FORUMS
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| 01-02-2012, 03:06 PM | #1 |
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Brigadier General
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What PC pad/polish combo to remove this?
IHi again,
I got this diagonal scratch (center of image) from my luggage, while on European Delivery. The VPC didn't fix, even though I requested it. My PC 7424XP is on the way, along with the following:
In the bright sun, I can see several hairlines, especially on the flat horizontal surfaces, i.e. hood and trunk lid. The sides seem much better. The scratch I'm attaching a picture of is about the worst of any particular defect. Thanks! Last edited by SamS; 01-02-2012 at 05:00 PM. |
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| 01-02-2012, 05:08 PM | #3 |
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BimmerPost Supporting Vendor
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You'll have to post about your experiences with the polishing goes. I've been apprehensive about doing my own polishing for some time now.
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| 01-02-2012, 06:46 PM | #5 | |
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Brigadier General
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I've been psyching myself up and learning about this for several months. I've watched countless how-to videos and been trying to learn about all the products. I am very much a DIY'er, and can spend lots of time getting the car just right, it's not my daily. I'll let you know how it turns out! |
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| 01-02-2012, 07:53 PM | #6 | |
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BimmerPost Supporting Vendor
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Quote:
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| 01-02-2012, 08:21 PM | #7 |
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Motorsport Passion!!!
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no, with the stronger compound and the aggressive pad, the mark should disappear altogether if its not too deep. If its still there, you might need a more aggressive pad. The white with the final polish is to reduce swirling or marring created by the orange pad and aggressive compound.
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| 01-02-2012, 10:08 PM | #8 | ||
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Brigadier General
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Quote:
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| 01-03-2012, 12:34 AM | #9 |
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First Lieutenant
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If I have a small deep scratch I usually polish it by hand with a microfiber so I can control exactly where I am removing clearcoat.
Can't really tell how deep this is from the photos. The rule I have learned for scratches is if you can feel it with your fingernail you will probably be able to make it look much better but not completely remove it without running the risk of burning through the clear. |
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| 01-03-2012, 09:08 AM | #10 | |
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Brigadier General
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| 01-03-2012, 07:58 PM | #11 |
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Banned
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I wouldn't recommend hand polishing except when you have to. You'll have a more uniform material removal with a machine, and less pressure points means you'll likely remove less clear-coat.
As someone that's been doing plenty of research, I'm sure you'll be a quick learner. Some things take experience. Reading, videos, and research is great, but with practice knowledge of actually trying it out, you'll find truth in some of what you've read or in what you've found to be controversial in your research. ![]() |
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| 01-03-2012, 09:43 PM | #12 | |
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Brigadier General
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Quote:
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| 01-04-2012, 09:16 AM | #13 |
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Lieutenant Colonel
![]() Drives: 2011 E92 M3 Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: NC
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Good luck! I was in the same boat until I just got the gear and tried it. I'm happy with my results though!
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'11 BMW E92 ///M3 - ZCP and DCT
'11 Ford F-150 XLT - Supercrew, 4x4, Ecoboost V6, Chrome/Convenience Package, Tow Package ![]() |
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| 01-08-2012, 04:41 PM | #14 |
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Brigadier General
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Well, good news and not-as-good-news.
First, I tried the orange pad + 203 on a RID I had on the front fender. This was a weird smear type defect, that almost looked like an oily rag had rubbed spot on the paint. Standard washing didn't make a dent in removing it. Orange pad and 203 immediately took care of it! At some point, I made the newbie mistake of lifting the PC off the car too early, I had compound every where! Oh well.... The sun wasn't out, and my lights were not great, so I stopped at the orange/203 instead of following up with a polish. If I go any further, that will be the best looking spot on the car! I'll need to work out some time to do the entire hood with a polish. Next, I moved to the scratch on the bumper. I did multiple passes with the orange/203. This improved things, but did not remove it completely. I can't feel it with my fingernail, but close inspection indicates it went into the clearcoat. Not all the way through, of course, but I can see how it's into the clear. It is at least 50% better, maybe more. I may stop at this point, kinda scared to go much further. The real problem came when the backing plate flew off the PC! I tried to reattach, and realize the backing plate screw was stripped! Damn. I'll have to buy another. I wonder why this happened? I tightened it hand-tight with the included wrench. |
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| 01-09-2012, 11:46 AM | #16 |
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Brigadier General
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It didn't feel like I was stripping it when I attached the backing plate. It screwed in by hand just fine, and I tightened it with the included wrench. I'll post pics later tonight. Thanks.
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| 01-10-2012, 03:11 PM | #17 |
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Enlisted Member
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Always start with the least aggressive pad/polish combo and work your way up till you are satisfied with results. You can always remove more clearcoat, but you can't put it back!
I've never had problems with my backing plate on the PC. |
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| 01-10-2012, 03:16 PM | #18 | |
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Brigadier General
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I'll try to take pictures this weekend when the sun is out.I never got around to taking a picture, but basically the thread is stripped on the backing plate screw. I can't tell if the female thread is jacked up on the PC or not. I guess I'll just have to buy a new backing plate to test. |
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| 01-12-2012, 02:21 AM | #19 |
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Banned
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Doing anything by hand is just silly in this case. I would save your time and effort of taking off multiple layers with an orange only to realize you could have used one pass with a yellow pad and Menzerna power polish and will completely eliminate that puppy. Then a quick pass with orange and the power. Then the white pad with any stage 1/light cutting/finishing polish. 3 steps with guarenteed results and completely safe to your paint.
Using an orbital buffer is nearly impossible to damage your paint unless you stick a wool pad or yellow pad on full speed and literally leave it in one spot for 5 minutes. Its nothing like a rotary which can burn through paint in seconds if left in one spot. Orbitals like the Pc are no brainers and hard to screw up in anyway. Good luck! |
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| 01-12-2012, 10:14 AM | #20 | |
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Brigadier General
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Thank you for the tips. Menzerna Power Finish is different than Power Polish? This weekend, I will try to take some pics in the sun with my good camera, and maybe you guys will give me some additional tips. |
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| 01-14-2012, 12:56 PM | #21 |
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Brigadier General
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OK gang,
Here's my "after" photo on the single rear bumper scratch. It was really hard to photograph and even to see. The light has to be just right. If I can't fix this scratch any more than this without risking damage, I'm OK with that. I used Orange pad and 203. I'm also hoping you guys can recommend how to attack the rest of these scratches, and maybe even guide me through each of the steps. As a reminder, here's what I have (well, my backing plate is broke, currently ):
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Last edited by SamS; 01-14-2012 at 01:04 PM. |
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| 01-14-2012, 03:01 PM | #22 |
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Banned
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Looks like you have pretty light swirling going on, which is awesome. Most cars I've seen aren't near this.
I'd recommend trying 106 on a black pad (work it good and long as this oily polish doesn't break down very fast on a DA) and seeing how that works. You'll likely get at least 50-80% correction with just that. If it gives an acceptable result, you're good to go. If you want more correction, compare 203 on white followed by the 106 on black. |
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