Torin T43004 jack stands w/aluminum blocks for BMW jack points

[Fred@ReverseLogic]

Reverse Logic Limited now offers Torin T43004 aluminum jack stands with jack stand blocks which will fit directly into the jack points on BMW chassis. The jack stands will also fit MINI, late model Mercedes-Benz, and Nissan GT-R jack points.

The price of $109.95/pair includes shipping to any destination in the USA. For forum members who already have a set of the Torin (or equivalent) aluminum jack stands we also sell the powder coated aluminum blocks separately with M10x1.5 bolts for $31.95/pair including shipping. It's necessary to drill a 10mm hole into the saddle of the jack stands to use the blocks.

Supporting the car from inside the vehicle jack pockets avoids damaging the jack points on BMW, Mercedes and Nissan GT-R chassis which have integrated vehicle jack pockets in the jack points.

[Fred@ReverseLogic]

Jack stand manufacturers pretty much recommend using jack stands in pairs. Not one, not three, not four, just two.

Chock the two wheels that remain on the ground.

Use the jack stands in the lowest possible position for a given job. The lower they are the more stable they are.

After the blocks are installed it's easier to raise the jack stands into the jack points then it is to lower the car onto the jack stands. Actually, you have to do a little of both. If you raise the car high, and position the jack stands with say 3" between the jack stand saddle and the jack point, it's unlikely that the jack points will line up with the block on the jack stand as the car is lowered. It's much better to raise the jack stands to within a 1/4" of the bottom of the jack point pocket and then just lower the car that final 1/4". You may need to try this a few times before you get the car positioned to the correct height. The jack stands have to be low enough to clear the rim of the jack point and then they can only be adjusted in 25mm increments.

The Torin T43004 jack stand is a little more flexible than other similar jack stand models since the bolt attaching the outer tube to the base does not interfere with the inner tube. In effect there is one more lower position on the Torin brand. Since it can be used without the locking pins. This comes in handy when you are raising the jack stand into the jack point pocket. It means that you can use the stands with the pin in the lowest position whereas the other brands of these aluminum jack stands can only be used in the second lowest position.

[Fred@ReverseLogic]

I added pricing options to ship the modified jack stands to Canada and other International destinations. Delivered price to Canada is $132.95 and any location other than Canada and the USA is $147.95. International orders are shipped via USPS Priority Mail.

[surlynkid]

what is the footprint on those? i have jackstands ranging from 3 tons to 12 tons, and the footprint on yours looks small. without square pyramid sides, they seem unstable to me. what keeps the block in the saddle once lifted? is there a pin on the bottom like 4x4 truck lift blocks.

[Fred@ReverseLogic]

The base on the Torin jack stands is 7.5" point to point. The block is bolted to the saddle with an M10x1.5 bolt which is 55mm long. It come up through the bottom of the saddle which is about 35mm thick including the stem pressed into the inner post. I also have an alternative set up with a headless bolt that allows the blocks to be easily removed. The ears on the saddle keep the blocks from spinning.

Not sure what you mean by "pin on the bottle". There is a pin that locks the inner tube into one of five positions 25mm apart. Normally, you would be able to use the jack stands at the lowest two settings. I have been using the jack stands since 2007 and stability is not an issue when used in pairs.

Originally Posted by surlynkid

what is the footprint on those? i have jackstands ranging from 1.5 tons to 6 tons, and the footprint on yours looks small. without square pyramid sides, they seem unstable to me. what keeps the block in the saddle once lifted? is there a pin on the bottle like 4x4 truck lift blocks.

[surlynkid]

Originally Posted by Fred@ReverseLogic

The base on the Torin jack stands is 7.5" point to point. The block is bolted to the saddle with an M10x1.5 bolt which is 55mm long. It come up through the bottom of the saddle which is about 35mm thick including the stem pressed into the inner post. I also have an alternative set up with a headless bolt that allows the blocks to be easily removed. The ears on the saddle keep the blocks from spinning.

Not sure what you mean by "pin on the bottle". There is a pin that locks the inner tube into one of five positions 25mm apart. Normally, you would be able to use the jack stands at the lowest two settings. I have been using the jack stands since 2007 and stability is not an issue when used in pairs.

sorry - typo. i meant pin on the bottom of the block to lock it in place on the saddle, but you explained that a 10mm bolt is doing it which is better than a pin.

[Fred@ReverseLogic]

I meant to attach this photo to my last post. The head of the bolt just clears the top hole in the inner tube.

Originally Posted by surlynkid

sorry - typo. i meant pin on the bottom of the block to lock it in place on the saddle, but you explained that a 10mm bolt is doing it which is better than a pin.

[MiamiE93Vert]

Just ordered the pads with headless bolts to attach to my Torin Jacks; nice solution for the jacks!

[Fred@ReverseLogic]

Thank you for your order. You should receive the blocks with headless bolts in a couple of days.

The bolts are basically M10 slotted set screws that are 40mm long. 12mm of the length is threaded leaving a 28mm long pin to hold the blocks in place.

It's not necessary to drill the hole all the way through the saddle when using the headless bolts. It helps to have a drill press.

Originally Posted by MiamiE93Vert

Just ordered the pads with headless bolts to attach to my Torin Jacks; nice solution for the jacks!

[Geauxkart]

I have used my jack stands and lifting pad a few times now. Great stuff!
Thanks Fred!

[Fred@ReverseLogic]

Thanks for taking the time to comment on the jack stands. Did you find the instructions helpful? Could you share any tips on positioning the stands?

Originally Posted by Geauxkart

I have used my jack stands and lifting pad a few times now. Great stuff!
Thanks Fred!

[MMME30W]

Damn those look nice!

[Fred@ReverseLogic]

This is what the pin looks like on the blocks that are easily removed from the saddle. These seem to be gaining in popularity over the version that is attached to the saddle with a bolt coming up through the inner tube as shown in the earlier posts to this thread.

It's not easy to find the M10 headless bolts. I have to import them from Germany.

[Geauxkart]

Originally Posted by Fred@ReverseLogic

Thanks for taking the time to comment on the jack stands. Did you find the instructions helpful? Could you share any tips on positioning the stands?

Yup! Using the standard cheap HF aluminum race jack... Z4M Coupe
1 - Raise one side of the car, rear side jacking point. Insert front jack stand, same side - it will go in.
2 - Repeat on side 2
3- Front end is in the air now, jack the rear center point, and place rear jack stands. Make sure when jacking the rear center point that the jack rolls smoothly backwards, or you could tip the front stands - maybe - I didn't try too hard.
4 - If more front clearance is required, jack the front center point, and raise both jack stands in the front.

Wiggle the car, and make sure it's solid before hopping under there. 5 minutes and seems pretty repeatable.

[Kgolf31]

Originally Posted by Geauxkart

Yup! Using the standard cheap HF aluminum race jack... Z4M Coupe
1 - Raise one side of the car, rear side jacking point. Insert front jack stand, same side - it will go in.
2 - Repeat on side 2
3- Front end is in the air now, jack the rear center point, and place rear jack stands. Make sure when jacking the rear center point that the jack rolls smoothly backwards, or you could tip the front stands - maybe - I didn't try too hard.
4 - If more front clearance is required, jack the front center point, and raise both jack stands in the front.

Wiggle the car, and make sure it's solid before hopping under there. 5 minutes and seems pretty repeatable.

Where is the rear central jacking point? I never found mine..

[Geauxkart]

Where the diagonal braces attach by the diff, those bolt heads are the point. Watch the fins on the diff.

[MiamiE93Vert]

Originally Posted by Fred@ReverseLogic

Thank you for your order. You should receive the blocks with headless bolts in a couple of days.

The bolts are basically M10 slotted set screws that are 40mm long. 12mm of the length is threaded leaving a 28mm long pin to hold the blocks in place.

It's not necessary to drill the hole all the way through the saddle when using the headless bolts. It helps to have a drill press.

I don't have a drill press and was just planning on drilling through the saddle (I am just a weekend warrior doing a few track days a year, the jacks will not get heavy use); I got the headless bolts for ease of removal in case I needed the jacks for my wife's SUV. Will this be ok?

[Fred@ReverseLogic]

The visible part of the saddle is about 11mm thick. There is a stem on the bottom of the saddle that is pressed into the inner tube. The total saddle thickness is about 40mm. You need to drill a 10mm diameter hole 30mm deep in order to accommodate the pin on the block.

It's possible to do that with a hand held power drill, but, it will be difficult to keep the drill centered and the hole perpendicular to the saddle surface. Not to mention that a 10mm drill is larger than the typical 3/8" drill chuck that you probably have kicking around the house.

You really should try to find someone with a drill press to drill the holes. If you are unable to get help locally then you are welcome to send me just the inner tubes and I will drill the holes for you and return the tubes for a small charge to cover the return shipping. If you have the newer style jack stands with captive inner tubes I will explain how to separate the inner and outer tubes so you don't have to ship the outer tubes.

Originally Posted by MiamiE93Vert

I don't have a drill press and was just planning on drilling through the saddle (I am just a weekend warrior doing a few track days a year, the jacks will not get heavy use); I got the headless bolts for ease of removal in case I needed the jacks for my wife's SUV. Will this be ok?

[SuitedPair]

Just ordered the stands with blocks and some race ramps to get to that central jacking point. Should make life easier.

[Fred@ReverseLogic]

Have you had a chance to try out the jack stands and Trak-Jax?

Originally Posted by SuitedPair

Just ordered the stands with blocks and some race ramps to get to that central jacking point. Should make life easier.

[SuitedPair]

Originally Posted by Fred@ReverseLogic

Have you had a chance to try out the jack stands and Trak-Jax?

Using them all this weekend... Gotta bleed brakes, change pads and wheels... Will post review...

[Fred@ReverseLogic]

Looking forward to seeing your review...

Originally Posted by SuitedPair

Using them all this weekend... Gotta bleed brakes, change pads and wheels... Will post review...