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      05-12-2009, 05:18 PM   #1
R2M3
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Tips on removing stuck wheel

Folks I was attempting to install spacers this afternoon. Front wheel, no problem, went to remove the right rear and the darn thing wouldn't budge at all. Tried side to side with force, even stomped it with the foot but I was afraid to much force and the car would come crashing down off the jack. Any ideas how to free a seized wheel, perhaps some liquid wrench? BTW, I'm going for the "bulldog stance" with 15mm all around.

Thanks in advance,

Gerry
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      05-12-2009, 05:20 PM   #2
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i usually kick my tires hard to get it off if its stuck... its worked for me so far. not sure how bad yours is though.
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      05-12-2009, 05:33 PM   #3
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Rubber mallet?
that or a lot of padding and a sledge hammer. haha

I know my brother in law loosened all the bolts, lowered the car and drove the car back and forth a few meters and it worked for him.
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      05-12-2009, 05:52 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackolo View Post
Rubber mallet?
that or a lot of padding and a sledge hammer. haha

I know my brother in law loosened all the bolts, lowered the car and drove the car back and forth a few meters and it worked for him.
Yup, use the weight of the car to your advantage. Don't know what kind of jack you are using, but if it is a screw/scissor type, you can lower it under control slowly. As soon as some of the cars weight is applied, it should pop right off. I've done this. If you are using a hydraulic jack that doesn't have as much control, put the wheel bolts back in just finger tight then lower it until it breaks loose.
I am not a professional mechanic. I am not responsible for any deaths resulting from this advise.
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      05-12-2009, 05:55 PM   #5
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Sometimes giving it a good nudge will do the trick... Kicking it could easily work, but please don't hurt yourself while doing it lol
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      05-12-2009, 06:05 PM   #6
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Yeah, I was surprised at the amount of corrosion on the neck of all 4 hubs, on my car with only 2K miles, when I installed spacers last night. All 4 of mine came off easy, but after more miles of rust build-up I could see them being very stubborn in removal. Make sure you use anti-seize on the neck and hub when installing the spacers.
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      05-12-2009, 06:26 PM   #7
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a BFH always works...










BIG F-ING HAMMER!!
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      05-12-2009, 06:58 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MysticBlue View Post
Yup, use the weight of the car to your advantage. Don't know what kind of jack you are using, but if it is a screw/scissor type, you can lower it under control slowly. As soon as some of the cars weight is applied, it should pop right off. I've done this. If you are using a hydraulic jack that doesn't have as much control, put the wheel bolts back in just finger tight then lower it until it breaks loose.
I am not a professional mechanic. I am not responsible for any deaths resulting from this advise.

Thanks Guys! Think I will give this method a go tomorrow.
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      05-12-2009, 06:59 PM   #9
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KICK THE WHEEL OR USE A RUBBER MALLET. This happened to me with my E46 M3 and the hubs were rusted bad. It was a pain in the ass to get them off only the rears were the problem. Oh and use antiseize like others have stated. Here is a link of my rusty hubs on my E46 M3 http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showt...+rusted&page=3
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      05-13-2009, 01:01 AM   #10
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you could hire this guy to help you
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      05-13-2009, 02:39 AM   #11
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Use your wrench to knock the wheel (tire) from the inner side, should come off easily.
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      05-13-2009, 02:40 AM   #12
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Bang of a hammer.
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      05-19-2009, 12:04 PM   #13
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make sure All 5 wheel bolts are removed?

Then BFH from the inside of the tire...
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      05-19-2009, 12:41 PM   #14
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I like to leave a few bolts on the wheel but loosened up, and then hit it with a BFH from the inside. That way when the wheel does come free, it doesn't crash to the ground!
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      05-22-2009, 02:56 PM   #15
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Another approach

Once the wheel is off a little brake grease where the wheel sits on the hub will go a long way to making removal easier next time.
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      05-22-2009, 03:16 PM   #16
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A judicious application of brute force usually does it If hitting with any sort of hammer, be REALLY careful not to hit your wheels. Hitting the tire = fewer dents in wheels. Jackstands would be a good idea if you have them...
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      05-22-2009, 07:44 PM   #17
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Man, do I feel your pain! I just had the same experience this afternoon. I was thinking of doing the CCA school at Thunderbolt with my E90 in a couple of weeks, so I wanted to get a close look at the brakes. I also wanted to wash the car, and the stock 18's were starting to look a little scuzzy on the insides - so I figured I'd kill two birds with one stone - clean the inside of the wheels and check the pads.

What an ordeal! The car was a March '08 delivery and has 16k miles on it. I was in for service a month or so ago and I asked the dealer to check the brakes. Apparently they didn't pull the wheels, because I had to fight three of them. The last one was a real bear - it took me 20 minutes of hitting it with a rubber mallet, yanking on it, lowering the car partially, etc. Finally I got enough of a start to work it loose.

Three of the wheels now have a coating of anti-sieze on the hub. (The first one was the easiest so it didn't get the treatment.) I think I'm gong to have a converation with my service advisor next week. (I can look at the pads through the wheels, too! - I was expecting the dealer to do a more thorough inspection. Maybe I'm asking too much.)
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      05-23-2009, 11:16 AM   #18
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This works for me, every time:

Loosen lugs a little, raise the tire off the ground. Loosen the lugs about half way.

Lie on your back, with your feet in reach of the tire. Strike the TIRE (not wheel) with the sole of your left foot, then your right, and just keep kicking the left/right side of the tire, until it pops free. You don't even have to use that much force when kicking it.

Then use anti-seize. It is your friend.
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