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      03-02-2012, 12:23 PM   #23
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If the rear rotors are hard to get off...make sure the parking brake isn't engaged. Not that I've ever done that.
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      03-02-2012, 12:29 PM   #24
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Quote:
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If the rear rotors are hard to get off...make sure the parking brake isn't engaged. Not that I've ever done that.
HAHA!
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      03-02-2012, 12:33 PM   #25
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lol. thanks for all the tips. can't wait to get the kit. forged aluminum calipers and some other cool goodies. they are going to sell a carbon ceramic setup too that isn't as much as I thought it would be but still pricey.
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      03-02-2012, 01:54 PM   #26
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Just make sure you don't install them upside down. lol

Bleeders screws always face UP.
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      03-02-2012, 02:22 PM   #27
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Quote:
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Just make sure you don't install them upside down. lol

Bleeders screws always face UP.
I only knew that because I saw some pic on platte form ag's facebook where they corrected that same problem on a car lol
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      03-02-2012, 03:12 PM   #28
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And don't install the pads backwards. I REALLY have done that. Seriously.
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      03-02-2012, 03:14 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
If the rear rotors are hard to get off...make sure the parking brake isn't engaged. Not that I've ever done that.
HAHA!
Why wont this f'ing rotor come off!...x10 curse words... Oh, the e brake is on. Doh!
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      03-02-2012, 04:22 PM   #30
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Quote:
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J
Why wont this f'ing rotor come off!...x10 curse words... Oh, the e brake is on. Doh!
Everyone has those moments from time to time.
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      03-02-2012, 06:30 PM   #31
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Everyone has those moments from time to time.
Yes...learning moments. Some more than others.
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      03-06-2012, 05:27 AM   #32
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Quote:
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You can pick up a rotary tool that operates on air from Harbor Freight if you want to get the job done without breaking the bank. They are about 20 dollars. Just get a cut off wheel along with it, mark your dust shield where you intend to cut and make a preliminary "soft" cut to start a tracer line. This way when you go to cut the rest fully, you will have a nice clean and smooth cut. File down the edge of your cut so it is perfect.

Keep the piece you cut off so you can use it on the other side as a template to make sure both sides are as symmetrical as possible.

The front dust shields must be fully removed with the 6 piston calipers.

To remove the rotors, undo both retaining bolts. Hit them with some liquid wrench first, then go to town on them with a ratchet, do not use a power tool as you will certainly strip the head from the impact.

If the rotor is slightly seized from rust or corrosion, wrap the rotor with a towel, or use a grout sponge and gently start to tap in an even fashion to dislodge from the hub. Do not take hard wacks at the rotor as this will potentially distort the face of the rotor.

The brake kits already are designed with the rear parking brake assembly in mind. It is as simple as removing the factory rotor and installing the new one, it is really that simple. Just make sure the rotor is installed in the correct orientation.

When you undo your brake lines, ALWAYS undo the line at the hard-line union, not the actual caliper. Use a quality open ended wrench from a reputable tool company (Snap-On, Mac). The cheaper tools might strip the head.

Richards trick on depressing the brake pedal is a good one. Not many do this, but it is a good trick. It helps keep the mess to a minimum.

Malek
Flare nut wrench not open ended wrench. You'll most likely strip if the nut is on tight enough.
Quote:
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Just make sure you don't install them upside down. lol

Bleeders screws always face UP.
LOOOOOOOOOOL
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      03-06-2012, 03:23 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Griffin View Post
Flare nut wrench not open ended wrench. You'll most likely strip if the nut is on tight enough.
You shouldn't be using a flare nut or open ended wrench to undo the nipple for the first time. You should use the correct size socket to undo it for the first time. From there you can use an open ended or flare wrench for the bleeding procedure. When you are done, you can re-torque correctly with the correct socket.
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      03-06-2012, 06:36 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Malekreza11 View Post
You shouldn't be using a flare nut or open ended wrench to undo the nipple for the first time. You should use the correct size socket to undo it for the first time. From there you can use an open ended or flare wrench for the bleeding procedure. When you are done, you can re-torque correctly with the correct socket.
Say what? You said the hard line to the brake line.
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      03-06-2012, 09:19 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Griffin View Post
Say what? You said the hard line to the brake line.
I'm referring to the brake bleeding nipple.

The hardline, a flared wrench should be used. An open ended wrench can and should only be used when the nut is not fully tight since the flared wrench is a tight fit sometimes.
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      03-06-2012, 10:00 PM   #36
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Agreed.
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      03-06-2012, 10:04 PM   #37
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so wait here is a question. should I start my bbk change in the rear passenger side since that is farthest away from the master cylinder? OH and the BBK ships on the 19th of this month!!!
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      03-06-2012, 11:56 PM   #38
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Quote:
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Just make sure you don't install them upside down. lol

Bleeders screws always face UP.



Isn't it funny that he is giving brake install tips now
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      03-07-2012, 01:51 AM   #39
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so wait here is a question. should I start my bbk change in the rear passenger side since that is farthest away from the master cylinder? OH and the BBK ships on the 19th of this month!!!
No, you don't necessarily need to do that.

For your bleeding procedure, start at the caliper farthest away from the master cylinder which in this case would be the passenger rear.

Bleeding order is as follows:
1) Passenger Rear Caliper
2) Driver Rear Caliper
3) Passenger Front Caliper
4) Driver Front Caliper

Take care in making sure the reservoir always has fluid so you don't potentially draw in any air while bleeding.
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      03-07-2012, 03:27 AM   #40
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Quote:
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so wait here is a question. should I start my bbk change in the rear passenger side since that is farthest away from the master cylinder? OH and the BBK ships on the 19th of this month!!!
I will also be installing a BBK, but most likely before the 19th, so I won't be able to learn from your experiences. But I will post anything that I get hung up on and the fixes. I am doing a StopTech 355mm kit on the front. And just a little recap, I will need: 6mm Allen key, PB Blaster, 9mm and 11mm socket set, stick for depressing the pedal, a tool to cut metal (or should I just take the dust shield off?) and that is it? Luckily the dealer is in the process of flushing the brake lines and adding Castrol SRF right now.

I hope I am not jacking this thread, but believe we are in the same boat.
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      03-07-2012, 10:27 AM   #41
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Another question is wether I should bleed after the brakes are finished being installed for if I should do that first. Oh and how many bottles of fluid would I need for a full flush. I intend on using motul rbf600
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      03-07-2012, 10:46 AM   #42
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I didn't install the BBK on my M but I did do the last car I owned. I used a dremel to trim the dust sheild. Also, one mistake I made on the last car was not bleeding both nipples. I'm not sure about your kit but mine had two bleeder nipples on each caliper.
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      03-07-2012, 11:39 AM   #43
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Another question is wether I should bleed after the brakes are finished being installed for if I should do that first. Oh and how many bottles of fluid would I need for a full flush. I intend on using motul rbf600
Do a full flush after you complete the install, no sense doing it before because air will get in the lines during the install.

If I were you based on your questions (no offense intended) get 4 to 5 bottles--just in case and motul is cheap enough.

I give you kudos--the fact that you are doing it yourself. Err on the side of caution and have more brake fluid on hand than you need. Good luck.
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      03-07-2012, 11:41 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merked M3 View Post
I will also be installing a BBK, but most likely before the 19th, so I won't be able to learn from your experiences. But I will post anything that I get hung up on and the fixes. I am doing a StopTech 355mm kit on the front. And just a little recap, I will need: 6mm Allen key, PB Blaster, 9mm and 11mm socket set, stick for depressing the pedal, a tool to cut metal (or should I just take the dust shield off?) and that is it? Luckily the dealer is in the process of flushing the brake lines and adding Castrol SRF right now.

I hope I am not jacking this thread, but believe we are in the same boat.
You have to bleed the brakes again when you do the install.
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