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View Poll Results: Which of the following best applies to you?
I bought my car new and properly followed break-in procedure. 124 65.96%
I leased my car new and properly followed break-in procedure. 37 19.68%
I bought my car new and completely disregarded break-in procedure. 18 9.57%
I leased my car new and completely disregarded break-in procedure. 9 4.79%
Voters: 188. You may not vote on this poll

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      07-21-2011, 07:12 PM   #67
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OK I suppose they just advise a 2000km break-in and immediate fluids service immediately after just for fun. I'm sure it means nothing. I mean F1 cars don't follow that and they have a much similar application to our cars.
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      07-21-2011, 08:08 PM   #68
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Originally Posted by stefan View Post
OK I suppose they just advise a 2000km break-in and immediate fluids service immediately after just for fun. I'm sure it means nothing. I mean F1 cars don't follow that and they have a much similar application to our cars.
I don't believe anyone is disputing the actual service that needs to be performed at 1,200 miles. Everyone seems to agree that it's beneficial to drain fluids to clear out new car debiris, like metal shavings etc.

The real question is how the car should be treated up until that service, and also whether that service needs to be done more than once (like legion5 mentioned regarding multiple oil changes).
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      07-21-2011, 08:09 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seattle S65B40 View Post
Yes, this is the same thing HB posted. I don't think you will find many owners breaking in their car under that method. I wish a BMW engineer could come on here and justify the break in procedure ON THE MERITS. Not with some marketing or gimmicky bullshit. Frequent oil changes early on sounds like a very interesting proposition to keep in mind for future reference ...
From what I can gather the BMW procedure is essentially designed to be the least complex and laziest way to break in your engine for the least money without trying to maximize power or engine life for the specific purpose of minimizing risk of damage. This is the only way BMW's suggestion makes sense from a technical perspective, and in that case it's a very reasonable.

The personal problem I have is that people then seem to think that this makes it "the best" way to break in your engine. It is NOT the best way to break in your engine, it's the worst way, that's the whole point. It's the minimum they can get away with while being the most convenient.

It would be crazy to expect every owner to change the oil 3+ times within the first few miles and do a set of controlled revs with cool down times, nobody but a select few enthusiasts would do that. I know for a fact though that that's what BMW racing teams do and that's essentially the best way to break your engine in.

The problem then comes when you have a set of enthusiasts who begin to think that the worst way to break in your engine (BMW's method) is the best method and they actually spend time and effort to do something that's supposed to save you time and effort. This is the equivalent of spending months carefully researching and manufacturing a fast food cheeseburger to exact specifications.

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Originally Posted by Seattle S65B40 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by FJS View Post
I was told that the computer holds that data and it's pulled at the 1st service and it could be an issue for the warranty.
There you have it, Folks. Number one reason to follow the break in right there...
Actually the car does not store enough data about your driving to prove that you drive it harshly. I've specifically asked my dealer to look into this and what will happen is the car will record certain obscure figures like maximum this and that, but I can guarantee that 90% of M3's were gunned at least once during break in so the point is that anything the car stores is going to be very very very vague towards tracking how well you followed their procedure and it would be ridiculous for them to have a problem with it. Your dealer is just trying to scare you.
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      07-21-2011, 08:25 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seattle S65B40 View Post
I don't believe anyone is disputing the actual service that needs to be performed at 1,200 miles. Everyone seems to agree that it's beneficial to drain fluids to clear out new car debiris, like metal shavings etc.

The real question is how the car should be treated up until that service, and also whether that service needs to be done more than once (like legion5 mentioned regarding multiple oil changes).
Modern lubricants are fairly effective, I know for a fact that police departments don't break in their cars, and just drive them at typical higway speeds with the occassional high speed pursuit from day 1, similar to how an enthusaist would drive on the street. Police departments have examined the benefits of a break in proceedure and found that with their driving there is no statistical difference.

With that said I know for a fact too that if you race an engine around around the clock for 1200 miles without changing the fluids it can and probably will cause damage.


So the verdict is:

1200 mile fluid service interval:

- Driving super slow = safest
- Driving fast occasionally = no stasticialy relevant chance of causing a problem
- Driving at 100% load constantly = likely failure


With that said, the engine is all but broken in in the first few miles. The reason you want to drive it slow after that is because the fluids have particles in them. No matter what you need a 1200 mile service obviously but if you want to drive it fast from day 1 just change the oil after the first few miles.

If you want to do the best possible break in see my link on page 3.
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      07-21-2011, 08:39 PM   #71
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While break-in is not that important on this car, this poll shows why you should NEVER buy a previously leased car.
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      07-21-2011, 09:20 PM   #72
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Nah just ignore break in completely. I'm sure thrashing an engine with metal shaving laden oil will be perfectly beneficial for longevity.
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      07-21-2011, 09:32 PM   #73
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Originally Posted by Rupert330i View Post
Ok so maybe that was me(and not my dad) saying they are never started at the factory but still definitely not a break-in like you said, also Ford, as great a company and manufacturer as it is, is most certainly not BMW quality, Ford's motto, if I recall correctly, is not 'The Ultimate Driving Machine', they sell trucks and cars to a different customer, someone who doesn't necessarily plan to do regular and even early maintenance on their vehicles.
To put it simply Ford sells cars and trucks hence the 100 mile break in period, BMW sells lifelong driving beasts. Big difference in manufacturing ideals will often result in different caretaking recommendations.
Just saying yo..
Ford's quality is as good as if not better than BMW.

http://www.jdpower.com/autos/ratings...ings-by-brand/

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[quote=Rupert330i;10073076]
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Originally Posted by AMPowerJ View Post

Ok so tell me man, if BMW isn't really doing anything unique why would it be the 3rd brand in the world, why would people still buy them since they're so much more expensive then the average car...

Cmon.. That just didn't make any sense
Part of it is marketing again but it is also the total package, but my point was BMW's engines have what? Pistons, valves, a block, oil pump, belts, cams, spark plugs, ECU, etc. Nothing is revolutionary there. All basic components that once again most every engine has. So there is no reason why it would require a special break-in.

A revolutionary engine might be something like Mazda's rotary engine. Now if it had a special break-in procedure you might buy into it more because it has a different type of operation.

Just don't believe everything you read ...
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      07-21-2011, 09:37 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Legion5 View Post
With that said, the engine is all but broken in in the first few miles. The reason you want to drive it slow after that is because the fluids have particles in them. No matter what you need a 1200 mile service obviously but if you want to drive it fast from day 1 just change the oil after the first few miles.
I really don't think whether an engine is at 5500 RPMs or 8000 RPMs is going to make much of a difference if there are particles in the oil. And how many particles are really in the oil? Remember it does have an oil filter. The filter should certainly trap anything big enough to do damage I would think.

I think most of the wear come from startup anyway when there is no oil flowing.
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      07-22-2011, 10:00 AM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Legion5 View Post
Actually the car does not store enough data about your driving to prove that you drive it harshly. I've specifically asked my dealer to look into this and what will happen is the car will record certain obscure figures like maximum this and that, but I can guarantee that 90% of M3's were gunned at least once during break in so the point is that anything the car stores is going to be very very very vague towards tracking how well you followed their procedure and it would be ridiculous for them to have a problem with it. Your dealer is just trying to scare you.
I can agree with this but who are we to know what they actually do know at the dealerships or don't. The factory for this sole purpose keeps us in the dark, we don't know what their software is like, hardware or the GT-1? One thing I do know is when it comes time for a serious warranty claim (from experience), the dealer is usually the first to block you and the factory has the best intent.

Go figure
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      07-22-2011, 11:37 AM   #76
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I work on and build engines for a living and I can tell you that the BMW break-in procedure is a load of crap. The engine don't need 2000 KM (1200 Miles) to break in. The majority of an engines' break-in is done in the first 100 KM (60 Miles) or first few hours.

When breaking in an engine (once it is up to operating temperature) it is important to put load on the engine to seat the rings. Do a few pulls at full throttle to full RPM in second or third gear (fourth would be more desirable however speeds in fourth gear at redline are pretty crazy).

The majority of high performance/race engines that are built by engine builders are dynoed soon as they are built. An engine dyno is the best way to break in an engine but I don't think many people are going to pull their engines to break them in.
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      07-22-2011, 01:44 PM   #77
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I've also been doing a "hard" break-in for my cars and motorcycles as well.

Warm up the motor to operating temp
avoid highway, I do most driving after midnight, less stop and go driving
hitting 70% of the redline for the first 150 miles
hitting 90% of the redline from 150~400 miles
routinely hit the redline after 400 miles (with the engine warmed up of course)
lots of engine brake and varying RPMs
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      07-22-2011, 01:46 PM   #78
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accidentally overshot it once because i was used to the paddles on my 335 and was driving with one hand so i shifted using left paddle thinking it was up, but really downshifted to 2nd at 50 :/

i love how i remember that ahaha anyways other than that, i followed it to the T
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      07-22-2011, 01:46 PM   #79
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I work on and build engines for a living and I can tell you that the BMW break-in procedure is a load of crap. The engine don't need 2000 KM (1200 Miles) to break in. The majority of an engines' break-in is done in the first 100 KM (60 Miles) or first few hours.

When breaking in an engine (once it is up to operating temperature) it is important to put load on the engine to seat the rings. Do a few pulls at full throttle to full RPM in second or third gear (fourth would be more desirable however speeds in fourth gear at redline are pretty crazy).

The majority of high performance/race engines that are built by engine builders are dynoed soon as they are built. An engine dyno is the best way to break in an engine but I don't think many people are going to pull their engines to break them in.
Anyone waiting to get their car or currently in break in should listen to this. I no longer think the break in is necessary as a result of this wisdom (and other similar posts). Next new BMW I get I will redline in 4th the second day I have it and then will get an oil change. Seriously.

What about the break in of the transmission and other drive components though? It might not be bad for the motor to be redlined early on, but how about the effect on other components?
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      07-23-2011, 12:41 AM   #80
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Break-in? What the hell is a break-in?

JK!

I brought my car brand new, had just been delivered to YYC from Germany and nobody had snapped it up (lucky me!).. Had about 15kms when I picked her up, never followed the break-in procedure at all.. If something does go wrong with anything electronically or any of the parts it IS covered as many of the people who own these cars tend to forget and all they can think about are the large repair bills, then again even if you have to fork out for the repair bills you should be able to afford it! Don't buy an expensive car (E92 M3 brand new is around $100k this side of the border) if you can't afford the up keep. If you leased your car then maybe you follow it so the next person doesn't have to 'worry' about anything, but then only if your a real nice guy lol. I paid for an ///M so I'm going to drive it like an ///M..

Side-note; I think the E92 M3 is one of the all time greats in an artistic point-of-view when it comes to cars, so for that I am 99.9% sure I would never sell this beauty which in turn should not worry anyone who might want to buy a JB E92 down the road in Canada
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      07-23-2011, 02:29 AM   #81
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... Next new BMW I get I will redline in 4th the second day I have it and then will get an oil change...
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