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      03-23-2012, 09:14 PM   #1
youngvedder
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exhaust bolts?

hey all,

about to tackle a akra install, and took a peak under the car tonight at the bolts right at the header/cat...look a bit different than I am use too...what type are they and size? (6 point star I believe)

any insight is appreciated!

Yv
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      03-23-2012, 09:31 PM   #2
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no, the actual bolt that holds the header to the exhaust...two bolts on each side

thx
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      03-23-2012, 09:37 PM   #3
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like this... http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/102855_x800.jpg
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      03-23-2012, 10:43 PM   #4
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That fastener type is called an External Torx and the size is E12/12mm.

Here is a the full installation guide from Akrapovic http://www.akrapovic.com/typo3conf/e...90_92_93_b.pdf
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      03-23-2012, 11:43 PM   #5
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sweet! thanks BMRLVR!
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      03-24-2012, 02:53 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youngvedder View Post
sweet! thanks BMRLVR!
Here's a DIY post http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=271895

My bolts didn't budge when trying to take them out from the front. You need to pull the skid plate to get to the nuts on the back. Then you will only be able to turn a 1/8th turn with a wrench. You don't need to drop the front felt. You can pull it down & get a ratchet in there to get to the front skid plate bolts.
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      03-24-2012, 04:03 AM   #7
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^anyone know the torque spec on the skid plate? Thanks in advance.
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      03-24-2012, 05:10 PM   #8
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To do the job right, you need to remove the 5 bolts (16mm) from the front skidplate. One is in the center jack mount. Also remove the three screw bolts (8mm) from the back of the skidplate. They hold the front of the tranny cover.

To remove the tranny cover, continue down the drivetrain along the cover. Remove the front two screw bolts (8mm), middle two washer nuts (10mm) and rear two screw bolts (10mm).

Then remove the front driver's side 02 harness connection cover. Two 10 mm bolts. It is a little tight with the skidplate attached in front but hanging loose in the rear, but totally doable with a 1/4 drive ratchet.

Then disconnect the front 02 on each side at the connector. Route the cable out of its holder clips and free of anything that would obstruct lowering the midpipe. Move on to the rear 02. Pull the harness connector down and disconnect it. Make sure the harness ends are free so the midpipe can drop.

Undo the front header to midpipe connectors. If you cannot get a torx fitting in there on top, a flex head 10 mm ratcheting wrench works fine. Work it into position at a right angle. Then use a 14 or 15 mm (forget which) ratchet or impact on the nut end. Undo each pair.

Undo the front flexi arm supports. 13 mm.

Move down to the far end of the midpipe and undo the mid to rerar exhaust clamps. Slide them back.

No go to the middle cross brace. Remove one 13 mm bolt each side. When you are ready to support the midpipe and let it drop, undo the remaining bolt each side.

If the midpipe does not drop, push the rear exhaust back to free up that end and wiggle the front end. It will come down. Be prepared since it weighs about 40 lbs.
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      03-24-2012, 05:14 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
To do the job right, you need to remove the 5 bolts (16mm) from the front skidplate. One is in the center jack mount. Also remove the three screw bolts (8mm) from the back of the skidplate. They hold the front of the tranny cover.

To remove the tranny cover, continue down the drivetrain along the cover. Remove the front two screw bolts (8mm), middle two washer nuts (10mm) and rear two screw bolts (10mm).

Then remove the front driver's side 02 harness connection cover. Two 10 mm bolts. It is a little tight with the skidplate attached in front but hanging loose in the rear, but totally doable with a 1/4 drive ratchet.

Then disconnect the front 02 on each side at the connector. Route the cable out of its holder clips and free of anything that would obstruct lowering the midpipe. Move on to the rear 02. Pull the harness connector down and disconnect it. Make sure the harness ends are free so the midpipe can drop.

Undo the front header to midpipe connectors. If you cannot get a torx fitting in there on top, a flex head 10 mm ratcheting wrench works fine. Work it into position at a right angle. Then use a 14 or 15 mm (forget which) ratchet or impact on the nut end. Undo each pair.

Undo the front flexi arm supports. 13 mm.

Move down to the far end of the midpipe and undo the mid to rerar exhaust clamps. Slide them back.

No go to the middle cross brace. Remove one 13 mm bolt each side. When you are ready to support the midpipe and let it drop, undo the remaining bolt each side.

If the midpipe does not drop, push the rear exhaust back to free up that end and wiggle the front end. It will come down. Be prepared since it weighs about 40 lbs.

Follow these directions and you cant screw up!
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      03-24-2012, 09:12 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb
To do the job right, you need to remove the 5 bolts (16mm) from the front skidplate. One is in the center jack mount. Also remove the three screw bolts (8mm) from the back of the skidplate. They hold the front of the tranny cover.

To remove the tranny cover, continue down the drivetrain along the cover. Remove the front two screw bolts (8mm), middle two washer nuts (10mm) and rear two screw bolts (10mm).

Then remove the front driver's side 02 harness connection cover. Two 10 mm bolts. It is a little tight with the skidplate attached in front but hanging loose in the rear, but totally doable with a 1/4 drive ratchet.

Then disconnect the front 02 on each side at the connector. Route the cable out of its holder clips and free of anything that would obstruct lowering the midpipe. Move on to the rear 02. Pull the harness connector down and disconnect it. Make sure the harness ends are free so the midpipe can drop.

Undo the front header to midpipe connectors. If you cannot get a torx fitting in there on top, a flex head 10 mm ratcheting wrench works fine. Work it into position at a right angle. Then use a 14 or 15 mm (forget which) ratchet or impact on the nut end. Undo each pair.

Undo the front flexi arm supports. 13 mm.

Move down to the far end of the midpipe and undo the mid to rerar exhaust clamps. Slide them back.

No go to the middle cross brace. Remove one 13 mm bolt each side. When you are ready to support the midpipe and let it drop, undo the remaining bolt each side.

If the midpipe does not drop, push the rear exhaust back to free up that end and wiggle the front end. It will come down. Be prepared since it weighs about 40 lbs.
Thanks for posting this! Got my x-pipe sitting here waiting to install. How much of a pita is all this without a lift (just stands)?
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      03-25-2012, 07:47 AM   #11
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Unfortunately, I do not have a lift yet so I have been doing it on jackstands. And I had to do it a few times because I modified a catless x-pipe into one with 4 resonators and had to do some test fitting and have also had to switch back for servicing. I can do it in an hour now, but double that for the first time.

At the header to midpipe connection, there are fiber cone shaped crush rings. Most x-pipes preserve these, but some don't mate well with them. If yours disintegrate or you find you have exhaust leaks, you may have to replace them. A temporary or even permanent fix might be high temp copper sealant by Permatex. My cones have held up so far, but I may replace them.

I also use antiseize on the 02 threads and a thin layer around the front and rear pipe ends of the midpipe.

Make sure you get the rear clamps positioned and tightened correctly. If they come loose, the bolt may vibrate out and you may lose the clamp fittings, which are not sold separately. I learned this the hard way.
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      03-25-2012, 06:35 PM   #12
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Thanks for the extra info. I will me installing an Akra midpipe. Did you use anti-seize on the pipe joints (either end of the midpipe?)

I was trying to decide between having a shop do it or just doing it myself, but now leaning towards the latter after reading your posts and looking at the ESS vid again.
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      03-25-2012, 08:03 PM   #13
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I put a thin film of antiseize on the ends (joints) of the pipes. Won't hurt and may help.

If you have that 10 mm flex head ratcheting wrench to hold the top of the header to midpipe bolts, you can do this. Might take 2 hours since you will go slowly and look at stuff.

Resist the urge to just twist the 02 wires and remove them from the midpipe while still attached to the harnesses. You can do that but it is not recommended.

I do all my own work. I like doing it and I am not rich, so not paying shops leaves me more money for mods. If I worked 80 hours per weeks and made hundreds of thousands of dollars per year, I'd pay someone else to do this and spend my time making money. The little free time I had, I would want to spend driving my car.
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