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      11-01-2011, 11:25 PM   #1
Caspita
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Considering my first track day this weekend

My car is only 1900 miles in, but I've been itching for quite some time for a track event. I'm considering signing up for this weekend at PBIR. I was talking to a close family friend who is licensed to teach at HPDE events and he stressed that changing out the brake fluid was a must. He obviously recommended Castrol SRF. Guess I just wanted some feedback as to what some of you thought....if its needed, and if SRF is the way to go. If it makes any difference my car is pretty much stock outside of exhaust and some spacers (have to admit that I am a little nervous and anxious about signing up for my first event in the M).
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      11-01-2011, 11:35 PM   #2
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Do it you'll love it! Think SRF might be overkill for the first time but better safe than sorry, have fun
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      11-01-2011, 11:49 PM   #3
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Quote:
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Do it you'll love it! Think SRF might be overkill for the first time but better safe than sorry, have fun
An Other fluid you recommend...by the way absolutely love your car.
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      11-01-2011, 11:49 PM   #4
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If you car is new and 1900 miles, may not even need to do fluid change. But it doesn't hurt to be safe than sorry

If it makes you feel any better, my M3 lost her virginity at 800 miles at Watkins Glen
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      11-02-2011, 12:06 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rldzhao View Post
If you car is new and 1900 miles, may not even need to do fluid change. But it doesn't hurt to be safe than sorry

If it makes you feel any better, my M3 lost her virginity at 800 miles at Watkins Glen
I definitely prefer to be safe than sorry. My friend wanted me to sign up for my first track day the week I got my car. It does make me feel slightly better knowing people have tracked their car that early on...and by the looks of it you obviously don't regret it!
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      11-02-2011, 06:43 AM   #6
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First time out, you can run stock without a problem if you are new to tracking. Eventually, you will want to start upgrades to fluid, steel lines and pads, then tires...maybe some Eibach or H&R springs. The OEM fluid is not crap and will handle noobie track days. I had about 2K on my car when I first went out.

I use Ate 200 fluid. I tried super blue, but when it dyed the lines blue, I went for the yellow stuff. It is relatively cheap, so I flush with a fresh can. I did it three times this year.

I have tracked my M three seasons now. First season, I did six days stock. In the last event of that season, I glazed my rotors (wobbling under braking), which was a sign for me that I was now outside operating spec of the OEM equipment. I chose to upgrade pads, lines, fluid, wheels, tires (Nitto NT-05) and I added Eibach springs for the next season.

There is plenty of advice on this section of the forum to steer your choices. See the sticky section. This is where I got a lead for my upgrades, followed by chats with M drivers in the next classes up.

Good luck and have fun!
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      11-02-2011, 08:35 AM   #7
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With so little miles on the car, I would think that you are fine as is. I doubt that you will be maximizing your systems all that much during your first event, however, your choice on what to do. Changing brake fluid is not all that expensive, and if it gives you peace of mind, do it. Most important - -

Have fun at the event.
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      11-02-2011, 09:24 AM   #8
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I would recommend to do the fluid. If you upgrade the fluid it is one less thing you will have on your mind at the track. That way you do not have to worry and you can concentrate on learning how to drive on track.
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      11-02-2011, 09:27 AM   #9
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+1 on this. You don't have to do anything if it is your first track day. You better not go full throttle too much anyways (ie, limit your speed on the straights). Just learn the course, learn the line, learn to be smooth.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LiM3y View Post
First time out, you can run stock without a problem if you are new to tracking. Eventually, you will want to start upgrades to fluid, steel lines and pads, then tires...maybe some Eibach or H&R springs. The OEM fluid is not crap and will handle noobie track days. I had about 2K on my car when I first went out.

I use Ate 200 fluid. I tried super blue, but when it dyed the lines blue, I went for the yellow stuff. It is relatively cheap, so I flush with a fresh can. I did it three times this year.

I have tracked my M three seasons now. First season, I did six days stock. In the last event of that season, I glazed my rotors (wobbling under braking), which was a sign for me that I was now outside operating spec of the OEM equipment. I chose to upgrade pads, lines, fluid, wheels, tires (Nitto NT-05) and I added Eibach springs for the next season.

There is plenty of advice on this section of the forum to steer your choices. See the sticky section. This is where I got a lead for my upgrades, followed by chats with M drivers in the next classes up.

Good luck and have fun!
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      11-02-2011, 10:06 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LiM3y View Post
First time out, you can run stock without a problem if you are new to tracking. Eventually, you will want to start upgrades to fluid, steel lines and pads, then tires...maybe some Eibach or H&R springs. The OEM fluid is not crap and will handle noobie track days. I had about 2K on my car when I first went out.

I use Ate 200 fluid. I tried super blue, but when it dyed the lines blue, I went for the yellow stuff. It is relatively cheap, so I flush with a fresh can. I did it three times this year.

I have tracked my M three seasons now. First season, I did six days stock. In the last event of that season, I glazed my rotors (wobbling under braking), which was a sign for me that I was now outside operating spec of the OEM equipment. I chose to upgrade pads, lines, fluid, wheels, tires (Nitto NT-05) and I added Eibach springs for the next season.

There is plenty of advice on this section of the forum to steer your choices. See the sticky section. This is where I got a lead for my upgrades, followed by chats with M drivers in the next classes up.

Good luck and have fun!
Thank you for chiming in, it is much appreciated.

Quote:
Originally Posted by von_zoom View Post
With so little miles on the car, I would think that you are fine as is. I doubt that you will be maximizing your systems all that much during your first event, however, your choice on what to do. Changing brake fluid is not all that expensive, and if it gives you peace of mind, do it. Most important - -

Have fun at the event.
vz
Yea that's the direction I'm leaning in.

Quote:
Originally Posted by VSmotorsports View Post
I would recommend to do the fluid. If you upgrade the fluid it is one less thing you will have on your mind at the track. That way you do not have to worry and you can concentrate on learning how to drive on track.
Thanks for the response.

Quote:
Originally Posted by erhanh View Post
+1 on this. You don't have to do anything if it is your first track day. You better not go full throttle too much anyways (ie, limit your speed on the straights). Just learn the course, learn the line, learn to be smooth.
I know I won't be pushing the car anywhere near it's limits. It's not my first time tracking, just my first time in my relatively new vehicle.
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      11-02-2011, 10:10 AM   #11
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I would say run your stock fluid for the first few times out then in the spring change it out for motul or sfr when you will be going more and get stainless lines at the same time.
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      11-02-2011, 11:19 AM   #12
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All the advice you have received above is great. I would like to just add this: Have Fun!
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      11-02-2011, 11:15 PM   #13
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Welcome. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised by how well the "practical"/daily-driver M3 does on the track. In addition to the above, my other piece of advice would be for you to check that your lug bolts are properly torqued, especially if you have spacers. You'll find that many shops, including BMW dealers, unfortunately, use air guns to zip the lug bolts back on with no regard to proper torque value. As a result, the bolts are typically grossly overtightened, which can lead to rotor issues or bolt failure. It's also not unusual to find a bolt or two undertightened after the car has been serviced. This is important enough that some of the more meticulous organizations, such as some of the PCA groups, actually retorque your lug nuts/bolts as you come through the tech inspection line at the track.

Have fun.
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      11-03-2011, 10:55 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paradocs98 View Post
Welcome. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised by how well the "practical"/daily-driver M3 does on the track. In addition to the above, my other piece of advice would be for you to check that your lug bolts are properly torqued, especially if you have spacers. You'll find that many shops, including BMW dealers, unfortunately, use air guns to zip the lug bolts back on with no regard to proper torque value. As a result, the bolts are typically grossly overtightened, which can lead to rotor issues or bolt failure. It's also not unusual to find a bolt or two undertightened after the car has been serviced. This is important enough that some of the more meticulous organizations, such as some of the PCA groups, actually retorque your lug nuts/bolts as you come through the tech inspection line at the track.

Have fun.
Good advice....I've been checking the lugs every couple weeks with a torque wrench to make sure they haven't loosened up at all. I will re-torque them on Friday just to make sure....is 90lbs good enough, or should it be the 86-87lbs?
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      11-03-2011, 12:38 PM   #15
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At 2000 miles or so, you are free to use all the throttle but not sustained, and you're supposed to keep the sustained revs down as well. I did my first track day at 1250 miles and the car was pretty fast even though I was shortshifting at 6500 RPM. At that RPM you have more power than an E46 M3, so you can have a lot of fun and still comply with the owner's manual.
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      11-03-2011, 01:15 PM   #16
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I did my first track day immediately after the 1200 mile service and it was without reservation.
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      11-03-2011, 01:30 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caspita View Post
Good advice....I've been checking the lugs every couple weeks with a torque wrench to make sure they haven't loosened up at all. I will re-torque them on Friday just to make sure....is 90lbs good enough, or should it be the 86-87lbs?
IIRC, it is 88lbs. Don't be too worried. The torque wrench won't be as precise anyways. Just set it to 88lbs, and you're good to go. Don't try and re-torque after your session when everything is hot. Do it before your session when things are cooled off.
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      11-03-2011, 02:50 PM   #18
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i retorque after each session just to be sure. is the looseness of the lugs due to the heat and they will reseat when cooled or are they really getting loose all the time.
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      11-03-2011, 02:55 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chriszeh View Post
i retorque after each session just to be sure. is the looseness of the lugs due to the heat and they will reseat when cooled or are they really getting loose all the time.
You have to be careful that the lugs are not overtorqued after they have cooled down when you have finished. I swap wheels, but I try and let the hubs cool as much as possible before swapping wheels and going home. I recheck the wheels the next morning.
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      11-03-2011, 03:14 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chriszeh View Post
i retorque after each session just to be sure. is the looseness of the lugs due to the heat and they will reseat when cooled or are they really getting loose all the time.
Do it before next session. Wheels and studs get hot during the session, and they expand. So let them cool until your next session, and then check. You may over torque them otherwise.
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      11-03-2011, 03:15 PM   #21
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that makes sense so you may have to back them off and retorque the next day. torqueing while hot between lapping sessions will add extra ft-lbs when cool. is that correct?
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      11-03-2011, 03:58 PM   #22
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