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      03-21-2017, 10:08 AM   #1
ericcalvert
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Throttle Actuator Repair - Do I need a BT Tool?

I am looking at proactively replacing my throttle actuator gears with the odometer gears, but I am wondering if a BT Tool is needed after the actuators are repaired? Currently have no issues or codes (that I know of). I don't own a windows computer, so that is part of the issue. If they do throw a code when replaced, will a simple OBD2 reader be able to fix the issue? Thanks for the help!
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      03-21-2017, 07:04 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericcalvert View Post
I am looking at proactively replacing my throttle actuator gears with the odometer gears, but I am wondering if a BT Tool is needed after the actuators are repaired? Currently have no issues or codes (that I know of). I don't own a windows computer, so that is part of the issue. If they do throw a code when replaced, will a simple OBD2 reader be able to fix the issue? Thanks for the help!
The gears are a small part of the equation of issues they will give. I just swapped both actuators out yesterday and didnt try to swap the gears, here are some photos on my ig:
https://www.instagram.com/m3boost/

The electronics were starting to go bad on mine as the car would go into limp mode then with a restart the car was back to normal 2 seconds later. I bought the gears then scrapped that idea and bought 2 new actuators. I was only seeing a code on bank one.

If the gears are swapped you should see no change at all or codes as long as the electronics are also good. But like i said you will most likely have to replace the whole unit when the electronics go out. If you don't care to remove the top and all the plugs go for it with the gear swap.
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      03-22-2017, 10:37 AM   #3
ericcalvert
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n00be View Post
The gears are a small part of the equation of issues they will give. I just swapped both actuators out yesterday and didnt try to swap the gears, here are some photos on my ig:
https://www.instagram.com/m3boost/

The electronics were starting to go bad on mine as the car would go into limp mode then with a restart the car was back to normal 2 seconds later. I bought the gears then scrapped that idea and bought 2 new actuators. I was only seeing a code on bank one.

If the gears are swapped you should see no change at all or codes as long as the electronics are also good. But like i said you will most likely have to replace the whole unit when the electronics go out. If you don't care to remove the top and all the plugs go for it with the gear swap.
Yeah, my hope is that I am getting out in front of it before the electronics start to go bad. As of now, I have no codes or issues so that is a good sign. Sounds like if I just take out the TA, replace the gears, and put the TA back in, I should be good to go without having any code issues, correct?
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      03-22-2017, 11:00 AM   #4
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For errors, just get a tool like the BlueDriver (100) on Amazon and you can clear any codes straight from your phone

If you do not have errors you should be fine without it, but it's a great tool to have!


By the way, there is mixed evidence that replacing the gears before failure does anything. I would not do it. When it fails, you just get new ones
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      03-22-2017, 11:26 AM   #5
ericcalvert
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow View Post
For errors, just get a tool like the BlueDriver (100) on Amazon and you can clear any codes straight from your phone

If you do not have errors you should be fine without it, but it's a great tool to have!


By the way, there is mixed evidence that replacing the gears before failure does anything. I would not do it. When it fails, you just get new ones
Awesome, thanks for the info on bluedriver, I will look into it!

As far as the gears, I know there is no guarantee it will do the trick, but since it is relatively easy to do, and relatively cheap, I'm going to give it a shot. If it doesn't work I'm not out much and if it does work I have saved quite a bit.
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      03-22-2017, 11:30 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericcalvert View Post
Awesome, thanks for the info on bluedriver, I will look into it!

As far as the gears, I know there is no guarantee it will do the trick, but since it is relatively easy to do, and relatively cheap, I'm going to give it a shot. If it doesn't work I'm not out much and if it does work I have saved quite a bit.
this is it
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00652G4TS...rds=bluedriver

Also useful when buying cars as it shows shadow codes and when the car doesn't have readiness, and why. Works for all makes as well.
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      03-22-2017, 01:16 PM   #7
ericcalvert
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow View Post
this is it
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00652G4TS...rds=bluedriver

Also useful when buying cars as it shows shadow codes and when the car doesn't have readiness, and why. Works for all makes as well.
Awesome, looks like I will be getting one of these!

On a side note, I just realized you did the rod bearing DIY, which I have been reviewing and plan to do soon as well. Great DIY, thanks for doing that!
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      03-22-2017, 01:35 PM   #8
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you're welcome! glad you found it useful
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      03-23-2017, 12:26 PM   #9
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I've done this twice, once to swap out the gears (Odo Gears) and again when that didn't work. You can probably guess my stance on the matter.

No additional codes were generated as a result of removing and replacing the actuators themselves.
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      03-24-2017, 05:37 AM   #10
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I had mine rebuilt in the uk.
http://www.rebuild.org.uk
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      03-24-2017, 01:32 PM   #11
ericcalvert
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KFN View Post
I've done this twice, once to swap out the gears (Odo Gears) and again when that didn't work. You can probably guess my stance on the matter.

No additional codes were generated as a result of removing and replacing the actuators themselves.
Interesting, did you have any codes before replacing the gears? And was the circuit board brown at all?
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      03-24-2017, 04:12 PM   #12
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I replaced the gears before any codes were thrown. I haven't had any issues from the electronics. Minor issues with pressing the shaft back in the actuator, but managed to make it work.
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