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      02-01-2012, 02:01 AM   #23
kaiv
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wow what a thread

So now please tell us, who installed the brake kit?
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      02-01-2012, 02:02 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaiv View Post
wow what a thread

So now please tell us, who installed the brake kit?
MRFail?
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      02-01-2012, 02:09 AM   #25
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MRFail?
some shops shouldn't be installing parts like this without proper product knowledge and mechanic know how.

Huge safety risk......
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      02-01-2012, 02:09 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by tom @ eas View Post
ABS pump can be cycled with Autologic.
Go to know.

Thank you Tom.

my question has been answered

/thread
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      02-01-2012, 02:10 AM   #27
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MRFail?
LOL the very same place who does the failed strut mount hack jobs!

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      02-01-2012, 02:14 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by persian54 View Post
Didn't mean for this thread to turn into bleeder screw vs abs pump

But good to know.....
Quote:
Originally Posted by persian54 View Post
This was how one StopTech rep advised on the install.

Will be corrected Thursday afternoon-ish

Quote:
Originally Posted by persian54 View Post
now now let's get back on topic.. where can I go, either than the dealer, if I needed my ABS system etc flushed?
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Originally Posted by persian54 View Post
Go to know.

Thank you Tom.

my question has been answered

/thread

Persian, why are you ignoring the fact that whoever installed those has no business working on cars?

BTW Stoptech kits come with clear printed instructions.
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      02-01-2012, 02:19 AM   #29
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Seriously, having your brakes installed incorrectly is very dangerous. Those who don't know what they're doing shouldn't be touching things that can harm others.
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      02-01-2012, 03:11 AM   #30
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To cycle the ABS pump, you'll need a shop with a GT1 or the latest version of the BMW computer. I believe the abs pump is normally cycled during a dealer performed brake bleed...might wanna check.

It does take a long time to bleed the air out of new calipers. I'm sure being upside down doesn't help. For this, I recommend the old fashioned 2 person pump and hold method. For regular bleeds for the track, you can use a vacuum bleeder.

The motive one was terrible. I'd stick with one that pulls the fluid through the bleed screws.
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      02-01-2012, 03:37 AM   #31
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Somehow, this seems fitting:



.

Seriously though, step away from cars. Yes, you, step away.

.
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      02-01-2012, 06:52 AM   #32
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I've seen this problem on at least 3 different cars now.
If you are more boy racer than mechanic, leave it to the experts
This is flat-out dangerous. Did you not think it odd that you had so much pedal travel to begin with?
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      02-01-2012, 07:11 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpc View Post
I've seen this problem on at least 3 different cars now.
If you are more boy racer than mechanic, leave it to the experts
This is flat-out dangerous. Did you not think it odd that you had so much pedal travel to begin with?
The OP did not install the calipers himself and, yes, he did immediately complain about pedal feel/travel. He was told his ABS pump was bad and that's why the pedal was soft. Also, as soon as he noticed the bleed screw/valve was pointed down he asked if the calipers were installed incorrectly...
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      02-01-2012, 10:29 AM   #34
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Beisdes the fact about the caliper install issue. if you can not find a shop that can activate the ABS pump, you can do a last option way. This would be taking your car into a grassy area and brake hard to activate the abs a few times. Then after go bleed your brakes. You can repeat it as many times as you need if there is still air.
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      02-01-2012, 01:52 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaiv View Post
BTW Stoptech kits come with clear printed instructions.
I bought mine used, so there were no printed instructions.
The StopTech rep that the shop spoke to provided the instructions over the phone.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
To cycle the ABS pump, you'll need a shop with a GT1 or the latest version of the BMW computer. I believe the abs pump is normally cycled during a dealer performed brake bleed...might wanna check.

It does take a long time to bleed the air out of new calipers. I'm sure being upside down doesn't help. For this, I recommend the old fashioned 2 person pump and hold method. For regular bleeds for the track, you can use a vacuum bleeder.
So a GT1 or an Autologic both do this, good to know.

The calipers were purchased used, as were the rotors/pads/lines etc.

The do you mean by:
Quote:
The motive one was terrible. I'd stick with one that pulls the fluid through the bleed screws.
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Originally Posted by VSmotorsports View Post
Beisdes the fact about the caliper install issue. if you can not find a shop that can activate the ABS pump, you can do a last option way. This would be taking your car into a grassy area and brake hard to activate the abs a few times. Then after go bleed your brakes. You can repeat it as many times as you need if there is still air.
So basically.. go and brake hard...?
What's the advantage of being on grassy? Since it's slippery? Meaning it'll cause the ABS to activate easier?

To be 100% honest, I really cannot recall my ABS ever kicking in while I'm driving the M3.
I had it kick on once in a awhile on my 335i, Z4, and non-performance cars (like Camry Altima etc), but I cannot recall ever having the ABS activated on the M3.
I also cannot remember the last time I did an emergency stop on the street...... guess being a grandma on the street has it's advantages? lol

Quote:
Originally Posted by jpc View Post
I've seen this problem on at least 3 different cars now.
If you are more boy racer than mechanic, leave it to the experts
This is flat-out dangerous. Did you not think it odd that you had so much pedal travel to begin with?
Can you clarify the dangers?
In regards to my particular situation:
I have no braked hard, I have driven roughly 200 miles, but 150-160 of that was high way cruising, meaning I didn't touch the brakes (yes can you believe there was no traffic on the freeways? yay for midnight driving home lol).

And the street/parking driving, I haven't braked hard.

I don't see how I could have damaged anything? Please do correct me if I am wrong.

I did notice the pedal was a little odd, but it's not that bad...at least compared to how bad my stocks were lol... this is a great improvement over how my brakes have been for the past 5-6 weeks

I am going to get this corrected tomorrow afternoon.
And a new bleed will be conducted. I better get my leg ready for a hard workout !!
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      02-01-2012, 02:43 PM   #36
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I know you track your car. So these are newly installed for the track? I am glad you are getting this figured out before you went back. I think that is why everyone is saying it is VERY dangerous. You probably would not have stopped at 100 mph+ at least not in time to not hit something or someone.
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      02-01-2012, 02:55 PM   #37
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I know you track your car. So these are newly installed for the track? I am glad you are getting this figured out before you went back. I think that is why everyone is saying it is VERY dangerous. You probably would not have stopped at 100 mph+ at least not in time to not hit something or someone.
Well, my driving style is I always do at least 1-2 warm up laps to make sure everything is up to temp, but also to make sure everything "works"

So I would have realized the braking sucked before anything catastrophic happened (yes I am being optimistic)

Next event is Feb 4th, hence why I am getting this fixed ASAP.
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      02-01-2012, 03:00 PM   #38
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Well all that really matters is you are getting it fixed before you or anyone got hurt. These are the same brakes I have BTW and they could stop a train. Enjoy them!
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      02-01-2012, 03:11 PM   #39
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Well all that really matters is you are getting it fixed before you or anyone got hurt. These are the same brakes I have BTW and they could stop a train. Enjoy them!
What pads you run?

Since it's so easy to swap pads, I'm thinking of doing track pads. I never did it before cause it seems too difficult on the stock system
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      02-01-2012, 03:13 PM   #40
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Quote:
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Well all that really matters is you are getting it fixed before you or anyone got hurt.
+1

Glad to hear this was found and will be fixed before your first track event
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      02-01-2012, 03:15 PM   #41
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I am not at the level yet (may never be) where I need dedicated track pads. I run the Street Performance Stoptech Pads. They are quiet on the street, have good initial bite when they are cold, and work great on the track. Even though it is easy to change pads on these calipers, I am lazy and really enjoy driving to the track, running hard, and driving back and not having to change pads unless they are just worn.
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      02-01-2012, 03:16 PM   #42
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I am not at the level yet (may never be) where I need dedicated track pads. I run the Street Performance Stoptech Pads. They are quiet on the street, have good initial bite when they are cold, and work great on the track. Even though it is easy to change pads on these calipers, I am lazy and really enjoy driving to the track, running hard, and driving back and not having to change pads unless they are just worn.
Yeah I used street perf on my stock caliper set up with SS lines.

cheap and last quite a while.

street perf pads are currently installed on this kit
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      02-01-2012, 05:28 PM   #43
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Wow this is nuts! Exactly why I always do the work myself.
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      02-01-2012, 05:44 PM   #44
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Right basically brake hard to activate the abs, the grassy field just makes it easier to activate the abs. Instead of going on the street slamming on the brakes.
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