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      01-02-2011, 10:51 PM   #23
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with underdrive pullies your now going to be slowing the alternator down with a smaller battery.


you tell me is it worth it?
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      01-02-2011, 11:21 PM   #24
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ok ok, i give up on this idea Was just looking for a quick, easy, cheap way to shave some lbs off the car!
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      01-02-2011, 11:39 PM   #25
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Lol give and take!
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      01-03-2011, 02:38 AM   #26
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unfortunately you are incorrect on this part.
I don't think so. I said with THE SAME TYPE, if you read my post. And that means a wet cell, which is what the car has. And that's exactly what the Interstate (and the Champion from WalMart) is.

But as a comment, if a $20 Deltran battery tender detects what kind of battery it's charging and can adjust accordingly, making a car owner having to code a freaking battery is just insane. By the way, BMW motorcycles are the same way (CAN electrical system), and I put an AGM battery and never had a single problem. A gel one might cause an issue since those require less voltage, and die early if charged like a wet cell. And yes, I can personally attest Optimas are crap (but with clever advertising, just like K&N), and will never buy another.

Again, switching to an identical battery than stock can't cause any issues. BMW doesn't make special electrons . I don't need a battery now because I charged it weekly, but when I do, I'll change it myself and report back. Worse case scenario would be to connect the leads to another battery before doing the swap, but don't think it's necessary. I'd rather trade the POS in than paying $500 for a new battery. And no, it doesn't matter if the stupid car cost $18K or $70K. And yes, I rather pay 10, 15 grand or whatever to trade for something else (which I'll eventually do, as this is my first and last BMW) than get raped over a mundane occurrence like a dead battery. I embrace new technologies... when done and applied properly. Happy new year man.
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      01-03-2011, 08:42 AM   #27
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I don't think so. I said with THE SAME TYPE, if you read my post. And that means a wet cell, which is what the car has. And that's exactly what the Interstate (and the Champion from WalMart) is.

But as a comment, if a $20 Deltran battery tender detects what kind of battery it's charging and can adjust accordingly, making a car owner having to code a freaking battery is just insane. By the way, BMW motorcycles are the same way (CAN electrical system), and I put an AGM battery and never had a single problem. A gel one might cause an issue since those require less voltage, and die early if charged like a wet cell. And yes, I can personally attest Optimas are crap (but with clever advertising, just like K&N), and will never buy another.

Again, switching to an identical battery than stock can't cause any issues. BMW doesn't make special electrons . I don't need a battery now because I charged it weekly, but when I do, I'll change it myself and report back. Worse case scenario would be to connect the leads to another battery before doing the swap, but don't think it's necessary. I'd rather trade the POS in than paying $500 for a new battery. And no, it doesn't matter if the stupid car cost $18K or $70K. And yes, I rather pay 10, 15 grand or whatever to trade for something else (which I'll eventually do, as this is my first and last BMW) than get raped over a mundane occurrence like a dead battery. I embrace new technologies... when done and applied properly. Happy new year man.


i wasnt commenting on the battery part of what you were saying, i was talking about you thinking all you had to do was relearn the windows.

what you think you know, and what i know i know are two different things. you drive your car, i work on these for a living. guess who would know more about them? just sayin.


so this deltran can detect what battery its charging, huh? i doubt it.
funny how both my snapon and schumacher charger (the snapon is really just a rebranded schumacher) all have a gell cell/AGM/wet cell settings.

you think they would have just put a deltran charger together instead, huh?

i read their site (quickly) and couldnt see where it would detect what type of battery it was charging, but rather it would just charge all types.


BMW motorcycles yes have CAN, but its not the same, once again.
that is like saying your E90 and an E31 are the same, because they both have CAN.

two different birds.
in fact, my BMW motorcycle had an AGM from the factory when i bought it new, whats your point?

hey do what you want. if you want to ignore the facts, then do it. it isnt my car, headache or money.
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      01-03-2011, 04:23 PM   #28
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i work on these for a living. guess who would know more about them?
That's what all dealers and techs say, and you still see monumental screw-ups all the time, so I'll reserve comment on that . Plus you folks have a vested interest on keeping that fear alive since your income depends on it. Hardly an unbiased opinion .

When it's time, will replace the battery with a similar one, both fully charged before any swap, and find out what happens. If the pesky error still shows up, the answer is to put a secondary 12V power source while swapping the battery; that'd do it for sure, plus would avoid having to initialize anything or losing memory/presets/etc.

And my bike had a wet cell (new ones have AGMs indeed). And in the past used regular trickle chargers on AGMs and gels with zero problems. Yes, charging might not be optimal, but it's not critical at all with just 1.25Amps. But let's leave this discussion out since the right thing to do on this car is to replace battery with an identical one, which I don't believe you did. Signing off this thread to avoid a pissing contest with this guy.
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      01-03-2011, 06:35 PM   #29
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The problem with a public forum is that some people post waaaay more than they should.
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      01-03-2011, 07:33 PM   #30
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you guys make me chuckle inside........

you guys do what ever you want then, cause im talking to deaf ears. better?
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      01-03-2011, 07:36 PM   #31
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you guys make me chuckle inside........

you guys do what ever you want then, cause im talking to deaf ears. better?
Not talkin' about you
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      01-03-2011, 08:16 PM   #32
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I found a local BMW specialty shop with an AutoLogic that will code the AGM battery for me, when and if I get it. For a nominal charge. They even will let me bring my own battery. They suggest OEM, but would like to see the Deka I mentioned. Any thoughts on the Deka in the picture/link above?

I appreciate the insights!
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      01-03-2011, 09:14 PM   #33
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Not talkin' about you


uwhoops! lol
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      01-03-2011, 09:15 PM   #34
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I found a local BMW specialty shop with an AutoLogic that will code the AGM battery for me, when and if I get it. For a nominal charge. They even will let me bring my own battery. They suggest OEM, but would like to see the Deka I mentioned. Any thoughts on the Deka in the picture/link above?

I appreciate the insights!
i dont have any personal experience with that Deka, sorry.
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      01-05-2011, 09:59 AM   #35
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Fwiw, the Bavarian Technic scan tool can register the battery. I don't think it can recode for AGM though. That is the question at hand.

I will call the dealer tomorrow and see what they will charge to recode for AGM.
Why do you have to recode for AGM, since that is the stock battery type? BTW, my battery was replaced under warranty at 25 1/2 months and 21k miles.
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      01-05-2011, 10:55 AM   #36
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it all depends. if its white, its wet. if its black, its AGM.
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      01-05-2011, 02:16 PM   #37
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Good info. Is there a wet and AGM part number? Did the 2009 have AGM? I thought not. I could swear mine is black.

I am heading in for my two year service and the dealer will check the battery. If it needs replacement, there is a chance for warranty. If not, they will only charge me 30 minutes labor to both R&R and code it!
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      01-05-2011, 06:04 PM   #38
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So I looked again..... My battery is AGM. It is black and says "sealed battery" on the top. I assume this means AGM??

I did not think they were common spec in 2009.

Good news for me I guess?
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      01-05-2011, 08:32 PM   #39
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So I looked again..... My battery is AGM. It is black and says "sealed battery" on the top. I assume this means AGM??

I did not think they were common spec in 2009.

Good news for me I guess?
My '08 was AGM and wouldn't hold a charge after 2 years. In general, though, they are superior to conventional batteries.
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      01-06-2011, 06:10 PM   #40
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Quote:
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with underdrive pullies your now going to be slowing the alternator down with a smaller battery.


you tell me is it worth it?

If your alternator is putting out less amperage due to an underdrive pulley you would want a smaller battery unless you you don't do many short trips. A battery with a higher AH rating takes longer to charge so less amperage and a larger capacity battery would add up to a discharged battery after a while since it never has time to reach full charge. The only time the larger capacity battery is going to be of use is if the alternator is upgraded to a higher amperage unit at the same time.

There is a method to the maddness when manufacturers size alternators and batteries. 9.9 times out of 10 if a car is available or equipped with a higher AH rated battery the car will also have a higher amperage alternator since the alternator has to have the available amperage to charge the larger battery.

The reason this is fresh in my mind is I just did schooling on batteries and charging systems for about a week, I am not trying to be a know it all

You seem to be very knowledgeable and must be a good tech, most of the info I read on here from people who claim to know is garbage but I have read lots of your posts and your info is usually spot on!!!
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