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      10-27-2009, 11:23 PM   #1
meevo
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Motor Oil Alternatives?

What are some motor oil alternatives to what bmw uses?

I did a search but didn't come up with anything - I'm a big fan of amsoil but they don't make anything that qualifies for 10w60. I've read that the m3 can run 10w40 or 50, but i'd feel more comfortable with the 10w60. Maybe redline, eneos? Anyone know?
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      10-27-2009, 11:44 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meevo View Post
What are some motor oil alternatives to what bmw uses?

I did a search but didn't come up with anything - I'm a big fan of amsoil but they don't make anything that qualifies for 10w60. I've read that the m3 can run 10w40 or 50, but i'd feel more comfortable with the 10w60. Maybe redline, eneos? Anyone know?
Bad idea...
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      10-27-2009, 11:55 PM   #3
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Just stick to castrol 10w60 there is no other oil to use!!!
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      10-27-2009, 11:59 PM   #4
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Castrol is the only one that make 10w60? Is it even a class iv synthetic oil? I dunno how familiar you guys are with synthetic oils, but I'm sure there's gotta be better stuff out there. All my cars have run noticeably better on Amsoil synthetic compared to say, Mobil 1 synthetic.

When I say alternative, I mean alternative brand, no more than that. Still want to run a fully synthetic 10w60.
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      10-28-2009, 12:12 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meevo View Post
Castrol is the only one that make 10w60? Is it even a class iv synthetic oil? I dunno how familiar you guys are with synthetic oils, but I'm sure there's gotta be better stuff out there. All my cars have run noticeably better on Amsoil synthetic compared to say, Mobil 1 synthetic.

When I say alternative, I mean alternative brand, no more than that. Still want to run a fully synthetic 10w60.
Pretty sure Motul doesn't make a 10W60 300V at the moment or else I would have jumped ship. The TWS is actually not a bad oil considering the film strength is close to the Motul 300V and much better than other lesser grade Motul oils. You probaby get 5-7K out of one tank of 300V, so it can add up quick.
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      10-28-2009, 12:19 AM   #6
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Shell Helix Racing 10w-60 is the only other 10w-60 you can get here if I recall correctly. It's absolutely not worth changing to a different oil unless you live in Siberia maybe.
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      10-28-2009, 12:21 AM   #7
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The Helix is hella expensive too
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      10-28-2009, 12:28 AM   #8
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Am using this. Feel the cars alot smoother and temps dropped ~3degrees during hard driving. Temps also drop noticably faster than the Castrol which I have used for a while now. No regrets.
There is also an application list provided by Liqui Moly and it shows e9x M3 if its any credit.
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      10-28-2009, 12:39 AM   #9
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Interesting - it'd be great to see an oil analysis from any alternatives if possible.
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      10-28-2009, 12:44 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meevo View Post
Castrol is the only one that make 10w60? Is it even a class iv synthetic oil?
It's not the only 10w-60, but the Castrol 10w-60 TWS is the ONLY synthetic engine oil was specifically developed by the engineers of BMW Motorsport and Castrol for high revving naturally aspirated engines The 10w-60 TWS is API approved for the M3, and it's a Group IV/Group V PAO ester-based full synthetic oil blend. (not "class" IV)

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Originally Posted by meevo View Post
I dunno how familiar you guys are with synthetic oils, but I'm sure there's gotta be better stuff out there.
We know plenty noob!

And actually...NO, there really isn't anything 'better' than the 10w-60TWS.

Quote:
Originally Posted by meevo View Post
All my cars have run noticeably better on Amsoil synthetic compared to say, Mobil 1 synthetic.
That may have been true in that case, because but the Mobile 1 engine oils are Group III hydrocracked petroleum based synthetic oils, whereas the Amsoil is a Group V PAO Ester-based synthetic oil. (which has superior chemistry, friction modifiers, and corrosion inhibitors)

Quote:
Originally Posted by meevo View Post
When I say alternative, I mean alternative brand, no more than that. Still want to run a fully synthetic 10w60.
Then just use the Castrol 10w-60 TWS and be happy.
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      10-28-2009, 12:48 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris719 View Post
Shell Helix Racing 10w-60 is the only other 10w-60 you can get here if I recall correctly. It's absolutely not worth changing to a different oil unless you live in Siberia maybe.
That oil is even more expensive (in some areas) than the Castrol 10w-60 TWS. It makes zero sense to to use it as a substitute...
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      10-28-2009, 12:50 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lemans_Blue_M View Post
It's not the only 10w-60, but the Castrol 10w-60 TWS is the ONLY synthetic engine oil was specifically developed by the engineers of BMW Motorsport and Castrol for high revving naturally aspirated engines The 10w-60 TWS is API approved for the M3, and it's a Group IV/Group V PAO ester-based full synthetic oil blend. (not "class" IV)



We know plenty noob!

And actually...NO, there really isn't anything 'better' than the 10w-60TWS.



That may have been true in that case, because but the Mobile 1 engine oils are Group III hydrocracked petroleum based synthetic oils, whereas the Amsoil is a Group V PAO Ester-based synthetic oil. (which has superior chemistry, friction modifiers, and corrosion inhibitors)



Then just use the Castrol 10w-60 TWS and be happy.
forgive me for seeing if there were any better alternatives, all knowing one
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      10-28-2009, 01:00 AM   #13
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not all mobil 1 oils falls under group III, one good example would be their 0w-40 European Formula which is a PAO based oil I believe, that is widely used in Mercedes and Porsche engines.

However with the M3 case I highly suspect oil specially formulated would be the since I believe engineers knows more about friction modifies, engine needs, and such are more qualified to make a suggestion. Therefore I believe the castrol 10w-60 suits my needs quite well.
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      10-28-2009, 01:07 AM   #14
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That being said, I'm a little curious as to why it's almost "expected" for m3 motors to consume oil. Wasn't it somewhere along the lines of 1qt/1000 miles or something? Depending on break in

PS, thanks for all the input from knowledgeable members going around!
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      10-28-2009, 01:12 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elmariachi View Post


Am using this. Feel the cars alot smoother and temps dropped ~3degrees during hard driving. Temps also drop noticably faster than the Castrol which I have used for a while now. No regrets.
There is also an application list provided by Liqui Moly and it shows e9x M3 if its any credit.
Don't believe the hype...

It doesn't matter what LuquiMoly lists on their label as far as credits go. This 10w-60 oil has not been approved by BMW for use on the E9x M3. BMW has a "Special Oil Approval List" for certian vehicles. (like the M3 and M5) Porsche also has a similar list of specially approved oil products for select applications. (like the GT3)

The ONLY oil that is currently on the BMW special oil approval list for the E9x M3 is: Castrol 10w-60 TWS


Like the Shell Helix 10w-60, the LiquiMoly oil has to be imported from Europe, and it is only sold by select U.S. specialty oil distributors. The price is higher than what you would pay for the TWS. Again, switching over makes zero sense.

Not to mention the differences in chemistry, the type of oil base stocks used, and the special anti-friction additive protection packages that are unique to each oil brand.

You guys are nuts...
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      10-28-2009, 01:36 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meevo View Post
That being said, I'm a little curious as to why it's almost "expected" for m3 motors to consume oil. Wasn't it somewhere along the lines of 1qt/1000 miles or something? Depending on break in

PS, thanks for all the input from knowledgeable members going around!
Correct...

It's due to the nature of BMW's "M" high revving NA engines in general. The S54 E46 M3 engine was the same way...

A small amount of oil spray bypasses the piston rings at cold startup, until the rings expand to seal off the cylinder wall after initial warmup. This why it's so important NOT to rev the engine excessively before it is properly warmed up.

And depending how well the rings & cylinder walls were worn in (during the initial break-in period), the rate of your individual oil consumption can vary greatly once it's hot and under high revs. (from 1-liter per 1000mi to 1-liter per 10,000 mi)
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      10-28-2009, 01:40 AM   #17
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Besides the fact the TWS is probably the best option available, it is also the only oil the dealer will give you for free for the first four years! LOL!
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      10-28-2009, 02:06 AM   #18
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just use the recommended oil
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      10-28-2009, 03:26 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elmariachi View Post


Am using this. Feel the cars alot smoother and temps dropped ~3degrees during hard driving. Temps also drop noticably faster than the Castrol which I have used for a while now. No regrets.
There is also an application list provided by Liqui Moly and it shows e9x M3 if its any credit.
Your opinion doesn't inspire much confidence when you are one of a very few number of M3 owners who are having to pull down there engine to find out whats wrong with it.
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      10-28-2009, 04:48 AM   #20
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Your opinion doesn't inspire much confidence when you are one of a very few number of M3 owners who are having to pull down there engine to find out whats wrong with it.
I am not asking you to swallow my opinion. I am just giving my opinion based on my experience with the oil I have been using for quite some time on all my cars. And the problem I am having is not a result of the engine oil. It is something to do with the exhaust valves which I will confirm once the engine is apart which a few people have it on otherwise very stock cars. I am not pointing a gun to your head to accept my personal opinion and be confident about it. No one is.
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      10-28-2009, 05:10 AM   #21
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Changing from an oil specially formulated and extensively tested on M3s to another untested oil seems stupid in the extreme...but hey its your dollar, put whatever oil you like in your car especially as it makes it smoother, probably worth some extra BHPs as well!

And can you absolutely rule out that the oil was not a factor in your engine problem? A break down in (or reduced) valve guide lubrication would give increased valve guide wear which can manifest as a ticking noise.

Last edited by SenorFunkyPants; 10-28-2009 at 05:25 AM.
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      10-28-2009, 06:21 PM   #22
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Besides the fact the TWS is probably the best option available, it is also the only oil the dealer will give you for free for the first four years! LOL!
And....dealer could void your warranty if not using TWS in the event of an engine failure...
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