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      11-24-2009, 10:47 PM   #1
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Battery bus connector - P/N?

Anyone know how to get a hold of another battery bus connector? It plugs into the OEM distribution block on top of the battery. I don't see it in the parts catalog. Trying to either hide my amp wiring, or make it look as close to stock as possible.
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      11-25-2009, 11:42 AM   #2
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Item 14 (housing and connector): http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E9...tion_box_rear/
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      11-25-2009, 12:18 PM   #3
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As you can see in the link Technic posted, there are two versions of the connector. One is the single connector and one is a double. If you look at the OEM distribution block you'll understand the difference. The problem I found is that even though there may be an unused space in the block, there might not be an available connection there. I would stick a multimeter probe into each open slot to see which one actually has an available pin in it. When I did mine, I noticed that the available pins on mine and Technic's were in differerent locations. Once you find the pin location, you can select the right connector housing. Also, the connector housing and the internal pin connector are 2 separate part numbers so don't forget to order both. The part is really made for 8 AWG cable but you can squeeze a 4 AWG in there with a little manipulating. I even added some adhesive backed heat shrink over the connection point to make sure the cable wouldn't slip out over time.
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      11-25-2009, 04:32 PM   #4
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Pics?
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      11-25-2009, 04:58 PM   #5
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      11-25-2009, 05:37 PM   #6
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A properly terminated wire is a thing of beauty. Well done, sir. Well done indeed. I'm going to bookmark this for my build. Now I just need to see if a 4 gauge wire will be enough. I hope there are two empty powered slots in there.
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      11-25-2009, 06:02 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quality_sound View Post
A properly terminated wire is a thing of beauty. Well done, sir. Well done indeed. I'm going to bookmark this for my build. Now I just need to see if a 4 gauge wire will be enough. I hope there are two empty powered slots in there.
This is VP Electricity set up:

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      11-25-2009, 06:09 PM   #8
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Quote:
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A properly terminated wire is a thing of beauty. Well done, sir. Well done indeed. I'm going to bookmark this for my build. Now I just need to see if a 4 gauge wire will be enough. I hope there are two empty powered slots in there.
I was hoping for the same thing as I would have used dual 8 AWG feeds (equivalent to a 2 AWG) instead of a single 4 AWG. I could only find one unused powered slot on mine though.
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      11-25-2009, 07:09 PM   #9
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Perfect, thanks! I couldn't decide if that's what 14 was.
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      11-26-2009, 02:48 AM   #10
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I was hoping for the same thing as I would have used dual 8 AWG feeds (equivalent to a 2 AWG) instead of a single 4 AWG. I could only find one unused powered slot on mine though.
Good thing you didn't. Two 8s isn't equivalent to a 6 gauge. The rule is three runs of a cable is the same as the next size up. You'd have had to run a looooooooot of 8 gauge to equal a 2 gauge.
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      11-26-2009, 05:20 AM   #11
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Quote:
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Good thing you didn't. Two 8s isn't equivalent to a 6 gauge. The rule is three runs of a cable is the same as the next size up. You'd have had to run a looooooooot of 8 gauge to equal a 2 gauge.
Sorry. Slight mistake. Based on cross sectional area of the conductor, two parallel 8 AWG cables is the equivalent of a single 3 AWG. This is based on THHN insulated 75 deg C cable which have much more conservative ratings compared to car audio cables. One 8 AWG 75 deg C insulated conductor is rated for 50A while a 3 AWG is rated for 100A. At first I said 2 AWG because I typically spec 2 AWG for 100A commercial applications (which is rated for 115A for a 75 deg C insulation) because 3 AWG is not a commonly available size. I believe most car audio cables are rated higher because they use 105 deg C insulation but the ratio of cross sectional area of the actual copper conductor still applies.
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      11-26-2009, 05:50 AM   #12
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Ahh. I normally round down one to play it safe, hence the 4 gauge recommendation rather than 2 gauge.

How are the mid plates coming? VERY interested in those.
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      11-26-2009, 06:17 AM   #13
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Quote:
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Ahh. I normally round down one to play it safe, hence the 4 gauge recommendation rather than 2 gauge.

How are the mid plates coming? VERY interested in those.
Have the prototypes in hand. Just haven't test fitted in the car yet. Don't want to hijack this thread so I posted another thread.

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...67#post6272467
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