lightroom catalogs back. if i ever get around to it, i'll post it.
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      09-09-2011, 11:07 AM   #4422
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great shots everyone..

an old picture i am relinking..


flashing lights by thomasxlin, on Flickr
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