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      11-16-2011, 11:18 PM   #23
///My5UV
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Before the problem started to occur did you always rely on CA, as in never put the key in the ignition? This could be the problem and explains why it's dying.. I try using the key in the ignition at least 30-40% of the time, keeps it from dying I'm assuming.
That wouldn't change anything... the battery in the CA keys isn't rechargeable.
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      11-16-2011, 11:31 PM   #24
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That wouldn't change anything... the battery in the CA keys isn't rechargeable.
That's why I said I'm assuming, because it's my assumption. Correct or incorrect, I can assume things. Thanks for correcting me oh mighty one.
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      11-17-2011, 01:59 AM   #25
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Your right about the fob. But if you always keep it in your pocket and it doesnt recharge, the range will be cut down, and then with the tint thing......Deadness.

After my Huper fiasco (and the $$$ wasted) I did some research and switched to Suntek Carbon. It was night & day better but still not perfect. If I back into my garage, my remote only intermittently opens the door because the signal has to go through the back window.

Huper Optik sent a bulletin out to their techs stating that the problem could be fixed by adding a horizontal slice across the back window between the defroster lines. We tried it. It looked like shit and still didnt work.

BMW put out a TSB stating that NO TINT is approved for the car because of the sensitive electronics.

You can get by with Suntek Carbon series or LLumar ATX. 3M makes a tint that wont screw with the electronics either but I cant recall the name.

Bottom Line............No Ceramic tint.....Regardless of brand.
Do you have a link to your thread about Huper? I searched your statistics, but couldn't find it. I ALMOST had mine tinted 2 weeks ago, but missed the appointment because of work. Might need to rethink it. Thanks!
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      11-17-2011, 04:29 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW Fanatic View Post
Before the problem started to occur did you always rely on CA, as in never put the key in the ignition? This could be the problem and explains why it's dying.. I try using the key in the ignition at least 30-40% of the time, keeps it from dying I'm assuming.

Window tint shouldn't interfere with anything, I'm pretty sure that's just a myth especially with the tints that are out these days, no radio interference etc etc.. Good luck in figuring it out, why don't you get loaners from the stealership anymore?
Since I didn't buy the car from the, they don't give me loaners.

:/

I always use CA

and nonethless, the CA fob doesn't recharge...

but i can't see how BOTH 3 month old fobs are dead.
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      11-17-2011, 09:16 AM   #27
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Does the Z4 sit a lot?
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      11-17-2011, 10:52 AM   #28
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Bottom Line............No Ceramic tint.....Regardless of brand.
Not trying to be an ass, but I think you are only claiming this because you had a bad experience. I have F1 Pinnacle ceramic tint and zero issues. I've had it for almost a year. There are a lot of other people here too who say they have the ceramic tint and have had no issues, so I can't tell you what it really is. Why would this all of a sudden be an issue? Logic tells me that once you install the tint, it will begin interference immediately. So why would it work fine for months then all of a sudden change? Again, the key fob is not recharged by putting it in the ignition for CA keys. He also said it doesn't work with the top down or windows down, nor does it work inside the car, which would lessen the supposed interference from the tint.

On topic, I really can't figure out what is going on. I always use CA too. All of my stuff works just fine. 11k miles and over a year old. Not sure, but the increased battery discharge message is concerning. The key fobs may not be dead. It could be a faulty battery, or maybe a couple of dead cells? The electronics may not be able to read the fobs due to the car battery being too low. That would be odd since the car is practically new. I would take it to the dealer and let them figure it out.
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      11-17-2011, 11:00 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Templar View Post
On topic, I really can't figure out what is going on. I always use CA too. All of my stuff works just fine. 11k miles and over a year old. Not sure, but the increased battery discharge message is concerning. The key fobs may not be dead. It could be a faulty battery, or maybe a couple of dead cells? The electronics may not be able to read the fobs due to the car battery being too low. That would be odd since the car is practically new. I would take it to the dealer and let them figure it out.
One of the reasons that I have asked whether the car sits or uses any aftermarket pulleys. Either could cause a charge issue. Could just be low battery power. Could also be a bad battery. My ex-wife's battery died in her brand new VW with only a year on it.
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      11-17-2011, 11:54 AM   #30
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Not trying to be an ass, but I think you are only claiming this because you had a bad experience. I have F1 Pinnacle ceramic tint and zero issues. I've had it for almost a year. There are a lot of other people here too who say they have the ceramic tint and have had no issues, so I can't tell you what it really is. Why would this all of a sudden be an issue? Logic tells me that once you install the tint, it will begin interference immediately. So why would it work fine for months then all of a sudden change? Again, the key fob is not recharged by putting it in the ignition for CA keys. He also said it doesn't work with the top down or windows down, nor does it work inside the car, which would lessen the supposed interference from the tint.

On topic, I really can't figure out what is going on. I always use CA too. All of my stuff works just fine. 11k miles and over a year old. Not sure, but the increased battery discharge message is concerning. The key fobs may not be dead. It could be a faulty battery, or maybe a couple of dead cells? The electronics may not be able to read the fobs due to the car battery being too low. That would be odd since the car is practically new. I would take it to the dealer and let them figure it out.
I hear you man. I guess if it works for you. For me though, my opinion didnt just come from my own experience, it came from the research I did before I replaced my Huper. I didnt want to have the problem a second time.
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      11-17-2011, 01:01 PM   #31
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Does the Z4 sit a lot?
Nope

It's daily driven about 20 miles each way, so a good 40 miles a day.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Templar View Post
Not trying to be an ass, but I think you are only claiming this because you had a bad experience. I have F1 Pinnacle ceramic tint and zero issues. I've had it for almost a year. There are a lot of other people here too who say they have the ceramic tint and have had no issues, so I can't tell you what it really is. Why would this all of a sudden be an issue? Logic tells me that once you install the tint, it will begin interference immediately. So why would it work fine for months then all of a sudden change? Again, the key fob is not recharged by putting it in the ignition for CA keys. He also said it doesn't work with the top down or windows down, nor does it work inside the car, which would lessen the supposed interference from the tint.

On topic, I really can't figure out what is going on. I always use CA too. All of my stuff works just fine. 11k miles and over a year old. Not sure, but the increased battery discharge message is concerning. The key fobs may not be dead. It could be a faulty battery, or maybe a couple of dead cells? The electronics may not be able to read the fobs due to the car battery being too low. That would be odd since the car is practically new. I would take it to the dealer and let them figure it out.
Yeah I doubt it's the tint.

I got it tinted the week I got the car, have had no issues until recently

I guess dealer is the only choice

The thing is, my M3, the battery discharged COMPLETELY (I couldn't even unlock the door using the key, I had to use the metal key key), it was completely discharged.
No lights, no nothing.
BMW Assist tried to jump it..they failed. Idiots.

I hooked up my charged to my M3 for about 45 minutes, then she started right now. I took a 2 hour drive without stopping, driving at freeway speeds.
Then took it to the dealer and had the battery recharged. This was after the M3 sat for about 10 days without being driven...who would have thought a new-ish car would die after 10 days?

The Z4 though, never sits. it's driven daily. Mainly cause I daily the Z4 over the M3, it's a better daily driver. Hence why it has 5k miles in 3.5 months vs the M3 that has 10k in 11 months



Anyways, I hooked the Z4 up to my charger for about 20 min last night, no more increased battery discharged warning
However, CA still does not work.

My next step: hook it up again for another 20 mins (I really need to order that damn battery tender so i can keep it plugged in without worrying about overcharging the battery), then I'm going to scan it with my BT Cable and get rid of the codes.

I'm guessing maybe the codes aren't letting it function back to normal.

I know clearing the codes won't let the dealer see them, but I'll just get a printout before clearing them and give it to them if I absolutely have to take it in
Plus, if the problem persists, the codes will be thrown again. I know this as I had to deal with clearing codes all the time with my 335i.


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One of the reasons that I have asked whether the car sits or uses any aftermarket pulleys. Either could cause a charge issue. Could just be low battery power. Could also be a bad battery. My ex-wife's battery died in her brand new VW with only a year on it.
It could be bad, yeah.

Once I charge it again, and clear the codes, if the problem persists, I'll take it back in

I need to deactivate my SmartTop though.

I thought maybe it was the ST draining the battery, but if that's the case, why was my previous Z4 fine? Why is my M3 fine? Why was my 335i fine?
Why was this Z4 fine until now?
This is why I don't think it's related to the SmartTop, as the ST has never caused me any battery related issues in the past; and I've had it on all my BMW verts
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      11-17-2011, 03:58 PM   #32
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Could be something's wrong with the smarttop and it's loading the battery differently than previous ones you've had. Also they might have made a minor change between model years on the Z4 that's interacting badly with it. You'd probably notice something big like a smaller battery, but there could be some more subtle change in the controllers... This is all assuming that the car battery getting low is affecting the CA electronics. Leaving the car on a trickle charger and testing it should tell you more, and so would putting a voltmeter on the battery...
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      11-17-2011, 04:29 PM   #33
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Could be something's wrong with the smarttop and it's loading the battery differently than previous ones you've had. Also they might have made a minor change between model years on the Z4 that's interacting badly with it. You'd probably notice something big like a smaller battery, but there could be some more subtle change in the controllers... This is all assuming that the car battery getting low is affecting the CA electronics. Leaving the car on a trickle charger and testing it should tell you more, and so would putting a voltmeter on the battery...
How do I put a voltmeter on the battery?

Unlike my e93, the Z4 battery is easy to access so I'd love to try this

Last edited by persian54; 11-17-2011 at 04:37 PM.
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      11-17-2011, 04:36 PM   #34
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How do I put a voltmeter on the batter?

Unlike my e93, the Z4 battery is easy to access so I'd love to try this
Red to positive, black to negative. Get a reading and then watch to see if the voltage drops at all.
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      11-17-2011, 04:38 PM   #35
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Red to positive, black to negative. Get a reading and then watch to see if the voltage drops at all.
can't find a good one on amazon...
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      11-17-2011, 05:02 PM   #36
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A car parts store or a radio shack will a multimeter for under $20. One you buy at a car parts store might even tell you the expected Voltage range.
Just make sure it's set to measure Voltage, and not Amperage or resistance (Ohms), or you could turn it into a $20 doorstop.

Generally you want to see over 14 volts with the car running and at least 12 with the engine off, but the exact numbers can vary. In the old days the owner's manual would tell you.
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      11-17-2011, 06:02 PM   #37
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can't find a good one on amazon...
If you were closer, you could just stop by and I would do it for you.
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      11-17-2011, 06:06 PM   #38
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If you were closer, you could just stop by and I would do it for you.
Yeah Anaheim isn't close

If I was near Anaheim I could easily stop by EAS too. They're great.
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      11-17-2011, 06:09 PM   #39
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Hell, take the battery to an Autozone and they'll test it for free... if it's fine, pick up a multimeter and dig further yourself...
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      11-17-2011, 06:12 PM   #40
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Hell, take the battery to an Autozone and they'll test it for free... if it's fine, pick up a multimeter and dig further yourself...
I may just take it to the dealer and have them check it while I wait

It's just a pain since without a loaner, my mom, who I bought the car for, won't have anything to drive.
She can't drive my M3. the one time I let her, she scraped up the entire bottom of my front bumper.... she doesn't even want to touch it anymore lol

Or take it to Autozone...

But I mean, if the battery is the problem...why didn't it get fixed after i plugged it into my charger for 20 minutes?
the battery discharge warning has gone away..
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      11-17-2011, 09:34 PM   #41
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If CA still wasn't working when the car was on the charger, I'd kinda lean toward the battery not being the only problem... if the battery had a bad cell it could prevent a trickle charger from reaching normal voltage, but I'd think it couldn't even start if that were the case. I can only guess without laying hands on it :-(
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      11-18-2011, 04:04 AM   #42
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If CA still wasn't working when the car was on the charger, I'd kinda lean toward the battery not being the only problem... if the battery had a bad cell it could prevent a trickle charger from reaching normal voltage, but I'd think it couldn't even start if that were the case. I can only guess without laying hands on it :-(
Ok here is a strange little "update"

After I hooked it up to the charger for a bit, the CA half works.... it will lock/unlock the car, but I cannot turn it on. It doesn't recognize that the key is in the car. I get the Symbol with a line through the key.

Weird...
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      11-18-2011, 08:03 AM   #43
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Interesting.... I get the slash through the key sometimes but it starts anyway on the second attempt... in retrospect this is usually when the second key is in proximity to the car, so it could be simple interference for me... I'm not sure what's going on in your car.

To be clear, the smarttop and tint have been on this car for months, and only recently did the CA start acting up? If you weren't in Cali I'd guess the cold weather is somehow responsible....
Do you have the problem everywhere, or only at home? Maybe a neighbor just got a HAM radio or something!?
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      11-18-2011, 09:09 AM   #44
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Ok here is a strange little "update"

After I hooked it up to the charger for a bit, the CA half works.... it will lock/unlock the car, but I cannot turn it on. It doesn't recognize that the key is in the car. I get the Symbol with a line through the key.

Weird...
How long was it on the charger? Does your charger have the ability to tell you when the battery is fully charged?
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