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      03-01-2012, 02:37 PM   #1
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BBK installation questions and guidance

I have recently purchased a new BBK (more on that as it develops) and I will be installing it in the coming weeks upon arrival. I have several questions going forward.

First off I do not own any kind of rotary tool and I am aware I will need to cut/trim the oem dust shields. I was wondering if any random rotary tool would do or if any of you had any suggestions. I was considering just going to harbor freight and checking out a generic unit.

Secondly the 6mm hex bolts that hold the rotors on are they hard to get out? I had a nightmare getting the rotors off my old e36m, because the bolts were stuck in there very well. I was wondering if you guys used any kind of rust penetration like wd40 or if they just came out very easy. I want to preserve my stock brakes for resale or re-installation. I would like to avoid my rubber mallet. I barely have 4k on the OEM rotors and pads.

Lastly is there any kind of special attention needed for the rear due to the parking brake equipment.


I usually try and do these projects myself to learn and save cash, though I am more concerned with this being done right. Over the last 4 years I have gone from only being able to change a spare tire to swapping ignition coils to replacing my whole cooling system on my two e36s. Not super complicated to most of you guys, but for me these were all learning experiences. If this is the kind of project I should leave to pros let me know. I have done brake pad changes before but I have only removed the front rotors once.
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      03-01-2012, 03:01 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richardg View Post
I have recently purchased a new BBK (more on that as it develops) and I will be installing it in the coming weeks upon arrival. I have several questions going forward.

First off I do not own any kind of rotary tool and I am aware I will need to cut/trim the oem dust shields. I was wondering if any random rotary tool would do or if any of you had any suggestions. I was considering just going to harbor freight and checking out a generic unit.

Secondly the 6mm hex bolts that hold the rotors on are they hard to get out? I had a nightmare getting the rotors off my old e36m, because the bolts were stuck in there very well. I was wondering if you guys used any kind of rust penetration like wd40 or if they just came out very easy. I want to preserve my stock brakes for resale or re-installation. I would like to avoid my rubber mallet. I barely have 4k on the OEM rotors and pads.

Lastly is there any kind of special attention needed for the rear due to the parking brake equipment.


I usually try and do these projects myself to learn and save cash, though I am more concerned with this being done right. Over the last 4 years I have gone from only being able to change a spare tire to swapping ignition coils to replacing my whole cooling system on my two e36s. Not super complicated to most of you guys, but for me these were all learning experiences. If this is the kind of project I should leave to pros let me know. I have done brake pad changes before but I have only removed the front rotors once.
a simple cutter is more than enough to trim the rear shield. you can remove the front shield. the rotors can be seized onto the hub but the bolts should come out easily. The rotor seizing is the problem. You do not need to remove the parking break for the rear, just leave it alone.
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      03-01-2012, 03:17 PM   #3
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a simple cutter is more than enough to trim the rear shield. you can remove the front shield. the rotors can be seized onto the hub but the bolts should come out easily. The rotor seizing is the problem. You do not need to remove the parking break for the rear, just leave it alone.
You my friend are awesome. If you guys end up having any other suggestions or tips please chime in. I am going to be doing that and my exhaust install as soon as the brakes arrive. I am super excited. Have a lot of track days scheduled coming up this year.
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      03-01-2012, 03:20 PM   #4
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You my friend are awesome. If you guys end up having any other suggestions or tips please chime in. I am going to be doing that and my exhaust install as soon as the brakes arrive. I am super excited. Have a lot of track days scheduled coming up this year.
the brakes are easy trust me. i did it in about 2 hours on just a jack and 2 jackstands with simple tools. All you need is some elbow grease and some penetrating oil to help things move.
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      03-01-2012, 03:24 PM   #5
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PB Blaster is your friend for the hex bolts. Spray on and allow to sit for while before attempting to break the bolts loose (assuming they are somewhat seized).
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      03-01-2012, 03:51 PM   #6
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just make sure you get off all the bolts on the rotor. I know someone who smacked the rotor hard enough to warp it trying to get it unfrozen but didn't realize he missed a bolt holding it on...
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      03-01-2012, 03:51 PM   #7
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Awesome. I haven't been this excited about a mod since my LS3s. Oh another question is should I be concerned with clamping off the brake lines during the install. I was going to change/flush fluids while I was at it and figured it didn't matter if I lost fluid during the change. I am not sure how viscous this fluid is. If it's going to make a mess then I will clamp them off.
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      03-01-2012, 06:00 PM   #8
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You can purchase a sheet metal cutter to cut the rear dust shield. Probably a file as well to remove the sharp edges.

As for brake fluid, place a stick between the brake pedal and driver's seat. Move your seat forward such that it depresses the brake pedal about 1.5". This will virtually eliminate fluid loss when the brake lines are removed.

Happy DIYing!
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      03-01-2012, 06:31 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard@M-World View Post
You can purchase a sheet metal cutter to cut the rear dust shield. Probably a file as well to remove the sharp edges.

As for brake fluid, place a stick between the brake pedal and driver's seat. Move your seat forward such that it depresses the brake pedal about 1.5". This will virtually eliminate fluid loss when the brake lines are removed.

Happy DIYing!
the tricks you guys come up with is crazy. I would have never thought to do that. I can't wait to put this setup on the car.
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      03-01-2012, 08:33 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard@M-World View Post
You can purchase a sheet metal cutter to cut the rear dust shield. Probably a file as well to remove the sharp edges.

As for brake fluid, place a stick between the brake pedal and driver's seat. Move your seat forward such that it depresses the brake pedal about 1.5". This will virtually eliminate fluid loss when the brake lines are removed.

Happy DIYing!

Good tip. It works.
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      03-01-2012, 09:33 PM   #11
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What color did you get? I should be ordering some in the next month or two myself. Congrats!
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      03-01-2012, 09:41 PM   #12
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I would recommend wacking the 6mm hex bolts with the mallet 2-3 times while the socket/wrench is in there. This ensures the hex wrench is in tight and also loosens up the bolt. The last thing you want is to strip one of those bolts and have to drill it out! ...the bolt heads are very soft. Maybe even pick up some new 6mm bolts to use on the new rotors.
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      03-01-2012, 09:56 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richardg View Post
I have recently purchased a new BBK (more on that as it develops) and I will be installing it in the coming weeks upon arrival. I have several questions going forward.

First off I do not own any kind of rotary tool and I am aware I will need to cut/trim the oem dust shields. I was wondering if any random rotary tool would do or if any of you had any suggestions. I was considering just going to harbor freight and checking out a generic unit.

Secondly the 6mm hex bolts that hold the rotors on are they hard to get out? I had a nightmare getting the rotors off my old e36m, because the bolts were stuck in there very well. I was wondering if you guys used any kind of rust penetration like wd40 or if they just came out very easy. I want to preserve my stock brakes for resale or re-installation. I would like to avoid my rubber mallet. I barely have 4k on the OEM rotors and pads.

Lastly is there any kind of special attention needed for the rear due to the parking brake equipment.


I usually try and do these projects myself to learn and save cash, though I am more concerned with this being done right. Over the last 4 years I have gone from only being able to change a spare tire to swapping ignition coils to replacing my whole cooling system on my two e36s. Not super complicated to most of you guys, but for me these were all learning experiences. If this is the kind of project I should leave to pros let me know. I have done brake pad changes before but I have only removed the front rotors once.

You can pick up a rotary tool that operates on air from Harbor Freight if you want to get the job done without breaking the bank. They are about 20 dollars. Just get a cut off wheel along with it, mark your dust shield where you intend to cut and make a preliminary "soft" cut to start a tracer line. This way when you go to cut the rest fully, you will have a nice clean and smooth cut. File down the edge of your cut so it is perfect.

Keep the piece you cut off so you can use it on the other side as a template to make sure both sides are as symmetrical as possible.

The front dust shields must be fully removed with the 6 piston calipers.

To remove the rotors, undo both retaining bolts. Hit them with some liquid wrench first, then go to town on them with a ratchet, do not use a power tool as you will certainly strip the head from the impact.

If the rotor is slightly seized from rust or corrosion, wrap the rotor with a towel, or use a grout sponge and gently start to tap in an even fashion to dislodge from the hub. Do not take hard wacks at the rotor as this will potentially distort the face of the rotor.

The brake kits already are designed with the rear parking brake assembly in mind. It is as simple as removing the factory rotor and installing the new one, it is really that simple. Just make sure the rotor is installed in the correct orientation.

When you undo your brake lines, ALWAYS undo the line at the hard-line union, not the actual caliper. Use a quality open ended wrench from a reputable tool company (Snap-On, Mac). The cheaper tools might strip the head.

Richards trick on depressing the brake pedal is a good one. Not many do this, but it is a good trick. It helps keep the mess to a minimum.

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      03-01-2012, 10:15 PM   #14
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To answer the color question it is a natural colored anodized finished. It's going to be a little different that what people usually order.
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      03-01-2012, 10:17 PM   #15
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Cool, post pictures once installed.

Quote:
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To answer the color question it is a natural colored anodized finished. It's going to be a little different that what people usually order.
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      03-01-2012, 10:24 PM   #16
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Cool, post pictures once installed.
Here is a teaser of the unit. I didn't really want to spill the beans but I am getting bored

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      03-02-2012, 03:53 AM   #17
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^^^ Nice, I like it!
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      03-02-2012, 08:46 AM   #18
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^^^ Nice, I like it!
thank you. I believe I will be the first on the forum (possibly ever) to get this setup. It's just been released for the e9x. At least I haven't seen anyone else with it.
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      03-02-2012, 10:16 AM   #19
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Very cool. Thought about doing a similar color on mine.
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      03-02-2012, 10:48 AM   #20
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It was the only option available actually for this particular kit but I love it.
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      03-02-2012, 12:08 PM   #21
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Rotora. What rotors will you run?
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      03-02-2012, 12:20 PM   #22
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this is Rotoras new super challenge kit includes 355mm front and rears. forged calipers and some other goodies.
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