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      02-14-2012, 01:56 PM   #45
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Well this hasn't gone well. Took panel off and there is no black only wire. The only black wire that is there has a yellow stripe on it.

Here is what you see:



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      02-14-2012, 05:10 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE TECH View Post
Well this hasn't gone well. Took panel off and there is no black only wire. The only black wire that is there has a yellow stripe on it.

Here is what you see:

Dam! Did you try the behind or near the seat bolster? he mentioned....

"either behind the bolster or the C-pillar trim. "


thanks for trying!
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      02-14-2012, 05:15 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ILSMKU View Post
Dam! Did you try the behind or near the seat bolster? he mentioned....

"either behind the bolster or the C-pillar trim. "


thanks for trying!
I didn't cause he was sure it went up to the roof and there were no wires in the c-pillar area going to the roof that matched his description. Only the black with the yellow.
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      02-14-2012, 05:40 PM   #48
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I sent an email to VP Electricity to see if he will let me know about this wire. I'd like to get it taken care of before I leave here today so we shall see.
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      02-14-2012, 06:19 PM   #49
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You guys are making a great case for Musicar Certified Sound systems. I got the OP's question, but I've been taking care of actual customers today, and for the record, free tech support for customers is for scheduled installs or as we get freed up, and free tech support for non-customers is when I have time, and comes with a free sarcasm entree.

But before you blow something up:







There is a solid black lead which is actually a coaxial lead, and there is a thinner black wire. You want the thinner black wire, which mimics the turn-on of the HiFi amp and so doesn't shut off until all the doors show closed and are locked and the trunk shows closed (ditto the hood IF you have BMW security), and all that is after a delay. So basically, if you don't go out of your way, this wire will test as having 12V on it most of the time. (I assume you guys are using a voltmeter to test the wire?)

If you have ANY sense at all for wiring, you can tell them apart. If you read this and say, "But how can I tell them apart?", please close the browser window immediately and make an appointment with someone who ought to be doing wiring in a BMW M3 vehicle.
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      02-14-2012, 06:25 PM   #50
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^^^ What do you mean it will have 12v "most of the time"

Just checking because a remote lead should turn off when the car is off. When you say "most of the time" it makes me think you mean its on most of the time, regardless if car is on or off.

And a BIG THANK YOU for clearly pointing out where this wire is. I/WE DO appreciate it. It appears your working on the other side of the car than TECH was. Tech, that might be your issue?

I would love to send you some business. But I had already spent a lot of money on a nice AMP and 2 JL W6 10" woofers before I found out about you guys. Im willing to rock a single 10" on one of your boxes, but i think you guys only offer E92 M3 in single 12" boxes.
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      02-14-2012, 06:35 PM   #51
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Actual customers? I know that I am an actual customer.

Yes, it appears that I am working on the wrong side of the vehicle.
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      02-14-2012, 09:49 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE TECH View Post
Actual customers? I know that I am an actual customer.

Yes, it appears that I am working on the wrong side of the vehicle.
Sorry about that... the remote turn on in the HiFi runs on the left side.
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      02-15-2012, 09:20 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technic View Post
Sorry about that... the remote turn on in the HiFi runs on the left side.
I'll pull that side of the vehicle apart today. Thanks.
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      02-15-2012, 01:06 PM   #54
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I don't go searching for M3 info on the E90 side just cause maybe the cars might share systems. Just cause it's on a non-M doesn't mean it's on an M.

On another note, I am in the middle of pulling the wire I had going up front and putting the side I took apart yesterday back together so I can start finding the wire on the passenger side and hopefully getting it wired back up today.
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      02-15-2012, 02:12 PM   #55
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Done. Found the wire and am now running the amp off that. Not sure if this will change anything, but it's done.
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      02-15-2012, 02:14 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE TECH View Post
Done. Found the wire and am now running the amp off that. Not sure if this will change anything, but it's done.

Right on man! Let me know if that funky popping goes away. I'll probably do my install this weekend now that I know I can do it all in the trunk area.

Thanks to both Technic and VP for the help you gave us.
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      02-15-2012, 02:18 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by THE TECH View Post
Done. Found the wire and am now running the amp off that. Not sure if this will change anything, but it's done.
Was the wire behind the right C-pillar trim?
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      02-15-2012, 02:21 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technic View Post
Was the wire behind the right C-pillar trim?
I didn't take that trim piece off. I went EXACTLY where VP pointed out in his pic. It does run up that way so it more than likely does. I checked with a DVM before using it. Gave 11.37v with the radio on but the car not started.
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      02-23-2012, 10:26 AM   #59
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After several days it appears that changing this wire to a different location/wire has made no difference with the sound issues.
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      02-26-2012, 12:04 AM   #60
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Update:

I installed my sub and AMP today. I used the thin black (more like super thin) wire behind the rear passenger seat that VP Electricity mentioned. It was very easy to locate thanks to those photos.

I was a little nervous to splice into that wire because its very thin. But I would rather do that than take a part my dash.

I didnt have a helper or the time to take pictures, but VP Electricity clearly pointed out a easy and close location of a remote lead wire.

I used Technics harness, a LC2i, 2 10" JL subs and a mid size box up against my reat seats. It sounds nice, But I want a single 12 " in that pretty sub box TECH has in the side of this trunk.

Thanks again VP!
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      02-26-2012, 01:53 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ILSMKU View Post
Update:

I installed my sub and AMP today. I used the thin black (more like super thin) wire behind the rear passenger seat that VP Electricity mentioned. It was very easy to locate thanks to those photos.

I was a little nervous to splice into that wire because its very thin. But I would rather do that than take a part my dash.

I didnt have a helper or the time to take pictures, but VP Electricity clearly pointed out a easy and close location of a remote lead wire.

I used Technics harness, a LC2i, 2 10" JL subs and a mid size box up against my reat seats. It sounds nice, But I want a single 12 " in that pretty sub box TECH has in the side of this trunk.

Thanks again VP!
Glad it all went in smoothly for you!
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      02-26-2012, 03:18 PM   #62
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Well, it sounds like this popping was not due to the remote wire, and is due to something else, so we can do some troubleshooting and figure out what isn't playing nice.

If you disconnect the RCA inputs from the amplifier, and leave everything else the same, does the popping still happen?

What about with the RCA cable reconnected, and the speaker level input connector to the LC2i unplugged?
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      02-26-2012, 11:07 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ILSMKU View Post
I used Technics harness, a LC2i, 2 10" JL subs and a mid size box up against my reat seats. It sounds nice, But I want a single 12 " in that pretty sub box TECH has in the side of this trunk.
still cant believe the lc2i/lc6i don't detect enough signal to turn on
Ironic when their turn on future is called Great Turn On (gto)
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      02-27-2012, 12:27 AM   #64
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Every signal sensing device works off of DC offset. Many discrete amplifiers don't have enough DC offset to trigger these circuits until they are up pretty loud. The signal sensing is intended to work with deck power BTL outputs and low-performance BTL amplifiers (such as HiFi) and the EP amp is a discrete design.

Basically, deck-power ICs and low-performance amplifiers use bridged channels, which have a ton of DC content.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bridged...led_amplifiers

Their manual does specify this, so it's not like they lied about it always working or anything.
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      02-29-2012, 10:31 AM   #65
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While reading the "owners manual" which I say loosely since it's barely a few paragraphs for the LC2i, it mentions the GTO feature as being factory defaulted on. Should this be changed when using a remote wire? Does this feature not work in our cars for some reason?

I am asking cause I am still baffled as to why I suddenly lost bass from my setup. I have so far double checked the wiring, changed the ground position, installed a new ground terminal since the one that came with my setup allowed the cable to slide right out, bought another sub and changed out RCA cables. None of this has helped so far. My last three options are the harness, amp and LC2i. If I can make time today, I am going to install a 1000/1 amp that I have here to see if the symptoms go away. I am really unsure of what else to do at this point. This simple install has turned into a nightmare.
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      02-29-2012, 10:57 AM   #66
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Quote:
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While reading the "owners manual" which I say loosely since it's barely a few paragraphs for the LC2i, it mentions the GTO feature as being factory defaulted on. Should this be changed when using a remote wire? Does this feature not work in our cars for some reason?

I am asking cause I am still baffled as to why I suddenly lost bass from my setup. I have so far double checked the wiring, changed the ground position, installed a new ground terminal since the one that came with my setup allowed the cable to slide right out, bought another sub and changed out RCA cables. None of this has helped so far. My last three options are the harness, amp and LC2i. If I can make time today, I am going to install a 1000/1 amp that I have here to see if the symptoms go away. I am really unsure of what else to do at this point. This simple install has turned into a nightmare.
1) With car/iDrive OFF, open trunk and have a good look at the LC2i and your aftermarket amp. They should be ON.

2) Leave trunk opened, go away and come back in about 10 minutes.

3) Take a look at the LC2i and the aftermarket amp: they should be OFF.

4) Open the driver's door.

5) LC2i and the aftermarket amp should be ON.

That tests the OEM remote wire. GTO is irrelevant if you connected the thin black wire directly to the LC2i and then the LC2i remote out to the aftermarket amp.

1) Connect aftermarket amp inputs to the LC2i MAIN outputs.

2) Set LC2i gains (all of them) to min

3) Play a 50Hz tone and adjust LC2i MAIN gain until is loud enough for you from the driver seat.

That should be it.

Remember, the harness is only wires connecting the OEM amp woofer outputs to the LC2i high level inputs.
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