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      01-31-2010, 07:48 PM   #89
rsmamg
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Just curious if you know as to why you paint from the inside? is it avoid damaging the paint when you hit stuff?

Also, I see you bought the black paint too, I only bought the white.
whats the black for?
I think its just to protect the paint from chipping off when you crash it around. I do know that by painting from the inside, the paint colors that then are visible through the lexan body make it appear shiny vs. dull and flat. The lexan body gives the paint a shine.

The black paint is for the front bumper area of the car. If you look you can see that it is black in the pictures and the directions sat to paint that part black. The hard part is masking that section off as there is not masking decal included for that particular section.

I have taped mine up with painters tape just now and I will try to paint it tomorrow. Ill post pics in a little.
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      01-31-2010, 08:59 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsmamg View Post
I think its just to protect the paint from chipping off when you crash it around. I do know that by painting from the inside, the paint colors that then are visible through the lexan body make it appear shiny vs. dull and flat. The lexan body gives the paint a shine.

The black paint is for the front bumper area of the car. If you look you can see that it is black in the pictures and the directions sat to paint that part black. The hard part is masking that section off as there is not masking decal included for that particular section.

I have taped mine up with painters tape just now and I will try to paint it tomorrow. Ill post pics in a little.
OK- guys, here's how you should mask and paint the bumper: First mask the bumper area in the inside with frisket paper (buy it at Micheal's). You place the mask over the bumper area, rub it so all of the area is completely adhered to the film (check for air bubbles from the outside through the lexan). Then, use a NEW X-Acto to cut the film around the bumper edges, carefully not to cut too deeply into the lexan- it should just mar it slightly, then remove excess. Rub the new edge so that there are no air gaps. Now you will have an area masked off for your bumper. Paint the body from the inside white (I assume that the windows are masked with mask material from the kit). Let the white dry, now this is IMPORTANT- back the white paint up with silver. Let that dry overnight, then remove the bumper mask only. Spray your black into the clear area where the bumper mask hwas. Let it dry again- remove your window masks, and your are ready to detail it out.

If you try the above without backing it with silver, you risk the black bleeding through the white. Good Luck!

EDIT: I see your picture now where you are masking it out for the black first- Not the easiest way to do it, but it will work. The way I describe above is the way most detail is added- for example stripes, flames etc. The smallest area is done last- think working backwards when you paint from the inside.
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      01-31-2010, 09:41 PM   #91
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that is a good idea.

my method did take me some time and it wont produce nice perfect curves.

i might head to michaels tomorrow and see what i can find.
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      01-31-2010, 10:01 PM   #92
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can't wait to see it finished already... and in motion would be great!
can't believe it has all the light and everything... unbelievable.
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      02-01-2010, 01:54 AM   #93
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I still can't believe noone's using a spray mask. You don't have to worry about pressing it into corners or anything. It kicks the crap out of tape or paper.
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      02-01-2010, 10:25 AM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quality_sound View Post
I still can't believe noone's using a spray mask. You don't have to worry about pressing it into corners or anything. It kicks the crap out of tape or paper.
I havent got to the paint part yet,
whats this spray mask you speak of?
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      02-01-2010, 10:29 AM   #95
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Most of my mechanics are finished, im on to part C of the build and for the first time I am confused about the electronics. I bought the Futaba R/C and Im not sure which parts to use from the Futaba box and which parts to use from the car itself. Do I still use the Speed Controller which came with the car (TEU-101BK)?

Why is there a power on/off switch with the wiring in the Futaba box?
Im lost right now

My progress so far:
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      02-01-2010, 12:06 PM   #96
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Your ESC (electronic speed controller) should only have the on/off switch. What type of futaba receiver is it? Try to post pics of your equipment so perhaps we can help you out.
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      02-01-2010, 12:57 PM   #97
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Originally Posted by Poppin Fresh View Post
Your ESC (electronic speed controller) should only have the on/off switch. What type of futaba receiver is it? Try to post pics of your equipment so perhaps we can help you out.
thanks man, here is what I have.

the bottom picture is the speed controller that came with my Tamiya kit.

but in the Futaba box, there is another on/off switch. whats that for?
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      02-01-2010, 01:23 PM   #98
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That extra switch in the Futaba box is for nitro/gas powered R/C cars only. Use the switch that is already attached to the ESC. Good luck and happy building.
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      02-01-2010, 01:40 PM   #99
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OK here we go. I was confused about this part too. I remember having the hobby shop people helping me out.. but its pretty easy.

1. There are 3 main "wiring" components in the car, the speed controller, the receiver, and the servo.

2. The speed controller: the black box that came with the tamiya car (TEU-101BK). This has 6 sets of wirers. The orange and blue go to the motor, the red and black go to the 6-cell battery, which you have to purchase, the smaller red/black that are together go to the on/off switch, which you screw into place on the chassis by the motor, and the small red/black/white wires which are attached together go to the receiver.

3. The receiver is the smaller Futaba unit that came with the Futaba RC (it looks like we have the same type) It says onn it: Futaba 2 channel receiver AM.

4. The servo is the mechanism that is responsible for the cars steering left and right. There are two of them that came with the Futaba RC box. Take one of them out and you will see it has an airplane propeller plastic thing attached to it. That is supposed to come off, but is there so that you can easily tell that is it in the neutral position. I didnt take good precaution of this and now when I turn on my car it is slightly pointing to the right. Not a big deal, just make sure that before you take it off, you read the directions to see which position it needs to be in (i am too lazy to do that and just put it on. its not a huge deal you can fix it with the trim button on the RC itself).

So the servo, receiver, and the speed controller need to all be attached to each other and to the battery and motor. Then you program the RC to work with the receiver in the car. There is one white wire coming from the receiver that is very long. That is to go in that thin long plastic tube so that it can read the signal from driving the car far away.
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      02-01-2010, 02:00 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slammedm3 View Post
I havent got to the paint part yet,
whats this spray mask you speak of?
Here you go. You can spray it with an airbrush gun or use a brush and paint it on.


http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...CH=liquid+mask
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      02-01-2010, 02:03 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poppin Fresh View Post
That extra switch in the Futaba box is for nitro/gas powered R/C cars only. Use the switch that is already attached to the ESC. Good luck and happy building.
ya i just figured that out by calling the hobby shop and he explained that to me. thanks for the tip tho

Quote:
Originally Posted by rsmamg View Post
OK here we go. I was confused about this part too. I remember having the hobby shop people helping me out.. but its pretty easy.

1. There are 3 main "wiring" components in the car, the speed controller, the receiver, and the servo.

2. The speed controller: the black box that came with the tamiya car (TEU-101BK). This has 6 sets of wirers. The orange and blue go to the motor, the red and black go to the 6-cell battery, which you have to purchase, the smaller red/black that are together go to the on/off switch, which you screw into place on the chassis by the motor, and the small red/black/white wires which are attached together go to the receiver.

3. The receiver is the smaller Futaba unit that came with the Futaba RC (it looks like we have the same type) It says onn it: Futaba 2 channel receiver AM.

4. The servo is the mechanism that is responsible for the cars steering left and right. There are two of them that came with the Futaba RC box. Take one of them out and you will see it has an airplane propeller plastic thing attached to it. That is supposed to come off, but is there so that you can easily tell that is it in the neutral position. I didnt take good precaution of this and now when I turn on my car it is slightly pointing to the right. Not a big deal, just make sure that before you take it off, you read the directions to see which position it needs to be in (i am too lazy to do that and just put it on. its not a huge deal you can fix it with the trim button on the RC itself).

So the servo, receiver, and the speed controller need to all be attached to each other and to the battery and motor. Then you program the RC to work with the receiver in the car. There is one white wire coming from the receiver that is very long. That is to go in that thin long plastic tube so that it can read the signal from driving the car far away.

Ok, I will give it another go tonight. your description helps. Btw, what is in the picture, next to speed controller, under the Futaba reciever, what is that black box? the LEDs?

And 1 other question, for the power switch. do you unscrew those 2 small screws that are on top and below the ON/OFF switch and use those screws to tighten it in place to the chassis?
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      02-01-2010, 02:13 PM   #102
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Yes you unscrew those two screws. They are very small so be careful not to lose them. Then you screw the on/off switch onto the chassis from the outside bottom. The black box under the receiver is the servo. The LEDs are not pictured here. Once I paint the body I will attach the LED box somewhere to the inside of the body.
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      02-01-2010, 05:17 PM   #103
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I'm thinking of going with a slightly different approach than the full kit. The body is $30.00. There's a TT01R Type E chassis I've been able to source for about $130. The type R chassis has adjustable ground clearance, camber, caster, oil-filled shocks, aluminum drive shaft, 25 turn motor, etc.

Experts, any reason not to go this route?
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      02-01-2010, 05:58 PM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Finnegan View Post
I'm thinking of going with a slightly different approach than the full kit. The body is $30.00. There's a TT01R Type E chassis I've been able to source for about $130. The type R chassis has adjustable ground clearance, camber, caster, oil-filled shocks, aluminum drive shaft, 25 turn motor, etc.

Experts, any reason not to go this route?
Yes, the Type R is a little more advanced. Since I could not find any M3 GT2 bodies, i got this kit and will most likely buy the hop up options and modify it accordingly. Good choice though.
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      02-01-2010, 06:24 PM   #105
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I have started painting
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      02-01-2010, 06:41 PM   #106
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      02-01-2010, 07:01 PM   #107
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^ Nice!
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      02-01-2010, 08:41 PM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Finnegan View Post
I'm thinking of going with a slightly different approach than the full kit. The body is $30.00. There's a TT01R Type E chassis I've been able to source for about $130. The type R chassis has adjustable ground clearance, camber, caster, oil-filled shocks, aluminum drive shaft, 25 turn motor, etc.

Experts, any reason not to go this route?
Quote:
Originally Posted by rsmamg View Post
Yes, the Type R is a little more advanced. Since I could not find any M3 GT2 bodies, i got this kit and will most likely buy the hop up options and modify it accordingly. Good choice though.
I stopped by the hobby shop today to get some help with the electronics, and i was looking at all the parts ( I WANT THEM ALL). they have the oil filled shocks and many other hop up options.
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      02-01-2010, 08:42 PM   #109
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RSMAMG - by the way, doesnt the spoiler and mirrors come painted? mine are already white
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      02-01-2010, 08:48 PM   #110
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I stopped by the hobby shop today to get some help with the electronics, and i was looking at all the parts ( I WANT THEM ALL). they have the oil filled shocks and many other hop up options.
It is indeed addicting. And seeing all of those little blue aluminum parts is contageous. I want them all too. The only issue is that they are so expensive! But they are all imported from Japan so its understandable.

Also, I could spend $100-$200 on add ons but then again, I am having trouble finding a nice place to race the car to enjoy its features.

After taking my old TT-01 on the streets and parking lots and watching it get incredibly beat up, I promised myself that this new one will see only clean and smooth conditions.

I have a Tamiya Cataloge. Ill try and scan some pages regarding the TT-01, TT-01E, and TT-01R.

It has descriptions of the chassis and the hop-up parts available.

**One last note**
I totally goofed and painted the rest of my body white WITHOUT masking the headlight/taillight sections and the windows

So that put my whole LED excitement to waste! Ill try and order another body and paint it right this time. It was great practice though!
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