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      10-23-2012, 01:19 PM   #45
dukeandtheland
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Impossible to reach

For M3, you may have enough room, but for my 2008 335Xi, there is absolutely no room to reach the bleeding valve.
The damn valve is way deep behind the hard lines. Even if I find a extra long wrench to reach it, there will be extremely limited room for me to make even a half turn. And there is the rubber cap part, no way I can put my hand in and take that cap off; imagine I have to put it back on, also connect the hose cap to it.

I cannot believe the design of this. This is just designed to make sure that no one can touch it!

A picture is attached here


Quote:
Originally Posted by elp_jc View Post
Pleasant clutch bleeding surprise folks. After half an hour of turning the bleeding valve a full turn with my vacuum machine attached to it (no freaking s p a c e -why the hell the system censors that word????) and no fluid, I knew I was dealing with a check valve. Got out from under the car, opened door, push clutch pedal with hand and it went in like butter. Did that 10 times more and I was done. Clutch worked perfectly after closing it. Next time it's going to take me 2 minutes after removing shield.

Here's the drill:
- Remove belly pan (3 screws in front, 2 in back, and 2 on each side).
- Remove cap from valve and loosen it one full turn with a 1/4" ratchet and 11mm standard socket.
- Valve will just spew fluid when you push the clutch pedal, so use any method you want to catch it that won't splash. This is a one-person job folks .
- Push clutch pedal slowly (and return slowly as well) about 10 times, and you're done.
- Screw valve clockwise with ratchet until you feel a 'click' and it stops turning. DO NOT apply too much force since it's PLASTIC.
- Reinstall belly pan and you're done. This is the easiest clutch I've ever bled, and the most effective way is by pushing the pedal, but I never do it that way since helper can screw up. No chance for that here; great feature .

By the way, rear brakes require a 9mm closed wrench and front 11mm, and are regular valves (the way I like them on the brakes). Job done in about an hour with a vacuum bleeder (the best way IMO). Fluid was clean (no debris inside the reservoir, like most of my new cars), which was good news, so no need to destroy the filter to clean the reservoir. Just amber in color. From now on will do it yearly, like all my other vehicles. Just $10 and an hour of my time. Well, probably 2 hours since I like to clean the undercarriage . Hope this helps folks.
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      11-18-2012, 06:54 AM   #46
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um stupid question, but if I'm using a pressurised bleeder tool, do i have to take the wheels off to change the brake fluid. So long as I jack the car up and can get to the bleeder nipples I'm good to go right?
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      11-18-2012, 09:38 AM   #47
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You can do it with the car on the ground so long as you get to the bleeders. Be careful of spilled fluid on wheels though. Use water to rinse of messes.
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      01-08-2013, 10:07 PM   #48
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question i have is how do you reset the computer for service date after you do the bleed? i tried reseting it the same way i did when i changed the engine oil using the computer buttons on the steering column but for some reason it wouldn't reset. any tips or tricks that i'm doing wrong? thanks for the photo's the steps were very easy to follow!
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      01-09-2013, 04:10 PM   #49
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Search youtube for a video...it's the same process for all the conditions based services.
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      04-22-2013, 08:59 PM   #50
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Resetting the Service indicator.

A must for any DIY. Resetting the service indicator.



The detail from mikem's thread http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51049

Step 1
Insert key into slot
Step 2
Press start/stop button without depressing clutch/brake and wait for the service reminder to disappear.
Step 3
Immediately after service reminder goes out, press and hold the odometer reset. After 3 secs a warning triangle will appear, keep the odo. button pressed and after another 2-3 secs the Oil can will appear. I f you hold it too long (10 secs in total) you will overshoot the runway and some German writing will appear giving the software level/ can bus etc. of the car. Go back to the beginning and start again.
Step 4
You are now in the service menu, use the toggle switch on indicator stalk to scroll up/down through the various service items.
Step 5
When you have the item you want to reset showing, press the BC button on end of indicator stalk. Reset should now appear in the display. Press in and hold the BC button for 2-3 secs and a clock will start whirling around and hey presto, its done
Step 6
You can now either scroll up/down to select another item (as in step 4) or you can press the start/stop button to exit.
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      10-29-2013, 05:45 PM   #51
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I've just replaced my fluid on an 2008 320d M Sport LCI, and although the brakes are good they are not as solid as before.

I purchased a vacuum pump which didn't work so resorted to the tried and tested 2nd person pumping (Opened value, pumped until looks like new fluid and no bubble, held brake on floor and tightened the lock valve, Offside Rear, Nearside Front, N/S R, O/S F). Its been mentioned above this could be something unavoidable without BMW specialist / main dealer equipment, is this the case? If not any other suggestions

BTW I've bleed brakes on numerous cars in the past using the same method.
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      04-19-2014, 06:22 PM   #52
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ABS activation

Curious to know if anyone is using diagnostic software to activate the ABS system when bleeding/flushing brakes...TIS says to do it once for rear and once for front thanks.
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      04-29-2014, 04:13 AM   #53
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Just did the brake flush a couple days ago with the Motive bleeder and man it was a breeze!

I went to my friends house (he has a lift) and went underneath the car without taking off my wheels and used the motive bottles to prevent any spillage.

The maintenance minder on the Idrive says every two years. The fluid that came out looked pretty good, not dirty at all. But I flushed it out anyways.

Great DIY =)
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