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      12-09-2010, 04:18 PM   #1
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Lug nuts wont budge.... Help

Ok guys. Tried to use a torque wrench and pulled till my eye almost popped out to no avail. The whole car was rocking back and forth and nothing. Bought an impact wrench rated to 340 ft lbs of torque with a 150 psi 20 gallon 1.5hp air compressor. Even that didnt work. As soon as I press it it just makes the rapid clicking sound and the nut sits there and laughs at me. We have 2 feet of snow here and I cannot drive it to a shop. Any suggestions ideas? Seems like BMW called god and Hercules to tighten these lug nuts.....
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      12-09-2010, 04:32 PM   #2
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Get a really long breaker bar and add a long pipe on the other end if necessary. More than likely, the stud is going to snap and you'll need a shop to extract the broken stud.
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      12-09-2010, 04:43 PM   #3
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Quote:
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Get a really long breaker bar and add a long pipe on the other end if necessary. More than likely, the stud is going to snap and you'll need a shop to extract the broken stud.
So are you saying if I use the breaker bar and a long pipe I'm gonna snap my stud? Hmm I might just have to take it to a shop. Dammit. So much for working on the car during winter
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      12-09-2010, 04:56 PM   #4
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first, BMW uses lug bolts, so if anything is going to snap, it's the bolt.
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      12-09-2010, 05:03 PM   #5
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first, BMW uses lug bolts, so if anything is going to snap, it's the bolt.
What's second?
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      12-09-2010, 05:07 PM   #6
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It's more than likely that whoever installed your old hardware overtightened it.
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      12-09-2010, 05:09 PM   #7
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e1000 is right, I've been on the Japanese car forums all morning.
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      12-09-2010, 05:41 PM   #8
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It's more than likely that whoever installed your old hardware overtightened it.
That would be Bert smith BMW in Tampa.
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      12-09-2010, 06:18 PM   #9
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nothing much u can do except use the breaker bar. cross your fingers that the bolts dont snap.
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      12-09-2010, 06:24 PM   #10
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Lug wrench and a big ass pipe.
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      12-09-2010, 06:49 PM   #11
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nothing much u can do except use the breaker bar. cross your fingers that the bolts dont snap.
Sounds like that's the plan then. If and when I get them off. What should I PROPERLY torque them to??
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      12-09-2010, 06:52 PM   #12
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You should also use some penetrating lubricant. Some are marketed specifically for penetrating and loosening threads. I don't recall if you can or can't get some into the threads from the back, probably not. Not much of the lube might get past the seat of the bolt but you need every small thing on your side. Also make sure you buy a good quality socket that won't break (Snap-on is one of the best). You can also try some very strong blows to the bolt with a hardened steel punch (then back to the socket and breaker bar extension as noted above). An air impact wrench can also be a big help. Never use these for tghtening wheel lugs but their impact capability is just what is needed to loosed stubborn bolts. If the bolt does break you can probably extract it yourself. Try to get all of the other bolts and wheel off. Then try the following:

1. Much more penetrating lube.
2. Use an extraction tool (http://www.mcmaster.com/#screw-extractors/=a2tbqz). Drill a hole with a cobalt or carbide drill bit (special bits for strong/hard metals) then force feed the reverse threaded extraction bit into the hole. It then becomes locked into to the broken bolt and can apple torque to loosen it.
3. Heat from a torch will work wonders on really stuck fasteners. Heat up the broken stud with the heat as concentrated on the bolt as possible. get it really hot but don't get any parts red hot. After heating get right to the extraction tool

If all of this is way too much, just take it to any good mechanic. Don't let a hack ruin parts on your car though as that is somewhat likely in cases like this.

Last edited by swamp2; 12-09-2010 at 06:59 PM.
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      12-09-2010, 06:54 PM   #13
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THe Bolt may snap and yo would have to get it extracted, but 4 of 5 won't hurt the car... Use a breaker bar (long as possible) and get a 200lb plus guy to stand on it and jiggle... sounds funny, but it works...
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      12-09-2010, 06:59 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swamp2 View Post
You should also use some penetrating lubricant. Some are marketed specifically for penetrating and loosening threads. I don't recall if you can or can't get some into the threads from the back, probably not. Not much of the lube might get past the seat of the bolt but you need every small thing on your side. Also make sure you buy a good quality socket that won't break (Snap-on is one of the best). You can also try some very strong blows to the bolt with a hardened steel punch (then back to the socket and breaker bar extension as noted above). If the bolt does break you can probably extract it yourself. Try to get all of the other bolts and wheel off. Then try the following:

1. Use an extraction tool. Drill a hole with a carbide drill bit (special bit for strong/hard materials) then force feed a reverse threaded extraction bit into the hole.
2. Both heat from a torch and penetrating lubricant will significantly help loosen the broken stud along with the extraction tool.

If all of this is way too much, just take it to any good mechanic. Don't let a hack ruin parts on your car though as that is somewhat likely in cased like this.
Awesome I'm goNna try all of that I appreciate the help man
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      12-09-2010, 07:32 PM   #15
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If the bolt head snaps at the shank, try to thread a nut on the shank. Weld the nut to the remaining shank and apply some kind of penetrating oil. Good luck.
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      12-09-2010, 08:34 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmstyle71 View Post
Sounds like that's the plan then. If and when I get them off. What should I PROPERLY torque them to??
Should be torqued to 90ft/lbs if I recall correctly.
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      12-09-2010, 08:34 PM   #17
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I'd take it back to the gorilla who tightened them in the first place and show them what a torque wrench looks like. I tighten mine to about 80 ft. lbs. My E46 specified 72 ft. lbs., but I understand that the BMW recommendations may have been increased since then. With 80 ft. lbs. on the E90, I've never had one loosen up on me, whether it's on the street or on the track.
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      12-09-2010, 09:10 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by midlifecrisis View Post
I'd take it back to the gorilla who tightened them in the first place and show them what a torque wrench looks like. I tighten mine to about 80 ft. lbs. My E46 specified 72 ft. lbs., but I understand that the BMW recommendations may have been increased since then. With 80 ft. lbs. on the E90, I've never had one loosen up on me, whether it's on the street or on the track.
Lol @ gorilla
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      12-10-2010, 02:08 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmstyle71 View Post
What's second?
HAH!!!! got distracted at work and forgot to type the rest of the post.

second, as far as I know BMW torques all wheel bolts to 90ft-lbs from the factory. If they feel tighter, there's probably some other reason.

OP mentioned snow so I'm thinking some corrosion or just cold weather is making things more difficult.

As others have said, I think your best bet is a long breaker bar, the bolt might break but it's just a bolt and can easily be replaced after you remove the bolt shank from the hub.
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      12-10-2010, 02:25 AM   #20
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Quote:
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HAH!!!! got distracted at work and forgot to type the rest of the post.

second, as far as I know BMW torques all wheel bolts to 90ft-lbs from the factory. If they feel tighter, there's probably some other reason.

OP mentioned snow so I'm thinking some corrosion or just cold weather is making things more difficult.

As others have said, I think your best bet is a long breaker bar, the bolt might break but it's just a bolt and can easily be replaced after you remove the bolt shank from the hub.
lol yeah i got it off but as far as the snow and cold its doesnt apply....my car is in a heated garage and has never seen snow
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      12-10-2010, 12:55 PM   #21
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Lift it, instead of pushing it.
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      12-10-2010, 01:49 PM   #22
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A 300 ft/lb impact wrench won't remove squat. You need a minimum of 800 ft/lb
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