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      05-09-2010, 11:31 PM   #23
C'sM3
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Originally Posted by Subw00er View Post
Cool. Glad more people are doing cutouts. Its a awesome mod. A lot of work though!

I used race ready cutouts. I wouldnt recommend them. When it gets to be 40deg F they literally stop working. The company is unsupportive so fu RRP!

Anyway, cutouts will give a little (5-10hp) HP but you will lose about the same amount of torque. I know this because I dyno'ed my car in both configs. I would guess that the closer you got to the headers, the more HP you'd gain and torque you'd lose, but thats just a guess. Either way, I cant feel the difference when they are open or closed.

BTW, do you get drone at around 3000 rpm? I'd think this config would drone a little bit.
Yes I do get some drone at 3000 rpm. Since I installed the AA X-pipe with HFc's it's really loud. Don't get me wrong, I can't stop smiling when I run up to 8000rpm with the valves open, but people around you will either be pissed off, calling the cops, or smilling ear to ear and giving you the thumbs up I wouldn't go on a trip down the highway with the valves open but that's what's so awesome about the set up. Whenever I want to be loud and obnoxious I can be and whenever I want to be incogneeto I can be
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      06-10-2010, 11:25 PM   #24
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Now im confused?

CMH


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RRP?


Ahhhh.. help please?

One reason I like the RRP is because warranty and I dont have to weld...

Band clamps on the RRP.
Also they have a remote.

Is there anyone to use thermal wrap to keep the heat down somehow? Ceramic coat? any ideas?
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      06-11-2010, 12:05 AM   #25
Subw00er
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my experience with rrp is not great. i used the warranty to send in my basically new pair of valves for new ones but what i received were refurbished, clearly used ones, and guess what, they didnt work either. its then i realized it was the temperature that kept them from working. so basically i have well used valves now that dont work during the entire winter. ive emailed the company a few times now and they do not reply. its clear to me that they are aware of the problem but have no solution. i believe that when its cold out, their inner shaft that rotates the flaps contracts less than the aluminum frame that supports it and this causes binding. this causes the flaps to bind and trip the breaker and the motor quits.

honestly, its just plain old bad engineering. ive considered boring mine out a thousandths or two but its too much of a pita.

ps sorry for the lack of caps, im writing this from a mobile device.
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Custom Exhaust Project: Bates Valvetronic exhaust: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=253661 -- Exhaust Mod pics in here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/40236795@N03/
DON'T BUY Race Ready Performance electronic cutout valves. Here's why: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...40#post9589740
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      06-11-2010, 10:30 AM   #26
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I've had my RRP for nearly a year now and they're still working great. I wouldn't go with the band clamps, though. You're a lot more likely to get rattles down the road. Either way, you're going to have to cut a hole in your exhaust, why not just do it right and weld it?
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      04-15-2014, 11:04 AM   #27
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That sounds awesome!
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