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      06-10-2010, 04:27 PM   #397
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaypod View Post
Those look great - need to post a pic of the whole side of your car though!
New camera has been ordered.

So three track days later, how do feel about the BBK?
I'm guessing you are very happy with your purchase?
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      06-10-2010, 04:40 PM   #398
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STALKER View Post
New camera has been ordered.

So three track days later, how do feel about the BBK?
I'm guessing you are very happy with your purchase?
Cool - look forward to the pics.

Very happy with the BBK - I have not had any issues with overheating or brake fade. I know I am not even pushing them to the limits either. I am slowly getting my head around the fact I can go much deeper into the corners than before and brake harder without worry of brake fade etc.
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      06-15-2010, 04:57 PM   #399
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAJ View Post
Could you do me a favor before you put tires on them? Snap a photo of the outside of the barrel (that will eventually be inside the tire) of the hole for the valve stem? The Style 219's have a flat spot for the TPMS sensor there, and I'm wondering if the Style 260's have it too.

Also, do the 260's look "close enough" to the 219's that you could put 260's on the front and 219's on the back without looking strange?
Sorry it took so long.
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      06-15-2010, 04:58 PM   #400
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Must have got a rock or something stuck in the pad, noticed I have a nice little shallow groove in the rotor. Can feel it with your fingernail.
Its nothing to worry about right?
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      06-15-2010, 05:46 PM   #401
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I wouldnt worry about the groove - I would want to make sure the rock or whatever is causing the groove is gone though. Especially with your track day coming up. Wouldnt want to make it worse.
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      06-15-2010, 06:32 PM   #402
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaypod View Post
I wouldnt worry about the groove - I would want to make sure the rock or whatever is causing the groove is gone though. Especially with your track day coming up. Wouldnt want to make it worse.
I agree with Jaypod: the scratch is a non-issue, but you should pop the pads out and make sure that whatever caused it is gone.
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      06-15-2010, 07:13 PM   #403
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STALKER View Post
Must have got a rock or something stuck in the pad, noticed I have a nice little shallow groove in the rotor. Can feel it with your fingernail.
Its nothing to worry about right?
Looks like a small stone/pebble got in there. Check the leading edge of the pads as well as the slot. In a pinch, hit the brakes hard in reverse a few times as that often clears it. The groove will slowly disappear without causing any problems.

Chris
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      08-10-2010, 10:52 PM   #404
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11 track days later...

I've just bought my first set of replacement front pads. Mintex Xtreme Motorsports from Stillen, the same pad the kit originally came with.

I've done 8 open lapping days so far, and 3 traditional session-style days. Probably 2000 track miles on the original pads. The rears look like they'll last another year, the fronts are down to about 5 mm friction material depth. I might get one more day out of them before I replace them, but frankly I'll probably just change them now so I don't have to think about it again.

The rotors are in excellent shape. No ridging on the face and no lip at the edge. They look like they'll last for years.

After more than a year of heavy use, I continue to be both impressed and satisfied with the AP Racing kit on my E92 M3.
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      08-11-2010, 07:51 PM   #405
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAJ View Post
11 track days later...

I've just bought my first set of replacement front pads. Mintex Xtreme Motorsports from Stillen, the same pad the kit originally came with.

I've done 8 open lapping days so far, and 3 traditional session-style days. Probably 2000 track miles on the original pads. The rears look like they'll last another year, the fronts are down to about 5 mm friction material depth. I might get one more day out of them before I replace them, but frankly I'll probably just change them now so I don't have to think about it again.

The rotors are in excellent shape. No ridging on the face and no lip at the edge. They look like they'll last for years.

After more than a year of heavy use, I continue to be both impressed and satisfied with the AP Racing kit on my E92 M3.
I replaced my front Mintex pads after 5 events, but I also had them on the car all winter and this is a daily driver. I had about 65% of the rear pads left when I changed them. I too have been very impressed with this brake kit and the Mintex pads.
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      08-11-2010, 08:37 PM   #406
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It's great to see you guys enjoying the equipment. The ///M crowd, while at times justifiably demanding, is a lot of fun to work with! This is all about the fun, right?

Chris
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      08-11-2010, 08:43 PM   #407
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dawgdog View Post
I replaced my front Mintex pads after 5 events, but I also had them on the car all winter and this is a daily driver. I had about 65% of the rear pads left when I changed them. I too have been very impressed with this brake kit and the Mintex pads.
Been very happy with my kit so far as well.
I have three hard days at Road Atlanta on them and zero fade. I am running NTO5 tires at the track, not R compounds.
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      08-11-2010, 08:52 PM   #408
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I have also done 5 or 6 track days on my kit and am extremely happy with its performance and very impressed with the mintex pads - will definitely be using them again!
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      08-12-2010, 08:00 AM   #409
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AP Racing - Chris_B View Post
It's great to see you guys enjoying the equipment. The ///M crowd, while at times justifiably demanding, is a lot of fun to work with! This is all about the fun, right?

Chris
Definitely all about the fun. My last event I had R888 tires and the grip was amazing. Can't wait until next week to get back on the track with PCA at Pacific raceways. The AP brake kit is my best modification to date.
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      09-16-2010, 10:31 PM   #410
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So should we be using a 10mm or 12mm spacer to clear OEM 18" wheels? Looking ahead for my winter set up using OEM 18s.

Hopefully won't push the fronts out to far compared to the rears.
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      09-17-2010, 10:14 AM   #411
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STALKER View Post
So should we be using a 10mm or 12mm spacer to clear OEM 18" wheels? Looking ahead for my winter set up using OEM 18s.

Hopefully won't push the fronts out to far compared to the rears.
Most people have been running a 10mm spacer with the 18" runflats (US-model). I've heard talk of only 5mm, but I don't have details on which one actually worked, so maybe someone could chime in who has direct experience? The Euro 18" (non-runflat) does not require a spacer.

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      09-17-2010, 10:35 AM   #412
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AP Racing - Chris_B View Post
Most people have been running a 10mm spacer with the 18" runflats (US-model). I've heard talk of only 5mm, but I don't have details on which one actually worked, so maybe someone could chime in who has direct experience? The Euro 18" (non-runflat) does not require a spacer.

Chris
I ordered the EU 18s. They are the same as the NA version now it seems
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Last edited by STALKER; 09-17-2010 at 10:47 AM.
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      09-17-2010, 07:18 PM   #413
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I ordered the EU 18s. They are the same as the NA version now it seems
Rats!! They didn't even have the courtesy to email me before any changes were approved??? What were they thinking?

Unfortunately, the thick 36mm rotor is already as far inboard as it can possibly be, so there is nothing that can be done to improve spoke clearance. The OE's will require a small spacer.

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      09-18-2010, 11:46 AM   #414
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STALKER View Post
So should we be using a 10mm or 12mm spacer to clear OEM 18" wheels? Looking ahead for my winter set up using OEM 18s.

Hopefully won't push the fronts out too far compared to the rears.
The caliper-to-wheel interference is between the barrel of the rim and the outer corner of the caliper where the bolt-heads are inset. I figured that a die-grinder, applied judiciously to the caliper corners, would allow the OEM 18's to fit without any spacer at all, but Chris thought it was a bad idea! He thought it was an even worse idea than putting Staubli quick-connects on the brake lines so I could switch back to OEM for the winter without bleeding the brakes.

I went with 10mm spacers originally, but one got damaged so I replaced them with 12's. The 10's provide just barely enough clearance - about 2mm or so. The 12's just look safer, even though I never had a problem with the 10's.

If you're concerned about looks, you can always throw on a set of 12's at the rear too.
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      09-18-2010, 04:57 PM   #415
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This is it!

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=433351
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      09-19-2010, 07:28 PM   #416
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AP Racing - Chris_B View Post
Rats!! They didn't even have the courtesy to email me before any changes were approved??? What were they thinking?

Unfortunately, the thick 36mm rotor is already as far inboard as it can possibly be, so there is nothing that can be done to improve spoke clearance. The OE's will require a small spacer.

Chris
My 18s even have the Euro part numbers, but they seem to be same as the North American version. They even have the flat lip for the TPMS sensors.

Totally sucks, really wanted to avoid spacers. Oh well. Love the APs though, they have performed great!!!
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      09-25-2010, 04:53 AM   #417
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Wow! Lot's of reading here. I'm thinking about going with the APracing BBK. I have US spec 219 18" OEM wheels. So a 10mm spacer minimum is required just to clear the spokes from the calipers. But will 10mm spacers insure clearance of the BMW OEM wheel balance weights?

Cheers,
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      09-25-2010, 12:19 PM   #418
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BimmerRob08 View Post
Wow! Lot's of reading here. I'm thinking about going with the APracing BBK. I have US spec 219 18" OEM wheels. So a 10mm spacer minimum is required just to clear the spokes from the calipers. But will 10mm spacers insure clearance of the BMW OEM wheel balance weights?

Cheers,
The spokes miss the caliper by a wide margin even without a spacer. It's the barrel of the rim that touches. It happens where the barrel reduces in size and creates a flat ring shaped space about 1" wide just inside the spokes where the balance weights go.

So the answer to your question is "yes", provided that the weights are glued in the ring where they belong.
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