Audio Problem, need some help - Page 3

vtm3 · 02-12-2010, 07:19 AM

So I still need to test at the head unit, but after doing a little research, I have a question. I put a relay in as advised. Should a relay have been installed from the beginning? And one function of the relay seems to be to protect the remote signal of the head unit from being damaged. Since I paid an installer for the amp install, is this something that should have been done as part of a multiple amp install, or would it be something I would request?

Technic · 02-12-2010, 08:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vtm3

So I still need to test at the head unit, but after doing a little research, I have a question. I put a relay in as advised. Should a relay have been installed from the beginning? And one function of the relay seems to be to protect the remote signal of the head unit from being damaged. Since I paid an installer for the amp install, is this something that should have been done as part of a multiple amp install, or would it be something I would request?

For OEM remote signals a relay is required -more so if multiple amps are to be installed- for protection and 12V stability. Remote lines can draw up to 1A per amp (thus the commonly recommended 1A fuse at each turn on line) so this is not something that can be easily overlook at time of installation.

IMO, the average installer simply wants to gangbang installations the quickest and cheapest possible, so details like this get lost while customers end up paying later for that mess.

vtm3 · 02-12-2010, 08:07 AM

Thanks. Thats what it looks like. At least I know what caused the problem, to prevent it in the future.

vtm3 · 02-13-2010, 06:29 AM

I still haven't had a chance to do the final test. I had a couple questions as I plan the solution. If I use the 12v jack, I assume it should be used with the relay and a 1amp fuse.
1.) If I have an electrical issues, will this void warranty on the electrical sysytem, or have I already done that by putting the amps in?
2.) What change in functionality will there be? It looks like the amp will not turn on when the key is not in, now it turns on if you lock, unlock or hit trunk, open doors. If that's the only functionality issue, I can't see it being an issue.
I plan on replacing the head unit eventually anyway, once I find the right one and everything can be functional, so I don't want to buy a OEM head unit now and another aftermarket later.
I did want to thank Everyone, especially Technic for helping me out. At least I know what caused it and how to keep it from happening again. I don't mind wasting a few hundred $ to learn how to fix it and what to do in the future!

vtm3 · 03-08-2010, 06:08 AM

The installer says to just use the 12v as everyone suggested. Not admitting that now the head unit in fact would be damaged and that this is just a work around. I have no doubt that will cover up the problem, but if later I pull all the amps and put it back to OEM I will it still have issues. They say no. Which does not make sense so to me. So I am having them put it back to OEM to show that it will work. Any thoughts on functionality? Does the power antenna wire functional only as that in the OEM setup or does it provide the remote signal and therefore I should see a loss of power with the oem setup as well?

roller · 03-08-2010, 09:28 PM

Quote:

2.) What change in functionality will there be? It looks like the amp will not turn on when the key is not in, now it turns on if you lock, unlock or hit trunk, open doors. If that's the only functionality issue, I can't see it being an issue.

This is what my car does.. I'm using the remote from the original harness + a relay. Not from a 12V jack. Although.. it could be because I have comfort access.

Regarding going back to stock, can't the stock amp also use the 12V jack?

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search

02-12-2010, 07:19 AM	#45
vtm3 Private First Class Drives: 08 aw/cf m3 Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Richmond Posts: 157 iTrader: (0)	So I still need to test at the head unit, but after doing a little research, I have a question. I put a relay in as advised. Should a relay have been installed from the beginning? And one function of the relay seems to be to protect the remote signal of the head unit from being damaged. Since I paid an installer for the amp install, is this something that should have been done as part of a multiple amp install, or would it be something I would request?

02-12-2010, 08:07 AM	#47
vtm3 Private First Class Drives: 08 aw/cf m3 Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Richmond Posts: 157 iTrader: (0)	Thanks. Thats what it looks like. At least I know what caused the problem, to prevent it in the future.

02-13-2010, 06:29 AM	#48
vtm3 Private First Class Drives: 08 aw/cf m3 Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Richmond Posts: 157 iTrader: (0)	I still haven't had a chance to do the final test. I had a couple questions as I plan the solution. If I use the 12v jack, I assume it should be used with the relay and a 1amp fuse. 1.) If I have an electrical issues, will this void warranty on the electrical sysytem, or have I already done that by putting the amps in? 2.) What change in functionality will there be? It looks like the amp will not turn on when the key is not in, now it turns on if you lock, unlock or hit trunk, open doors. If that's the only functionality issue, I can't see it being an issue. I plan on replacing the head unit eventually anyway, once I find the right one and everything can be functional, so I don't want to buy a OEM head unit now and another aftermarket later. I did want to thank Everyone, especially Technic for helping me out. At least I know what caused it and how to keep it from happening again. I don't mind wasting a few hundred $ to learn how to fix it and what to do in the future!

03-08-2010, 06:08 AM	#49
vtm3 Private First Class Drives: 08 aw/cf m3 Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Richmond Posts: 157 iTrader: (0)	The installer says to just use the 12v as everyone suggested. Not admitting that now the head unit in fact would be damaged and that this is just a work around. I have no doubt that will cover up the problem, but if later I pull all the amps and put it back to OEM I will it still have issues. They say no. Which does not make sense so to me. So I am having them put it back to OEM to show that it will work. Any thoughts on functionality? Does the power antenna wire functional only as that in the OEM setup or does it provide the remote signal and therefore I should see a loss of power with the oem setup as well?