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      02-05-2010, 03:21 AM   #23
quality_sound
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That was me that sugested the spike, Billy.
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      02-05-2010, 03:27 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quality_sound View Post
That was me that sugested the spike, Billy.
Oops. Trying to follow too many threads at once
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      02-06-2010, 07:03 AM   #25
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More freakin snow. I will get it tested on Monday hopefully! And post results.
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      02-06-2010, 03:07 PM   #26
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I tested battery terminal and no real fluctaution. 12v with car off and 14 or 15v at idle.
The same numbers at the amps. When revved and music cuts off, blue light on the top of the amp flickers for a second.
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      02-06-2010, 03:57 PM   #27
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I tested battery terminal and no real fluctaution. 12v with car off and 14 or 15v at idle.
The same numbers at the amps. When revved and music cuts off, blue light on the top of the amp flickers for a second.
Power to the amps = OK
Power to the HU = OK (display does not flicker according to you)
Remote signal to the amps = not OK (amps blue light flickers, so amps are in fact shutting down)

...monitor the remote signal to the amps and/or listen to the remote signal relay for a "click".

You should see a dip in the 12V at pin 10 of the OEM amp connector and the relay that was installed to prop up the remote OEM signal with a constant 12V hould "click" as the OEM remote signal level is dipping below the trigger point of the relay.

That's the only way that the amps' blue light flickers, the amp is being turn off and on for a second. What are you using as the amps ground?

If the OEM remote line is damaged then you will have to use the 12V jack as the trigger as a solution that does not involve replacing the OEM HU.
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      02-06-2010, 07:23 PM   #28
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why not connect the remote wire of the amp to the battery positive just for one ride and see if it helps?
do the braking etc and see if it goes off or not
you can just connect it to the power in of the amp
you could also wire a small lamp with a long wire inside the cabin to the relay so if it does switch off you can see it
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      02-07-2010, 09:33 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmarei View Post
why not connect the remote wire of the amp to the battery positive just for one ride and see if it helps?
do the braking etc and see if it goes off or not
you can just connect it to the power in of the amp
you could also wire a small lamp with a long wire inside the cabin to the relay so if it does switch off you can see it
Good suggestion...
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      02-09-2010, 12:53 PM   #30
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If the OEM remote line is damaged then you will have to use the 12V jack as the trigger as a solution that does not involve replacing the OEM HU.
What 12 volt jack? Can you clarify?
Can I use the sat radio remote turn on?
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      02-09-2010, 02:25 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtm3 View Post
If the OEM remote line is damaged then you will have to use the 12V jack as the trigger as a solution that does not involve replacing the OEM HU.
What 12 volt jack? Can you clarify?
Can I use the sat radio remote turn on?
Did you verify that the remote line is in fact defective?

The Sat radio tuner turns on by MOST message, not by a wired line.
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      02-09-2010, 03:16 PM   #32
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I am getting ready to have it tested and was just trying to make sure I had the plan for the fix if in fact it was bad. I will test and post results.
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      02-09-2010, 06:13 PM   #33
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The wire is in fact defective. Dip in voltage and relay clicked.
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      02-09-2010, 06:37 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtm3 View Post
The wire is in fact defective. Dip in voltage and relay clicked.
How actually the OEM remote is tapped? Are you using pin 10 in the OEM amp connector directly, either with wire taps or soldered, or pin 13 in the back of the OEM HU?

I would test that line at the back of the OEM HU without the amps connected to see if the dip in voltage it is actually coming from the OEM HU internals or some load along the line is pulling it down, just as the very last test.

In the very worst case, you will have to use the 12V jack in front of the shifter as your remote line. That's only hot when the car is in ACC or on, though.
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      02-09-2010, 08:27 PM   #35
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I will have to waite to test the head unit. It will be a few days before I post results. But I think I have everything I need. Thanks for the help.
I had an eletrical issue with the car that seems to coincide with this. I am almost certain this was happening before, but I can't be sure.
I stopped for gas, and tried to restart and it did nothing. The lights were on strong, when you put the key in and hit the button, everything died. It seemed very much like a dead battery however all lights seemed strong until you hit the button. It did not try to turn over just killed everything inside the car. After several attempts, it finally started right up, and has not happned since. The dealership could not find anything. If the head unit is indeed bad, I would say this would be a candidate for the cause. Any thoughts on what too look at?
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      02-10-2010, 03:41 AM   #36
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I still want to know why Voltage dipped when you hit the gas. Basic electronics says you should be getting more Voltage then, not less, unless it was a coincidental thing.

Last edited by quality_sound; 02-10-2010 at 05:47 AM.
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      02-10-2010, 05:02 AM   #37
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This could also be a coincidence. When reproducing the problem. I attempted it with the transmission in P. Every other time I've had it in Neutral or have been driving when it happens. When in Park and I revved it, it would not happen. I tried a few times, but then put it in Neutral and hit it and the error occured. I don't know how this could possibly relate, but just adding everything I know.
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      02-10-2010, 05:49 AM   #38
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Yeah, parked or in motion extra revs would produce more Voltage so i think that definitely rules the spike theory out. I hope it's not the HU or if it is, that it's covered without much hassle.
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      02-10-2010, 09:29 AM   #39
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Nope. I the dealership could not reproduce the error. I am confident I could reproduce it now, but they said anything wrong with the audio system is void because of aftermarket amps.
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      02-10-2010, 10:09 AM   #40
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Warranty Not Necessarily Voided

Quote:
Originally Posted by vtm3 View Post
Nope. I the dealership could not reproduce the error. I am confident I could reproduce it now, but they said anything wrong with the audio system is void because of aftermarket amps.
Dealers like to walk away, but US warranty law requires them to establish that what you did caused the problem with the factory component. There are others here who know a lot more about this than I do, but once you figure out what is wrong, I think you should talk to your dealer again, then maybe try another dealer, call BMWNA customer service, get a lawyer buddy (or pay a lawyer) to write a breach of warranty letter. It can get expensive from there and comes down to how far you want to go, but I'm pretty sure that they can't just say the warranty is void.
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      02-10-2010, 10:36 AM   #41
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Yeah, once I am sure teh head unit is indeed teh problem I am going to talk to the dealer and Gm, as I received a customer satisfaction survey and this dealer typically responds to any issues. I have a good relationship with them and have purchased 2 vehicles from them in a short time and plan to buy more. If I am at fault, that's my problem. But I paid to have someone install so if anything went wrong, they would be responsible. Now, nothing is wrong with the install, but BMW is saying to bad. Not the point of the thread, and I thank Technic and everyone for the help. One more question about aftermarket install. I want to verify that these will or will not work. PAC 's website says 2007 and 2008 3 series. SWI-JACK with SWI-CAN2 both for aftermarket SWC's. I think I have seen that these do not work?
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      02-10-2010, 10:39 AM   #42
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The problem is that if the OEM remote signal was used to turn on any other device than the OEM antenna amplifier and it becomes defective the dealer/BMW will have all the right to decline a warranty claim, based on the fact that that OEM signal was used outside its designed OEM limits/conditions.

The dealer already noticed the aftermarket equipment present in the vehicle, and by just a visual inspection of that line it could be possible for the dealer to determine if it was tampered with or not. And that's all they need.

By the time the OP hires a lawyer, fight this and loses he would have spent the cost of at least two OEM HU replacements and a couple of days of work.
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      02-11-2010, 05:17 AM   #43
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Will I have warranty issues if I have any more electrical issues? Will that change if I use the 12v jack? I get that nothing audio is covered, but what if I have other problems, will BMW say all electrical issues are void?
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      02-11-2010, 01:11 PM   #44
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hook audio out of your ipod direct to the inputs of your amps and see if it still drops out - assuming not, you know you don't have an amp issue and need to check forward of them - follow the steps technic suggested. if it does cut out, no need to check further into the oem deck, the problem is either voltage related and the amps are cutting out (jump the remote terminal to the 12v with the remote signal disconnected to confirm it isn't a remote turn on issue) or a problem in the amps themselves... a volt meter on your 12v and ground terminals should be able to confir whether it's a voltage issue or not...
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