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      11-06-2010, 08:51 PM   #23
NYCMCBM3
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Originally Posted by gemini330zhp View Post
Clay Bar is your friend. My 2006 E46 M3 Alpine white had the same specs. Clay Bar will take them right off!!!
thanks alot man , i cant wait to go get it 2morrow, i herd the the turtle wax clay bar is good


any other suggestions?
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      11-07-2010, 03:21 PM   #24
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just used the clay bar on my car and it works perfect thanks a lot guys
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      11-07-2010, 04:08 PM   #25
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The only thing about using a claybar on rail dust is that it usually just shears it off at the surface of the paint. This is not true in all cases but is usually the case. If the spots do re-appear you need to use the Valugard ABC decontamination system: Valugard ABC system

I had lots of rail dust on my 08 Tundra and clayed it when I first got it. After the first winter I noticed that the rust spots came back on the whole truck. I then used the Valugard kit and the spots have never returned. I also used the kit on my 2011 M3 upon delivery. Although the car never had any visible rail dust on it I wanted to do it anyway as a precaution (since my car travelled 6000KM on train from Halifax to Edmonton) and to strip any bonded contaminants off the paint and get it ready for the clear bra.
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      11-07-2010, 09:21 PM   #26
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^thanks
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      11-08-2010, 01:29 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by BMRLVR View Post
The only thing about using a claybar on rail dust is that it usually just shears it off at the surface of the paint. This is not true in all cases but is usually the case. If the spots do re-appear you need to use the Valugard ABC decontamination system: Valugard ABC system

I had lots of rail dust on my 08 Tundra and clayed it when I first got it. After the first winter I noticed that the rust spots came back on the whole truck. I then used the Valugard kit and the spots have never returned. I also used the kit on my 2011 M3 upon delivery. Although the car never had any visible rail dust on it I wanted to do it anyway as a precaution (since my car travelled 6000KM on train from Halifax to Edmonton) and to strip any bonded contaminants off the paint and get it ready for the clear bra.

It doesn't shear anything off. The spots came back in the winter becasue of...wait for it...the snowplows' steel blades. What happens when you grind a big ass piece of steel on the ground at speed? You essentially sand it and that leaves steel debris that then gets mixed in with the slush and flung onto your car. You won't see the spots until it gets above freezing when salt becomes active and the water ont he car has enough dwell time without refreezing to cause the steel to rust.
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      11-08-2010, 09:26 AM   #28
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best thing I used for them is a product called iron cut by aquartz. it's a little expensive but makes removing the rust spots much easier, spay on, let it work, gently wipe off and rinse. it will also help you not introduce too much swirls with the clay bar.
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      11-08-2010, 09:29 AM   #29
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A clay bar, if being used correctly, won't cause swirls. The "used correctly" part is key, however.
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      11-08-2010, 10:20 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMRLVR View Post
The only thing about using a claybar on rail dust is that it usually just shears it off at the surface of the paint. This is not true in all cases but is usually the case. If the spots do re-appear you need to use the Valugard ABC decontamination system: Valugard ABC system

I had lots of rail dust on my 08 Tundra and clayed it when I first got it. After the first winter I noticed that the rust spots came back on the whole truck. I then used the Valugard kit and the spots have never returned. I also used the kit on my 2011 M3 upon delivery. Although the car never had any visible rail dust on it I wanted to do it anyway as a precaution (since my car travelled 6000KM on train from Halifax to Edmonton) and to strip any bonded contaminants off the paint and get it ready for the clear bra.
+1 Clay will only remove surface contaminants stuck in the paint it may not remove the part of the contaminant below the paint surface. The Valuguard ABC system is endorsed by several automobile manufacturers to remove raildust and other similar contaminants from the paint. I have used Valuguard and have been very happy with the results. I believe Finish Kare also makes a decontamination system.

Last edited by Hawk Lax; 11-08-2010 at 11:33 AM.
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      11-08-2010, 10:27 AM   #31
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Like others said, I think its rail dust. Clay it. This needs to be done even on a brand new car. I've never heard of dealers actually treating the finish right otherwise they'd do this. Then after the clay, polish and wax or apply a protectant.

This thread should go in the detailing section.


Cheers.

+1 My previous E46 in TiAg had the same stuff. They were rail shards that rusted and sometimes embed in to the surface.

No big deal. Clay bar
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      11-08-2010, 11:45 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e90m3_6MT View Post
best thing I used for them is a product called iron cut by aquartz. it's a little expensive but makes removing the rust spots much easier, spay on, let it work, gently wipe off and rinse. it will also help you not introduce too much swirls with the clay bar.
Iron Cut now called Ironx hax been getting very favorable write ups at autopia for metal removal. I haven't seen any of the rust spots on my car from fallout or metal particles since using the Valuguard decontamination before last winter. But if they return I might give Ironx a shot.

Last edited by Hawk Lax; 11-08-2010 at 04:17 PM.
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      11-28-2010, 04:49 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by quality_sound View Post
It doesn't shear anything off. The spots came back in the winter becasue of...wait for it...the snowplows' steel blades. What happens when you grind a big ass piece of steel on the ground at speed? You essentially sand it and that leaves steel debris that then gets mixed in with the slush and flung onto your car. You won't see the spots until it gets above freezing when salt becomes active and the water ont he car has enough dwell time without refreezing to cause the steel to rust.
Wrong answer!!!!

The iron from snow plow blades doesn't imbed into paint like rail dust. The only reason that rail dust imbeds into paint is because it is extremely hot when it is flying around in the rail cars. Iron in slush and water will not penetrate and imbed into paint.

By the way...... do a search on detailing clay and you will uncover that it does indeed shear of contaminants, that is how clay works, with shearing action.

Quote:
Originally Posted by quality_sound View Post
A clay bar, if being used correctly, won't cause swirls. The "used correctly" part is key, however.
Clay is an abrasive and will cause marks unless you are extremely careful, even with a good clay lube it can still cause micro marring. Most people just can't see it, only a trained eye can detect it.
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      11-28-2010, 05:07 PM   #34
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Quote:
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Wrong answer!!!!

The iron from snow plow blades doesn't imbed into paint like rail dust. The only reason that rail dust imbeds into paint is because it is extremely hot when it is flying around in the rail cars. Iron in slush and water will not penetrate and imbed into paint.

By the way...... do a search on detailing clay and you will uncover that it does indeed shear of contaminants, that is how clay works, with shearing action.



Clay is an abrasive and will cause marks unless you are extremely careful, even with a good clay lube it can still cause micro marring. Most people just can't see it, only a trained eye can detect it.
Good luck convincing Quality Sound, been there http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...highlight=clay All automotive clays contain abrasives.

Last edited by Hawk Lax; 11-28-2010 at 05:45 PM.
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      11-28-2010, 06:16 PM   #35
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Good luck convincing Quality Sound, been there http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...highlight=clay All automotive clays contain abrasives.
Got it..... you just can't convince some people, even with documented proof. I wonder why he thinks that there are different grades of clay?
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