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      01-27-2010, 08:31 PM   #199
AP Racing - Chris_B
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Originally Posted by Lemans_Blue_M View Post
I have always appreciated and respected your valuable contribution on these boards Marshall...

I just wanted to tell you thanks for all the hard work you put into helping the m3post community.

I should have added another zero after the decimal point. (0.00125")

Anyway, I was just curious to see what AP Racings in-house standards are in relation to this brake rotor specification. Thanks for chiming in to help Chris out.
I don't think the product engineering group would like me to post that figure, but it is very tight (less than what you have indicated). It required investing a HUGE sum of money into a highly specialized twin-turning machine, which is quicker and more repeatable than grinding and creates less internal stresses in the iron. This was primarily due to the strict requirements settled on during the Holden HSV W427 project for GM (what the Pontiac G8 should have been!). It was the first OE application of the current version strap drive system. Say what you want about GM cars, but their quality guys tend to be pretty picky -- especially down under!

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      01-27-2010, 08:36 PM   #200
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Good to know.
The Mintex pads that come with the kit should be similar to the DS2500, at least in operating temp, now sure about friction and torque. Gotta test them out.
The Mintex Xtreme Motorsport compound will handle substantially more temperature (about 1350F) and are more linear and responsive than the DS2500. In fact, they will usually hang in there longer than the DS3000.

Those wanting the ultimate in track pads might be eager to hear what will be available for AP road calipers in late February -- currently one of the leading NASCAR compounds. Stay tuned...

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      01-27-2010, 08:36 PM   #201
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Chris,
What is the replacement cost of the Mintex Xtreme Motorsport Pads?
coefficient of friction?
Rotor friendly?
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      01-27-2010, 08:46 PM   #202
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Chris,
What is the replacement cost of the Mintex Xtreme Motorsport Pads?
coefficient of friction?
Rotor friendly?
List price is $334.75 front and $244.75 rear, but check with forum vendors as they can work you up a better deal.

Mintex does not release coefficient numbers, but we know it is in the .50-.55 range. More importantly, it is highly linear so the feel is great. I can't stress enough how pedal feel is important to threshold braking. Even if another pad has a higher peak coefficient, if it is not constant, it will be difficult to use at its limit.

They have been rotor friendly in our experience. They are based on a high-level OE compound that has been modified, but the mods have done nothing to accelerate wear -- only increase torque and maximum operating temperature (MOT).
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      01-27-2010, 08:49 PM   #203
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Thanks - This thread has a ton of great information in it! I am looking forward to getting an AP Racing BBK!
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      01-28-2010, 01:58 AM   #204
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FWIW, I was very happy with the Mintex pads on my E36 M. Looking forward to getting something like this when I can next afford to p(l)ay.
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      01-29-2010, 06:21 PM   #205
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AP kit installed.
Ended up cutting and keeping both front and rear factory brake shields.
The kit fit very nicely and looks great. I just finished bedding them in, had to do about 35 runs, they are pretty specific about what to do. So far they feel very good with nice pedal feel. I will do a full review after I spend some more time with them, but initially they feel great.
Using Motul RBF 600.

Big thanks to RENN-SPEC for all their help, service, and great price. I think poor Jason and Simon must have answered about 100 Qs before I decided to go with AP.

These iPhone pics are better then my last ones, lol.
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      01-29-2010, 06:25 PM   #206
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Congrats on the new APs, looking forward to your review.
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      01-29-2010, 06:27 PM   #207
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Congrats on the new APs, looking forward to your review.
Should be hitting Road Atlanta again in early March, so it will be a perfect time to test them.
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      01-30-2010, 09:26 AM   #208
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Did you install them yourself Stalker or have them installed at a shop? Curious how long it took if you did it yourself.
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      01-30-2010, 10:53 AM   #209
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Did you install them yourself Stalker or have them installed at a shop? Curious how long it took if you did it yourself.
I had a shop install them, unfortunately I BMW mechanically challenged, lol.
Took the shop around 4 hours to install the BBK and bleed the brakes.
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      01-30-2010, 11:18 AM   #210
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I had a shop install them, unfortunately I BMW mechanically challenged, lol.
Took the shop around 4 hours to install the BBK and bleed the brakes.
Thanks for the info - I will let a shop do it too I think, not sure I want to deal with the hassle of the SS lines etc and cutting the shields.
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      01-30-2010, 11:49 AM   #211
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Stalker,

I'm curious why you didn't completely remove the factory brake shields, when our cars have such poor factory cooling passages to help reduce heat build up during track sessions? (which was a pre-requisite for you in the purchase of this BBK)

By retaining the factory brake dust shields, it actually hinders the rotors ability to shed heat (on the inside rotor surface) since they act as a barrier that restricts airflow to the swept area of the rotor surface.

Not saying the AP Racing BBK can't overcome this liability, but retaining these shields certainly doesn't do it any favors (too help aid the cooling process)...

Just trying to understand the rationalization of keeping them vs. removing them entirely?

Also,

Do you have any plans to run, brake ducts, hoses, and backing plates to your new front BBK in the near future? (i.e. the GT4 setup)
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      01-30-2010, 12:11 PM   #212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lemans_Blue_M View Post
Stalker,

I'm curious why you didn't completely remove the factory brake shields, when our cars have such poor factory cooling passages to help reduce heat build up during track sessions? (which was a pre-requisite for you in the purchase of this BBK)

By retaining the factory brake dust shields, it actually hinders the rotors ability to shed heat (on the inside rotor surface) since they act as a barrier that restricts airflow to the swept area of the rotor surface.

Not saying the AP Racing BBK can't overcome this liability, but retaining these shields certainly doesn't do it any favors (too help aid the cooling process)...

Just trying to understand the rationalization of keeping them vs. removing them entirely?

Also,

Do you have any plans to run, brake ducts, hoses, and backing plates to your new front BBK in the near future? (i.e. the GT4 setup)
+1 Taking the fronts off completely would be best, the rears are a tad more difficult because you want to protect the drum brake and you would need to completely destroy the shields to get them off without removing the whole hub. I suspect the reason was that the installer found it to be easier just to cut a slot for the caliper.
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      01-30-2010, 12:15 PM   #213
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+1 Taking the fronts off completely would be best, the rears are a tad more difficult because you want to protect the drum brake and you would need to completely destroy the shields to get them off without removing the whole hub. I suspect the reason was that the installer found it to be easier just to cut a slot for the caliper.
Probably. If I feel it's hurting the performance, I have it removed later. I also live in a climate with snow, slush, and salt. The shields aren't bad too keep if you live in that sort of climate??

As for brake ducts, let's test this set up first. I'm sure the way the car is now is beyond my capabilities.
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      01-30-2010, 12:31 PM   #214
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Too bad wheel fans (fins) aren't available for us. Ideal for a track day enthusiast who is looking for some extra cooling (additional downforce wouldnt hurt either) but doesnt want the hassle of air ducts and a backing plate (which doesnt seem to be available yet).

Looking forward to your track day review.
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      01-30-2010, 02:26 PM   #215
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Too bad wheel fans (fins) aren't available for us. Ideal for a track day enthusiast who is looking for some extra cooling (additional downforce wouldnt hurt either) but doesnt want the hassle of air ducts and a backing plate (which doesnt seem to be available yet).

Looking forward to your track day review.
Do you have track wheels?
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      01-30-2010, 02:43 PM   #216
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Do you have track wheels?
Last year I just ran the OEM 18's. I have since picked up a second set of OEM 18's and am running the 4 - 18x8.5 for winters and plan on using the 4 - 18x9.5 for the track. I am debating selling a set of the 18's and maybe buying a different set for the track that are lighter.

You settle on anything yet?
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      01-30-2010, 02:54 PM   #217
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Last year I just ran the OEM 18's. I have since picked up a second set of OEM 18's and am running the 4 - 18x8.5 for winters and plan on using the 4 - 18x9.5 for the track. I am debating selling a set of the 18's and maybe buying a different set for the track that are lighter.

You settle on anything yet?
Not yet.
Might go with Advans though.
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      01-30-2010, 02:58 PM   #218
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Not yet.
Might go with Advans though.
I personally think they would be the perfect choice, thought about the same thing, light and strong! I know Lemans has good things to say about them. There are some cheaper options, but damn those are nice!

I assume 18's? I havent looked into pricing on 18's yet, just 19's
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      01-30-2010, 03:05 PM   #219
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Quote:
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Not yet.
Might go with Advans though.
That would be a very smart move.

I suspect 18x9.5 +25 front & rear (square setup + 10mm spacers) ?

Or possibly a 18x9.5 +25 front and 18x10 +20 rear?
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      01-30-2010, 03:07 PM   #220
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I personally think they would be the perfect choice, thought about the same thing, light and strong! I know Lemans has good things to say about them. There are some cheaper options, but damn those are nice!

I assume 18's? I havent looked into pricing on 18's yet, just 19's
Well, they are cheaper then Volks, but still a very good quality light rim.
I got some prices from EAS.
They make I think the RS in 18x9.5 et 22 or et 25. Should clear the BBK.
I might just use my stock 19s for now.
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