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      07-18-2016, 09:57 PM   #1
M3amigos
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Limp Mode - SES Codes.

Need some help with my 2008 E93 6MT. Currently has 93k miles, no major issues so far but recently its been going into limp mode upon a cold start up several times over the last few weeks. The SES light is usually accompanied by a yellow BRAKE symbol as well as a ROLL OVER warning symbol, see pic attached. If I attempt to drive it in this condition, theres little power and the rev limit is around 4k. Most times I can just shut down the engine and restart it then it all goes away, but today it repeated half a dozen times in a row. I let the engine warm up for 10 mins and then restarted, limp mode went away but I got a permanent SES light. When I got home, I read the codes with BMW logger and got a bunch of random codes, most of which were unknown, see attached. I cleared the codes, restarted a few times and none came back, but I'm sure I'll see the limp mode again in a few days.

I've tried to search for the codes online but have not been able to decode them. Does anyone have any ideas of what could be causing this and how can I troubleshoot further? I am handy with electronics so I have no problem digging through wiring and testing circuits. Thanks in advance for any feedback.
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      07-18-2016, 10:00 PM   #2
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Codes...
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      07-18-2016, 10:18 PM   #3
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Found this in a another thread, how can I test/check to see if my TVAs are bad?

"I have 08 E92 M3 with 63k miles. Im experiencing the same issues, especially when the car is warmed (ex a short trip to the store). Then when im trying to start the car, it throws Engine Malfunction, Increase Emission, DSC ... etc. Turn the car off, restart it, after once, twice or sometimes 5-6 times then all those errors disappear and the car operate like normal, as if nothing has happened.

I did get the latest SW updated loaded, did not fix the problem.

My fault codes from the diagnostic reads:

2B2D Throttle Valves, initialization, bank 2
CDC0 Throttle-valve actuator CAN message, bank 2
2B21 Throttle valve actuator pre-drive check bank 1
2B15 Throttle-valve actuator, governor monitoring, bank 1
2B22 Throttle valve actuator pre drive check bank 2

From a quick quote, $2k for parts, $200-$400 for labor. T_T"
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      07-19-2016, 12:28 AM   #4
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Found some additional info on the codes after some searching...

278D,4,Temperature sensor, radiator outlet (or Generator communication)
2B2D,1,Throttle Valves, initialization, bank 2
CDC0,4,Throttle-valve actuator CAN message, bank 2
2B57,4,Motor emergency programm activated
2B59,4,Coolant thermostat, monitoring
2B15,1,Throttle-valve actuator, governor monitoring, bank 1
27C4,8,Main relay (or Info tank empty at fault entry or environment pressure Plausibility)
2B21,8,Throttle valve actuator pre-drive check bank 1
27BB,1,Fuel system, lambda/charge plausibility, bank 2
2B22,2,Throttle valve actuator pre drive check bank 2
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      07-27-2016, 04:18 AM   #5
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Looks like you have quite a bit of work ahead of you if you plan on doing it yourself. I'd say focus on the throttle body actuators...either replace the gears and hope it works or pay for new ones $$$$. While you're doing that, the thermostat should be replaced (sensor as well?).
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      07-27-2016, 08:22 PM   #6
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I have a set of odometer gears and mosfets that I'll try to swap this weekend, fingers crossed.

Anyone know how to test the coolant temp sensor?
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      07-28-2016, 06:30 PM   #7
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I'm actually repairing my bank 1 TBA as well. As for the thermostat sensor, in my opinion I'd recommend to just replace it since it's around $30. I currently replaced my thermostat (but no sensor) since I was having an issue P0128 with the car taking a long time to warm up.
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      08-01-2016, 07:48 AM   #8
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Update: So I installed the new gears, process went pretty smoothly. I swapped circuit boards from one TA to the other and installed them in the car. I cleared the codes and adaptations and fired it up. The car started no problem the first try, but after restarting a few times, the codes and limp mode came back.

Now the interesting thing was that it was still calling out bank 2 after swapping the circuit boards, and I surely thiught it would have switched sides. I thought the motor could maybe be the culprit and I hoped to find a replacement, but after some extensive research online, I found that no one has sourced a replacement.

So my plan was going to be to clear the codes and reatart a few more times, but in the process of troubleshooting I found myself with a dead/low battery. I figured it was normal since the car sat for a week and with all the TA testing, the car didnt have a chance to recharge. Anyhow I started to monotor my battery and alternator voltage and realized that the battery was around 11V and when started, it would only charge at around 12.5V when fully loaded. On the bright side, after recharging the battery for a bit, i cleared codes again and they didnt come back as long as the battery voltage was >12V when starting.

So I took the car to two parts stores to have the battery and Alternator tested. Both stores confirmed that the battery was good but the alternator was bad and was not fully recharging my battery. I picked up an OEM reman from AutoZone for $170, installed it along with new belts, and now voltages are back to normal, around 14V at idle.

Since then, I havent seen any codes or limp mode, so I'm crossing my fingers and hoping that it holds up for a while. I'm really glad to have escaped a complete TA failure with just a gear rebuild and alternator replacement. I'll post an update if anything changes.
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      08-01-2016, 11:08 AM   #9
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OP, I can't speak for the E9X M, but for the E46M all manner of 'reman' alternators are cow dung and fail within a few months
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      08-01-2016, 05:19 PM   #10
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I'm not too worried, it meets the oem spec and comes with a warranty. Plus, its worth taking the gamble at that price.
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      08-01-2016, 05:59 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3amigos View Post
I'm not too worried, it meets the oem spec and comes with a warranty. Plus, its worth taking the gamble at that price.
It's a toss up between the gears and the electronics.. I've seen gears replaced that were worn only to see the same thing happen again. If you have one with bad electronics and one with bad gears, you can easily switch the electronics portion so you have one good working actuator.
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      08-04-2016, 03:06 PM   #12
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Finished Bank 1 TBA and it works, but now I'm on to Bank 2 TBA. I too have a battery issue so I charged up the battery, but when I put the repaired TBA from Bank 1 into Bank 2, nothing happened. I then reseated the electric connectors relating to Bank 2 TBA and voila! it worked when I did the manual test.

I'm going to go ahead with the gear repair for TBA 2, but I'm suspecting that I might have a board issue in which case I'll just outright buy a new TBA rather than attempt to replace the MOSFETs.
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      08-05-2016, 07:37 AM   #13
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You may get lucky with just the gears as I did. When you test the rebuild, be sure to warm up the car for a while and let the battery charge up, then clear the codes and adaptations if possible and restart several times. Inspect the board very closely to see if you notice any swelling or discoloration of any components. While you are in there, you can test the mosfets with a multimeter, just google the directions. If one was fried it would likely be very noticeable. If you have the time, it wouldn't be too diffucult to swap out a bad mosfet if you have a good soldering station (got mine for $40 on amazon). I was very hesitant to throw down 1 or 2 grand for new TAs when there was a chance I could fix it myself. Problem was my M is my daily driver, but luckily I was able to borrow a car for two weeks so I had time to tinker. Best of luck.

On a related note, once I replaced my worn gears, I was amazed how much smoother the throttle response was, especially in 1st gear. I never would be able to crawl around in 1st, especially when the car was cold, as it would jerk and buck like crazy. Now 1st gear is super smooth and even shifting is much smoother. If anyone had 50k or more on the original actuators, I'd swap those gears for this reason alone.
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Last edited by M3amigos; 08-05-2016 at 07:44 AM.
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      08-29-2016, 11:45 PM   #14
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Codes and limp mode are are back intermittently just about a month after my TA gear and alternator replacement. Will report my findings once I have time to troubleshoot the issue again.
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      09-13-2016, 12:57 AM   #15
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Quick follow up to keep the thread up to date, I swapped circuit boards from side to side and the codes followed. I went ahead and replaced the 5 mosfets on the bad bank and all is well again. We'll see how long it holds up this time, but I'm really trying to avoid having to invest a ton of money in repairs.
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