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      03-07-2012, 12:11 PM   #45
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OK well I am glad to know I should get 4-5 bottles but how much actually fills the system. I am assuming I will stop as soon as I see no more air bubbles while I am bleeding. If it's one continuous system couldn't you just bleed from one caliper?
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      03-07-2012, 12:44 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richardg View Post
Another question is wether I should bleed after the brakes are finished being installed for if I should do that first. Oh and how many bottles of fluid would I need for a full flush. I intend on using motul rbf600
You will need at least 2 bottles to flush it thoroughly manually.
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      03-07-2012, 12:51 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by Merked M3 View Post
I will also be installing a BBK, but most likely before the 19th, so I won't be able to learn from your experiences. But I will post anything that I get hung up on and the fixes. I am doing a StopTech 355mm kit on the front. And just a little recap, I will need: 6mm Allen key, PB Blaster, 9mm and 11mm socket set, stick for depressing the pedal, a tool to cut metal (or should I just take the dust shield off?) and that is it? Luckily the dealer is in the process of flushing the brake lines and adding Castrol SRF right now.

I hope I am not jacking this thread, but believe we are in the same boat.
You'll need more tools than that! Check the install instructions from the ST website (or call them if they're not available on line) and see what you really need.
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      03-07-2012, 01:01 PM   #48
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Don't forget to clean the new rotors with brake cleaner, for some reason people always seem forget that step.
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      03-07-2012, 01:04 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by richardg View Post
OK well I am glad to know I should get 4-5 bottles but how much actually fills the system. I am assuming I will stop as soon as I see no more air bubbles while I am bleeding. If it's one continuous system couldn't you just bleed from one caliper?
The braking system holds 1 liter. The recommended flush ("flush" means replace the brake fluid with new brake fluid) is 200 cc's out of each rear caliper and 300 cc's out of each front caliper. You can bleed (just getting trapped air out of the calipers) with much less than that.

You have to bleed every bleed screw on every caliper separately - the bleed screws are located at high points inside the caliper where any air in the caliper will be trapped. Air trapped at one bleed screw is still there after you bleed another bleed screw, so you have to do them all.

The exact instructions for bleeding should be included with your BBK.
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      03-07-2012, 01:04 PM   #50
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Don't forget to clean the new rotors with brake cleaner, for some reason people always seem forget that step.
Except for Stoptech, where you wash them with dish soap.
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      03-07-2012, 01:16 PM   #51
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My bad, I stand corrected. I say that because I have made that mistake.
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      03-07-2012, 02:51 PM   #52
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My bad, I stand corrected. I say that because I have made that mistake.
You mean, you "sit" corrected.
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      03-07-2012, 08:49 PM   #53
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Great thread! I'll be doing an install in the next 5-6 weeks. This is very good information for anyone wanting to DIY this project.
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      03-08-2012, 12:36 PM   #54
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Quote:
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You have to bleed the brakes again when you do the install.
Cool, the thing is that the M3 is in for service right now and one of the things it is getting (for free) is a brake fluid flush. I figured it was a waste to have them NOT put in the high temp stuff since I would be doing that before my track event anyway. So I guess I can just bleed the air out after I install the front BBK. (And then bleed the untouched rears too?) So potentially all I will be wasting is the fluid it takes to get the air out of the lines after the BBK install.
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      03-08-2012, 05:29 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merked M3 View Post
Cool, the thing is that the M3 is in for service right now and one of the things it is getting (for free) is a brake fluid flush. I figured it was a waste to have them NOT put in the high temp stuff since I would be doing that before my track event anyway. So I guess I can just bleed the air out after I install the front BBK. (And then bleed the untouched rears too?) So potentially all I will be wasting is the fluid it takes to get the air out of the lines after the BBK install.
Its a waste since you will bleed quite a bit of fluid through your system to get all of the air out of the new calipers. I went through 2.5 liters...sometimes it takes awhile.

Afterwards, I was told that tapping the caliper with a rubber while bleeding is a tremendous help
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      03-08-2012, 07:52 PM   #56
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I used an Offset Aviation Snip to cut the rear dust sheild off. 5 minutes and I'm done. Then trim any rough edges with the same snip or use a file.

To bleed I had a vacuum bleeder hooked up to an air compressor. I tapped the caliper while bleeding. Once done all around I had someone sit in the car and do the brake pump method just to verify there's no air. Sure enough, all good on all four calipers.
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      03-08-2012, 07:53 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
Its a waste since you will bleed quite a bit of fluid through your system to get all of the air out of the new calipers. I went through 2.5 liters...sometimes it takes awhile.

Afterwards, I was told that tapping the caliper with a rubber while bleeding is a tremendous help
Filling and bleeding the front calipers only should take about 1/2 liter of fluid, maybe a touch more. Tapping the caliper with a rubber sounds quite uncomfortable - I use a plastic faced hammer instead.
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      03-08-2012, 08:27 PM   #58
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Quote:
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Filling and bleeding the front calipers only should take about 1/2 liter of fluid, maybe a touch more. Tapping the caliper with a rubber sounds quite uncomfortable - I use a plastic faced hammer instead.
I did a 4 wheel kit. But I think my credibility is shot when it comes to brakes and DIYs as I have shown with all of the dumb things that I've never done. I'm just waiting to not install a caliper upside down.

But I did learn it sucks when you are bleeding in some good brake fluid and you run out...Sat night. Auto Zone???
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      03-09-2012, 09:50 AM   #59
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Wouldn't it be easier to just use a power bleeder and push all of the old fluid out the system and then pump in new fluid? You would have a system full of air but you could have less old and new fluids mixed together.
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      03-09-2012, 10:06 AM   #60
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IMO, 2 person pedal pump works much better if you have air in your system.
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      03-09-2012, 11:45 AM   #61
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IMO, 2 person pedal pump works much better if you have air in your system.
I agree with this assessment. Power bleeders waste a lot of fluid, and when mine blew up and sprayed my face with brake fluid, I kind of lost interest in using them.

These days my car is equipped with Russell Speed Bleeders. I can do a full four-corner flush in about an hour without any help.
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      03-09-2012, 11:59 AM   #62
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All good advice but everyone is forgetting the most important part ....
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      03-09-2012, 12:14 PM   #63
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All good advice but everyone is forgetting the most important part ....
Haha I already am subpar with installs!

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      03-09-2012, 03:02 PM   #64
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I am assuming the bleeding process takes a long time? Someone mentioned it taking them and hour
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      03-09-2012, 03:27 PM   #65
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I am assuming the bleeding process takes a long time? Someone mentioned it taking them and hour
That was me, but that's starting with the car on the ground and all four wheels installed to finishing with the car back on the ground with all four wheels installed. The actual bleeding process takes about 20 minutes.

The rest of the time is lifting the car and putting it down, taking the wheels off and putting them back on, getting the tools out and putting them away, washing out the bleeder bottle with soap so it doesn't get cloudy, putting the used fluid in a bottle labeled "Recycle" and last but not least, re-torquing the lug nuts so the wheels stay on.
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      03-09-2012, 03:36 PM   #66
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That was me, but that's starting with the car on the ground and all four wheels installed to finishing with the car back on the ground with all four wheels installed. The actual bleeding process takes about 20 minutes.

The rest of the time is lifting the car and putting it down, taking the wheels off and putting them back on, getting the tools out and putting them away, washing out the bleeder bottle with soap so it doesn't get cloudy, putting the used fluid in a bottle labeled "Recycle" and last but not least, re-torquing the lug nuts so the wheels stay on.
OK. that isn't so bad then. That is hopefully something I won't have to do more than once or twice any time soon anyway
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