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      07-20-2011, 11:30 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by MuttGrunt View Post
So you stripped it off?

Should have left it and just washed it and it would have been fine. Now you'll have to deal with the same thing from a carnuaba plus the added headache of using a high carnauba content wax that'll likely sweat on your black car - even days later. The biggest issue here I see is you're looking for some magical easy way out that gives you perfect results instantly. It doesn't work like that. Learning to work with the great products you have an are using will be of a much bigger benefit.

My same advice I gave you for the JetSeal now applies to the wax you're going to use. It's going to look better a week later after you wash it. There's no way around that.
I really appreciate your detailed input on this matter. Unfortunately I was getting too impatient, and decided to go back to square one. At least no more haze is visible.

Next time, when it's time for a maintenance touch up, I will definitely try the route you explained. I didn't have a detailed step by step process of what needed to be done with your method. If you wouldn't mind, I'd greatly appreciate it if you were able to give me step by step instructions. Thanks again for your inputs.
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      07-20-2011, 11:33 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richie Carbone View Post
Let me get this straight:

You own a 58K+ car and didn't have the cash to pay a professional to do it right?

If that's the case it seems you are over extending yourself.

There's a reason why people don't perform their own brain surgey.
FYI, it was 68K

I already have gotten a new car detail, and what I would expect from the next detail would be a full paint correction with 100%(or at least 99.99%) swirl removal. Those aren't cheap if you haven't noticed. I was quoted $1000 + for that and more than 2 days worth of work. So no, I don't have the money or the time for that as of now.

Oh and also only on a 3 month old car, I'd wait for the full detail at least a year before I start grinding down the clear coat.
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      07-21-2011, 07:31 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tonifyd View Post
FYI, it was 68K

I already have gotten a new car detail, and what I would expect from the next detail would be a full paint correction with 100%(or at least 99.99%) swirl removal. Those aren't cheap if you haven't noticed. I was quoted $1000 + for that and more than 2 days worth of work. So no, I don't have the money or the time for that as of now.

Oh and also only on a 3 month old car, I'd wait for the full detail at least a year before I start grinding down the clear coat.
OK so you have a 68K car and can't afford a proper paint correction detail.

$1000.00 is a little low for a two day correction as I would charge $1200.00 since my labor rate is $75.00/hr x 16 hours.

If you had a hint of a clue about paint correction you would realize that it's best to do a full correction when the car is new to get it to a maintainable level.

If the detailer you are using knows what they are doing they should only remove about 3 microns which is not grinding down the clear by any means.

FYI I have corrected the finish on over 150 new Aston Martins for my local dealer and every new R8 for my local Audi dealer, I guess I've been doing it wrong all these years.

Keep on your current course of action and a year from now it will cost you $2000.00 to remove all of the damage you will inflict within that time.

Good luck!
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      07-21-2011, 07:49 AM   #26
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I think detailing should be fun more than saving money. I started by washing and using quick detail sprays on cars and they look awesome.

In the next couple of weeks I am going to do my first full detail I have been reading posts on Autopia following these threads ... there is a lot to learn out there. Anyway applying jetseal is also on the list....

It will take months before I finish the cars but going to go in this order
E350, M3, E550, 750li, and finally R8.
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      07-21-2011, 10:36 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richie Carbone View Post
OK so you have a 68K car and can't afford a proper paint correction detail.

$1000.00 is a little low for a two day correction as I would charge $1200.00 since my labor rate is $75.00/hr x 16 hours.

If you had a hint of a clue about paint correction you would realize that it's best to do a full correction when the car is new to get it to a maintainable level.

If the detailer you are using knows what they are doing they should only remove about 3 microns which is not grinding down the clear by any means.

FYI I have corrected the finish on over 150 new Aston Martins for my local dealer and every new R8 for my local Audi dealer, I guess I've been doing it wrong all these years.

Keep on your current course of action and a year from now it will cost you $2000.00 to remove all of the damage you will inflict within that time.

Good luck!
Just because he doesn't know what he's doing now doesn't mean he shouldn't try to learn. Like another person said, detailing is fun for some people and not only about money. Everybody has to start somewhere even if its from nothing at all. The way I see it, he hasn't done any irreversible damage yet so a little help from some more experienced people will go a long way in the future.
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      07-21-2011, 11:39 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tonifyd View Post
FYI, it was 68K

I already have gotten a new car detail, and what I would expect from the next detail would be a full paint correction with 100%(or at least 99.99%) swirl removal. Those aren't cheap if you haven't noticed. I was quoted $1000 + for that and more than 2 days worth of work. So no, I don't have the money or the time for that as of now.

Oh and also only on a 3 month old car, I'd wait for the full detail at least a year before I start grinding down the clear coat.
Well I agree with Richie, a 2 day correction would be around 1000. However, your car doesn't need it. If that was only haze in the picture, then your car is relatively swirl free as far as I can tell. A one-step polish should clear that up, which definitely doesn't take 2 days.

It might even be worth your while if you have the time and will to learn to pick up a Griot's Garage DA with some lighter pads and polishes.
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      07-21-2011, 01:51 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richie Carbone View Post
OK so you have a 68K car and can't afford a proper paint correction detail.

$1000.00 is a little low for a two day correction as I would charge $1200.00 since my labor rate is $75.00/hr x 16 hours.

If you had a hint of a clue about paint correction you would realize that it's best to do a full correction when the car is new to get it to a maintainable level.

If the detailer you are using knows what they are doing they should only remove about 3 microns which is not grinding down the clear by any means.

FYI I have corrected the finish on over 150 new Aston Martins for my local dealer and every new R8 for my local Audi dealer, I guess I've been doing it wrong all these years.

Keep on your current course of action and a year from now it will cost you $2000.00 to remove all of the damage you will inflict within that time.

Good luck!
I can afford it. I just don't need one yet.

3 microns is still 3 microns less of what I don't need taken out.

I never said you're doing it wrong, but then I haven't seen your work.

Listen to this guy..I guess that means all DIYers are idiots, and I'm sure your very first carwash was better than everyone else's
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      07-21-2011, 01:54 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by 808MGuy View Post
Just because he doesn't know what he's doing now doesn't mean he shouldn't try to learn. Like another person said, detailing is fun for some people and not only about money. Everybody has to start somewhere even if its from nothing at all. The way I see it, he hasn't done any irreversible damage yet so a little help from some more experienced people will go a long way in the future.

Gotta start somewhere.
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      07-23-2011, 06:47 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tonifyd View Post
I can afford it. I just don't need one yet.

3 microns is still 3 microns less of what I don't need taken out.

I never said you're doing it wrong, but then I haven't seen your work.

Listen to this guy..I guess that means all DIYers are idiots, and I'm sure your very first carwash was better than everyone else's

If you can afford it, why not get the car started out on the right foot and then learn to maintain your vehicle?, 3 microns is a very small amount of clear to remove to have a beautiful finish and with the right regimen you would be able to maintain your car thereafter.

If you illicit advice from those that can help but not really adhere to it your result is what you have been experiencing up to now.
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      07-24-2011, 12:43 AM   #32
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toni, hit me up and ill give ya some pointers hands on
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      07-24-2011, 07:33 AM   #33
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So I applied Blacklight the R8 yesterday, although I read multiple times to not apply pressure when applying Sealant. I forgot about it. Blacklight was forgiving and it all turned out great. Extremely happy with how the car looked after it was done. I need to remember on the pressure when working with JetSeal.

One big question I had was with 2 pea sized drops on a blue pad what is max area I should work on ?
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      07-31-2011, 10:19 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by shizzle View Post
As gthal said, waxes and "[s]ealant doesn't make the scratches go away". To get those slight scratches off the trunk, I would suggest that you use a fine polish (my personal preference is Menzerna PO85RD). First wash, clay, then use the polish. Once polished, wipe it down, then do a layer of wax. If you're going to use polish, I would recommend washing the car completely, rather than using quick detailer.

Using both wax and sealant is somewhat redundant, though there are some folks who do it. I would wax first before using a sealant, as wax will bond better with the car's clear coat over a layer of sealant.

Also, check out some of the detailing that FMINUS has documented in this forum. He uses a lot of Swissvax and I think his process and product selection will give you a good idea of what steps you should be taking to get the best out of Bleau Weiss.

wax and sealant is not redundant. sealant is just that, a long term protectant with added shine. a wax should be applied AFTER a sealant, to make the car pop and develop a deep wet look. if you apply a wax before a sealant, both will wear just as fast as the weakest link, the wax.
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      07-31-2011, 12:58 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leo95se View Post
wax and sealant is not redundant. sealant is just that, a long term protectant with added shine. a wax should be applied AFTER a sealant, to make the car pop and develop a deep wet look. if you apply a wax before a sealant, both will wear just as fast as the weakest link, the wax.
This really depends on your school of thought. Ultimately, sealants and waxes are meant to achieve the same thing (paint protection and deep shine), but the look of each is different. Some people choose to select one, while others will use both. As for which to apply first, that is also a school of thought issue too. I think at the end of the day, you have to experiment with different combinations and go with what works best for you.
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      08-02-2011, 03:16 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by shizzle View Post
This really depends on your school of thought. Ultimately, sealants and waxes are meant to achieve the same thing (paint protection and deep shine), but the look of each is different. Some people choose to select one, while others will use both. As for which to apply first, that is also a school of thought issue too. I think at the end of the day, you have to experiment with different combinations and go with what works best for you.
Sorry but the statement of which order is a bit incorrect. Sealant tends to have an issue bonding over oily residue (I use the words "tends to" to be PC when in fact they won't). Most carnubas and glazes exhibit some oils as fillers hence wax then sealant won't cure and as a result wastes your time and money. Waxes over sealants are mainly for looks. People trying to bridge the gap between the two, getting the protection of sealant yet the warmth of a wax. I do this BFWD with Collonite 845 over top and if I'm bored maybe some Dodo Blue Velvet or Natty's over that. Just a look thing.
To the OP you have several really good pro detailers responding here, you may not like what you read but all 3 are very good and very well known, heed their advice. No reason not to do it yourself but couple that with a quality correction to start and it's way easier to learn the right way. If you do make a mistake there are people who can fix it and set you back to square one. Oh and not to burst any bubbles but a 100 or 99.9 % correction on JB good luck because you'll need the car to live in a protective wrapper, they mar just by breathing on them.
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      08-02-2011, 11:09 PM   #37
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Sorry guys, I'm an idiot. I did make a mistake in saying wax then seal. Next time, i'll read my post more carefully - I was wondering why it was so controversial. It should be the other way around. Some folks do the opposite, but you're right, it's not generally recommended.
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      08-03-2011, 06:11 AM   #38
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Sorry guys, I'm an idiot. I did make a mistake in saying wax then seal. Next time, i'll read my post more carefully - I was wondering why it was so controversial. It should be the other way around. Some folks do the opposite, but you're right, it's not generally recommended.
No worries bro
At the end of the day our paint is way too soft and is easily destroyed ...
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      08-03-2011, 03:54 PM   #39
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Sorry guys, I'm an idiot. I did make a mistake in saying wax then seal. Next time, i'll read my post more carefully - I was wondering why it was so controversial. It should be the other way around. Some folks do the opposite, but you're right, it's not generally recommended.
No worries since the OP was asking pretty basic questions and had issues I thought it best to set that straight. Hope no offense was taken.
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      08-03-2011, 06:57 PM   #40
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No worries since the OP was asking pretty basic questions and had issues I thought it best to set that straight. Hope no offense was taken.
No offense taken at all!
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      08-03-2011, 10:21 PM   #41
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So what would be a good way to maintain the car?
besides the two bucket method weekly, how safe is quick detail every day?
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      08-04-2011, 12:03 PM   #42
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The less you touch your paint the better. Using a quick detailer daily is a great way to microscratch an mar your paint. Wash when dirty using two bucket method, dry using a leaf blower, quickdetailer and mf waffle weave towel. Go slow with towel to dry, it will absorb more and less chance to mar paint with any debris caught in towel.
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      08-04-2011, 01:03 PM   #43
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^+1000 QD's daily on paint that has dust etc on it is bound to micro mar, same with the duster applications. If the paint is properly seales etc. very little will stick to it including dust. I would at the time of washing use a QD as a drying aid which has some anti static properties to minimize what will stick and also as a drying aid it helps the towel not bind and mar.
Honestly Eric offered some hands on tips for you, hit him up. He's one of the best local detailers available, nice person and very knowledgeable. He'll answer all your questions and show you the correct techniques way more than we can describe over the internet. I use him to fix what I screw up and knock on wood it's been 14 months since I made a screw up on my cars. I maintain about 5 vehicles monthly and beyond only.
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      08-04-2011, 02:00 PM   #44
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Quote:
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The less you touch your paint the better. Using a quick detailer daily is a great way to microscratch an mar your paint. Wash when dirty using two bucket method, dry using a leaf blower, quickdetailer and mf waffle weave towel. Go slow with towel to dry, it will absorb more and less chance to mar paint with any debris caught in towel.
damn, so that means in socal you can only have a clean black car for a half day, till the next weekend when you wash.. fail.
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