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      05-27-2012, 12:04 AM   #1
Shosholoza
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Installing Cantrell's new brake cooling system

I did the job by myself, with the car on jackstands, its took 4.5 hours.

The kit arrived complete: backing plates, ducts, 2.5 inch ducting, hose clamps, and various 4mm allen head screws, nuts and spacers.
http://www.cantrellmotorsport.com/in...35:latest-news

I apologize in advance for my poor picture handling skills - I have numbered them, but it didn't work. The pic sequence is screwed up

Installation:
1. Remove the entire undertray
1.1 Remove all the black self tapping screws from under the front bumper and on the wheel liners
1.2 Remove the 4 10mm nuts with washers - 2 each side. These attach to the hangers I will refer to later
1.3 Remove the 3 10mm screws at the back of the undertray
1.4 Now finangle the under tray out - careful, the washers from the hangers will fall out
1.5 Remove the hangers - twist and move towards the front - pic1
2. Partially reassemble the under tray
2.1 Re-attach the two end pieces - pic3
2.2 Re-attach the hangers to the under tray - pic2
3. Cut the under tray
3.1 The holes for the ducts - pic4
3.2 The rear exit for the ducting - pic5, 6, 7, 8
4. Fit the front ducts and ducting
4.1 Cut the ducting to length - I used 36 inched each side
4.2 Insert the front ducts - pic 9, 10, 11
4.3 Undo the self tapping screw thats close to the duct - if you don't, the ducting will snag on it
4.4 Run the ducting through the hanger wires
5. Reinstall the undertray
5.1 This is a PITA! Lots of finagling needed. Don't tighten the screws until all are in place
5.2 I found it helped to undo the two higher screws on the wheel liner, so that I could get my hand in to attach the hangers
6. Remove the brake caliper and OE backing plate
6.1 18mm socket for the two booths holding the caliper. Tie it up with a cable tie to one of the coil springs. Do not let it hang by the brake line.
6.2 10mm socket for the 3 bolts holding the OE baking plate
7. Attach the ducting and Cantrell backing plate
7.2 Attach the ducting now - you will not be able to do it once the backing plate is attached. No fancy routing required - directly to the backing plate in front of the control arm. based on forum feedback from Sleepless and Colin Cantrell
7.3 Attach the backing plate - the small spacer is in the front, larger one in the rear
7.4 I used 2 cable ties to keep the ducting located. The pics show full lock left and right
7.6 Pics 12, 13, 14, 15, 16
8. Reattach the brake calipers

I will be testing the setup at Sebring in the heat in 2 weeks time




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      05-27-2012, 12:07 AM   #2
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Nice detailed post!

Will this work with Brembo BBK 380mm?
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      05-27-2012, 12:26 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biglare View Post
Nice detailed post!

Will this work with Brembo BBK 380mm?
Per the link to the kit, yes.
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      05-27-2012, 12:34 AM   #4
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Nice write up!
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      05-27-2012, 01:15 PM   #5
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rubbing? My 2.5" hose setup is routed almost exactly the same way and rubs past about .8-1 turn of the wheel either way. I may try to zip it to the sway next. And this is with OEM 19's and 245's.
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      05-27-2012, 01:37 PM   #6
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I have just put the wheels on a notice that they do rub at full lock. Is this a problem on the track, or just on the street?
Sleepless routed his between the front control arm and sway bar, and is going to change because there is too much suspension rubbing against the tubing
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      05-27-2012, 02:45 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shosholoza View Post
I have just put the wheels on a notice that they do rub at full lock. Is this a problem on the track, or just on the street?
Sleepless routed his between the front control arm and sway bar, and is going to change because there is too much suspension rubbing against the tubing
Here is my fix for now. I believe the rubbing will only occur at parking speed - that's the only time I use full lock.

I have created a "sleeve" of heavy duty zip ties to protect the tire and ducting during slow turns. We will see how its works...
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      05-27-2012, 02:50 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shosholoza View Post
I have just put the wheels on a notice that they do rub at full lock. Is this a problem on the track, or just on the street?
Sleepless routed his between the front control arm and sway bar, and is going to change because there is too much suspension rubbing against the tubing
Shouldn't be a problem on track but definitely is on the street. Just after a hundred miles of street driving mine are showing quite a lot of rub marks/slight damage. I am going to try to flatten it as you did, or route against sway. Bummer there isn't room for even a 2.5" w/o rubbing.

My guess is that your solution will prevent rubbing except in parking lots, and the speed is low enough there luckily to avoid major issues. Obviously a tire rubbing a hose at 100 mph is very bad news for the tire and the hose both, but 10mph in a parking lot shouldn't be a huge issue especially since the hose is protected by zip ties for now.
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      05-29-2012, 09:50 AM   #9
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What about using some gas dryer/range hood venting pipe (not the flexible stuff for lint, the one for exhause heat) and make it into an oval over that section? They make it so you buy it in flat form and roll it and it's self locking to make a tube. Home Depot carries it.
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      05-29-2012, 10:01 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Car54 View Post
What about using some gas dryer/range hood venting pipe (not the flexible stuff for lint, the one for exhause heat) and make it into an oval over that section? They make it so you buy it in flat form and roll it and it's self locking to make a tube. Home Depot carries it.
Interesting solution. I have some silicone hose from aircraft spruce that is really rigid and hard to compress, but is willing to bend of course, and couldn't ovalize it much at all. My setup now looks pretty similar to OP's revised setup, and I had a friend check out the clearance as I turned the wheel. It rubs right around 1.1 turns either way.

Won't be a problem on track though, I'll just remove the hose after the track day and have empty ducts til the next DE. I don't think it's a good idea to force lots of air and road debris to your brakes on the street anyway, I'll at least tape the ducts off in the front if I find a way to leave the hoses on.
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      05-29-2012, 10:38 AM   #11
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Nice detailed write up and pics In to hear more impressions after living with it for awhile and whether the rubbing is an issue or just a nuisance.
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      05-29-2012, 11:38 AM   #12
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A quick disconnect at the inner fender and the rotor backing plate might be a good solution for a street/track car.
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      05-29-2012, 03:39 PM   #13
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I'm going to see if I can source a 2.5inch plug of some sort to cover the intake duct for street driving.
Removing the ducting requires complete disassembly. PITA!
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      05-29-2012, 06:42 PM   #14
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Oh, nice write up!! Thanks for the pictures and the details!

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      05-29-2012, 09:12 PM   #15
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Would a 2.5" from inlet to fender liner, then 2" to backing plate work? Probably better than no ducts at all.
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      05-29-2012, 11:12 PM   #16
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Another option for stopping street debris is to attach some mesh screen to the back of the duct before attaching the ducting
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      05-31-2012, 08:13 AM   #17
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Thats a really good idea, Im going to have a look into it....Cheers!!
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      06-05-2012, 04:18 PM   #18
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I had Cantrell replace the hose while they were upgrading my car to the final backing plates and we routed it the "normal" way which of course has the tire rubbing issues. They put some "spacers" on the steering rack arms to reduct the turning radius and I have not tire/hose rubbing at full lock. I like this better than both hearing the rubbing and wear and tear. The reduced turning radius is not a big deal; I've driven unmodified cars that have about the same radius.

Anyway, an decent alternative.
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      06-05-2012, 08:07 PM   #19
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I just got back from VIR a few days ago with a similar setup using 2.5" hoses and simple aircraft flanges and had no fade, although I didn't get a chance for definitive data. I am thinking of running a session with tape over the ducts and then open and compare temps, but nothing can really measure 1200+ temps other than expensive temp paint.

As to the rubbing issue: I have chosen to simply remove the hoses for street driving. Since I remove the PFC's anyway it really isn't much more labor to just pull the underpanel and unclamp the hose and pull it out. Mine rubs past 1.1-1.2 turns either way when the hoses are on.
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      06-05-2012, 10:20 PM   #20
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Just received mine. Very quick shipping, especially crossing the border!

Won't be able to install for a couple of weeks, but thanks for all the tips guys!! Keep them coming!!
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