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      03-03-2017, 10:12 AM   #1
Ccrenshaw213
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Price Check Please - 2 Options

Hello All,

Long time reader, first time poster here. I've been shopping the M3 market for ~6 months now and am getting more aggressive on pulling the trigger. The community here seems very involved so I'm excited to join the family soon. I'll be coming out of a '08 G37S.

Would love to get a price check on the below options and appreciate any other advice you may have. I've driven both and they check out. No engine ticks, etc. but I will be doing a PPI as well.

*I'm pretty firm on buying an extended warranty but I'm open to hearing other opinions.

Option 1:

Year: 2010
Mileage: 45K
Body: Coupe
Roof: CF
Color: Jerez Black
Interior: Bamboo w/ Carbon
Wheels: Style 260M
Options: Premium, Tech, Cold Weather
VIN: WBSWD9C57AP363133
Price: $32,371 - Could probably negotiate a little down.
Warranty Details: 4 Year 48K
Warranty Cost: $4,600

Option 2:

Year: 2012
Mileage: 52K
Body: Coupe
Roof: CF
Color: Mineral White
Interior: Black Extended w/ Carbon
Wheels: Style 359M Black
Options: Competition, Convenience, Cold Weather
VIN: WBSKG9C54CE798258
Price: $36,998 Firm
Warranty Details: 4 Year 50K
Warranty Cost: $3,500

Option 3:

Hold Out for something else Which I'm willing to do b/c I know my budget and will not overspend. The G drives fine but will need new tires soon, very soon.

Thanks,
Cody

Last edited by Ccrenshaw213; 03-03-2017 at 11:38 AM. Reason: Changed Tech Package to Convenience on Option 2.
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      03-03-2017, 01:34 PM   #2
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I made a similar choice a couple years ago (drove a 2008 G356 MT) and ended up with the newer competition package car. I knew I wanted the Type 359 wheels and LCI updates and the cost to add those to an older model was more than just buying the newer model I was looking at. If you don't care about the new taillights or don't ever plan on getting the newer wheels then negotiate on the 2010 and save as much as you can on the lower mileage car. I think the 2012 model competition package white car would be a little easier to resell if that matters. Good luck - and don't drive around on bad tires...
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      03-05-2017, 12:09 PM   #3
Ccrenshaw213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkdore View Post
I made a similar choice a couple years ago (drove a 2008 G356 MT) and ended up with the newer competition package car. I knew I wanted the Type 359 wheels and LCI updates and the cost to add those to an older model was more than just buying the newer model I was looking at. If you don't care about the new taillights or don't ever plan on getting the newer wheels then negotiate on the 2010 and save as much as you can on the lower mileage car. I think the 2012 model competition package white car would be a little easier to resell if that matters. Good luck - and don't drive around on bad tires...

Agree white on black seems to be a quick seller. It's also mineral white which, from what I've read, is a little more uncommon.

Thank you for the tips.

Cody
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      03-06-2017, 04:45 PM   #4
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If Jerez black is clean, Id go with that. If you can get it for 30-31k thats a very good price. It has less miles and doing LCI swap doesn't cost too much. 6-7k difference is a good amount but once you factor in the price difference for the warranty and LCI upgrade, the price difference comes to about 4500-5500$. Thats still a good amount but if you want the 359 wheels and comp package, go for it so you don't end up regretting it.
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      03-20-2017, 05:01 PM   #5
Ccrenshaw213
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Looks like the Jerez Black was recently sold but to be honest I wasn't in love with it anyway. There's something about the white / black contrast that I can't seem to get away from. Will be selling my Infiniti locally and, hopefully, buying the second option. Given recent conversations with the sales manager I'm pretty confident I can walk out with the car for $37,000. That translates to a ~$35,500 sales price.

Thoughts?

Cody
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      03-21-2017, 11:56 AM   #6
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If your driving less than 10k a year the warranty most likely won't pay off.
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      03-22-2017, 09:48 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opihi5 View Post
If your driving less than 10k a year the warranty most likely won't pay off.
The plan is to daily drive it but my commute is less than 20 miles a day. I doubt I'll drive more than 10K a year.

What's the reasoning here ? It's my understanding that throttle actuator replacement is a question of when, not if. That's ~$2K in repairs and half of the warranty cost. Cars falling in my price range typically have between 40K and 50K miles, making these costs more likely. The rest of the warranty would cover any ad hoc issues that come up...and heaven forbid the rod bearing issue.

Thank you for the help ! All opinions are appreciated.

Both options sold in the last 2 days so I'm back to square one on my search anyway.
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      03-22-2017, 10:00 AM   #8
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Gl hunting. I came from a 08 G37 too.
took me couple of months to find the car of my liking. Just be patient but don't give up a good offer.

option 2 seems a little high.
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      03-22-2017, 10:07 AM   #9
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You will need to act fast with these cars, especially if you are picky about what you want. Don't be afraid to expand your search radius and make a trip to pick up the car you really want.

Be sure to get the car's VIN and get the complete service history from BMW. That, in my opinion, is far more important than the current mileage.
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      03-22-2017, 02:33 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ccrenshaw213 View Post
The plan is to daily drive it but my commute is less than 20 miles a day. I doubt I'll drive more than 10K a year.

What's the reasoning here ? It's my understanding that throttle actuator replacement is a question of when, not if. That's ~$2K in repairs and half of the warranty cost. Cars falling in my price range typically have between 40K and 50K miles, making these costs more likely. The rest of the warranty would cover any ad hoc issues that come up...and heaven forbid the rod bearing issue.

Thank you for the help ! All opinions are appreciated.

Both options sold in the last 2 days so I'm back to square one on my search anyway.
I drive my car 10k a year and so far have had 0 problems. The only likely big issue warranties can cover are throttle actuators, and if you DIY and if you use the m5 ones they are only 600-700 each. Basic maintenance is no different than any other BMW if you DIY. Try finding a car with this already done...maybe even a rb change
Just my opinion, but do whatever you are most comfortable with.
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      03-25-2017, 03:32 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opihi5 View Post
Basic maintenance is no different than any other BMW if you DIY.
100% this. Don't buy into the "German cars are expensive to maintain" meme.

I literally just received my yearly maintenance bundle from ECS this morning: oil + filter, air filter, and cabin filter for $212 shipped to my door. If I DIY, I can do it all in an hour or two. An indie shop might charge me $150, and even if I go to the dealer, that's maybe $250 tops.

Sure, it's no Hyundai that runs on a $30 Jiffy Lube change, but there is nothing terribly difficult about basic maintenance on these cars. There is also no shortage of indie shops that can do it for a reasonable price.
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      03-26-2017, 11:43 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opihi5 View Post
I drive my car 10k a year and so far have had 0 problems. The only likely big issue warranties can cover are throttle actuators, and if you DIY and if you use the m5 ones they are only 600-700 each. Basic maintenance is no different than any other BMW if you DIY. Try finding a car with this already done...maybe even a rb change
Just my opinion, but do whatever you are most comfortable with.
Good to know about the M5 actuators. However, changing those may be out of my DIY comfortzone. Again, good to know. Thanks !

Quote:
Originally Posted by dparm View Post
100% this. Don't buy into the "German cars are expensive to maintain" meme.

I literally just received my yearly maintenance bundle from ECS this morning: oil + filter, air filter, and cabin filter for $212 shipped to my door. If I DIY, I can do it all in an hour or two. An indie shop might charge me $150, and even if I go to the dealer, that's maybe $250 tops.

Sure, it's no Hyundai that runs on a $30 Jiffy Lube change, but there is nothing terribly difficult about basic maintenance on these cars. There is also no shortage of indie shops that can do it for a reasonable price.
Routine maintenance shouldn't be an issue for me. Whether it is DIY or a local shop. We have a few shops in Charlotte that are very well known.

Does anyone know if the Carmax transfer fees are negotiable?

I know they tend to stay pretty firm on their pricing but wasn't sure about transfer fees.
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      03-26-2017, 04:15 PM   #13
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Bamboo seats look like ass... just saying.
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      03-26-2017, 11:17 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ccrenshaw213 View Post
Good to know about the M5 actuators. However, changing those may be out of my DIY comfortzone. Again, good to know. Thanks !



Routine maintenance shouldn't be an issue for me. Whether it is DIY or a local shop. We have a few shops in Charlotte that are very well known.

Does anyone know if the Carmax transfer fees are negotiable?

I know they tend to stay pretty firm on their pricing but wasn't sure about transfer fees.
Don't buy from Carmax...I feel like it's where people go to dump cars they've abused the shit out of.
If it were me I'd stick to private sellers.
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      03-27-2017, 09:20 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ccrenshaw213 View Post
Routine maintenance shouldn't be an issue for me. Whether it is DIY or a local shop. We have a few shops in Charlotte that are very well known.

Does anyone know if the Carmax transfer fees are negotiable?

I know they tend to stay pretty firm on their pricing but wasn't sure about transfer fees.

They don't negotiate on anything, transfer fees included. The nice thing is that if you pay the transfer fee but change your mind once the car arrives, you are not obligated to buy the car (you will be out the fee, though). If the car arrives and is not as described, they refund the fee.

Mine was shipped from LA for about $800, if I remember correctly.
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      03-28-2017, 02:47 PM   #16
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FYI Mineral White was my favorite color car, ever. It suits the e92 body so well and I would constantly get compliments on it. It was only available from 11+ so there are far fewer of them.
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      03-28-2017, 03:09 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lve2xlr8 View Post
FYI Mineral White was my favorite color car, ever. It suits the e92 body so well and I would constantly get compliments on it. It was only available from 11+ so there are far fewer of them.
774 MW e92's
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      03-30-2017, 05:09 PM   #18
Ccrenshaw213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lve2xlr8 View Post
FYI Mineral White was my favorite color car, ever. It suits the e92 body so well and I would constantly get compliments on it. It was only available from 11+ so there are far fewer of them.
Yeah I hate the dealership sold it before I could get the sale of my current car all taken care of.

Either way I'm still in the market. Budget is Mid-30s and 2011.5 and ZCP is a plus if anyone is aware of a sale that fits that criteria.

Thanks,
Cody

Last edited by Ccrenshaw213; 03-30-2017 at 05:20 PM.
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