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View Poll Results: Did you clear bra your lease?
Yes 6 21.43%
No 22 78.57%
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      11-11-2010, 09:14 AM   #1
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Leased M, clearbra or not?

Should I even bother getting a clear bra on my leased M? I know the front end will look nice the entire lease but is the cost justified since I'll be getting a shiny new one in 3 years anyways?
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      11-11-2010, 09:31 AM   #2
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If the car is leased? Definitely NO!

I own my car and wouldnt put that stuff on and I've been pitched by the best of them to do it. Here are my issues (and maybe someone can correct me if I'm totally wrong)

1) They ALL yellow over time.
2) I worry about the paint underneath because our green/tree hugging water-based finish is not too durable and you may have a diaster when you remove it.
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      11-11-2010, 09:31 AM   #3
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hell no...why spend that money to protect someone else's car? after 3 years the car still looks new...its when u get to the 5+ years where it starts getting nasty
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      11-11-2010, 09:35 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyoshi71 View Post
If the car is leased? Definitely NO!

I own my car and wouldnt put that stuff on and I've been pitched by the best of them to do it. Here are my issues (and maybe someone can correct me if I'm totally wrong)

1) They ALL yellow over time.
2) I worry about the paint underneath because our green/tree hugging water-based finish is not too durable and you may have a diaster when you remove it.
I was thinking on getting it but on my last two M i never had it and never noticed any problems with it. But my friends that have M say it the best thing ever. I want to keep this new one for a long time so I am still undecided...
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      11-11-2010, 09:46 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyoshi71 View Post
If the car is leased? Definitely NO!

I own my car and wouldnt put that stuff on and I've been pitched by the best of them to do it. Here are my issues (and maybe someone can correct me if I'm totally wrong)

1) They ALL yellow over time.
2) I worry about the paint underneath because our green/tree hugging water-based finish is not too durable and you may have a diaster when you remove it.

I'm a 3M dealer and installer.
1) for the most part true however this is highly dependent on a) heat b) contaminants in air and c) proper care of the film.

if you do c) very well, the film should last you easily 3 years with no problems. even without taking care of it it will only be noticeable on white cars and where the crease is over time. if you full wrap the front panels, it will still be virtually indistinguishable unless you are right up on it.

2) The film will not damage the paint when removed even after 5 years. there is a technique to remove the film without leaving a bunch of residue, but its not going to yank the paint off. if you have a bus with a large completely flat panel, then you have to take extra care but it still won't hurt it if removed by a professional. actually with the water-based clearcoats and paints, the film is even more necessary as the front of the car can get chipped up almost by looking at it the wrong way.

compare the average cost of applying a PPF every 3 years to the cost of repainting the front of a car and the deminished value and its hands down as good of an investment on a depreciating asset as you can find.

another thing is you don't have to cringe every time you get caught behind a truck that throws up dirt/gravel or at the track when a car on sticky rubber throws everything but the kitchen sink at you while you are trying to get ready to pass.

to OP, would i put film on a lease car. probably not as I don't lease cars anyways. have i put film on leased cars? plenty. if its a dark colored car, you at least keep it looking new to you while you have it.

Last edited by karussell; 11-11-2010 at 09:51 AM.
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      11-11-2010, 09:52 AM   #6
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I LOVE all the arguments about protecting "someone else's car." You won't be so flippant when you go to turn it in and BMW decides to charge you for a full respray on the front end because of rock chips. Then you'll be on here bitching about how they ripped you off.

Last edited by quality_sound; 11-11-2010 at 11:20 AM.
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      11-11-2010, 10:00 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quality_sound View Post
I LOVE all the arguments about protecting "someone else's car." You won't be so flippant when you go to turn it in and BMW decides to charge you for a full replary on the front end because of rock chips. Then you'll be on here bitching about how they ripped you off.
agree - you also don't have to worry about the film turning yellow or peeling during your lease, so I think it's a great way to reduce the chances of BMW charging you more when you turn your lease in - it's probably cheaper than the "road hazard" insurance dealers will try to sell you
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      11-11-2010, 10:01 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by karussell View Post
I'm a 3M dealer and installer.
1) for the most part true however this is highly dependent on a) heat b) contaminants in air and c) proper care of the film.

if you do c) very well, the film should last you easily 3 years with no problems. even without taking care of it it will only be noticeable on white cars and where the crease is over time. if you full wrap the front panels, it will still be virtually indistinguishable unless you are right up on it.

2) The film will not damage the paint when removed even after 5 years. there is a technique to remove the film without leaving a bunch of residue, but its not going to yank the paint off. if you have a bus with a large completely flat panel, then you have to take extra care but it still won't hurt it if removed by a professional. actually with the water-based clearcoats and paints, the film is even more necessary as the front of the car can get chipped up almost by looking at it the wrong way.

compare the average cost of applying a PPF every 3 years to the cost of repainting the front of a car and the deminished value and its hands down as good of an investment on a depreciating asset as you can find.

another thing is you don't have to cringe every time you get caught behind a truck that throws up dirt/gravel or at the track when a car on sticky rubber throws everything but the kitchen sink at you while you are trying to get ready to pass.

to OP, would i put film on a lease car. probably not as I don't lease cars anyways. have i put film on leased cars? plenty. if its a dark colored car, you at least keep it looking new to you while you have it.
Thanks for that. One other thing: What about dirt that settles on the edges where there is still adhesive?
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      11-11-2010, 10:02 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quiksi View Post
agree - you also don't have to worry about the film turning yellow or peeling during your lease, so I think it's a great way to reduce the chances of BMW charging you more when you turn your lease in - it's probably cheaper than the "road hazard" insurance dealers will try to sell you
They dont charge you for chips smaller than a dime
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      11-11-2010, 10:10 AM   #10
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Just because it is technically not your car..yet (maybe), that doesn't mean you shouldn't protect it. You are the one that has to drive it for 3 years. If you get a giant chip in the first month then you are the one that will have to live with it until you turn it in......The way I look at it is, whether it is a lease or not, you are still the one being seen in it and driving it...... Since its not you car then why ever wash it, why ever change the oil....same concept.
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      11-11-2010, 11:22 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyoshi71 View Post
Thanks for that. One other thing: What about dirt that settles on the edges where there is still adhesive?
If it's installed properly that won't happen.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyoshi71 View Post
They dont charge you for chips smaller than a dime
For one, yes. What happens when there's a couple dozen? You really think they'll overlook you driving behind a gravel truck because you don't car about "someone else's car" and they're all smaller than a dime? Let me know how that works out for you.
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      11-11-2010, 11:37 AM   #12
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My car care standards don't change if the car is leased or purchased. That's just how I am.

That being said, on AW forget the Clear Bra no matter what. I can see the yellowing.
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      11-11-2010, 02:02 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyoshi71 View Post
Thanks for that. One other thing: What about dirt that settles on the edges where there is still adhesive?
edges should be carefully sealed with heat gun. no adhesive should be exposed after it is installed and fully dry.
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      11-11-2010, 04:08 PM   #14
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1. Please tell me you guys don't clear-bra your cars so you can travel behind gravel trucks.
2. Don't waste your money.

3. Water-based Clear-coat??? Really??? Can anyone send me a link on this brand new technology that doesn't exist yet, but is now said to exist on M3's ?
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      11-11-2010, 07:01 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MuttGrunt View Post
1. Please tell me you guys don't clear-bra your cars so you can travel behind gravel trucks.
2. Don't waste your money.

3. Water-based Clear-coat??? Really??? Can anyone send me a link on this brand new technology that doesn't exist yet, but is now said to exist on M3's ?
The guy was likely talking about the color layer being water-based, in which case his statement was correct. No need to bring sarcasm into the conversations here. BMW uses powder-based clears at its plants in Regensburg, Leipzig and Dingolfing. The other plants, I'm not positive.

Even so, powder-based clear is a lot more fragile than epoxy-based clears, which were extremely sturdy. I clear bra'd my current M3, but I won't be clearing my current E63 and soon-to-be next M3. If I drive far away from other cars, especially tractor trailers, then I minimize a large chuck of potential chipping. If you're going on a long road trip, I would just apply painter's tape for the trip and remove when back home.
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      11-11-2010, 08:05 PM   #16
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cant polish them to the same shine like the rest of the car, looks lame IMO. Respray a front bumper for 400 or so, clear bra it for 300 or so. being able to polish it to a better shine outweighs the benefit IMO
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      11-12-2010, 02:55 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eclipsis View Post
The guy was likely talking about the color layer being water-based, in which case his statement was correct. No need to bring sarcasm into the conversations here. BMW uses powder-based clears at its plants in Regensburg, Leipzig and Dingolfing. The other plants, I'm not positive.

Even so, powder-based clear is a lot more fragile than epoxy-based clears, which were extremely sturdy. I clear bra'd my current M3, but I won't be clearing my current E63 and soon-to-be next M3. If I drive far away from other cars, especially tractor trailers, then I minimize a large chuck of potential chipping. If you're going on a long road trip, I would just apply painter's tape for the trip and remove when back home.
I continue to hear people talking of water-based paint as being a reason for problems when there's nothing to prove any issues with it. My arguments are extremely relevant.
If with newer power-type coatings, there's nothing to show they won't be as durable. I can't imagine manufacturers using them if they wouldn't be as good, because the technology is fairly new and expensive (the refinishing industry isn't getting that stuff yet from what I've seen). Typical solvent-based urethane clear is surely proven, but I don't think it's to the point something else can't work very well.

Painter's tape is always a nice way to go for long trips. I've done this many times myself. The other key, as you pointed out, is to be cognizant of your surroundings and do all you can to avoid following too close or potentially bad situations. We know that's not a 100% method, but it surely helps!
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      11-12-2010, 07:18 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MuttGrunt View Post
1. Please tell me you guys don't clear-bra your cars so you can travel behind gravel trucks.
2. Don't waste your money.

3. Water-based Clear-coat??? Really??? Can anyone send me a link on this brand new technology that doesn't exist yet, but is now said to exist on M3's ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by MuttGrunt View Post
I continue to hear people talking of water-based paint as being a reason for problems when there's nothing to prove any issues with it. My arguments are extremely relevant.
If with newer power-type coatings, there's nothing to show they won't be as durable. I can't imagine manufacturers using them if they wouldn't be as
Well wise guy, I was refering to the color coat, you know, the one that actually adheres to the car; the one that if it chips, you see a whole lot of shit. Ok, now that we've cleared that up (no pun intended).

You must also be new to BMW. If you had any experience, you would know that even with your entire car covered in clear bra, you still could never drive behind a gravel truck because our windshields are so delicate.

Last, but certainly not least; you have WAY too much faith in automotive manufacturers if you think that they wouldn't apply a finish to a car that wasnt as durable as previous generations. It's called an EPA mandate, and yes, the new finishes suck in regard to durability compared to earlier years.
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      11-12-2010, 07:52 AM   #19
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^^^Exactly. We don't have crappy paint because the car makers want to use it. We have crappy paint because of the EPA. ALL newer cars chip easily. Whether they be BMW, Saab, Chevy, or Hyundai, if you go on ANY of their forums you'll see people talking about paint quality. If you go to any used car lot and look at the cars that haven't been retouched yet, any of them with water-based color coats will have chips, it's inevitable.
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      11-12-2010, 04:04 PM   #20
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Not completely necessary; however, if you get a large enough chip, on return there will be a charge for it. It would be good insurance to get the headlights done as they are expensive to replace.
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      11-12-2010, 07:25 PM   #21
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Quote:
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Not completely necessary; however, if you get a large enough chip, on return there will be a charge for it. It would be good insurance to get the headlights done as they are expensive to replace.
That's great advice
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      11-12-2010, 08:12 PM   #22
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kyoshi, I believe an article I wrote on the topic of orange peel might be of some interest to you.
http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...-it-a-problem/
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