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      04-13-2012, 12:10 PM   #23
checkmate
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2 bottles should be good for the full flush and bleed. Get 3 to have 1 to keep around for topping off and bleed jobs before and at the track, etc.

I just hit 3,600 posts! Hahaha.
Thank you! Can the stock brake fluid hold for 4 30 min sessions? I'll be heading to VIR which is fast track...

I'd hate to think M would give us subpar brake fluid...
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      04-13-2012, 12:17 PM   #24
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Thank you! Can the stock brake fluid hold for 4 30 min sessions? I'll be heading to VIR which is fast track...

I'd hate to think M would give us subpar brake fluid...
One thing I've noticed about OEM fluids is that it's performance is inversely proportional to its cost. For a first track day I don't see it getting you killed, but it depends on how much braking you're doing and how hard you're doing it. Since it is your first time I imagine you won't be engaging in full-on late braking (lulz) so you might be okay, but you might be done with that fluid at the end of the day.

50 bucks for peace of mind knowing that boiled fluid (probably) won't happen. (Generic advice since I've seen people do some incredible (+) and unbelievable (-) things at their first track days before.)

Oh, also make sure your pads have good life, your power steering reservoir is above minimum, your tires are in good shape, there's nothing loose on the car (i.e. exhaust clamps and the like) you have enough brake fluid (if you don't do a full flush) and you don't have any other miscellaneous leaks. I'd also tie something around the power steering reservoir, since the fluid can blow up under your hood, which is a very common thing on the E9X M3's.
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      04-13-2012, 12:20 PM   #25
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Thank you! Can the stock brake fluid hold for 4 30 min sessions? I'll be heading to VIR which is fast track...

I'd hate to think M would give us subpar brake fluid...
Assumption is the mother of all f**k ups...

However, I would say with OEM pads, the pads will go long before the fluid does. With race pads, this is probably not true.

Part of this is that you should have dry, i.e relatively new, brake fluid. If you need to change, for not much more money, you can add higher spec fluid, such as Ate 200 or Ate Blue that has a higher temperature range. I wouldn't want to be heading into the dip at the end of the back straight of VIR wondering if my fluid is okay!
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      04-13-2012, 12:44 PM   #26
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Assumption is the mother of all f**k ups...
I thought it was incompetence.
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      04-13-2012, 01:17 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LiM3y View Post
Assumption is the mother of all f**k ups...

However, I would say with OEM pads, the pads will go long before the fluid does. With race pads, this is probably not true.

Part of this is that you should have dry, i.e relatively new, brake fluid. If you need to change, for not much more money, you can add higher spec fluid, such as Ate 200 or Ate Blue that has a higher temperature range. I wouldn't want to be heading into the dip at the end of the back straight of VIR wondering if my fluid is okay!
Quote:
Originally Posted by LateBraking View Post
One thing I've noticed about OEM fluids is that it's performance is inversely proportional to its cost. For a first track day I don't see it getting you killed, but it depends on how much braking you're doing and how hard you're doing it. Since it is your first time I imagine you won't be engaging in full-on late braking (lulz) so you might be okay, but you might be done with that fluid at the end of the day.

50 bucks for peace of mind knowing that boiled fluid (probably) won't happen. (Generic advice since I've seen people do some incredible (+) and unbelievable (-) things at their first track days before.)

Oh, also make sure your pads have good life, your power steering reservoir is above minimum, your tires are in good shape, there's nothing loose on the car (i.e. exhaust clamps and the like) you have enough brake fluid (if you don't do a full flush) and you don't have any other miscellaneous leaks. I'd also tie something around the power steering reservoir, since the fluid can blow up under your hood, which is a very common thing on the E9X M3's.
Thanks guys! I have a 2011 E90 M3 that only has 8000 miles on it. I haven't had a service as of late except for the 1200 mile service. My driving is usually a combined city/hwy. Any suggestions considering the miles? I suppose the brake pads needn't be changed considering the low miles right?

This is my track day prep thus far:

SA2005 Helmet
Tires: Apex ARC8 18x10 squares wrapped with PSS
Brake Fluid: 2 Bottles of Motul RBF600.

Figured that should be it considering I'm a novice. Any other suggestions?
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      04-13-2012, 01:29 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by checkmate View Post
Thanks guys! I have a 2011 E90 M3 that only has 8000 miles on it. I haven't had a service as of late except for the 1200 mile service. My driving is usually a combined city/hwy. Any suggestions considering the miles? I suppose the brake pads needn't be changed considering the low miles right?

This is my track day prep thus far:

SA2005 Helmet
Tires: Apex ARC8 18x10 squares wrapped with PSS
Brake Fluid: 2 Bottles of Motul RBF600.

Figured that should be it considering I'm a novice. Any other suggestions?

Pop off the wheels and check your brake pad thickness. I would think yours would be good considering I have 2 track days and 14k miles on mine and plenty more to go. I think a minimum of 5mm and you should be good. But check to be sure!

Bring a positive attitude as well. I don't recommend timing yourself anytime soon. Just get a feel of the track and learn handling. Bring water & snacks too. A good tire pressure gauge is a good thing too. Check tire pressure before and after each session. Bring a bottle of oil too, never know if you get the +1 out of no where.
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Last edited by atruelunatic; 04-13-2012 at 01:41 PM.
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      04-13-2012, 02:05 PM   #29
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I thought it was incompetence.
It might be...they are certainly closely related!
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      04-13-2012, 04:02 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by checkmate View Post
Thanks guys! I have a 2011 E90 M3 that only has 8000 miles on it. I haven't had a service as of late except for the 1200 mile service. My driving is usually a combined city/hwy. Any suggestions considering the miles? I suppose the brake pads needn't be changed considering the low miles right?

This is my track day prep thus far:

SA2005 Helmet
Tires: Apex ARC8 18x10 squares wrapped with PSS
Brake Fluid: 2 Bottles of Motul RBF600.

Figured that should be it considering I'm a novice. Any other suggestions?
A little bit of an after thing, I'm guessing you've done all daily driving, and your oil is at 6,800 miles right now after that break-in service. I'd change the oil after your track day.

Unless it's a lease, in which case, you don't need to change oil until dealer's free one at 15,000 miles. Haha.

Quote:
Originally Posted by atruelunatic View Post
Pop off the wheels and check your brake pad thickness. I would think yours would be good considering I have 2 track days and 14k miles on mine and plenty more to go. I think a minimum of 5mm and you should be good. But check to be sure!

Bring a positive attitude as well. I don't recommend timing yourself anytime soon. Just get a feel of the track and learn handling. Bring water & snacks too. A good tire pressure gauge is a good thing too. Check tire pressure before and after each session. Bring a bottle of oil too, never know if you get the +1 out of no where.
Great advice, especially with the tire pressures. Another M3 owner I met at the track recently destroyed his tires in 1 day. Turned out that he didn't check the pressures, and that even half an hour after his session and his car had been cooling down, his pressures were still at 42 PSI. Yikes!
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      04-22-2012, 01:21 PM   #31
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Quote:
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A little bit of an after thing, I'm guessing you've done all daily driving, and your oil is at 6,800 miles right now after that break-in service. I'd change the oil after your track day.
On a car so new, I'd probably even change it before. Might still have some break-in crud. That said, I got oil changes every 3.3k miles on my A4.

Most or all of what's been recommended here falls under the generic pre-track inspection usually required at events I attend. The organizers have a form with a checklist. You're supposed to get a certified mechanic to do the check and you hand in that completed form at event registration.

One thing you should definitely do is check the torque on your wheel bolts. Do it at least twice a day: before the first session and after lunch. Maybe after the end of the day, which is when I almost lost a wheel! Just don't do it right after coming off the track! When they're hot, they're easier to turn and you can way over-torque them.

A torque wrench is a good investment, if you do HDPE's more than once or twice. But, most people there will have one. Don't be ashamed to ask around to borrow one if you don't.
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