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      07-29-2015, 10:28 AM   #1
Bimmer-M3
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What do you guys use when removing a wheel?

I don't want to scratch the wheels specially the rear ones. I find all tools are almost touching the wheels when I try to use the torque wrench.

Anyone?
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      07-29-2015, 10:31 AM   #2
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Wrap electrical tape around your socket.
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      07-29-2015, 10:41 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoSHAM3 View Post
Wrap electrical tape around your socket.
do you use deep socket? and what size is it? I have no problem with front but rears are deep inside

Thanks
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      07-29-2015, 10:51 AM   #4
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I have after market wheels, extended studs and lug nuts so what I use probably doesn't apply to your situation as I assume you are talking stock wheels and lug bolts. That being said, if I remember correctly, the stock size is 17mm. A deep or shallow socket should work in your case. If you really want you can buy a thin wall socket for extra clearance.
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      07-29-2015, 11:38 AM   #5
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Could always get these: http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E92-M3-S65_4.0L/ES2221243/
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      07-29-2015, 11:46 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoSHAM3 View Post
I have after market wheels, extended studs and lug nuts so what I use probably doesn't apply to your situation as I assume you are talking stock wheels and lug bolts. That being said, if I remember correctly, the stock size is 17mm. A deep or shallow socket should work in your case. If you really want you can buy a thin wall socket for extra clearance.
I have a shallow socket 17mm. However, any turn I will do will put a stress on the side of the whole which will damage the wheel.

I will try a deep socket and see if I will get better result
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      07-29-2015, 02:36 PM   #7
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Do you have an extension?
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      07-29-2015, 02:52 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoSHAM3 View Post
Do you have an extension?
No..I don't have an extension. I was thinking about buying one but I might still face the same problem. I don't want extension touching the wheels since sometimes I use my leg to loosen the bolt if the bolt are over torqued.
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      07-29-2015, 10:22 PM   #9
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Why would the extension touch the wheels? I'm confused.
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      07-30-2015, 02:50 AM   #10
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A 1/2" drive breaker bar, deep socket, and a 4-6" long extension are your friend. You shouldn't need to use your leg with that combination.
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      07-30-2015, 08:50 AM   #11
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Yep 1/2 drive, get a nice breaker bar also as stated above a small extension of 4inches or so. Can use a short or deep socket, but with breaker bar it should come right off easy peasy. Thin walled socket if your worried, iv found the ones with plastic protective covering actually causes more damage than a nice smooth chrome socket.
Also dont forget the torque wrench, do 88-90lbs on the lugs. I also never let anyone else take my wheels on and off because they always WAY over torque not to mention scratching wheels
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      08-06-2015, 01:56 PM   #12
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Some good advice in here thus far. It is amazing how often owners / tire shops neglect to follow the simple guidelines of mounting and dismounting wheels. Keep in mind, different wheels may require different practices, as some designs are easier or more difficult to work with. I have a good example of this below.

ARC-8 Design: You can see how this race / track oriented wheel has an open center design. This not only reduces the wheels overall weight, it also allows for quick access to your hardware. You are less likely to have friction (causing damage) between a socket and lug opening when mounting/dismounting. This wheel accepts stock, tuner, or oversized race lug nuts with ease.



EC-7 Design: You can see how our EC-7 design (still very track worthy) has an "enclosed design". Lug openings are still constructed to be able to accommodate stock, tuner, or oversized race lug nuts, but the overall lug openings are less visible which can be visually appealing for street oriented customers.



Dismounting: Use a breaker bar, NOT an impact gun or torque wrench to break loose your lug bolts. Once the bolts are loose, you may continue to remove with an impact gun to accelerate the process.

Mounting: Always finish off with a calibrated torque wrench, and set to desired spec's. We stick with 89 - 90 ft / lbs.

Tools:
  • Thin wall 17mm deep socket - may or may not have a protective coating around the outside.
  • Extension - This will keep the breaker bar or torque wrench body at a safe distance from the spokes and lip of your wheels while you are rotating away
  • Torque Wrench
  • Breaker Bar
  • Impact Gun - optional



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Last edited by ApexRaceParts; 08-06-2015 at 03:12 PM.
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      08-06-2015, 03:15 PM   #13
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They make sockets that are coated to prevent scratching. A thinwall socket is also a good idea.

Definitely use an extension to keep your wrench handle away from the face of the wheel.

Don't use your leg, use a breaker bar, a pipe over the wrench handle, or an extendable wrench handle.
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      08-06-2015, 03:22 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexRaceParts View Post
Some good advice in here thus far. It is amazing how often owners / tire shops neglect to follow the simple guidelines of mounting and dismounting wheels. Keep in mind, different wheels may require different practices, as some designs are easier or more difficult to work with. I have a good example of this below.

ARC-8 Design: You can see how this race / track oriented wheel has an open center design. This not only reduces the wheels overall weight, it also allows for quick access to your hardware. You are less likely to have friction (causing damage) between a socket and lug opening when mounting/dismounting. This wheel accepts stock, tuner, or oversized race lug nuts with ease.



EC-7 Design: You can see how our EC-7 design (still very track worthy) has an "enclosed design". Lug openings are still constructed to be able to accommodate stock, tuner, or oversized race lug nuts, but the overall lug openings are less visible which can be visually appealing for street oriented customers.



Dismounting: Use a breaker bar, NOT an impact gun or torque wrench to break loose your lug bolts. Once the bolts are loose, you may continue to remove with an impact gun to accelerate the process.

Mounting: Always finish off with a calibrated torque wrench, and set to desired spec's. We stick with 89 - 90 ft / lbs.

Tools:
  • Thin wall 17mm deep socket - may or may not have a protective coating around the outside.
  • Extension - This will keep the breaker bar or torque wrench body at a safe distance from the spokes and lip of your wheels while you are rotating away
  • Torque Wrench
  • Breaker Bar
  • Impact Gun - optional



- Ryan
Quote:
Originally Posted by ben@tirerack View Post
They make sockets that are coated to prevent scratching. A thinwall socket is also a good idea.

Definitely use an extension to keep your wrench handle away from the face of the wheel.

Don't use your leg, use a breaker bar, a pipe over the wrench handle, or an extendable wrench handle.
Thanks guys for the tips. I will definitely use these tips when removing the wheels.
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      08-06-2015, 11:32 PM   #15
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Is the reason for not using an impact wrench for removal cosmetic?
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      08-07-2015, 02:14 PM   #16
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I have ARC8 on my M3s with studs and use an 18V Milwaukee impact. I do the final retorque with a $10 Harbor Freight 1/2" drive torque wrench.
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      08-07-2015, 02:37 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
I have ARC8 on my M3s with studs and use an 18V Milwaukee impact. I do the final retorque with a $10 Harbor Freight 1/2" drive torque wrench.
how did you get it for 10 bucks? thats cheap
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      08-08-2015, 12:53 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer-M3 View Post
how did you get it for 10 bucks? thats cheap
Chinese torque wrenches with no certification, unless they changed something up.
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      08-10-2015, 11:16 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C-M2 View Post
I have these and they work very well.
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      08-11-2015, 11:29 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer-M3 View Post
how did you get it for 10 bucks? thats cheap
HF tools go on sale all the time. I would not use one to build an engine, but have no issues with using on on wheels. I have compared torque to a Snap On and also checked it with a torque meter.

A lot of people have fancy torque wrenches that they have not had calibrated in years and I would not trust one of those either to build an engine, but they are probably fine for wheels. I do all my own work and have enough confidence in my feel that I am not concerned.

There are also torque limiting sticks available, originally for use with impact guns. I have used them but do not own any.

For those who don't want to risk marring their pretty wheels in a not very visible area, buy a coated socket as suggested by others.
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      08-14-2015, 12:51 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoSHAM3 View Post
Wrap electrical tape around your socket.
I am from Canada so we use hockey tape!
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