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      07-05-2016, 12:53 AM   #1
WingZeroX5
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DIY: DCT Filter Change

I saw some threads about having the DCT fluid changed / topped off, but I have not seen a comprehensive thread about changing the actual filter. Most of the folks who are curious about this have been turned off by the fact that the DCT oil lines runs right across the filter, discouraging owners from performing this DIY.

Well, this was on my list of things to do when my car turned 100K and finally got to it (read: manned up the courage) today on America's Bday.

This DIY is very straight forward, difficulty about a 3/10

ADDITIONAL TOOLS NEEDED:
C-CLIP remover - I just want to point out and say DO NOT SKIMP OUT ON THIS TOOL! SPEND THE $20 BUCKS AND GET A GOOD QUALITY ONE (I bought mine from Sears: Craftsman)
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-profe...p-00947412000P

Torx E10 socket
16MM socket
8in extension

OEM Filter Kit - Includes new circlip, filter cover, and Getrag filter. I bought mine from FCP
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...er-28107842840

1) Read up on this DIY to understand the fluid change procedure.
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=746269

Ensure car is level. I had the rears on ramps and fronts on jack stands.

2) The filter is located on the driver's side and completely visible once you remove the DCT transmission cover.

3) Remove the aluminum skid pan using 16mm sockets on the bolts. You need to take this off so that you can gain clearance to remove the torx bolt.

4) Use the extension to remove the E10 torx. Once this is removed, the aluminum piece holding the two oil lines should slide out fairly easily.
**HAVE A DRIP PAN PLACED UNDER THIS SPOT, SOME FLUID WILL SPILL OUT**

Pull the oil lines out. Access to the filter is now possible

If any one of you saw Terminator 2 where they remove the CPU from Arnold, this is almost identical to it when Sarah removes the "Shock Dampening Assembly" step. Here, watch this at the 1:00 mark before moving on so you get the idea


5) Use the circlip tool to take out the one in the transmission. Next, to remove the plastic cover, I used pliers to rotate it to get it loose and pull it out. Some fluid will spill out again, so have the drip pan handy! Once that's out, the filter is right there. To get it out, I used a pick and pulled on it. Comes out very easily, just like removing the engine oil filter from the oil filter cap.

6) Re-install everything in reverse order with new replacement parts. Make sure you feel a small click when reinstalling the filter so that the gasket is seated properly inside. The filter itself will droop slightly but the cover will support it once it's installed. The circular plastic cover pushes into the transmission with some force. To make the circlip installation easier, try to get part of the clip into the groove first and work the rest in with the tool. When reinstalling the oil lines, be careful to not over tighten the Torx bolt!

7) The amount of DCT fluid lost is very minimal, probably like 1/5th of a quart if anything. So if you want to re-fill and check, follow step 1. The only thing I did additional was to leave the engine running once I reached required temperature and completed the 1min 2k RPM hold, undo the filler bolt, and add fluid until it spills out. Hand tighten filler bolt, shut off engine, and finally torque bolt into spec.

8) Clean up areas with brake cleaner and reinstall the skid pan and DCT cover.

FYI, I've attached BMW's SIB and utilized Step #10 to make sure it's properly filled. It may be scary at first with the engine running and you may think DCT fluid will spill out, but not if the DCT is under filled.
Attached Images
 
Attached Files
File Type: doc SI B28 03 08 M-DCT fluid fill and checking.doc (104.0 KB, 61 views)

Last edited by WingZeroX5; 07-05-2016 at 01:35 AM.
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      07-11-2016, 10:14 PM   #2
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Looks fantastic. Thanks for sharing. Am at 76k now...am planning to change this when I hit 100k (or 10 years).
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      07-12-2016, 03:36 AM   #3
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how did the used filter look when you took it out? any gunk or metal shavings?
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      07-12-2016, 07:58 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MTM View Post
Looks fantastic. Thanks for sharing. Am at 76k now...am planning to change this when I hit 100k (or 10 years).
Or you could do this now and change it again at the next 75k

Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
how did the used filter look when you took it out? any gunk or metal shavings?
Looks like a very dark shade of gray. Didn't see any metal shavings though. I was going to take a pic of it but threw it out instead.
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      07-12-2016, 08:42 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WingZeroX5 View Post
Looks like a very dark shade of gray. Didn't see any metal shavings though. I was going to take a pic of it but threw it out instead.
i wonder if its residue from wearing clutches? it would make sense that it would be a fine powder.
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      07-12-2016, 08:58 PM   #6
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Quote:
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i wonder if its residue from wearing clutches? it would make sense that it would be a fine powder.
It's probably the same stuff that would be on those magnets stuck to the transmission oil pan. Just for curiosity when I took it out, I sprayed it with brake fluid and it washed away very easily
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      07-12-2016, 11:04 PM   #7
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So you just changed the filter? Left old DCT fluid in?
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      07-12-2016, 11:23 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Groundpilot View Post
So you just changed the filter? Left old DCT fluid in?
Well, depending on the condition of the fluid, you can leave it in if you want since the amount lost to the filter change is minimal. Mine looked pretty good, not that far off in color with the brand new pentosins

I changed mine out though anyway since that was my intention all along
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      07-13-2016, 12:55 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
how did the used filter look when you took it out? any gunk or metal shavings?
Mine with 103,000 miles:



Blackstone DCT fluid analysis:

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Even though you answered my PM like you're missing a chromosome or have some other issues I still want these.
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      07-13-2016, 01:15 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nholmes
Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
how did the used filter look when you took it out? any gunk or metal shavings?
Mine with 103,000 miles:



Blackstone DCT fluid analysis:

What's a good interval for this?

I had the dct leak fixed under warranty, but I'm not sure if that means all new fluid...
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      07-13-2016, 02:47 AM   #11
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Quote:
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What's a good interval for this?

I had the dct leak fixed under warranty, but I'm not sure if that means all new fluid...
No idea. I wanted everything fresh for track abuse.

I've seen 75k floating around though.
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Even though you answered my PM like you're missing a chromosome or have some other issues I still want these.
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      07-13-2016, 08:49 AM   #12
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Quote:
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No idea. I wanted everything fresh for track abuse.

I've seen 75k floating around though.
Yup, mine looked exactly like that. Wasn't that bad of a DIY right?
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      07-13-2016, 10:14 AM   #13
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Nope, not bad at all. Messy though.
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Even though you answered my PM like you're missing a chromosome or have some other issues I still want these.
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      07-13-2016, 10:58 AM   #14
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Nope, not bad at all. Messy though.
Sounds about right
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      11-17-2016, 04:00 PM   #15
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can someone tell me the amount of fluid to purchase?
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      11-17-2016, 05:46 PM   #16
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Quote:
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can someone tell me the amount of fluid to purchase?
5 quarts of Pentosin DCTF-1 fluid
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Even though you answered my PM like you're missing a chromosome or have some other issues I still want these.
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      11-30-2016, 12:00 PM   #17
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5 quarts of Pentosin DCTF-1 fluid
Thank you.
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