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      05-14-2012, 08:56 PM   #23
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Probably cross threaded on the way in the last time and now this is the first time they're pulling it out. You're lucky you got your first service done there.
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      02-25-2016, 02:35 AM   #24
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So i was just changing my oil just now...and I am 99% sure that the oil pan threading is messed up....previous to me changing the oil...I had it done at an independent shop...

Looking into the oil pan threading...looks like there is a chunk missing and i can even feel it with my pinky...When I had taken the bolt out, a whole bunch of metal particles and ) shaped metal peices had come out.

Any possability I can fix this without needing a new oil pan?
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      02-25-2016, 03:43 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsr552 View Post
So i was just changing my oil just now...and I am 99% sure that the oil pan threading is messed up....previous to me changing the oil...I had it done at an independent shop...

Looking into the oil pan threading...looks like there is a chunk missing and i can even feel it with my pinky...When I had taken the bolt out, a whole bunch of metal particles and ) shaped metal peices had come out.

Any possability I can fix this without needing a new oil pan?
I would definitely remove the oil pan and then check to see if the current one is salvageable. You might get lucky if you are able to rethread the current hole.
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      02-25-2016, 10:35 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Groundpilot View Post
Thats why i hate taking the car to the dealer. Even for a simple thing like an oil change. But when i take it in, i always ask my SA to put an experienced tech om my car. They usually respond ''ofcource, if you prefer so''. That tells me that they let their novice techs to do the ''simple'' job like an oil change.
I am also traumatized at the idea of the dealer doing my warranty service.
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      02-25-2016, 06:20 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsr552 View Post
So i was just changing my oil just now...and I am 99% sure that the oil pan threading is messed up....previous to me changing the oil...I had it done at an independent shop...

Looking into the oil pan threading...looks like there is a chunk missing and i can even feel it with my pinky...When I had taken the bolt out, a whole bunch of metal particles and ) shaped metal peices had come out.

Any possability I can fix this without needing a new oil pan?
Not good. You could put in a time-sert I suppose, though the pan is pretty thin.

Might as well take the pan off, put in new rod bearings <ducking and covering>, get the pan fixed (welded, drilled, retapped) if possible or put a new pan on there. Sux but I'm not sure a time-sert is going to hold here (or heli-coil).
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      02-26-2016, 01:30 PM   #28
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I had this happen on my first oil change upon purchasing my car. The dealer that did the oil change before I purchased it must have cross-threaded the bolt going in. I used a shallow time-sert specifically for this type of application. It also had a tapered edge to create a seal with the pan. It allows you to use a new oem bolt. I have about 10k miles on the car and two oil changes since then with no seepage whatsoever.

Here is the kit I used, there is an identical kit with deeper inserts that you do not want to use.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o09_s00
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      02-26-2016, 06:17 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spoolin View Post
I had this happen on my first oil change upon purchasing my car. The dealer that did the oil change before I purchased it must have cross-threaded the bolt going in. I used a shallow time-sert specifically for this type of application. It also had a tapered edge to create a seal with the pan. It allows you to use a new oem bolt. I have about 10k miles on the car and two oil changes since then with no seepage whatsoever.

Here is the kit I used, there is an identical kit with deeper inserts that you do not want to use.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o09_s00
Nice! So you have four of the inserts left -- the line forms behind the OP!
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      06-24-2016, 03:15 AM   #30
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How's the time sert holding up for you guys?

Had one done to my car but it's still leaking a bit over a few nights pretty slow leak but still leaking.
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      06-24-2016, 08:53 AM   #31
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if anyone needs a used pan pm me
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      06-24-2016, 05:39 PM   #32
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I've seen half a dozen stripped drain plugs on these engines, never had one I couldn't Time-Sert. (Heli-coil is a different story- only try to use Time-Sert)

The thread repairs are permanent if done correctly, which isn't difficult. I've never had one come back leaking or pulled.
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      07-07-2016, 01:43 AM   #33
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My oil pan was stripped and a repair was attempted. But a slow leak continues.

I drained the oil and ensure that the shop did do a sert repair, I refilled it and torqued it to spec. The leak was slower but still leaking.

Thinking that the leak was the drain was caused by the reuse of the crush washer, so I drained it and torqued it to spec i.e. 18 ft-lbs.

Am I out of options other than an oil pan swap? or can I get the time sert removed and re-installed. I don't know if the mechanic used any thread sealant / adhesive when they fastened the sert.
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      07-07-2016, 09:39 AM   #34
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Bought my car used, first oil change found out the rear drain plug had the threads stripped out. I used a heli coil to repair damage threads in pan. Installed new Bmw drain plug and crush washer. It's been 6 oil changes later and it's all still holding up well. FYI... When installing a heli coil, If it is not installed correctly it will leak oil. it has to be perfectly straight in order for the crush washer to be 100% functional and seal.
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      07-07-2016, 02:16 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Get lit
Bought my car used, first oil change found out the rear drain plug had the threads stripped out. I used a heli coil to repair damage threads in pan. Installed new Bmw drain plug and crush washer. It's been 6 oil changes later and it's all still holding up well. FYI... When installing a heli coil, If it is not installed correctly it will leak oil. it has to be perfectly straight in order for the crush washer to be 100% functional and seal.
Thanks for that info.

Seems like my time sert was somehow installed incorrectly. Can I get this time sert repaired? Perhaps put a bigger time sert in there?
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      07-15-2016, 12:01 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garmz View Post
Thanks for that info.

Seems like my time sert was somehow installed incorrectly. Can I get this time sert repaired? Perhaps put a bigger time sert in there?
First, there are two types of common thread repairs- Time-Sert, which looks like a solid threaded sleeve, and Heli-Coil, which looks like a collapsed coil spring. So make sure which one your pan has installed.

Due to the thin pan, the preferred method is a Time-Sert. It grips Better since it's a solid sleeve and is not as prone to thread leakage over time. Either method should use a thread sealant (some use red loctite) on the external threads of the thread repair. Another option is to use an oversize crush washer with your existing repair, which if the outer diameter of the new washer is large enough will still seal against the original oil pan surface. Shouldn't need a "larger" repair.
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      07-16-2016, 12:33 AM   #37
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Thanks so much for the tips.

I actually ended up getting a new washer and oil plug.

Torque it to spec but it still was leaking so I hand tightened it some more. Now it doesn't seem like it's leaking. Even after a spirited drive =)
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      07-19-2016, 04:30 AM   #38
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My turn to try this Time-Sert stuff, sigh. Definitely stripped the pan changing the oil. Must have cross-threaded it, somehow, stripped at 8 NM of torque
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      07-19-2016, 11:08 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redpriest
My turn to try this Time-Sert stuff, sigh. Definitely stripped the pan changing the oil. Must have cross-threaded it, somehow, stripped at 8 NM of torque
Hand tightened first then use tools.

That's what I am going to do moving forward
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      07-22-2016, 04:02 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garmz View Post
Hand tightened first then use tools.

That's what I am going to do moving forward
Seems to be holding just fine, despite my noob repair
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      07-22-2016, 04:03 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redpriest
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garmz View Post
Hand tightened first then use tools.

That's what I am going to do moving forward
Seems to be holding just fine, despite my noob repair
Wow you did it yourself?
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      07-22-2016, 09:01 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garmz View Post
Wow you did it yourself?
Yeah. I was resigned to put on the tow truck if I couldn't get it to hold. What was scary was that an entire portion of the thread wall had collapsed so there was a hole that you could see into the oil pan.

Had it on jackstands, and trying to center the drill in the pan, while holding it steady with only an inch of clearance on the other end of the drill was kind of scary.

Did the best I could to get the aluminum flakes out of the pan. I lubricated the drill and tap with 10w60. Time-Sert recommends 30wt oil but I didn't have it on hand, nor does the kit I ordered actually come with their specified oil.

Cold 10w60 is kind of syrupy, so I think it trapped a lot of the particles. I backed out the drill a couple times to clean out flakes, and went really slow. My drill doesn't have a lot of torque, so I ended up hand screwing the drill with a tap wrench. Ended up littering my garage floor with tons of aluminum flakes!

My supposed 1/2" inch tap wrench didn't fit half of the pieces included with the kit, so I had to improvise with a socket wrench conversion piece, .

Counterbore was kind of hard too on the drill, ended up doing that my hand as well. The centering piece that they give you was hard to set flush whilst tapping the bored out hole, lol.

I used blue oil resistant loctite on the outer threads of the bushing they give you to set the piece. Rest of it was easy.

I put 2 liters of 10w60 oil into the engine to flush out whatever aluminum shavings I missed and let that drain overnight.

Best I can tell from looking at the oil hydraulic diagram for the S65, the next stop from the sump inlet is the oil filter, so hopefully that traps anything else. That made me feel better when I went to crank the engine.

I did a bunch of spirited driving, bouncing off the red line at least a dozen times since then. Seems to be holding strong! Engine hasn't seized yet.
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      07-22-2016, 11:00 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redpriest
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garmz View Post
Wow you did it yourself?
Yeah. I was resigned to put on the tow truck if I couldn't get it to hold. What was scary was that an entire portion of the thread wall had collapsed so there was a hole that you could see into the oil pan.

Had it on jackstands, and trying to center the drill in the pan, while holding it steady with only an inch of clearance on the other end of the drill was kind of scary.

Did the best I could to get the aluminum flakes out of the pan. I lubricated the drill and tap with 10w60. Time-Sert recommends 30wt oil but I didn't have it on hand, nor does the kit I ordered actually come with their specified oil.

Cold 10w60 is kind of syrupy, so I think it trapped a lot of the particles. I backed out the drill a couple times to clean out flakes, and went really slow. My drill doesn't have a lot of torque, so I ended up hand screwing the drill with a tap wrench. Ended up littering my garage floor with tons of aluminum flakes!

My supposed 1/2" inch tap wrench didn't fit half of the pieces included with the kit, so I had to improvise with a socket wrench conversion piece, .

Counterbore was kind of hard too on the drill, ended up doing that my hand as well. The centering piece that they give you was hard to set flush whilst tapping the bored out hole, lol.

I used blue oil resistant loctite on the outer threads of the bushing they give you to set the piece. Rest of it was easy.

I put 2 liters of 10w60 oil into the engine to flush out whatever aluminum shavings I missed and let that drain overnight.

Best I can tell from looking at the oil hydraulic diagram for the S65, the next stop from the sump inlet is the oil filter, so hopefully that traps anything else. That made me feel better when I went to crank the engine.

I did a bunch of spirited driving, bouncing off the red line at least a dozen times since then. Seems to be holding strong! Engine hasn't seized yet.
Nice!!! Like finding $1800 on the ground.

Good you don't have to spend money to replace the oil pan =)
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      07-22-2016, 11:13 PM   #44
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went to do the first oil change on my 2012 e92, bought it a week ago and long behold, the rear drain plug came out cross threaded. we managed to helicoil the plug back in with locktight but I'm sure I need a new pan now. might as well change rod bearings while I replace the pan as my temp needle is consistently past the half way mark and goes up from there slightly during spirited driving. smh....
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