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      01-07-2012, 06:58 PM   #1

Drives: '09 M3
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: SC

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Build your own camber gauge

Sears 10" Digital laser level #48292
$46.00 with tax and shipping (special price $10 off on-line)
1" x 36" Aluminum angle stock from Lowes $9.95
SS Washers $1.20 (only need one)
1/4 thread 1/2" bolt (my stock) probably 25 cents
Vinyl cushion pads $1.20
Two AAA batteries (not included, I had at home)
Total Parts: $58.60

This is not my idea, but I saw it some time ago on another forum and it looked like a pretty good solution to the "professional" option from Longacre and others, and it's quite a bit less expensive.

Measure your wheels across the greatest diameter. My 19" M220 wheels are 20 3/8" and my track wheels are 20 1/2" so I cut my angle stock at 20 1/2". You don't want to go too long or you'll interfere with your rubber.

Then measure the midpoint of your shortened angle stock and mark this. Then you'll need to measure from the side of the digital level to the middle of the threaded mounting hole on the under-side. Transfer this measurement to your angle stock, mark and then drill a pilot hole to make sure you're on the right track. Drill out with your 1/4" drill bit and deburr the hole. Then put a washer on the bolt and mount the digital level to your angle stock. Tighten the bolt put the vinyl pads on each end of the angle stock that you will be holding against your wheels to prevent any marks and you are done.

If you are okay subtracting the measured angles from 90 then you'll be set to read your camber. You could zero the digital level at 90 degrees but I think that just risks introducing more error. This is probably only accurate to 0.1 or 0.2 degrees but for my use this is just fine. Make sure you use even pressure in the middle of the gauge and don't push too hard as the cushions on the end can compress and give you an error. If this is a problem I might just put some thin felts on either end but it's easy enough to do by feel that I think it will be fine.
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      01-07-2012, 08:45 PM   #2

Drives: 2014 Shelby GT500
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Vancouver, BC

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I use an app called "Clinometer" on my iPad to set mine. Good to 1/10th of a degree. I hold it against a piece of hardwood that's cut at an angle so that turned one way it exactly fits across 18" rims and the other way fits 19". I've checked the readings a number of times against a plumb bob and vernier caliper and they're dead on. The same app works on the iPhone as well, so I use that occasionally too.
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      01-07-2012, 10:42 PM   #3
Major General

Drives: Odysse
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Seal Beach, CA

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I was also going to say use an iPhone and a very straight piece of wood or piece of metal like OP showed.
Let me get this straight... You are swapping out parts designed by some of the top engineers in the world because some guys sponsored by a company told you it's "better??" But when you ask the same guy about tracking, "oh no, I have a kid now" or "I just detailed my car." or "i just got new tires."
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      01-07-2012, 10:47 PM   #4
Sleeper519's Avatar

Drives: 08 E92 M3 DCT
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Atlanta, GA

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Originally Posted by VictorH View Post
You don't want to go too long or you'll interfere with your rubber.
I know, right? Happens to me all the time!

Seriously though, nice post, Victor. I'm going to get my GC camber plates put on in a couple of weeks and I'll probably use something like this to validate my Track vs. Street settings when I switch out for an event.

2008 M3 Coupe / DCT // StopTech BBK 380/355 / Pagid RS29 / Motul / Apex Arc-8 / BFG R1S / Ground Control / MS filter / Performance spoiler / BPM tune // Road Atlanta 1:39.70 / VIR Full 2:10.87 / Barber 1:42.20
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