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      03-10-2011, 04:13 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by chaswyck View Post
I appreciate all the info and research that some of you have done, but why not just switch over to regular tires and carry a couple of cans of of that aerosol flat repair stuff rather than a jack and a spare?
That's exactly what comes with the car, not runflats. But, the fix-a-flat goop does not work with many punctures, and it usually screws up the TPM.
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      03-10-2011, 05:23 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by elh0102 View Post
That's exactly what comes with the car, not runflats. But, the fix-a-flat goop does not work with many punctures, and it usually screws up the TPM.
elp jc said in another thread that he's using a Stop & Go temporary plug kit (http://www.stopngo.com/automotive.asp#tireplugger). I looked on their site and ordered one. It looks good and doesn't use glue.

As stated, M3's do not come with run flat tires. There's a sticky thread at the top of this forum started by Ben@TireRack that beats that one to death. http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=463157. Using the goop is something to avoid if at all possible.
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      03-10-2011, 05:47 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by calintexas View Post
elp jc said in another thread that he's using a Stop & Go temporary plug kit (http://www.stopngo.com/automotive.asp#tireplugger). I looked on their site and ordered one. It looks good and doesn't use glue.

As stated, M3's do not come with run flat tires. There's a sticky thread at the top of this forum started by Ben@TireRack that beats that one to death. http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=463157. Using the goop is something to avoid if at all possible.
The one below, the Patchboy kit, is the best I've ever used, works great.

http://patchboy.com/mm5/merchant.mvc...tegory_Code=ki
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      03-10-2011, 06:05 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by elh0102 View Post
The one below, the Patchboy kit, is the best I've ever used, works great.

http://patchboy.com/mm5/merchant.mvc...tegory_Code=ki
Thanks, that looks great. Both kits beat the crap out of the rope style kit that I bought at Pep Boys a while back. The Stop & Go site has really good how to videos for that product.

The Patchboy kit is a temporary fix, correct? It looks like it could be used long term in many situations.
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      03-10-2011, 06:15 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chaswyck View Post
I appreciate all the info and research that some of you have done, but why not just switch over to regular tires and carry a couple of cans of of that aerosol flat repair stuff rather than a jack and a spare?
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Originally Posted by chaswyck View Post
Does anyone know if you can replace the front tires with regular (non RFT) tires and leave the RFT's on the back? I hate these RFT's and have to figure out how to get rid of them without breaking the bank.
You'll get better answers over on the E90Post wheel and tire forum. You probably don't want to mix run flats and regular tires as I expect they will have very different response characteristics due to the very stiff sidewalls of the run flats.
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      03-10-2011, 06:30 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by calintexas View Post
Thanks, that looks great. Both kits beat the crap out of the rope style kit that I bought at Pep Boys a while back. The Stop & Go site has really good how to videos for that product.

The Patchboy kit is a temporary fix, correct? It looks like it could be used long term in many situations.
If you have a simple, small hole in the tread area, I would, and have considered it a permanent fix. It's better than the typical plug that most tire shops will use. Obviously, it's not as good as the plug/patch applied from the inside. It all depends on the specific damage, and your comfort level with the repair.
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      03-10-2011, 06:54 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by chaswyck View Post
Does anyone know if you can replace the front tires with regular (non RFT) tires and leave the RFT's on the back? I hate these RFT's and have to figure out how to get rid of them without breaking the bank.
Sure, just be aware your handling characteristics will change. Or, just get an M3 when your tires wear out!
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      03-11-2011, 02:05 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by calintexas View Post
You'll get better answers over on the E90Post wheel and tire forum. You probably don't want to mix run flats and regular tires as I expect they will have very different response characteristics due to the very stiff sidewalls of the run flats.
I posted a question over there, but the folks there seem to be obsessed with wheels rather than tires. It seems like the people who post here are more technically knowledgeable. For what it's worth, here is the question I posted there. It's a bit different from my previous questions because I think I'm leaning towards staying with the run flats.
I have a 2008 335i that, because of bad wheel alignment (apparently) needs two front tires. The rear RFT's are fine because both were replaced under the warranty because of flats. Do I have to worry about any performance problems if I replace just the two fronts with new RFT's? I'm assuming not because each of the rear tires was replaced independently of the others so the treadwear isn;t even all around anyway.
I also would like to get the Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 ZP's from Tire Rack because I have had much better experience with Michelin's over the years than with Bridgestone. The car has the OEM Bridgestones on the rear. Again, any performance issues I should be worried about with the Michelins on the front and the Bridgestones on the rear? When the rears need replacing I'll replace them with the Michelin Pilot Sports. These tires are expensive enough without replacing two perfectly good tires on the rear right now! Any advice would be appreciated.
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      03-11-2011, 08:52 AM   #31
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if you don't have a spare then why have the jack?? if you get a flat aren't you screwed either way. i can't see carrying a jack unless you have a spare to go with it. not being a smart ass i am really asking. i assume most just get towed right??

unless your leaving the car there on the jack and bringing the wheel somewhere but i would rather flatbed my car then leave it on the side of the road on a jack that some punk could stop and let loose or something to be a dick
^^^word
although i'm going to be riding on profile 30's for the first time this this summer and my car's a daily driver so i'm a bit freaked out...
but i'm sure i'll get over it
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      03-11-2011, 09:37 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by chaswyck View Post
I posted a question over there, but the folks there seem to be obsessed with wheels rather than tires. It seems like the people who post here are more technically knowledgeable. For what it's worth, here is the question I posted there. It's a bit different from my previous questions because I think I'm leaning towards staying with the run flats.
I have a 2008 335i that, because of bad wheel alignment (apparently) needs two front tires. The rear RFT's are fine because both were replaced under the warranty because of flats. Do I have to worry about any performance problems if I replace just the two fronts with new RFT's? I'm assuming not because each of the rear tires was replaced independently of the others so the treadwear isn;t even all around anyway.
I also would like to get the Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 ZP's from Tire Rack because I have had much better experience with Michelin's over the years than with Bridgestone. The car has the OEM Bridgestones on the rear. Again, any performance issues I should be worried about with the Michelins on the front and the Bridgestones on the rear? When the rears need replacing I'll replace them with the Michelin Pilot Sports. These tires are expensive enough without replacing two perfectly good tires on the rear right now! Any advice would be appreciated.
Since M3s don't use RFTs, many here don't have direct experience with them, and in general, despise them. However, any mix of different tires F&R is going to affect handling characteristics. You just have to take it easy at first to learn how the car reacts at the limits.
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      03-11-2011, 11:46 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chaswyck View Post
I posted a question over there, but the folks there seem to be obsessed with wheels rather than tires. It seems like the people who post here are more technically knowledgeable. For what it's worth, here is the question I posted there. It's a bit different from my previous questions because I think I'm leaning towards staying with the run flats.
I have a 2008 335i that, because of bad wheel alignment (apparently) needs two front tires. The rear RFT's are fine because both were replaced under the warranty because of flats. Do I have to worry about any performance problems if I replace just the two fronts with new RFT's? I'm assuming not because each of the rear tires was replaced independently of the others so the treadwear isn;t even all around anyway.
I also would like to get the Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 ZP's from Tire Rack because I have had much better experience with Michelin's over the years than with Bridgestone. The car has the OEM Bridgestones on the rear. Again, any performance issues I should be worried about with the Michelins on the front and the Bridgestones on the rear? When the rears need replacing I'll replace them with the Michelin Pilot Sports. These tires are expensive enough without replacing two perfectly good tires on the rear right now! Any advice would be appreciated.
As Greg says, you really would need to figure out what the car is going to do if you have to make a big avoidance maneuver if you are going to mix tire types. Your life could depend on it. You might try PM'ing Ben@TireRack. He may have some experience with mixing RFT's and regular tires. I'm pretty sure that he'll tell you not to do it. There should be good tires available for your car that don't cost an arm and a leg maybe allowing you to go ahead and buy 4 tires. Ben can help you there too. Good luck. As Greg said, a new M3 would solve your RFT issue.
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      03-11-2011, 12:01 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calintexas View Post
There should be good tires available for your car that don't cost an arm and a leg maybe allowing you to go ahead and buy 4 tires. Ben can help you there too. Good luck. As Greg said, a new M3 would solve your RFT issue.
Chaswyck, check out the Vredestein Ultrac Sessantas (search this forum for a couple threads). I think they're equal to PS2s for about 2/3 the price.
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      03-15-2011, 04:56 PM   #35
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Hey gang, somebody resurrected my thread from the dead . But I'm glad since I have more input to provide.

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You say it weighs a ton. I haven’t weighed it, but I don’t believe can be much over 10 pounds.
Guess you missed my point, which was it weighs a ton to be unsecured in the trunk. It doesn't fit inside the compartment, unfortunately. After seeing how flimsy the other jack is, decided to keep it. I shove it all the way back into the trunk, against the back seat, so in the event of a panic stop, it doesn't break anything.

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Originally Posted by calintexas View Post
elp jc said in another thread that he's using a Stop & Go temporary plug kit.
You and I had a conversation about this, and want to share my input with the board. My take is the Stop'n Go is the superior kit since glue hardens over time, plus it makes a mess. The great news is I tried this 10-yr-old kit the other day, and results were fantastic after learning how to use it properly (along with its limitations), which I'll explain in detail below.
Learn how it works BEFORE you need it folks. And that works for ANY kit. Anyway, the most crucial step is to ram the hole with the file SEVERAL times, until it's relatively easy to pull file in and out. This will prevent the plug from being torn by sharp wires while pulling tool out of the hole. Then just follow the instructions EXCEPT the pulling on the plug part (DON'T DO IT; there's no need to) and you'd be done. As what to expect from it? It did way better than I thought. The first plug failed while pulling the excess to cut it. Didn't realize I needed to ram the hole better, so installed a second one, and cut it without pulling it, but I know it was also damaged by the cords when pulling the tool out, since half the stem is exposed. Anyway, drove about 250 miles with the first plug, most at the ton and above, and 30 miles of twisties. Then got the TPMS light. Aired the tire (manual pump) and traveled another 100 miles. Then TPMS light again, aired tire again, and arrived at my destination 400 miles later. Inspected plug and it looked mostly fine, but my guess is the head was partially into the hole due to centrifugal forces, allowing air to escape. Replaced plug and it failed 80 miles into the return trip, at mostly 90. Until here 2 things became obvious to me: the cords were damaging the plug, so I needed to ram the hole better, and temperatures were having an effect on maximum sustained speeds. It was 84F by now. At this point I made the final repair, ramming the hole well, then installing the 3rd and final plug. It was getting pretty hot, and I'd not have the luxury of a roof if anything happened in the next 200 miles, so I played it safe, and didn't exceed 80 in a sustained basis. Got car up to 94 by accident once, but pretty much stayed near 80. Zero problems the next 320 miles, and after 3 days here, zero pressure loss. Bottom line is assuming the plug is installed as described above, the plug maximum speed is dependent mostly on ambient and asphalt temperature, as the higher the temperature, the softer the silicon gets, and that eventually forces part of the head into the hole, just like it squeezed into the tool. The great news is even at triple digit speeds, and after airing it THREE times, it never blew out. I obviously tried this alone for the benefit of this forum . With TPMS, you're stopped before the tire fully deflates, even if plug was to blow out. But in my case, it was pretty gradual. Every time I stopped, pressure was near 30 psi, which is where TPMS triggers. This is one feature worth its weight in gold IMO. I'll gladly replace the sensors every 7 years for this piece of mind . To finish, it got up to 87F, and I'm sure the plug could still go many hundreds of miles more without exceeding 80 in hot conditions. With my jack, didn't have to remove the tire, and with a towel, gloves, and a hand pump, I was as clean as if nothing had happened. If I had a new flat on the left side and had to fix it on the highway, I'd definitely remove the wheel/tire and safely perform the repair away from traffic. THAT's why you want to carry a jack folks .

RUNFLATS and compact SPARES. I used to think Runflat advantages outweigh their drawbacks up to this trip, but not anymore folks. And here's why: Runflats are typically twice or more more expensive than regular tires, they require special equipment to mount/dismount you're not likely to find in small cities and towns (where I mostly travel), and it clearly says on the sidewall they're NOT to be repaired. Since only large shops have the equipment to dismount them, good luck finding one that will plug one. And finally, they're supposed to be used only for 50 miles, but based on TWO accounts from Ferrari F430 owners, they collapse after 100 miles... and that car is a lot lighter than our M3s. So if I had had runflats on this trip, supposedly the 'best of both worlds', I'd have ended up stranded in the middle of nowhere, and would have needed a 200-mile tow. Oh, and who the hell stocks 265/35/19 runflats? NOBODY folks. Enough said. Will NEVER consider them again.

And what about compact SPARES? They're good as a last resort if your car is such equipped, but they're dangerous, smaller than your other tires, have no TPMS, and you shouldn't really go above 60 max due to blowout risk, especially in hot temperatures. Therefore, the best solution for a flat IMO is a 'mushroom' kit, like Stop'n Go or Patchboy, but after checking Patchboy out, it apparently requires making a MUCH LARGER hole, plus the risk if glue dried out, you'd be SOL. At least 320 miles in your regular tire, with zero air pressure loss, with the piece of mind of TPMS, and your regular, strong tire, the Stop'n Go kit beats the hell out of all other alternatives IMO. Hope this helped folks. And no, I have nothing to do with them; just a satisfied customer sharing his experience.

Oh, and forgot to say the number one 'defensive' line against flats: avoid construction zones and/or areas with a lot of debris, or not paved. Better travel a mile or two down the road and make a U turn in a safe (for your car) place. And if you must drive thru a construction zone, GO SLOWLY, as the typical flat scenario is the front tire kicking up a screw into the rear tire, which is exactly what happened to mine. Take care gang.

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      03-15-2011, 06:37 PM   #36
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Hey gang, somebody resurrected my thread from the dead . But I'm glad since I have more input to provide.


Guess you missed my point, which was it weighs a ton to be unsecured in the trunk. It doesn't fit inside the compartment, unfortunately. After seeing how flimsy the other jack is, decided to keep it. I shove it all the way back into the trunk, against the back seat, so in the event of a panic stop, it doesn't break anything.
I would not want it unrestrained in the trunk. I made a compact spare for my car, using a BMW compact wheel for the X6, and bought a Temporary tire from TireRack for it. I use a nylon ratchet strap to hold the tire secure, and the jack fits either under the strap, or behind the tire, with the tire pulled back against it. Works very well. Another option is to put the jack behind the passenger seat in the right rear floor (nobody rides in my back seat).
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      03-15-2011, 09:39 PM   #37
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The E46 3-series jack pictured in post #4 weighs only 2.4 lb. and fits nicely under the trunk floor. It may not be as stable as some other designs, but considering BMW thought it adequate and I've never has to use it, I think it's the preferable option for carry-along jacks (except for the track).
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      03-16-2011, 04:07 PM   #38
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The E46 3-series jack pictured in post #4 weighs only 2.4 lb. and fits nicely under the trunk floor. It may not be as stable as some other designs, but considering BMW thought it adequate and I've never has to use it, I think it's the preferable option for carry-along jacks (except for the track).
I was going to just buy one of those... until I read the suggestion below . But thanks anyway buddy.

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I would not want it unrestrained in the trunk. Another option is to put the jack behind the passenger seat in the right rear floor (nobody rides in my back seat).
That worked perfectly ; thanks man. Don't know why I didn't try it before, because I thought about it; guess it looked too big . Plus the weight is in the middle of the car, still have the full trunk's space, and nobody rides on the back seat either. Since I also don't like the jack kit unrestrained in the trunk, I was only carrying it in trips; now I'll carry it all the time . I shoved it under the seat as far as it went, and now it doesn't move one bit sideways (for cornering), or forward (panic stop). I honestly feel much safer with this jack than the E46 one, and I already have it (plus it comes with the torque wrench, wheel chock, gloves, etc). The 10 extra pounds (or whatever it is) is minimal, and under the passenger seat it helps offset my 160# or so (we need to look at the bright side, right? ).
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      03-16-2011, 07:18 PM   #39
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Another option is to put the jack behind the passenger seat in the right rear floor (nobody rides in my back seat).
That becomes an unrestrained heavy object if you should roll your car.
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      03-16-2011, 07:23 PM   #40
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That becomes an unrestrained heavy object if you should roll your car.
There is a limit to the things over which I will worry. But yes, if you roll the car, I suppose a jack under the seat might add to your problems.
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      03-16-2011, 08:34 PM   #41
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Can anyone elaborate on the risk of a loose (unsecured) compact spare in the trunk? In a major crash, is the concern that it will injure the passengers/driver by traveling into the passenger compartment? If so, via the rear deck area?

Just wanted to confirm the risk. I do plan on strapping a spare in the trunk when/if I carry one (making a kit via the X6 spare wheel). Thanks.
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      03-16-2011, 08:36 PM   #42
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There is a limit to the things over which I will worry.
Indeed .

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That becomes an unrestrained heavy object if you should roll your car.
The engine would also become an 'unrestrained heavy object' if you hit a wall at 100 mph . Come on man . But if you want to get technical, with the jack shoved under the front seat, the jack would only drop onto the roof (assuming car ends up upside down) with no forward acceleration, meaning it wouldn't hit a front occupant. Oh, and you could use it to break a window, if not already broken . And as a weapon against possible looters . See? You need to look at the bright side .
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      03-16-2011, 10:05 PM   #43
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Can anyone elaborate on the risk of a loose (unsecured) compact spare in the trunk? In a major crash, is the concern that it will injure the passengers/driver by traveling into the passenger compartment? If so, via the rear deck area?

Just wanted to confirm the risk. I do plan on strapping a spare in the trunk when/if I carry one (making a kit via the X6 spare wheel). Thanks.
Speaking only for myself, my concern regarding a loose tire or jack in the trunk is more one of nuisance than safety. Under most any spirited driving scenario, those things are going to make major noise and perhaps do some minor damage to fender panels or other things contacted. I suppose in a crash they could create enough force to break the rear seat latches and enter the passenger compartment, so not a good thing.
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      03-28-2011, 05:04 PM   #44
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Anyone would recommend a generic jack set for the M3????
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